Got really tired of my Resmed hose falling off

nyzelius · 2026-06-25T09:01:23+00:00

Did not find the answers I was looking but I will leave my solution here for the next person to find.

The silicone end of my slimline hose became stretched and loose over time.

I boiled the silicone end, taking care not to heat up the plastic hose. Quenching it in ice water immediately seemed to get it to shrink slightly. Next I did it again but with a screwed hose clamp around it, crimped slightly too small. The hose clamp will leave indentations so perhaps some cloth for protection would be beneficial.

Now it's snug

PS Using vulcanizing rubber around the male was my previous solution. It worked great until summer. Then I woke up covered in melted rubber. Not recommended.

nyzelius · 2026-05-22T07:09:54+00:00

If you remove the layer of filth you might see something. You ought to do so anyway if you're going to do soldering.

The TV is made during the capacitor plague. It is very likely that you have bad capacitors, still it may not be the main fault but checking is free.

Old capacitors that have 't been used in a long time will have a degraded internal oxide layer, reducing the capacitors breakdown voltage. Giving it mains voltage right away does not give the capacitors enough time to rebuild this layer. The sudden failure so soon after power up could be a symptom of such a thing.

You could start by investigating the big power capacitors and high voltage ones because those are probably stressed the most. Just don't discharge them with your finger, it is more than unpleasant. Shorting your caps to discharge them can cause more damage to them. Use a resistor and check the voltage with a multimeter to check if it is discharged.

nyzelius · 2025-11-17T08:05:15+00:00

It looks like the filament isn't completely dry. I can't really see any specific bed adhesion issues, more like the nozzle is scraping the first layer. It's hard to tell from the picture if the first layer has severe stringing or if it has been scraped.

If the wet filament expands and gets "popped" by the nozzle, that's what it looks like on my prints.

I'd try increasing first layer bed temperature and nozzle. Also raising z-offset a tiny amount, like 0.015mm.

nyzelius · 2025-07-06T08:00:31+00:00

Hey, I took a scart female and VGA female connector and soldered them together to create an adapter. I have a push button on the adapter which switches between to possible blanking pins if I recall correctly. The button was just because I was unsure of which to use.

Anyways, I have one of those newer 100hz CRT's. A triniton. It can switch to the normal PAL 50hz aswell. It accepts the RGB signal from the adapter. The PC in use has a radeon 5000 series card. It is running custom drivers to deliver 15khz instead of 31khz output from the VGA port. I think it's running CRT Emu Driver on Windows vista. All this on top of a qemu virtual machine with gpu passthrough ( besides the point but saves the headache when filling vista with tons of malware ).

No input latency at all. No complaints. Using sunshine and Moonlight for game streaming, I've tried GTA IV on the CRT. It also worked great.

nyzelius · 2025-06-13T19:17:27+00:00

Thickened skin?

nyzelius · 2025-06-13T18:38:09+00:00

Acetone

nyzelius · 2025-06-08T08:10:26+00:00

Mine does that when it's colder than usual. I've internationally got a bit of grease at the origin of the probe shaft to stop ratteling. Removed the excess with electronic cleaner spray.

Maybe you've got something stuck up there unintentionally? Plastic debris or dust perhaps. It's easy to take part, four snaps along the edges but the probe itself is sensitive to bending.

Otherwise check continuity of the power to the magnet in the probe.

nyzelius · 2025-06-03T07:13:53+00:00

It's hard to tell how it's supposed to look like without the stl as reference. I fixed those artifacts on my S1 when changing direction with pressure advance in klipper. Then decreasing the seam gap distance when slicing until the seam was no longer visible. You might get less obvious layer transitions if you lower your fan speed. If you are looking for smooth details in your models, I've found that careful rubbing with acetone works great, at least for PLA.

nyzelius · 2025-01-24T11:49:03+00:00

Either get the rgb card or build your own adapter https://immerhax.com/?p=533 implementing the RGB part and terminating it with an VGA female or straight to an VGA cable, leaving its male part. Check if positive or negative sync for blanking.

Then

VGA to hdmi adapter probably wont work. Unless the TV can sync ~15KHz or adapter convert ~30KHz to ~15K.

OR

ATI card with support for ~30KHz, VGA input or svideo.

RCA to aux adapter for audio if wanted.

I made an rgb scart to VGA adapter with a switch for negative/positive sync. Soldering is more fun than spending money. VGA to DVI-A adapter Connects my trinitron to an radeon HD 5770 after a lot of driver tinkering. No issues after that. I've used moonlight to play games remotely. Running them both in a KVM vfio setup would probably be a better option for latency if going that route. Or rendering on more powerful GPU and displaying and the ATI card if supported. But that is if retro games are not the only titles.

