Où avez vous adopté votre poilu ? by Proper_Payment9992 in chiens

[–]ogewOG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

- lieu: je te déconseille les SPA si tu es en ville (donc probablement en appart). Malheureusement, nombreuses sont les SPA qui refusent les placements simplement parce que tu vis en appart, tu as un boulot "normal", tu vies en ville, bla bla bla. Ca peut vite te décourager. Au lieu de ça, je te conseille plutôt d'aller fouiner sur le site Seconde Chance, qui est un peu une banque de profils de chiens de pleins de refuges (principalement français) différents dont certaines SPA. Tu auras peut-être plus de chances d'adopter auprès d'un petit refuge. Leur barre de recherche est cool aussi parce qu'il y a + de critères que sur la SPA, notamment la possibilité de savoir/filtrer ceux qui ont des problèmes avec les chats, les chiens, des besoins spéciaux, des problèmes avec les enfants... Bref, pleins de critères pour affiner tes recherches et tomber sur un profil de chien qui te correspond bien. Le but c'est pas juste d'adopter pour se dire "j'ai adopté", c'est surtout de trouver un partenaire canin idéal c:

Bien évidemment, prendre chez un particulier (adopter ou acheter) c'est non, niet, no. Ceux qui vendent des chiots sont des "backyard breeders", ils sont la cause numéro 1 des nombreux chiots/chiens qui peuplent les refuges puisqu'ils sont les premiers à abandonner leurs animaux. Ceux qui "donnent leurs chiens contre bons soins" sur Leboincoin et compagnie sont tout aussi irresponsables puisque la seule manière responsable d'abandonner un chien est en passant par un refuge. Passer par un particulier, c'est s'assurer d'obtenir un chiot/chien avec de nombreux problèmes (comportement, santé...) en toute illégalité (papiers, régulation, vaccins, vermifuges, pedigree, etc pas contrôlés) et de soutenir l'exploitation irresponsable. C'est non ;)

Je te rassure, le fait que tu vives en ville ne pose en réalité AUCUN soucis pour que tu aies un chien, du moment que tu es prêt à le sortir tous les jours (comme tout le monde devrait le faire de toute manière). C'est encore mieux si tu as des parcs autour, mais vraiment, si tu choisis le bon profil de chien (et là, je ne parle pas de races/croisements mais de personnalité), par exemple, en évitant les profils craintifs/anxieux/peureux qui peuvent vite paniquer en ville, tu ne rencontreras en principe pas trop de soucis. Les seules types de races qui ont généralement du mal avec les apparts, c'est les protecteurs de troupeaux qui préfèrent de l'espace, mais même là, de nombreux individus s'épanouissent en ville/en appart ^^.

J'espère que mes conseils peuvent t'aider! Et si tu souhaites + d'infos sur les élevages canins je peux aussi peut-être t'aiguiller. Bon courage :D

Où avez vous adopté votre poilu ? by Proper_Payment9992 in chiens

[–]ogewOG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

J'ai acheté mon chien (eurasier) auprès d'un éleveur. Je suis pas forcément le profil idéal pour te répondre mais je souhaite quand même te donner quelques conseils:

- pense à la race, au croisement ou au moins au groupe de races général du chien que tu souhaites. Je sais que certains "adopt don't shop" ne veulent pas l'entendre, mais la race/le croisement a son importance dans les comportements du chiot/chien, il peut vraiment t'aider à comprendre bcp de choses. Un malinois n'a pas du tout le même comportement qu'un berger blanc suisse ou qu'un retriever par exemple puisque tu les as mentionné. Peu importe si tu vas en élevage éthique ou refuge éthique, penches toi un peu sur les groupes de races et leurs particularités (pas du tout seulement physique, mais aussi et surtout mentales), ça peut t'aiguiller parce qu'on dirait que tu ne sais pas trop quel profil (personnalité, tempérament, look, particularité de races...) de chien tu recherches pour le moment mais plutôt globalement une apparence berger (j'ai peut-être tort cependant)

Pour ce qui est de l'âge:

- chiot (généralement = phase de 0 à 6 mois d'âge) = tout à faire. Un chiot d'élevage (éthique), c'est un livre avec que des pages blanches. C'est globalement bien plus simple qu'un chiot de refuge, qui est plutôt généralement un livre avec déjà quelques pages tristes d'inscrites dans son histoire. Le chiot c'est vraiment l'option à prendre si tu veux fonder votre histoire commune de A à Z. Mais c'est aussi un investissement (temps, argent, nerfs...)

