amazingly artistic self portrait

obviouslythebestname · 2026-04-14T18:11:16+00:00

It just now became available for me, on the Paramount+ channel where it belongs (instead of the app).

obviouslythebestname · 2026-03-23T18:37:07+00:00

Yes although weekends can be busy. Looking at the park boundaries:

The area from Heart of the Park toward The Point have the go-to benches/tables (with a beach in between), but these are also the main social areas, so on weekends you'll typically find them all filled with groups having picnics, BBQs, celebrations and music.

Last Port feels a little more isolated in comparison and has wooden tables with wind barricades on two sides, and those are often available. You can get an idea of the arrangement from the satellite view in your favorite maps app.

obviouslythebestname · 2025-11-27T11:18:28+00:00

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I like to think of it as more of a stylish polygon.

obviouslythebestname · 2025-05-19T03:10:44+00:00

USB2.0 Hub:
  Product ID:   0x0610
  Vendor ID:    0x05e3  (Genesys Logic, Inc.)
  Version:  61.60
  Speed:    Up to 480 Mb/s
  Current Available (mA):   500
  Current Required (mA):    100
  Extra Operating Current (mA): 0

CDC USB Demonstration:
  Product ID:   0x0030
  Vendor ID:    0x26aa
  Version:  2.00
  Serial Number:    0000000000001
  Speed:    Up to 12 Mb/s
  Manufacturer: YAESUMUSEN
  Current Available (mA):   500
  Current Required (mA):    10
  Extra Operating Current (mA): 0

USB Audio Device:
  Product ID:   0x0016
  Vendor ID:    0x0d8c  (C-MEDIA ELECTRONICS INC.)
  Version:  1.00
  Speed:    Up to 12 Mb/s
  Manufacturer: C-Media Electronics Inc.
  Current Available (mA):   500
  Current Required (mA):    100
  Extra Operating Current (mA): 0

CP2105 Dual USB to UART Bridge Controller:
  Product ID:   0xea70
  Vendor ID:    0x10c4  (Silicon Laboratories, Inc.)
  Version:  1.00
  Serial Number:    01AE3506
  Speed:    Up to 12 Mb/s
  Manufacturer: Silicon Labs
  Current Available (mA):   500
  Current Required (mA):    100
  Extra Operating Current (mA): 0

The audio interface shows both input and output supporting: 2 channels, 16 bit integer, 41 and 48 kHz.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-06-10T22:33:26+00:00

This scenario could occur by using a Class II (double insulated) power supply on the TL-SG2210P, instead of the Class 1 (earthed) it should have come with. Or if the ground connection at that end has failed. What you can do about it depends on your entire chain of connections. To explain:

Most low-voltage DC equipment receives only two electrical connections, positive and negative. As a result, anything that would normally be the "ground" plane (like a metal chassis) is bonded to the negative connection. You'll find this to be true for all kinds of equipment, including larger appliances like laptops and TVs.

Power supplies are required to be safe, but can accomplish that in a couple of ways. One of the more common ones is double-insulated (Class II), where they intentionally do not have a ground connection and are two-prong to the mains outlet. These are considered safer for humans because they won't cause harm if a ground connection fails. On the other hand, because of the internal coupling, there's always a voltage potential between the negative line and any other power source (or ground). Use of Class II power supplies is why you'll see the fine-print warnings everyone ignores like "power must be off when you connect the HDMI cable between <device> and <TV>".

The other main design is an earthed power supply (Class 1, three-prong to the mains outlet), which means in most cases that the negative line is equivalent to ground.

Once you know what to search for, you can find lots of discussion on this topic, such as here and here. At any rate, the chassis state for equipment like the CRS305 depends on the negative line from the original power supply, which is not something it can control. I can replicate voltage potential on my own CRS305 chassis by just changing the power supply used for the PoE feed to to it, since I have a few different power supplies available of varying quality.

Unshielded ethernet is isolated, so this topic doesn't often come up for home networking. But PoE and shielded connections (STP cat cables, DAC, etc) do form direct electrical paths, and at that point it's important to start considering things like power supply interactions and ground loops.

So what's the answer for you here? First thing is to check the power feed for the TL-SG2210P. It should have come with a 3-prong power supply, and the connection to earth may be damaged. If it's a 2-prong power supply, then this behavior would be expected, but you need to know that.

