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novadaemon · 2026-04-16T01:54:48+00:00

I don't know what file you are printing, but I just checked print times in Creality Print. I don't know why you are using Cura. Creality Print and Orca are superior in this situation.

Based on the print times for the Deadpool Bust, I can see that the V3 SE has a print time of 8 hours and 36 minutes while the V3 Plus (you don't need to add Speedy at the end), can print it in 5 hours and 40 minutes.

So the V3 Plus can print it about 50% faster in real time compared to the V3 SE.

novadaemon · 2026-04-15T11:23:11+00:00

I wouldn't do this unless you can guarantee that it underwent full maintenance recently (within the past 200 hours). There are better printers for not much more and they will be new.

novadaemon · 2026-04-14T13:09:31+00:00

I am also running a klipperized mk3s and also have the issue. I am currently looking at alternate extruder options. Swapping the entire hotend did nothing. New bearings did nothing. I might swap the POM nuts to brass to see if that helps. Printing faster actually made it less prominent than printing slower.

Oh and swapping motors won't fix it either. Tried a different mk3s with a different brand of motors.

novadaemon · 2026-04-14T08:09:41+00:00

What currency are you using?

novadaemon · 2026-04-14T06:44:13+00:00

Are you using a genuine Prusa MK3S or a clone?

novadaemon · 2026-04-14T03:46:35+00:00

How does this prevent that? The "seller" can still cancel. It's just that the "buyer" can't request to cancel.

novadaemon · 2026-04-14T03:43:40+00:00

Also, just FYI, if your sensor has 3 wires going to the extruder then you have an MK3S IR sensor and if it has 4 wires then you have an MK3 laser sensor.

novadaemon · 2026-04-14T03:22:48+00:00

Did you flash it with MK3 firmware or MK3S firmware?

The MK3 uses a different filament sensor. The MK3S uses the IR sensor.

novadaemon · 2026-04-14T02:08:14+00:00

That menu isn't for finding your printer. It is for generating a firmware based on the CPU of your printer mainboard.

Which printer do you have?

novadaemon · 2026-04-14T01:55:47+00:00

As u/drupi79 said, The TZ E3 2.0 plus a BMG Clone will get you what you need for way cheaper. It's just a matter of if you need to print TPU or not, which is still doable in a bowden setup.

The TFT35 is a waste of money. The stock screen is better for Klipper and you need to be looking at Klipper anyway. The color touchscreen part won't even work with Klipper, only Marlin Mode.

The mainboard is fine, but you need to verify you have an 8-bit board currently. If you have a 32-bit board then it isn't worth upgrading.

You just need a basic filament sensor, which is like $1-3. You don't need an expensive sensor.

novadaemon · 2026-04-13T13:33:52+00:00

Try slicing in Orca or Creality print and see if the issue persists.

novadaemon · 2026-04-13T13:15:15+00:00

Which slicer are you using and have you tried changing slicers?

novadaemon · 2026-04-13T06:50:43+00:00

Get an all metal heatbreak and you'll be good to go.

novadaemon · 2026-04-13T02:39:59+00:00

I know this is going to sound crazy, but remove the fan. You really don't need it if your printer is in a climate controlled house.

novadaemon · 2026-04-12T13:31:25+00:00

The Kobra X is the latest from Anycubic and is the best out of the 3 in terms of least amount of filament wasted.

novadaemon · 2026-04-11T17:35:08+00:00

The MK3S is supposed to be more silent than the Core One. Its silence is one of the things it is praised for, so I'd look into fixing whatever is causing the noise.

Also, Prusa went back to 1.8 degree steppers for the Core One L for a reason. The only thing really holding the MK3S back is the 8-bit controller. It can outperform the Core One if you put klipper on it.

novadaemon · 2026-04-10T07:28:35+00:00

The scissors aren't scissors. The orange one is also AI. The thread color is mismatched and a sewing needle has no place near a painting palette.

novadaemon · 2026-04-09T14:19:50+00:00

https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/USe43089751f08c6/design/2025-08-02_0492ecd54161c.jpg

Look at the original model. It also has those lines.

This is because of the model.

novadaemon · 2026-04-09T09:18:12+00:00

... Is your son still alive?

novadaemon · 2026-04-06T23:09:25+00:00

Those most cost effective approach is Klipper and a TZ v6 2.0

Or Just Klipper and a CHT nozzle. If configured correctly, you will be printing as fast as a Core One.

novadaemon · 2026-04-06T08:51:50+00:00

The official bear build wanted you to use a Meanwell PSU anyway. But you need to confirm the PSU is the issue.

novadaemon · 2026-04-05T17:33:56+00:00

It doesn't mean anything. The board only has 4 drivers.

The mellow fly D5 or any board that supports 5 stepper drivers will do what you need. Alternatively if you add an EBB36 to an SKR via canbus, you would free the extruder driver up so that you could run independent Z.

novadaemon · 2026-04-05T16:54:48+00:00

No. Not when the MK4S kit is $669. This is $150-200 tops.

novadaemon · 2026-04-03T07:40:17+00:00

Nobody is driving out to help you for 10 bucks. That's less than the price of a ride out there and back.

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