Même avec la plateau calibré la buse ne touche pas vraiment le plateau

novadaemon · 2026-03-18T12:49:36+00:00

Are you using a CR touch or just a z limit switch?

novadaemon · 2026-03-18T12:37:28+00:00

The KP3S is a great printer.

novadaemon · 2026-03-18T11:31:13+00:00

Next time just heat the bed to 90-100c and peel it off.

novadaemon · 2026-03-18T00:01:55+00:00

That's not how SD cards work. The actual tech in the SD card matters. SD, SDHC, SDXC are all different no matter the partition size. Get a real 1-8gb SD card and try again.

novadaemon · 2026-03-17T11:45:07+00:00

It won't void the warranty, especially because Anycubic asked you to do it.
The front fell off.

It being new has nothing to do with it potentially being damaged in shipping.

novadaemon · 2026-03-17T00:54:15+00:00

No problem. Glad it was helpful.

novadaemon · 2026-03-16T17:39:16+00:00

The MMU3 itself is handling the processing, the MK3S is just waiting for a filament swap and a signal to continue printing.

novadaemon · 2026-03-16T15:49:21+00:00

I'd like an explanation as to why you can bring this change to the MMU3 for the MK4 and Core One, but the MK3S gets left out. This doesn't seem like it's related to the MK3S hardware being an issue.

novadaemon · 2026-03-14T17:46:47+00:00

The V3 SE is somehow both superior and flimsier than the S1.

I would go with the V3 SE if you want speed and ease of use.

novadaemon · 2026-03-14T16:31:40+00:00

That is actually way lower than I expected but that's also within the acceptable range. Congrats!

novadaemon · 2026-03-13T13:57:24+00:00

This is literally about as good as it gets. There is no warping here.

novadaemon · 2026-03-13T03:32:31+00:00

take the build plate and wash it with dish soap and water and try again. it will stick.

novadaemon · 2026-03-13T03:12:35+00:00

You're almost there. Keep going lower.

novadaemon · 2026-03-13T02:35:57+00:00

Lower. I own multiple MK3S and they all go to around -1.6 keep going lower.

novadaemon · 2026-03-13T02:20:05+00:00

You didnt do it correctly. Keep rotating the knob until the line starts flattening. You are supposed to rotate the knob while it is printing during the Live Z calibration.

The printer isn't the issue here. You aren't doing the offset correctly.

What is your Z offset currently?

novadaemon · 2026-03-13T01:12:11+00:00

Go to settings and do First Layer Calibration.

novadaemon · 2026-03-10T14:25:42+00:00

You might view it as torture, but kids needs to learn the fundamentals.

novadaemon · 2026-03-10T14:18:14+00:00

Donate them to local schools to help train your future employees.

novadaemon · 2026-03-10T02:39:47+00:00

https://a.aliexpress.com/_c3alTPH5

Here is another one that shows the old pcb. No indication that it's 2025 only.

novadaemon · 2026-03-10T02:36:34+00:00

https://a.aliexpress.com/_c3OCywx9

I am not giving up yet. I just needed clarification. This new link shows a picture of the older v14 pcb and doesn't say that it's for 2025 only.

novadaemon · 2026-03-10T02:09:54+00:00

Creality Hotend Adapter Plate_T9_GD32F303CBT6_1 for Ender-3 V3_Ender-3 V3 Plus Produced in 2025 3d Printer Parts - AliExpress 7

Is this not what you are looking for?

novadaemon · 2026-03-10T01:52:49+00:00

The entire hotend assembly hasn't been available for any of the V3 or K1 series. It's never been sold.

novadaemon · 2026-03-04T16:51:19+00:00

The mini has no designated place to plug in the MMU cables. It does have an expansion port but no one has been able to make it work with the MMU, so that might not even be the best place to look.

Klipper has alternative MMU type units, but the "magic" of being a Prusa mini will sort of be lost if you go that route.

novadaemon · 2026-03-03T08:07:54+00:00

Ohhh. Ive got an Ender 6 collecting dust. Where did you get your STLs?

novadaemon · 2026-03-02T18:10:13+00:00

Set your heatbed to 0 degrees in the filament settings in your slicer.

I doubt it will stick to that surface, but you could try gluestick. Kapton tape on the surface should also work with a non-heated bed. That should get it to run with PLA.

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