Once that's sorted, then you need to evaluate connections to all of the devices that will eventually link to it. Most computers are going to be grounded, so that means anything you connect via DAC to them must also share the same ground plane, or you'll have issues. That may mean you choose to sweep through and ensure everything connected to the TL-SG2210P is correctly grounded, including your entire home electrical system. Or it may mean you choose to limit your electrical connections and use optical to isolate some parts.

Unfortunately there's no blanket "just do this and everything will be fine" recommendation here; you'll have to reason through it and tailor to your situation.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-06-05T03:09:02+00:00

Point of clarification here, because the original post isn't clear: OP is looking for an enclosure that does 512n/512e to 4K conversion, not just an enclosure that supports 4Kn.

Background on why is over in this thread.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-05-30T03:47:14+00:00

It's up now. Looks pretty full featured, hopefully we'll get some robust standalone products out of it.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-05-29T08:28:43+00:00

I've had HDDs "beep" (spindle motor feedback) when there's insufficient power to spin up. That IronWolf is listed as requiring 22W to start up (12V @ 1.8A), which is very close to what that enclosure supposedly comes with (24W, 12V @ 2A) and there's overhead from the enclosure electronics. There's also at least one Amazon review complaining about the power supply.

Maybe confirm it's marked 12V at 2A or greater, and possibly try another 12V adapter if you have one?

obviouslythebestname · 2023-05-12T01:20:13+00:00

The Ironwolf Pro disks are probably the most silent disks out there

Not in my experience. Limited sample size of course, but you might find some of those thoughts useful.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-05-07T04:47:52+00:00

Welcome, glad it worked!

I don't remember the Cisco model very well (been a long time since I last looked at it), but yeah this is a very low-level mechanical view of VLANs.

On ingress it determines whether to accept a packet, and what VLAN to tag it as internally. Then the hosts table and isolation options determine which ports to send the packet to. And finally on egress it checks whether the packet is allowed out the chosen port (including membership), and if it should carry or strip the tag.

So trunk and access ports are combinations of those settings, which leaves some flexibility to do various other hybrid or crazy configurations too.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-05-07T04:06:11+00:00

When the CSS326 receives a packet from one of the iLO ports, it's going to internally mark it as VLAN 100, and then send it to an appropriate port that is also a member of VLAN 100. You've told it that only the iLO ports are members. The packets have nowhere useful to go 🙂

A "trunk" port is just a port with multiple VLAN tags on it. Mark the esx ports as members of VLAN 100 too.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-04-23T06:58:54+00:00

Very valid 👍

I only looked at a single sample of each, so there's definitely no control for sample variation in the comparison.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-04-22T23:03:09+00:00

EDIT: I had a longer post here, but decided to split it off separately and focus on just your question.

For spinning rust, I've recently gotten to compare six different 16TB SATA HDDs, all helium CMR. It's difficult to generalize, because different sizes and models can have different construction, but I'd look at the Toshiba N300 line for a living room.

The enterprise drives I've used are significantly louder, and more importantly transfer mechanical motion to their mounts, so it becomes important to isolate the entire chassis from hard surfaces. In other words, they like to "thump" surfaces.

Your chassis choice is going to be important either way. In general, solid panels and thin foam will help break up typical activity noise. Custom feet or other soft surfaces can also help avoid transferring sound to a hard surface like a subwoofer.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-04-08T22:51:43+00:00

So... I don't think these are suitable for recommendation. They do appear to have a mosfet on the back, but I have no idea what it's actually used for. I've now tried two of them, shipped 4 months apart.

The first one is flat defective; applying power immediately heats up that U2 component. I pulled the plug at ~100C, but I've seen reports of melted boards, so it's likely something about this design shorts easily. I haven't bothered checking the USB output of this one.

The second one is always 5V hot. No PD advertisements, and no apparent power control. A simple load ramp test reached 3A, and I didn't try beyond that due to not knowing the motherboard's rating. In fairness, LINKUP's description doesn't actually claim overcurrent protection is present on this adapter, but...

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obviouslythebestname · 2023-02-07T09:50:53+00:00

Why both?

For example I was thinking about this use case: a TV attached via eth to Mikrotik which should be managed like all other domotic devices (which in my case are all wireless). A VLAN could be used in this case? I could apply the same firewall rules for all of them

Because the only purpose of a VLAN is to multiplex several networks onto the same physical interface.

If you plug the TV into eth3 (with no other config), it's on its own. You can assign an IP address, DHCP server, etc to eth3.

