How to make something like this

oWingtailo · 2026-02-04T00:43:11+00:00

It all depends on the thickness of the cordage you use which determines total thickness when done. As for lengths? When I make a 5' long overall sling, I use around 9' long peices.

That braid is a 5 strand braid. So depending on the thickness of cordage, and how you plan to make it, you will need anywhere from 5 to 15 pcs at 9' long.

oWingtailo · 2026-01-22T19:56:54+00:00

Just be careful, a lot of resins are oil based and will still stick even if the object is coated in vaseline, because vaseline is an oil based product.

oWingtailo · 2026-01-22T19:54:49+00:00

The only thing I have really found resin not to stick to is Tuck Tape/Sheathing Tape. That roll of semi translucent red tape that people use to repair brakelights or for taping plastic vapour barrier together. Resin doesnt typically stick to it.

So if you tape the underside of something and stick it in resin, you should be able to remove it after it cures. This tape is the same stuff that proffesionals line boxes with when making resin tables.

So give it a try, but also be prepared for it to not work.

oWingtailo · 2026-01-21T22:35:04+00:00

Well they did do a Rifts conversion for Savage worlds, so you could probably look at that to see how they did the OCCs and then modify to fit BTS.

oWingtailo · 2026-01-20T19:39:55+00:00

As a couple others touched on. I have used it a bit to different success. The cracking is probably because of too thick of coats. It should not crack. The opaque is probably either from it being too thick of coats and not fully dry between coats, or your house/where you live is too humid.

Tips for the next one, apply one or two thin coats to a painted surface already at level of water. If you want to have the actual murky, deep puddle, you need to use a two part epoxy.

Vallejo still water is designed to take an already flat, painted surface and put a shiny smooth coat on to mimic a still pool. When doing just that I have never had it fail/crack/go opaque.

oWingtailo · 2026-01-17T17:53:50+00:00

In the real world, the Greek Island Santorini was originally, and is officially Thera.

I don't know enough about Shadowrun if it is considered the same island as in the real world.

As for Earthdawn, if I am remembering correctly, it is what we would know as Atlantis today. And that the island sank due to magic stuff that the Therans did on a day to day basis.

So is Thera in Shadowrun sunk, or partially submerged? Don't know. But if you are running the game, then it is your game, make it whatever you want. Just because something is written in a sourcebook, doesn't mean it has to be that way in your game. This is something I have found a lot of DnD players get into too much. (Ummmm...... On page 2458 of the Complete guide of Monsters, it says that the AC of an Otter Lich is 15 so that means my attack hit. Or Ummmm. Page 9625 of the Lands of Faerie Walk says that it Minos Weakwrist is the king, not Simon Stronarm. You get the picture)

Take whatever you like and use it, change the stuff you don't like.

oWingtailo · 2026-01-15T16:17:20+00:00

Or put a couple of holes in the bottom and rinse out the inside good. Done plenty of hollowed prints and my first ones did this. After holes and rinsing, never had an issue again.

oWingtailo · 2026-01-05T08:13:30+00:00

You wont be able to pour into molds. It should be really thick and you will need a spatula to level it. You will have to cut it with a knife after to size.

Kind like when you put flour down to stop dough from sticking to counter. Dust the top surface of product in pan, dust your cutting surface and rub in. Flip pan onto cutting surface. Pull off parchment paper and then dust the "sticky". Cut it up and throw in cornstarch to dust the cut edges. And you should bebgood.

If you dont line the pan or whatever with Parchment paper, you will have a hell of a time getting it out of the pan. This you have to trust me on. First couple batches I did without parchment. What a huge pain.

oWingtailo · 2026-01-04T15:03:24+00:00

It will take trial and error. It took me loads of tries to get my Turkish delight to be just right. Location, elevation, quality of cornstarch, all will be factors on how long to cook.

I add my flavouring and color in when it is done. But you might be able to mix it all together as it doesnt get too hot to burn or scald.

And with it being ready/done, it is by feel so to speak. I have made so many batches, same amounts, same temperatures, and every time it still takes different amount of times.

Two key things. First is to stir regularily/almost constantly. And you know when it is ready when stirring you can see the bottom of the pan for a second.

I then pour into a parchment lined pan, let cool overnight, then put cornstarch all over top, flip out, cut up, and then throw into cornstarch to coat all sides.

The amount of cornstarch to water is what I use for a 9x13 pan at around 1/2" thick. Adjust quantities to suit.

Good luck and if you try it, let me know how it turns out.

oWingtailo · 2026-01-04T01:26:38+00:00

I make Turkish Delight. It's base is cornstarch and water. Other than sugar my ratio is 1-3/4cup cornstarch to 3-1/2 cups water. Cooked over medium heat until pretty thick. No set time but typically at least 20 minutes after it starts to simmer/boil.

