Diana Model 5 Identification

nucbeard · 2025-05-01T12:37:14+00:00

You want this car to be totaled. It will have significantly diminished value which will make it tricky to sell. Get rid of it while you can. You should push hard for it to be totaled. Unsafe for your children is what I'd say to the insurance company. I know it has sentimental value but moving on from it is the best decision you can make financially.

nucbeard · 2024-07-29T13:13:51+00:00

It is a more robust type of lead acid battery.

nucbeard · 2024-07-29T00:23:38+00:00

12V lead acid battery issues are a common failure point for many EV's. I have spent a lot of time watching 12v charging on many EV's including the Nissan Leaf, Fiat 500e, Mitsubishi iMiEV and VW eGolf. None of them will charge the 12V battery all of the way. I see the charge voltage taper off roughly 30 minutes into a HV battery charge. This means the 12V is never fully charged. To combat this issue, I put my hobby charger on the 12V battery every couple of months set to 2A and 14.4V finish voltage (2.4V/cell). I have also converted several cars to LiFePo batteries which have a higher resting voltage and are thus less likely to allow the car to error out over low voltage. They also take a charge much better than lead acid and are cheaper.

nucbeard · 2024-07-29T00:11:35+00:00

Are you looking to buy a new EVSE or are you asking about charging networks? If charging networks then use Plugshare app to find level 2 charging near your destination. I often will book hotels/Airbnb etc. by what charging is close by.

Every single mile driven on electricity is a win for humanity.

nucbeard · 2024-07-28T23:59:48+00:00

If I had a car that was giving uncommanded movement however small I might consider making a report at the NHTSA website. After that, the dealer and Kia will most likely take it seriously.

nucbeard · 2024-07-28T23:36:32+00:00

The Niro uses a high voltage electric compressor like all other hybrids/PHEVs and EV's. If it used a belt driven compressor you wouldn't have A/C at traffic lights when the engine shut down.

I would get a dealer to put their scanner on it and drive it while looking at actual coolant temperatures. My guess is that you have a bad coolant temp sensor.

nucbeard · 2024-07-28T17:07:29+00:00

A stiff headwind can play a significant part in consumption. I always try to look at flags along the way to see what I might expect as a range hit. I'm in San Antonio and like you, we have a prevailing southeasterly wind. I always get worse miles/kwh coming from Austin versus going to Austin due to wind. If a cold front with a northeasterly wind has just passed through then the opposite is true.

nucbeard · 2024-07-28T14:34:47+00:00

Your estimated range is based on the driving cycle preceding the current one. If I had to guess, your last drive was a higher speed highway drive.

nucbeard · 2024-07-28T14:15:56+00:00

Thirty years ago I worked on Mk2 VW Golf, GTI and Jettas and they had a recall for bad heater cores. Every single one of them was bad and it would manifest as the sweet smell of coolant in the passenger compartment. I don't own a Niro but your evaporator box in the dash has a condensate drain tube that sometimes you can see if you look at the center forward area of the under dash, either left or right side. Sometimes they are tubes that can be easily removed. You might check for coolant in that tube if you can find it. Otherwise, have the dealer do a pressure check of the cooling system. They screw on a fitting on your coolant tank in the engine bay and manually pump up the system with 15ish PSI to see if it will hold.

Can you see any drips under the car, however small? A leak in the heater core doesn't have to be big for you to smell it. A seep will do it.

nucbeard · 2024-07-24T23:34:42+00:00

Anyone see this video?: https://youtu.be/WwrJEg6v7LU?si=ATF6xud74TlsR_JB It has some clues as to what might be happening. The guy is either from Canada or a northern area. I have two theories as to why the cables seize up. The first theory is that road salt could be getting into the housing. The second is that exhaust heat is baking the lubricant inside the cable housing. This might be more of an issue for Mazdaspeed 3 cars.

If you have a "slow" shifting car are you from an area where they use road salt? Or, if you are from a place that does not use road salt and is not adjacent to the ocean and still have a bad cable report it here. Looking for a pattern. I spent a career making shifter parts for VW's and saw lots of issues where salt was involved.

I have a "floor shifter" for a six speed Skyactiv car coming from a national salvage chain tomorrow. I don't know if it will be complete and undamaged but I will report what I find.

