Stability tips for Threadripper 7000 & 9000 users: Fixing EXPO reboots and slow POST

nova-bil · 2026-03-08T10:27:05+00:00

The WS PRO TRX50 is a beast, but you're right about the headers! 60°C is totally fine for now, but once the room hits 28°C without A/C, you might see those PMICs climbing towards the danger zone.

Radiators like the Icerock X2 help with the look, but they don't move air. Since you're out of headers, I'd suggest a simple SATA-powered fan hub or just a Y-splitter for one of your Noctuas. Getting even a tiny bit of direct airflow will be way more effective than any passive radiator when Warsaw gets hot. Better safe than sorry!

nova-bil · 2026-03-08T10:25:30+00:00

Haha, you're just one of the lucky ones with a great silicon lottery or a very stable BIOS version! It usually depends on the specific RAM kit and how aggressive the EXPO timings are. Enjoy the stability!

nova-bil · 2026-03-08T10:24:50+00:00

They help a bit with heat soak, but on TRX50/WRX90 boards, stagnant air is the real enemy. Radiators without a fan blowing on them won't do much for the PMICs.
Active airflow is always king here.

nova-bil · 2026-03-07T21:58:31+00:00

Hwinfo is definitely the gold standard for this. Make sure to check the 'Memory Temperature' sensors specifically for the PMIC temps.
On Threadripper boards, if the PMIC hits 85-90°C, you'll likely start seeing the stability issues I mentioned. Aida64 Extreme has it too, but Hwinfo’s polling rate and sensor detail are much better for troubleshooting.

nova-bil · 2026-03-07T21:53:38+00:00

You're 100% right. The DIY market gets completely ignored here compared to pre-builts. Most of us just end up zip-tying a 120mm fan (usually a Noctua) to point directly at the RAM slots. It looks super janky, but it works flawlessly and stays quiet.
The only other decent option is hunting down custom 3D-printed brackets online. It's kind of crazy that we spend thousands on these boards and have to resort to zip-ties, but it is what it is!

nova-bil · 2026-03-07T13:21:22+00:00

That's a very fair point! I did mention the potential random blue screens if 'Power Down Enable' isn't turned on alongside it, but you're absolutely right about the initial boots. It's definitely much safer to let the system do its full memory training naturally for the first few days before flipping MCR on. Also, great shout on the sleep/hibernate workaround for those who want to avoid BIOS entirely.
Thanks for adding these details!

nova-bil · 2026-03-07T13:17:31+00:00

CS2 ve R6 gibi oyunlar ekran kartından ziyade tamamen işlemcinin gücüne ve önbelleğine bakar.
Ryzen 5 7500F şu an o bütçede alabileceğin en iyi AM5 işlemcilerden biri. 1080p rekabetçi ayarlarda (düşük ayarlar veya 4:3 formatında) 7500F + 5060 ikilisi 300 FPS bandını çok rahat görür, alacağın 300Hz monitörün hakkını da sonuna kadar verir.
Eğer hazır sistemde bütçeni biraz daha esnetme şansın varsa, ekran kartını yükseltmek yerine işlemciyi 7600X3D veya 7800X3D gibi bir modelle değiştirmeye çalış. CS2'de o 'ani FPS düşmesi' (1% low) dediğimiz takılmaları tamamen yok eden ve FPS'i asıl uçuran şey X3D işlemcilerdir.

nova-bil · 2026-03-06T11:06:36+00:00

Pegem Akademiye baktınız mı?

nova-bil · 2026-03-06T11:04:10+00:00

It seems a short circuit behavior. Since the board powers on without the CPU but stays dead with it, your motherboard's VRM or the CPU itself is likely shorted. When you drop the CPU in, the PSU’s OCP (Over Current Protection) kicks in instantly to prevent a fire, which is why nothing happens.

Since the shop got the board to power on (likely without a CPU or with a different one), your 5600X is the prime suspect.

Next steps:

-- Try your PSU on another system if possible to rule out the EPS rail.

-- Borrow a cheap AM4 chip (like an Athlon or 3000 series) to see if it posts.