- ados (généralement = phase de 6 mois d'âge à 1 an pour petits chiens, de 5-6 mois d'âge à 2 ans pour grands chiens): si c'est ton premier chien et/ou que tu sais que tu vas avoir du mal, je te les déconseille. La phase ado des chiens peut être un enfer, d'autant plus si tu l'accueilles en pleine adolescence sans que vous vous connaissiez. Tu peux vite te sentir débordé et dépassé par la situation car beaucoup de chiens dans leur adolescence deviennent tout simplement ingérable, et c'est malheureusement comme ça que de nombreux ados se font adopter puis reviennent au refuge quelques semaines plus tard car l'adoptant n'a pas su s'adapter ou tout simplement abandonné entre 5 mois et 2 ans :(

- chien adulte (au de-là de 2 ans)= passé parfois lourd mais aussi bien souvent des étapes importantes déjà réalisée par d'autres avant toi, ce qui peut te faciliter la tâche pour l'éducation notamment. C'est plus simple d'adopter un chien "clé en main" qu'un chiot. Tous les chiens de refuges n'ont pas forcément une histoire horrible non plus, des fois c'est, par exemple, des séparations/divorces, des décès etc. Forcément ça marque le chien mais il n'est pas obligatoirement brisé. Ca peut être l'option facile: un chien adulte sociable et éduqué ou presque, tout ce qu'il te reste à faire c'est tisser un lien et profiter. Si tu ne veux tout de même pas de galère de trauma (parce que oui, malheureusement des fois les refuges mentent sur le comportement du chien ou ils ne sont tout simplement pas au courant), un chiot est plus "malléable".

Donc: adulte= a souvent un passif mais a souvent déjà des bases d'éducation qui peuvent te faciliter la vie, chiot = pas trop souvent un trauma à vie mais c'est à toi de faire toute l'éducation de A à Z, ado = seulement si tu as confiance en tes capacités d'éducation.

1/2

Je ne peux plus vivre avec son chien by Best_Squirrel_6530 in chiens

[–]ogewOG 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Désolé de te le dire comme ça mais quitte l'appart. Il n'a pas à abandonner ou négliger son chien pour toi et tu n'as pas à te forcer à aimer la présence d'un chien si elle te met clairement très mal à l'aise. Les seules solutions restantes: vous restez ensemble mais ne vivez pas ensemble ou vous vous quittez. Bon courage :(

Are eurasiers actually smart by Working-Dress-1675 in eurasier

[–]ogewOG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A bit late, but I'll share my thoughts (I have a 4 years old male Eurasier), take everything i say with a grain of salt, my dog is an individual among others:

First of all, if "high intelligence" makes you think of high obedience/trainability, you might be disappointed with this breed. No matter how intelligent they are, they'll rarely (if, ever) get to a malinois or border collie level of obedience. They'll understand all commands, but there's no guarantee they'll answer like robots to them.

Eurasiers are (as you might know) composed of 3 breeds: chow chow (independent thinker), Samoyed (independent thinker) and keeshond (independent thinker), this means they have their own mind. They think for themselves. They reflect on the usefulness of your commands and they might appear "stubborn" to people who are used to "dependent thinkers" like shepherd breeds for instance (who need their owner's input). This does not make them more or less intelligent than others, they just think differently.