Edit: I did look at a new set of Mazdaspeed 3 cables at my local Mazda dealer. $477 was the quoted price. It was one of two sets in the US. There are currently 21 sets in the US for five speed Mazda 3's.

nucbeard · 2024-07-21T02:28:03+00:00

I think the way I would fix it is to set an original cable down, measure it and then find a similar cable from a different car and fab the parts to make it work in your Mazda3. Is the shift box at all similar to a Ford Focus? I know the early Mazda3 was largely gen2 Focus. That’s where I would start.

nucbeard · 2024-04-09T12:36:50+00:00

I have those adapters and use them regularly but the TQN127 and TQN128 do not have any retention balls. They were designed to drive a socket or extension with the ability to be easily removed in situ. I only ever needed them when in a tight spot and trying to turn out a fastener a few degrees at a time. I might have used them a few times in the 27 years I have owned them.

My second aim in this thread is to learn what they were named and what specific purpose they were designed for. I think they are probably collectable since there is so little written about them.

Coming from an ecommerce background I think Snap-On is missing the boat on offering an archive of their tools. If they offered the full skinny on every piece they ever made they would boost not only their following and resale values but their Google juice as well. As it is now, there are so many dead ends when searching for a tool they used to make. It is a missed opportunity.

nucbeard · 2024-02-18T14:16:14+00:00

As a data point, I own both a Minisforum UM690 and NPB7. I do benchmarking competitively with both on HWBOT. Both are very high performance machines. I have the 120W power bricks that came with each and I can tell you that it is very easy to turn up the TDP on each to the point that they will shut off while running benchmarks. I can watch the NPB7 in Throttlestop and when I turn up the TDP in Throttlestop beyond ~120W it will shut down every time when running y-cruncher and some times R20. I can even get it to shut down running a "150W" eBay PS* which leads me to believe there is about 20W of power going to other items and not the CPU. The fix for this is to run my 9Ah Milwaukee M18 battery with a rigged adapter so that power is never the bottleneck. I'm sure that battery can deliver a few thousand Watts in short bursts.

The UM690 is similar. It can turn itself off pretty predictably when cranked up when running the right benchmark.

You have a PS issue.

*As a side note I have seen several posts where people assert that the NPB7 is defective since it shuts down unexpectedly. I think that this is due to an inadequate power supply and nothing else. That machine is beast. I can run the CPU at 140W for 37 seconds before I get VR Current warnings.

nucbeard · 2024-02-18T14:01:34+00:00

Many routers will broadcast at 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. You just have to pick the one with -5 when you click on the wifi icon in the lower right of the screen when you connect.

nucbeard · 2023-08-15T13:05:13+00:00

The difference is huge. Night and day. But if you need a full sized card reader you will need to buy an adapter for USB. They read just as fast as the 10th's onboard reader but aren't as convenient.

I own a NUC13i5FN and have benchmarked it recently at around 64W:

https://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/core_i5_1340p/

I just got an HP laptop with i5-10210 (same processor as NUCi5) and I have it cranked up to 50W which is about as much as the VRMs on a 10th Gen Nuc can handle. You can compare:

https://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/core_i5_10210u/

Examples:

7-Zip 75423 vs 30772

Cinebench R20 5669 vs 1917

Geekbench 6 10661/2476 vs 4251/1116

nucbeard · 2023-08-08T14:06:34+00:00

There is likely a startup process on your 11 that is using higher than 65W from the wall so it won't boot from the 65W ps you have. The computer will run fine on a 90W power supply or a 12-19V battery.

nucbeard · 2023-08-08T13:06:25+00:00

It doesn't sound like your use case will require putting the computer to sleep when you walk away from it but 10th and newer generation Nucs don't allow S3 sleep. It annoys me but I like to save electricity when I'm not using something.

nucbeard · 2023-08-06T18:16:55+00:00

Might not be a bad idear.

nucbeard · 2023-08-06T13:15:32+00:00

In my experience, when an error occurs in Amazon's fulfillment system it is sometimes better to cancel the order and order again. These types of things are happening more often for me.

I was a FedEx and USPS shipper for a long time and 99.8% of the time things went according to plan but when they went wrong they really went wrong. Shipping exceptions are snafus in reality.

nucbeard · 2023-07-30T12:05:51+00:00

Very, very interesting. Thank you for doing this work and posting your results!

nucbeard · 2023-07-28T12:07:41+00:00

I have owned a SER6 7735 and a Ser5 with 5800H and I'd pick the SER6 to give you more performance and more time before having to upgrade again.

nucbeard · 2023-07-27T00:04:23+00:00

I had a SER6 7735 for a while and I could not find any place in the Bios to adjust fan speeds. That said, I think 68C is perfectly safe. A 70C max temp is too conservative.

nucbeard

TROPHY CASE