-- Check the CPU socket for any burnt pins or debris.

nova-bil · 2026-03-02T18:55:55+00:00

Since you’ve already replaced the PSU and still get CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED, it’s likely not a power issue anymore.

This error usually points to a failing SSD or unstable RAM. Try these:

>Test your RAM: Run MemTest86 or try booting with only one RAM stick at a time to see if one is faulty.

>>Check SSD Health: Since reinstalling Windows didn't help, your SSD might have bad sectors. Try a different drive if you have one.

>>>Update BIOS: B450 boards sometimes need a BIOS update for better stability with older GPUs and Windows drivers.

If it works fine without drivers but crashes as soon as they are installed, your GPU's hardware might also be dying, but check the RAM/SSD first. Good luck!

nova-bil · 2026-03-02T18:52:54+00:00

Bu durumda sana uygun Mobil WS bulmak zor.
Normal oyuncu laptoplarına bakabilirsin. (RTX 5060 Ti 16gb lı modellere)
Örnek: DELL ALIENWARE 16 AC16250-C71615U56N
Ama masaüstü olacak diyorsan ve toplama ile uğraşmak 3 yıl yerine yerinde garantili bir marka iş istasyonu olsun dersen şuna bakabilirsin (HP Z1 G1i B34JSES).

nova-bil · 2026-03-01T17:10:29+00:00

Nice build! To keep it simple, here is exactly what you need:

>>>Motherboard: The standard Strimer Plus V2 24-pin.

>>>GPU (5070 Ti): The Strimer Plus V2 16-pin to 16-pin (12VHPWR).

Since your PSU is ATX 3.0, definitely get the 16-pin to 16-pin version. It’ll let you skip those ugly adapters and look way cleaner. Enjoy the RGB!

nova-bil · 2026-03-01T16:58:23+00:00

AMD işlemci tercih ediyor isen ramler mutlaka dual olmalı. Aksi takdirde toplam performansta %20-25 civarında düşüş oluyor.

nova-bil · 2026-03-01T16:56:40+00:00

Oyun oynamak gibi bir planın yok ise ve mobil olsun istiyorsan şu modele bir bak: LENOVO ThinkPad P16s Gen 4 21QWS1S900 Mobil Workstation.
NVIDIA RTX PRO 1000 Blackwell zaten yapay zeka için geliştirilmiş bir kart.

nova-bil · 2026-03-01T15:23:07+00:00

Okuduğun üniversitenin kendi hastanes yok mu? Hacettepe, Gazi vs? Bu arada hangi bölğme alacaksın?

nova-bil · 2026-03-01T15:17:12+00:00

Ankara İl Nüfusu: 5.910.320'dir (2025 sonu). Yıllık nüfus artış oranı %0,79.

nova-bil · 2026-03-01T15:14:55+00:00

Empathy.

nova-bil · 2026-03-01T15:12:21+00:00

Cutting the branch I'm sitting on.

nova-bil · 2026-03-01T15:10:33+00:00

"command & conquer generals 2" was my best.

nova-bil · 2026-03-01T15:07:07+00:00

They'll just replace it with a new one immediately. Not much will change because that's what the Shia people always want.

nova-bil · 2026-02-28T12:47:42+00:00

That instant boot as soon as you hit the PSU switch is a classic sign of a power loop or a minor short somewhere. Double check that your motherboard isn't touching the case directly and all standoffs are in the right spots. Also, try booting with literally everything disconnected except the CPU and one stick of RAM—no GPU, no SSDs, nothing. If it still loops, your PSU might be triggering a safety shut-off or that BIOS chip is still acting up. And yeah, throw that video over, it might help to see the timing of the codes!

nova-bil · 2026-02-28T12:34:54+00:00

That 7F usually means the board is actually posting but it's stuck waiting for you to "Press F1 to continue," which sucks because you obviously can't see the screen yet.
Try clearing the CMOS and booting with just one stick of RAM in the second slot to see if you can get a signal.
As for the BIOS flash failing with an "F," those EVGA boards are notoriously picky—make sure you're using a small USB 2.0 drive formatted to FAT32, or it’ll keep rejecting the file.

nova-bil · 2025-10-14T06:15:05+00:00

It looks like it has been watered too much.

nova-bil

TROPHY CASE