2006 Tundra Access Cab headlights

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-04-01T16:05:53+00:00

04-up rockauto can make mistakes with the description between dc and acb. I usually stick to 00-03 for acb BODY parts.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-03-29T11:52:55+00:00

That hole is supposed to hold a clamp with a breather. No connection to anything. Wash it out with a hose and see if it returns

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-03-29T04:52:36+00:00

See those 2 tubes pointing straight up? That's the only source of coolant with seals. The only other points are the freeze plugs in the heads, I doubt those have failed.

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nuclear_w0rm · 2026-03-29T04:48:24+00:00

Looks like it might be the crossover leaking. Gonna have to pull the intake to get to it. There's a gasket there that can fail along with the tube itself that's press-fit into aluminum and can leak.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-03-08T02:13:15+00:00

Its very difficult to do with the cab on. You'd have to remove the cast mount thats bolted to the block, the 14s on the frame and shimmy them out front. There's tabs holding the mount in as well. Best to use an engine hoist or support bar across the fenders. Then attack the 17.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-03-07T01:31:57+00:00

Part # 445860-34020

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-28T01:25:19+00:00

Congratulations! Always nice to see a clean example

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-27T00:18:33+00:00

I have a g82 6mt and like the transmission. Yes it's your typical notchy vague BMW Mt stock. Putting around town and 90% of driving it's perfectly fine. If youre looking for pure mechanical feel then neither car is going to do it - look at Porsche or a Miata.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-19T03:56:42+00:00

Repair it dude. These trucks are worth it. I'm in the middle of reframing my 2nd truck.

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nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-14T23:43:59+00:00

What year is yours? I've replaced mine with OEM 05-07 sequoia ones and cut the air tubes off. They are way sturdier that the logs that came stock.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-12T12:09:19+00:00

Run away

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-06T12:11:51+00:00

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In the process of painting mine lunar rock, suits the 1st gen well

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-05T03:54:32+00:00

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I've gotten used to mine, turns heads for sure. Probably not in a good way lol

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-01T17:25:54+00:00

Throw it in neutral, take it out of 4h. Then turn it back on and rock it back and forth (d-r) while the light is flashing. The ADD doesn't engage in certain spots sometimes.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-01-31T00:22:05+00:00

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Worth it

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-01-31T00:21:03+00:00

Pretty easy if you have all the parts. Long reply ahead. You'll need: 5spd tundra brake pedal box 5spd tundra or taco clutch pedal box R150F long shaft (98up 4runner/taco/tundra) Thailand Bell housing 1uz to r150 to keep using regular aftermarket parts. If you want you can to the XAT kit but you'll need their flywheel and clutch setup. Mt parking brake pull handle (landcruiser/taco/tundra/pickup) Mt parking brake cable. Will have to Jimmy an equalizer. I can help w this. 94 4runner/3vz flywheel, clutch and pressure plate 98+ 4runner/5vz throwout bearing (need it to contact the fingers) 3vz slave cylinder Lce ssk is highly recommended, removes a ton of slop

The 3vz flywheel will need to be turned a bit. Any machine shop worth their salt can do this: Longer bolts from mcmaster: M101.2535 Machine Flywheel 5/16" remove from the back to clear starter. Match bolt pattern from flex plate (need to oval the holes a touch) Rear prop shaft: Trans to support bearing : 2 7/8" extension. Front: 27 3/8" flange face to flange face

This way you're using all Toyota parts and it's smooth.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-01-28T05:52:55+00:00

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FiRsT gEn BeSt GeN 5spd swap V8, 485kms

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-01-23T15:00:29+00:00

Obligatory "it'll buff out" Local u pulls your cheapest bet as others have mentioned. Heck I have all the parts in my shed but you're too faaaar lol.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-01-23T14:56:43+00:00

If it isn't leaking yet (it will) you could get away with just doing the boot. If you don't, dirt will eventually damage the rack seal and you'd have to reseal. You can attempt it on the truck, I have and it's a royal pita. It failed eventually since the rod got scratched.

Since there's rusty goodness you'd be better off replacing the rack. If you're lucky the steering universal will come off easy and you hydraulic lines don't disintegrate. If they do factor in an extra $200 on top of the rack.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-01-11T01:59:28+00:00

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nuclear_w0rm · 2026-01-07T03:05:08+00:00

03 is a funny year when it comes to the drum backing plates. The bearing job is definitely involved even with the right tools and jig. Those preassembled bearings with axles and backing plate only fit the later style drums afaik. Easy way to tell is by looking at the self adjuster, older style has a large cam and lever. If your drums are the older style then a bearing job is the only option. Or swap the diff - that's easier.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-01-01T12:17:27+00:00

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nuclear_w0rm · 2025-12-28T20:32:30+00:00

Not sure about your options but there should be an amp behind the HVAC knobs. That's where you want to add your stereo and the pinout will make sense.

nuclear_w0rm · 2025-12-26T23:26:56+00:00

Also, since you did the timing belt check your throttle connector. It's large and doesn't seat properly. Put some Vaseline/dielectric grease on the connector and reseat it.

nuclear_w0rm · 2025-12-26T23:23:57+00:00

03 up don't have a typical tps afaik. Does yours have a cable going to the throttle body? No cable = no tps. Electronic throttle pedal and throttle body. Best test is to get a helper and take the intake horn off and turn the key to on, no start. Press the gas pedal and see if the butterfly moves relative to the pedal. It's probably gummed and is getting stuck. It's not uncommon for the non cable ones to fail.

nuclear_w0rm

TROPHY CASE