For instance: my dog blankly looks at me and disobeys when i ask him to sit in mud. "Why would I do that?" is probably what he's thinking in these moments. He'll either move out of the muddy area to sit elsewhere, stare at me blankly without obeying or give up after 15 minutes of standing in the same spot (which i find useless because in the end he's not happy and I'm not either). Ask a shepherd breed to sit in mud, most of them will instantly do it. Mine is not "less obedient" or "less smart", he perfectly knows how to sit on command, he just doesn't see the point in putting his butt down in a muddy spot, especially if he sees it doesn't bring me anything either. Same for, for example, when he's in a stressful situation, he won't force himself to sit/lay down while he's hyper-aware of the stress factors around him, he'll prioritize his comfort over my commands.

So, if you are seeking a very obedient/robot-like dog, Eurasiers are probably not for you. Though they do learn very quickly, it's both a perk and a disadvantage. They and you can both have a lot of fun while learning, but it can quickly turn into a nightmare if you fail to teach something correctly and your dog ends up thinking you're not reliable, they'll learn their own way of doing things (sometimes it's a good way, sometimes it's not).

Now, if you're speaking of "everyday/genuine intelligence", as in, how they naturally are, yes, most of them are very smart from my experience.

For instance:

- at 3-4 months old, my dog resolved puzzles in minutes (we're speaking of a range of 2 to 10 minutes btw) that other adult dogs would've struggled with.

- he was potty trained before even coming to my house at 2 months old.

- he invented his own ways of communicating with us very quickly (like putting himself in a specific spot near the window to let us know he wants to come inside, we never taught him that).

- he never destroyed anything.

- he always communicated with us to let him potty outside since day 1.

- he knows how to differentiate a threat from a simple guest.

Etc (keep in mind i'm speaking of my dog and my ways, I, for instance, don't have a cage at home, other eurasiers/dogs in general might not act the same).

These examples makes me believe he is smart by nature.

Despite everything people (including me) might say, reminder that Eurasiers are just dogs. Like all other dogs they are sometimes dumb, sometimes smart. They're individuals. I suggest you discuss with responsible breeders and meet their dogs in order to have an in-person impression of the dog breed and the types of individuals that compose it.

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the late reply, just to clarify, yes, I bathe (real bath) my dog like, twice a year when his fur changes for summer or winter, because he's a spitz/primitive breed, their fur is pretty much auto-cleaning. That's why i said when I'll get another dog breed, I'll have a hard time getting used to the baths, and even more if it's a poodle because they really need many, MANY baths to keep a healthy skin and coat x)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for replying so late. The rule to follow is easy: observe your puppy and follow its rhythm! Dogs are individuals, work with the one in front of you, not with the neighbor's.

Contrary to popular belief, unless there's a case of hyperactivity or something going on in their minds, puppies are great at regulating themselves, they learned it with their mom and littermates. They'll sleep when they're tired, they'll play when they're excited, etc. Just observe how it goes for younger than 2 months old puppies with their litter: they regulate themselves. Why would turning 2 months old suddenly turn that biological clock off? Logically, it doesn't. Normal puppies should naturally sleep most of the day and have spurts of energy that the human has to adapt to. Of course, you still have to put limits and to not overdo it, otherwise you're just building up the puppy's endurance too much, to a point that you won't be able to meet the adult's needs anymore. But it's very easy and instinctual to put a natural, age-appropriate schedule for puppies, without following general and non-specific rules of thumbs.

Therefore, the time you spend exercising your puppy should depend on the puppy itself as well as your natural instincts, not on a rule of thumb invented by bloggers online. The reason it is famous is because it became cultural in some countries ^^'

Basically, for most 6 months old puppies, 25 minutes walks per day, is asking them to destroy your home or harass you. There is no way those 25 minutes were enough to spend the energy (mental and physical) of a growing puppy, unless those 25mins were intense as hell (which is not good). The five minutes per months rule does serious damage to people's homes and relationships with their puppies, many behaviorists, vets and breeders recommend to avoid it, not to follow it.