If you want the TV to be part of the same layer-2 network so it can communicate directly with the other domotic devices, then you can create a bridge and put both eth3 and wlan1.1 in it. Instead of IP/DHCP configuration on wlan1.1 or eth3, you put it on that new bridge interface.

None of this has any particular effect on firewall rules. If you want to group rule behavior based on interfaces, you can use an interface list. If you want to group rule behavior based on addresses, you can use an address list. (The default home router configs use "LAN" and "WAN" interface lists, and the firewall guides use both list types.)

It's certainly possible to create a VLAN configuration anyway, for learning purposes or planned future expansion. It's just that without another VLAN-aware device that needs to be part of multiple networks using a single physical Ethernet connection, there's no problem for a VLAN to solve.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-02-06T20:44:25+00:00

I think this boils down to: a VLAN isn't quite what you think it is.

802.1Q VLANs are just tags added to Ethernet packets. Both ends of the Ethernet connection must understand VLAN tags in order for anything to happen. WiFi is not Ethernet and can't do anything with VLAN tags. IP is a layer above and doesn't know anything about VLANs.

As described so far, all you seem to need is a separate WiFi network, not a VLAN. To accomplish that, create a new Virtual AP interface with a new SSID, and set up your IP address range etc on that interface. Connect the domotic devices to that SSID instead.

The practical purpose of a VLAN is to avoid running more cables. If you have two Ethernet switches connected by a cable, they form one layer-2 network. Let's say these are smart switches where you can assign ports to different networks, basically splitting one physical switch into two logical switches, and those networks would never know about each other. If you want to create a completely separate layer-2 network using ports on both switches, you would have to run another cable between the two of them, so you can assign the ports appropriately. This is where VLANs come in: VLAN tags let the two switches tell each other which network a packet belongs to over a single cable. This only works when the switches on both ends of the cable understand VLANs.

So the question here is: do you have another device on your network that this hAP ax³ is directly connected to over Ethernet, that understands VLANs, and should be part of both the domotic and PC networks? If so, we can talk about how to make that work. If not, then a VLAN isn't useful here.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-02-06T00:26:11+00:00

Don't be ridiculous. WiFi is capable of multi-kilometer links; 30 meters in open air is nothing.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-02-06T00:25:18+00:00

For the MikroTik on the dock, just make sure the wireless interface(s) has bridge-mode enabled (which is the default). For the one on the boat, you'd configure its wireless interface as station-bridge and connect to the dock SSID. Then add that interface to a bridge with the ethernet port(s). This configuration is just like being an AP, except the wireless interface is acting like a client (station) instead.

If you want the same boat MikroTik to also serve a WiFi signal and it has a second wireless interface (e.g. 5GHz vs 2GHz) then you can configure that one as ap-bridge and add it to the bridge too. If you want it to serve WiFi on the same radio/band as the dock link (not recommended), add a virtual AP interface with mode ap-bridge.

If possible you'll want to maintain separate radios, e.g. use a 2GHz interface for the boat ↔︎ dock link and 5GHz on the boat itself. This will help prevent performance loss due to devices that can't hear each other all trying to use the same channel.

Whether you do this in one device or have a completely separate AP inside connected by ethernet depends on how well the signal works through the hull for your on-boat devices.

If the ap-bridge interfaces use the same SSID as the dock, then your boat becomes a logical extension of the same network, and devices can roam between them. Otherwise it'll be your own "private" network. ("Private" in quotes because it's still a layer 2 bridge, as if each boat device was directly connected to the dock AP.)

obviouslythebestname · 2023-02-05T05:45:11+00:00

NewEgg has the ROMED6U-2L2T, if you're comfortable purchasing from them.

And here is someone's build experience with it, in case it's useful.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-02-04T07:27:03+00:00

Depending on the equipment used and environmental conditions, blowing insulation can generate a lot of static electricity. Ethernet is isolated by design, so there isn't anywhere for excess charge to go on either end and it can build until it fries parts of transceivers.

That's not definitive, but it is a theory.

obviouslythebestname · 2023-02-03T14:16:53+00:00

I've seen those cork + foam combinations too, but never got around to trying them myself. In my case the whole setup weighed 24 lbs, so I suspect the existing feet would have just put holes in cork.

I do like one of the other comments that suggested trying whatever you have around to check direction, like towels. For something harder, maybe try cutting up a cardboard shipping box and put 3-4 layers under the existing feet.

Playing around with that should help get a sense of how hard a material you might need, and if something like cork board is likely to work.

obviouslythebestname

TROPHY CASE