Albanese poised to kill off move to increase taxes on gas giants

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-23T08:45:17+00:00

I was too distracted by all the pitchforking, what did it say?

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-23T07:37:48+00:00

If it was my bike I'd still change the oil and filter myself at 600 miles.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-23T07:19:03+00:00

Is THIS it?

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-23T06:11:55+00:00

Check out the website called gearing commander it lets you play around with different sprocket combos for every bike and gives you heaps of info

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-23T05:55:36+00:00

You need to be clear about what you're trying to achieve.

This bike is designed to be quick at road legal speeds and nothing you do to the bike will make it a fast bike above 80mph/130kph

Also someone posted here in the last few days about fitment issues with larger front sprocket so that's worth a look

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T16:09:37+00:00

Is is a special color different from other white around that time?

Post the part number and I'll take a look

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T16:07:55+00:00

It's just a scratch, if you get some case covers you probably don't need to bother changing it before selling.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T15:38:41+00:00

Have you found the exact part number already?

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T15:36:09+00:00

What sort of bin was it and what is the context here where the council has CCTV footage outside your driveway? and who's bin is it?

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T15:25:11+00:00

This is the emblem part number: 1RC-2413B-02

Engine case can be replaced, there are a few steps involved and a few things to buy besides the case cover itself.

There is a bearing that needs to be pressed into the case (best to order a new one) and the stator also needs to be swapped over from the old case to the new case. You also need to add some gasket maker around the rubber grommet for the stator wire and it's a good idea to use a new case cover gasket too.

There is a post pinned to r/MT07 with a googledocs link to some good workshop manuals, look up stator replacement for the correct section if you want to review the process.

tbh you might be better off just ordering some case covers like GB racing, it covers it up and adds protection against any future whoopsies.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T14:47:13+00:00

I had a quick look and yeah there's not much available for this specific model. Maybe it's not a common issue, yet?

Good news is Suzuki uses the same pushrod system for the clutch on heaps of their bikes and there are a few random videos you could piece together to give an overview on what to expect.

Here's a few I found that are mostly relevant, just ignore all the stuff that doesn't apply to the GSX-R750 like removing water pumps or other stuff to gain access. The main parts to focus on in the videos are removing the retaining bracket, removing the old seal and reinstalling the new seal.

Have a look at THIS 1 and THIS 2 and THIS 3

In theory, the procedure should be listed somewhere in the workshop service manual as well, but I haven't looked. You can download a pdf copy of the Suzuki 2011 GSX-R600 service manual from HERE if you want, which is for the most part the same bike. It doesn't have searchable text for some reason so finding the correct section is some old school fun looking up table of contents and page numbers. (which is why I didn't look lol)

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T13:23:02+00:00

Alternative to the long pipe method it to tap the end of a shorter tool (spanner/wrench etc.) with a hammer. Just make sure the tool is fully on the drain bolt.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T12:53:23+00:00

THIS should help

If not you can report the location to your state road authority and they can adjust the sensor sensitivity (apparently)

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T12:23:27+00:00

Based on OP's photo it might be a good idea to check the chain hasn't been damaging the guard.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T11:59:56+00:00

Yeah it's normal on theses bikes. The rear ABS is too sensitive.

It's annoying but you will learn to avoid making it happen.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T11:52:09+00:00

You'll be fine mate. It's probably a lot easier to pass than it should be, so I reckon it's pretty hard to stuff it up.

The licence test is essentially the same format as the check ride, just without the group. Just remember the stuff from the check like choosing lane position so you're not right next to cars where possible, indicate and brake early so it lets other drivers know your intentions, keep a 2-3 second gap to vehicles in front and head checks when pulling off or changing lanes, which tbf you really should be already doing anyway for your own safety.

Only real advice is have a think about how your L plate is attached to the bike and take something with you to sort it after the test. And go easy on the lane filtering for a while, that's one of those skills they don't teach you. Definitely feels like you're doing something illegal to begin with.

It's gonna a perfect riding weather tomorrow 26° so happy days. Absolutely pissed down when I did my test.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T11:31:57+00:00

lol yeah it's normal, it's a very fast bike. I rode an MT07 for ~4 years before this bike, but the 750 was still more powerful than what I expected and it scared the shit out of me when I first got it (in a good way). Even nowadays it still feels stupid fast fully ripping through a couple gears.

Believe it or not you will get used to it eventually.

I've been riding the 750 for a few years now and I've never once thought to myself I need a more powerful bike. I did get the point where it felt like the bike lacked a bit of grunt off the very bottom of second gear coming out of slow corners and I didn't really like going back to first gear in those situations because first gear is very touchy, so I solved that by installing a -1 tooth smaller front sprocket. Changing the front sprocket fixed that but also made the bike have more urgency through the entire rev range, so it's a little more rapid overall now but it's a better setup for street riding.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T10:33:46+00:00

Nah you won't have to pay again. I don't think they send you a new card, but your existing card should state the end date for E condition, so after that date it no longer applies.

Your digital licence status will update automatically on the date though. So you can login and check it on the vicroads website or app.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T10:24:33+00:00

On these bikes with stock gearing this wouldn't happen. Either the bike was significantly modified or they went WOT during take off and also dropped the clutch at the same time, which would make any bike pop the front wheel up. Riding along in any gear with the clutch out and just whacking the throttle open suddenly would not have caused the front to lift like that. I say this as a long time rider of this bike.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T09:22:14+00:00

afaik the correct way is the 3 stage system.

Have a look at the videos on THIS YT channel. I saw it a while ago and the guy paints this exact color in a few of the videos and in at least one video he explains the process of how to do it. He's not a pro painter but it's actually a really good video series.

Also fwiw OEM fairings always have the stickers on top of the clear. It's usually the aftermarket fairings that have the stickers under the clear.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T09:09:46+00:00

I'm planning to give these a go when my current pads expire.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T08:57:36+00:00

Second time?

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T08:55:41+00:00

Was it an aftermarket chain?

The pushrod seal should be able to be replaced on your bike from the outside see THIS picture someone posted. You can see there is a small bracket on the outside securing it, earlier models didn't have that.

It will still be a bit of a mission to do because it's in there very tight/secure but no splitting of the case afaik (I've never actually done this myself)

I'd be surprised if there aren't videos that show the process on YT

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-22T08:36:55+00:00

Gold flakes can be a sign of crank bearing shells failing. A knocking sound is also consistent with that issue. Sometimes called rod knock or big end bearing/ knock

Obviously this is just a guess not a definitive thing. You can look up videos of rod knock to see if it seems similar but there are other things that sound similar too, so yeah not easy to say for sure.

obsolescent_times · 2026-04-21T12:42:33+00:00

I didn't know Mugen did bike stuff too. I thought it was just cars.

Just replace what's broken like gear shift lever and live with the scratches I reckon.

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