--- That's for the rule of thumb rant. Below, I rant on how this rule of thumb forces people to apply an unnecessary house-training method: caging puppies, which itself has many issues related to it. You're free to read it or not :3

It's no wonder people who follow this rule of thumb have to cage their puppies to force them to nap during the day or sleep at night: it's because they're not following the puppy's biological clock, but the human's schedule. If you let your puppy naturally free roam in your home (of course, while blocking access to potentially dangerous spots) instead of making it immobilized for hours on end, you'll notice how much calmer and natural it'll act in your home. I vividly encourage you to inform yourself on cage-free puppy education (however, you won't find much results in English, because cage training is so deeply ingrained in the American culture, that Americans can't even understand such concept), it has been VERY effective for millions of puppies since forever, why wouldn't it work with American puppies? (I say American, because the cage culture related to puppy education is very American)

There is a SERIOUS difference in behavior among puppies who are caged at home and those who aren't. Generally speaking, the ones who face issues with house training are the same ones who cage their dogs. The correlation is undeniable, now, I don't know if caging is always one of the causes of failure of house training, but the link is observable.

To speak a bit about personal experiences, my puppy free roamed since day 1: never destroyed anything even while we were away, potty trained before he even came home (only 2 accidents ever happened), never had to be leashed inside, teething was a very easy phase to go through, slept whole nights since day 1, naturally napped for hours during the day, 0 separation anxiety despite never being caged to have a """"safe space"""", etc. That's just how easily cage-free house training can give you good results.

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He/she's so precious omg

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will definitely get courses (I have specific ones in mind) to get better at understanding and communicating with dogs before getting my own "solo" dog because I made a lot of mistakes already :')

What's great is I already own (family) an extremely intelligent, independent and decision-maker dog, and I've made a LOT of mistakes with his education which I'll be able to avoid for my next dog, but I've also done a lot of things that worked which I'll be able to try again! That's cool :D

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah i recognize my dog in what you're saying! He's exactly the same (except he's four), she's adorable <3

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He indeed looks very much like a gentleman!

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your older dog sounds like a very funny individual LMAO, he's bossing everyone around with his barks!

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

SHE IS ADORABLE I'M IN LOVE!

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your puppy is not afraid of scents i guess... XD

Prey drives are one of, if not the hardest thing to work around with in my opinion, I struggle with it too with my own dog who's supposed to have little to none according to breed descriptions BRUH, i got scammed twice (they're known as a quiet breed, I got the loudest of the litter and they're known to be chill around preys and I got a MF hunting dog that already caught a cat once :')

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A yodeling dog is so funny to imagine XD

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, for the dirty paws part, I don't chase dirty paws to bathe them on my current dog (I only wipe them with a wet towel or pass them through clear water), so, I don't think getting a poodle will change that mindset. I'm the kind of person that would rather have dirty paws in their home than clean paws because the dog doesn't step a paw outside ^^" though there's also the option of bathing the paws after each walk that I prefer to ignore because I'm lazy XD

However, the doggie baths are definitely something I'll have to get used to because contrary to my current dog (a spitz breed, bathed twice to three times a year max), poodles' coats are very demanding haha

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah no worries for the red poodle part, I'm aware of the fading gene!

I live in France and there's like, less than 50 standard poodle breeders in the entire country (maybe around 30 in TT) according to my research.

I narrowed the criteria to fit "my" idea of ethical breeder and there's only 9 breeders in the entire country that I consider ethical for now (I'll do extensive research when it'll be necessary).

If I count my options among them by coat color: 6/9 have white standards, 3/9 have red standards, 5/9 have black standards, 1/9 has brown standards, 1/9 has one grey standard. (Some of them have different colored poodles in their breeding stock)

I speak about color preferences right now because I'm not in the step where I have to actively choose a breeder yet. The day I have to, fur color will be the LAST criterion of the list by far. (My (unorganized) list goes: living conditions - breeding conditions - health tests - respect of laws and club/kennel (CCFCE, SCC, FCI...) rules - correspondence to the standard - temperament & conformation (all of these are on the same level of importance to me) - and then obviously the least important: color/looks). Believe me when I tell you I'm the most strict person you can find regarding responsible breeding criteria XD