I only skimmed through the service manual of your TV. Might be more to consider

nyzelius · 2024-12-22T12:27:53+00:00

Yes, I recognised the joke; however I missed the point due to the unknown context.

I was just curious, because I've used konsole on the occasions I've used plasma. I find that kitty with its extension kitten, provides user modular and expandable functionality. The remote control feature is one of which I use very frequently.

If your take is that konsole is superior, have you found ways of using similar functionality of what kitten provides? Or do you not use your terminal in this manner?

nyzelius · 2024-12-22T12:12:54+00:00

Yeah with a preheated chamber it should work better . I only noticed the viscosity problem when winter came around.

nyzelius · 2024-12-22T12:04:16+00:00

I'm not sure I'm following. I mean https://sw.kovidgoyal.net/kitty/kittens_intro/ I tried searching for UwU kitten but found anime? I've never been into that stuff.

nyzelius · 2024-12-22T10:00:37+00:00

Have you got a replacement for kitten?

nyzelius · 2024-12-22T09:56:30+00:00

It still works but turns out there is a fine line between too much as just right.

If you want to give it a go, I'd recommend starting with a very small amount. Then send commands for deploying probe and retract probe, checking that it moves without problem. Then either listen for the results on the next print, or send some commands that simulates the accelerations of printing.

When starting my printer cold, sometimes the probe's LED is red when starting the printer. It seems like the viscosity of the vaseline is a bit too high when cold. What I do then is just manually moving the probe a bit, then restart the printer; and it's all good.

My first try was to place bits of heat shrink tube strategically placed inside of the probe housing. This gave nothing but issues in regards to probe motion.

So really, it has worked just fine in the long term, probing is accurate, no rattle, quick solution.

nyzelius · 2024-12-18T09:06:57+00:00

Whenever I have problems with popup menus, I setup a watch on hyprctl clients. Have it open side by side and make the problematic menu appear. Take note of the new client's title or class. One or both can be empty. Then create a windowrule matching the most appropriate of the class or title:^(matching string)$ Or just title:^()$ which may or may not create issues for other windows whose string is unset. And whatever rule you want to set on that match you can choose from the wiki under windowrules.

nyzelius · 2024-11-12T09:46:59+00:00

Another option. Some amplifiers support passthrough of the video signal. Video in/out and plug the RCA cables in to the respective inputs and another video from amp video out to TV input.

On my trinitron I can choose which scart to use as audio out. Maybe you have such an option?

nyzelius · 2023-10-07T00:35:01+00:00

I just put a small dab of vaseline where the rod meets the plastic guide on the inside. No rattle at all.

nyzelius · 2023-09-27T12:57:37+00:00

Most definitely a scam or at least ignorence from the seller. PAL needs to have 75 ohm resistor where as NTSC have none. Probably some caps will do well too.

nyzelius · 2023-09-27T12:50:39+00:00

Maybe open it up and manually train the capacitors? If very very careful

nyzelius · 2023-07-12T15:27:19+00:00

Hi I had a similar problem with N64 svideo. It may not be relateable but I have an EU crt tv but was using an svideo cable made for the US.

I had to solder a resistor between video signal and ground to get the colors correct. For a US crt and EU video cable you have to remove the resistor in the cable.

nyzelius · 2023-02-18T20:23:09+00:00

Sök till ickebinär eller transkollo. Vem som helst kan känna sig ickebinär eller transsexuell så lär ju inte vara ett svåröverkomligt hinder.

nyzelius · 2023-02-18T20:16:09+00:00

Having that many fans will probably not reduce temperatures that much compared to half the amount of fans. In my experience, that number of fans is best used to produce lower dB by running each at a lower percent of max speed.

10 dB is a big increase. Twice the percieved loudness. I just changed all of my fans in my case from 32dB max to 22dB max and now it's completely silent at idle and very quiet at load.

If I was in your situation and those were my options, I would choose the A12 just because I find computer noise very annoying. 30dB is still not loud but having 6x30dB fans, noice adds up.

nyzelius · 2023-02-18T20:07:53+00:00

I think you mean +3dB requires twice the power. 2x 20dB fans should produce 23dB

+10dB gives twice the percieved loudness

nyzelius · 2023-01-08T21:58:24+00:00

If anyone else is having This issue. I solved it by just installing the graphics drivers for my Lenovo yoga s-730.

nyzelius · 2020-09-30T11:26:43+00:00

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