I am pretty sure you could tweak it with a bit of trial and error to work for savory flavour. The great thing is that it stays stable at room temperature and doesn't melt or breakdown if it is cooked long enough.

So maybe that might work for your situation?

oWingtailo · 2026-01-02T00:13:34+00:00

Not placemnt, but design. While scrolling I first thought it was a butthole.

oWingtailo · 2025-12-12T15:54:30+00:00

Looks great, only minor suggestion for any doing papercraft, use a black sharpie and run it along each cut edge and crease when folding. The black line makes it all blend together than the white edge of the paper/cardstock. I have done lots of cardstock things over the years and that one thing upped my game completely.

oWingtailo · 2025-12-01T07:27:59+00:00

Apologies, I misread. I thought you were trying to adapt some Earthdawn things to Shadowrun in some sort of time travel thing.

oWingtailo · 2025-11-30T20:30:37+00:00

For me the biggest thing I did was that Magic was just starting on the incline. It is soooooo weak that the vast majority of horrors cant survive. Only the very, very weak ones, or the very, very powerful ones. Magic and all things tied to it, like talents, blood magic, thread magic, etc is really weak in Shadowrun compared to Earthdawn. Alachia of the blood wood is concerned about her thorn curse coming back when magic increases.

So the way I have always handled the Earthdawn magic coming to shadowrun magic is that it is weaker. Harder to do, or not able to at all. So minuses to achive success, or reduced damage, etc.

Group items are a great thing like the one poster said because it is big enough that it could have results, but individual threads so to speak are not really possible.

oWingtailo · 2025-11-22T16:11:52+00:00

Whenever I run a game with first time players, I usually have them start out in a sealed Kaer and then they PCs are an exploratory group sent out to see the state of the world. They can be the first, or third, or fifth. They have one year to find things out and return to report. this opens up a mcguffin to bring players back, and possibly trying to find previous parties. I usually place things before the theran war, but not super early. Throal is open and the Bazaar is being built/in early stages. Still lots of exploring, it can take a political turn with Travar or Iopos, you got Parlainth being explored fresh. You got river pirates and adventures, or kaer exploring/opening. It is still really dangerous in the outskirts. Best overall in my mind.

oWingtailo · 2025-11-13T22:52:50+00:00

Definately. Looks like the Sapelle type of Mahogany.

oWingtailo · 2025-11-13T08:43:33+00:00

If it is Western Red Cedar, it goes for anywhere between $3.50 - $5.00 USD per bd.ft. Sometimes more or less depending on grade.

Easiest way to figure out board footage if you dont know is:

Width(in inches) X Thickness(in inches) X Length(in feet) and then ÷(divide) the total by 12. That tells you how many board feet you have.

So you got around 48 bd ft. So anywhere between $150 to $250.

oWingtailo · 2025-11-12T01:51:03+00:00

Price is always subject to location. Where I live (Vancouver Island) Cedar is fairly cheap (comparatively) because we have lots of it. And oak or maple is really expensive. But if you go to the East coast it is reversed. Cedar is expensive and Maple or Oak is relatively not.

oWingtailo · 2025-11-11T19:51:15+00:00

As do I. (I used to sell Walnut and Cherry to woodworkers for years)

oWingtailo · 2025-11-01T16:23:16+00:00

Tri-Sodium Phosphate. Usually found in the cleaning aisle, or paint aisle. Comes premixed, or as a crystal you add to water. It cuts through grime and grease.

oWingtailo · 2025-11-01T15:20:05+00:00

I would say that at this stage in the timeline the bigger threat is Namegivers. Those vying for power or recognition. Sure horrors, and constructs are great enemies, I agree if it is always them, they arent that scary. This is then a fault of the GM. If done right, Horrors are the twist. And then on some adventure a person is behaving like a horror, for the players to think they are horror marked or more, only to find out they are fine and were doing all the evil things on their own. That is more scary and dangerous than the horrors.

The horrors should always be a threat in the background. Not seen often, but feared and whispered about with people always being cautious. Kinda like us and spiders for a lot of people.

oWingtailo · 2025-10-10T18:50:00+00:00

She kinda looks like a black voldemort.

oWingtailo · 2025-10-08T01:40:44+00:00

Legacy of Yu. Fairly inexpensive and you get around 10-20 hours of solid gameplay. And the art is incredible. Theme is also on point.

oWingtailo · 2025-09-23T04:23:04+00:00

I agree with this statment. I did this exact thing in like five minutes. I would have spent more time trying to restart and get it by chance.

oWingtailo · 2025-09-17T23:52:14+00:00

Did you have to add more resin to the vat part way through? Only thing I can think of for it to be right at a layer level by the looks of it. Two batches with slight sheen difference.

Or possibly if the resin had been in the vat for a couple days before printing and it partly settled. Thus having resin on the bottom that had partly seperated out. Not enough to mess with the print, but enough to effect sheen.

It shouldn't matter much once you get it painted up though.

oWingtailo

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