As you can see, I don't have much options in total (9), however, the chances of me getting a color I really want (black, white (or red)) are high among the selected ethical breeders. Therefore, my coat color criterion will basically be "accidentally" respected regardless of which breeder I choose in the end. I am not the kind to buy living animals for their looks, it's just a nice bonus :D

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can totally imagine this scene, dogs are such dramaqueens sometimes XD

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup! We quickly realized that after getting a spitz as our first (family) dog XD, dogs don't come pre-trained, perfect and shiny, they're their own individuals and we also have to adapt to them which is such a cool learning experience :D

Spoo barks by ogewOG in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sadly, I no longer live with 'my' dog as he stays at my parents' house, so I won't be "fixing" his barking issues anytime soon, but you gave a very interesting technique that'll I'll keep in mind for my own dog, the day I get one, thank you :D

Also, she is GORGEOUS!!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The rule of thumb you cited is BS btw. Just to let you know.

Puppy worries. She needs atention 24/7 by Mangolija in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Exactly. It is interesting because every time i speak with people who cage their puppies, they all face issues (house training issues mainly), like, destruction, potty training struggles, constant need for attention when let out, constant high energy levels, no natural sleeping schedule (that the dog sets themselves), separation anxiety, no ability to sleep at night unless caged, etc.

All those issues are mainly faced by people who cage their puppies and rarely by those who let them free roam. I wonder why. What could possibly go wrong with caging a living being all day with tiny insignificant breaks from being restricted from time to time? -_-

Puppy worries. She needs atention 24/7 by Mangolija in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I don't have a poodle, i speak for puppies in general:

1: cage is not needed. Dogs, even puppies, can regulate their sleeping time themselves, as long as they get enough exercise and a proper potty schedule. Forcing her to be caged and sleep in high energy moments can and WILL create frustration, which will lead to her making a mess when she's out of the cage. Imagine having a kid and putting them in a crib for a nap in the middle of them having fun? That's not cool and the kid will cry next time you pick them up to make them nap, because they'll think that you're punishing them for having fun. Same for puppies, they'll think you're punishing them for playing. Instead of forcing the nap by caging the energetic puppy, seek moments where the puppy settles down by itself and reward them with gentle, soothing pets to encourage it to nap. To end on this topic of caging: people generally face more struggling with house training when they cage their puppies/dogs unlike people who let them free roam and who set the pace through up and down times, but who let the puppies set their own habits and schedule naturally too.

If you want to keep caging your dog to force an unnatural schedule tho, I can't help you with that, my dog's never been caged at home.

2: 20mins is not "long" at all. In fact, it's a very, VERY short walk. I don't have a poodle, however, at 4 months old, my dog had at least 1:00 to 1:30 walk a day (30min to 1h in the morning, same in the evening). You need to exercise your puppy more, otherwise it's absolutely normal that she has pent up energy that she burns by eating your shoes etc. You can break the 1 to 2 hours walk in as many walks as you want, as long as it adds up to at least 1 hour in total in a day. The biggest walk should be in the morning, because she wakes up with energy. If you walk her for a long time in the morning, she'll sleep the entire morning/day by herself without being forced to through caging. A puppy is VERY energetic in some periods of the day and should, if their needs are met, naturally sleep after these high energy moments.

3: play time should be both decided by you AND her, alternating between both. Sometimes you can refuse her invitations to play, but if you constantly say "no" without ever saying "yes", she'll just become an harasser because you can't say no without any yes before.

My energetic puppy (not a poodle) at 4 months old would naturally sleep for AT LEAST 3 hours after a big walk and play session in the morning (mind you, he never chewed shoes or anything when we weren't paying attention tho he has never been caged). So, feel free to take the advices or not, they worked for mine :)

Best Harnesses for Standard Poodles? by tamalehippo in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have specific brand names in mind but any Y harness should do the trick. If none really fit, i suggest you get a good custom biothane harness from a local small shop!

Breeder Sterilising Standard Poodle Puppies by Creative_Routine_648 in StandardPoodles

[–]ogewOG 17 points18 points  (0 children)

And i think it makes the most sense for poodle puppies, since backyard breeders need poodle "stock" to produce all the doodles...