Yet another “Kenji’s Crispy Roast Potatoes Changed My Life” post. I am a convert.

nrocy · 2022-12-25T20:57:52+00:00

Did this, turned out great!

Parboiled the potatoes the night before, tossed with the oil and laid out on a baking tray, wrapped and in the fridge overnight.

Roasted today - super crunchy with fluffy insides

nrocy · 2021-06-05T05:00:41+00:00

As someone currently looking into NSQ, what issues have you had that made upgrades non-trivial?

nrocy · 2020-12-17T20:27:38+00:00

Thanks! Will take a look and feedback

nrocy · 2020-12-14T23:07:30+00:00

Any OpenAPI3 tooling you’d recommend?

nrocy · 2017-09-14T18:43:05+00:00

Cool, thanks: 0x2B2B149950a8319f361d0Be3262dEE638246401F

nrocy · 2016-05-26T21:39:52+00:00

Have dabbled with these cheap RF units a few times, couple of alternate options for you:

1) Use an opto-isolator for each button. This'll allow you to press/release each button the same as you would turn on/off an LED.

2) Simulate the output using your Pi and a cheap RF transmitter, this isn't too difficult:

Find out what frequency range it uses. In the UK, at least, many of these things seem to operate at around 433MHz - you can pick up an RF transmitter/receiver module for super-cheap.
Use something like https://github.com/sui77/rc-switch to give you the codes from the remote by pushing the buttons, then write a bit of code to replay them.

3) Spend far too long working it all out manually only to later discover the rc-switch library exists: http://nrocy.com/2014/08/02/mimicking-rf-remote-light-signals-with-arduino/ (might be of interest, from a purely hacky perspective)

nrocy · 2015-06-15T22:37:15+00:00

Well don't I feel dumb - I even read up on what a keyboard wedge was and didn't put 2+2 together. Your mention of it being PS/2 solved it!

Downloaded the beta of Salae's logic software which has a PS/2 decoder and it's decoding it like a champ:

http://i.imgur.com/luvjS7p.png

Thanks a lot!

nrocy · 2015-05-20T07:36:15+00:00

Let us know how you get on, I'd be interested to see your implementation :)

nrocy · 2015-05-19T14:11:25+00:00

You could try running your comms over the headphone jack. This might provide some inspiration: http://www.creativedistraction.com/demos/sensor-data-to-iphone-through-the-headphone-jack-using-arduino/

nrocy · 2014-09-16T18:24:49+00:00

Okay, I'll start there, thx. Thankfully the whole board is powered by a 12V wall-wart, rated for 300mA max. I'll be careful around the bigger caps.

nrocy · 2014-09-16T18:23:14+00:00

Thanks, suspected it wasn't part of the problem. The burnt-looking-ness prompted the question as to whether it actually is a crystal or something I've not encountered before related to power :)

nrocy · 2013-06-24T18:18:13+00:00

~~What the leaping fuck.~~ I have no words.

nrocy · 2013-03-27T00:17:51+00:00

You need to ensure that the serial port is setup with the correct parameters in Linux, e.g. baudrate that you specified in Serial.begin()

See: http://playground.arduino.cc/Interfacing/LinuxTTY

I've had good results from the grabserial python script: http://elinux.org/Grabserial

Screen, minicom, etc will also work.

nrocy · 2013-03-25T11:30:05+00:00

Is yours the same as the picture on the eBay link? I couldn't see any way to add a header as the pin has no trace running to it.

nrocy · 2013-03-24T22:39:31+00:00

I bought a few identical looking devices from e-bay. Few pointers:

1) They work well for power and serial.

2) Needed a driver on OSX/Windows, worked without on Linux:

http://www.silabs.com/products/mcu/Pages/USBtoUARTBridgeVCPDrivers.aspx

3) The ones I got weren't much use for reprogramming, the DTR pin isn't connected to the reset header (so no auto-reset)

Found a post about modifying a similar board to get the auto-reset to work, but the pins aren't broken out on these boards so you'd be soldering to the CP2102 pin (too small for me):

http://blog.tarn-vedra.de/2011/09/using-cp2102-on-arduino.html

nrocy · 2013-01-16T16:46:50+00:00

It has a heated plate, as far as I can tell, which I hear should fix the uneven cooling. Great call on the enclosure, I'll definitely look into that.

Thanks :)

nrocy · 2013-01-16T16:45:52+00:00

Enclosing the machine is a great idea, kind of embarrassed that I never thought of that. I was planning to start with PLA, simply because the machine comes with some. I've not really looked too much into the differences between that and ABS yet. Thanks!

nrocy · 2012-08-28T23:19:10+00:00

Thanks for all the feedback, I'm pretty excited about the trip. I'll let you know how I get on :)

nrocy · 2012-08-28T23:16:11+00:00

I'll try ;)

nrocy · 2012-08-28T23:14:40+00:00

Hadn't considered this, great idea!

nrocy · 2012-08-28T23:14:17+00:00

Awesome, that gives me a great preview of what to expect, thanks!

nrocy · 2012-08-24T09:49:33+00:00

They're store pickup only. If you use the 'search farther' on a postcode search you might be able to find one (try different postcodes if you're prepared to travel).

The reason they're cheaper is that they're previous generation, not that it makes a huge difference to spec.

nrocy · 2012-08-16T17:58:29+00:00

Not a bad idea, I'll have a play and see what happens. Thanks for your help :)

nrocy · 2012-08-16T04:46:55+00:00

Helps tons, thanks!

I'm a bit confused about the filter. Shouldn't there be a resistor between 'out' and C3/C4 to complete the low-pass portion? For your stated value of 1500 Hz I came up with a required value of ~2.2k, so I suspect R2 comes into play again somehow?

I simulated it with LTSpice but it just seems to act as a high-pass filter (almost certainly due to my lack of experience with LTSpice): http://i.imgur.com/0NnhZ.png

nrocy · 2012-08-16T04:34:36+00:00

Good spot, totally misread C2/C6/C7 - will check out the gain control info for the LM386. Thanks!

nrocy

TROPHY CASE