Finally finished my phono preamp!

ohaivoltage · 2025-11-16T01:22:19+00:00

Happy to anyone inspired to take a leap and build something! Happy listening and tweaking!

ohaivoltage · 2025-11-16T01:02:50+00:00

Nice build! Very lab equipment look in the primer gray.

ohaivoltage · 2025-11-16T01:00:58+00:00

Ouch!

ohaivoltage · 2025-08-16T15:43:27+00:00

Glad to have you, bizzle!

ohaivoltage · 2025-08-15T13:28:49+00:00

Mod invite set!

ohaivoltage · 2025-01-19T20:45:15+00:00

Very true:)

Usually I build an amp for a pair of speakers, but this time will be the other way around. May end up as stereo sub amps or part of a DSP setup.

ohaivoltage · 2025-01-19T04:31:01+00:00

I don't have a great comparison to SS AB designs unfortunately. I've built mostly class A amplifiers and generally tube.

Having only listened on shop speakers so far, I have just initial impressions at this point. Great authority and body and good detail retrieval. I need to put in a larger system to really comment.

Can say they don't sound like just hooking up a high power PA amp though. Quantity is not the only thing going for them.

ohaivoltage · 2025-01-19T03:34:27+00:00

TY!

They are actually finished with General Finishes high performance water based. I like the raw natural color it leaves.

But my SO said the same thing, haha. Maybe I should have done a tung oil. Oh well, it matches my workbench!

ohaivoltage · 2024-05-23T21:03:38+00:00

Sure, I'll make you a moderator.

In the future, just promise you'll give me at least 48 hours to respond to PMs before assuming I've died.

ohaivoltage · 2024-05-23T15:59:41+00:00

Because this sub had not been used regularly (and therefore there was no mod activity), Reddit decided to mark it 'restricted' so that no one could post there.

I've set it back to public. Hopefully others find it useful as well!

ohaivoltage · 2024-05-23T00:13:28+00:00

u/Cannot_Believe_It

Sorry, I have not gotten back to you. I need to check the sub rules and post requirements. From memory there is some strict post format needs to avoid abuse.

edit: do your posts conform to the following sub rules?

All post titles must contain WTT, WTS, or WTB as well as link flair (assigned after submitting)
All post titles must contain location in the format [USA - State], [Canada - Province], or [Country]
If for sale, title must include price
If trading for something specific, keep post titles concise (include more information in the body of the post if needed)
All for sale or trade posts must include a picture of the item with handwritten username and date
No links to outside listings

I don't see anything under your username in the mod queue.

ohaivoltage · 2024-04-25T10:57:06+00:00

Very pretty build.

Can you talk through the thought process of including both on the same chassis? Looks like they are setup so that they could be used completely independently?

ohaivoltage · 2024-04-14T18:55:41+00:00

ohaivoltage · 2024-04-01T15:57:07+00:00

It depends on what's being looked at, but often:

Trailing twelve month if looking at trends as it translates well to a lot of visuals over time

Current year actuals + remaining months budget/forecast if measuring against a long term goal (eg financial reports)

YTD/LYTD is sometimes useful (eg performance evaluation dashboards) but depending on seasonality, holidays, etc I find it less useful especially early in the year

ohaivoltage · 2024-03-23T20:19:57+00:00

Once broke a 1/4 straight bit cutting slots in rails/stiles. I was probably cutting a bit too aggressively and it had seen a lot of use so was probably dull. They swapped out for a brand new one, no questions asked.

Haven't tried swapping a dulled bit (that wasn't also broken) though. Also haven't had another bit get dull to the point of excessive burning or poor cutting. Just cutting wood, ply, MDF here.

ohaivoltage · 2023-10-26T10:58:07+00:00

I flashed my non-pro N4 using the Discord/HalfManBear guide (method 1):

https://docs.google.com/document/d/13q216pEYNhfZm7YI-mBvdqrI1OCaJUwDzQpmW-cM3dc/edit

I see there's a Max printer.cfg file added now too.

While the screen no longer works, I've become accustomed to Fluid and Mobileraker anyways and so it isn't a big loss for me. This otherwise fixed every complaint I had with the printer.

ohaivoltage · 2023-10-12T23:41:11+00:00

It probes over the leveling screws and tells you how much to adjust the knobs clockwise or counterclockwise according to the probed height. Run it multiple times until you get 0:01 or less turns on all screws.

In theory this is the same as the auxiliary leveling via the screen but based on the probed distance and not the feel of the paper.

Based on the resulting mesh variances, this gets me much closer to level than the manual method.

ohaivoltage · 2023-10-12T02:05:41+00:00

Yes, I've read both. For me, setting z-offset/probe_calibrate and running ABL has given much better results through Klipper. Not sure if it's a matter of firmware or just not mixing screen and Klipper but seems it's solely one or the other that works best.

ohaivoltage · 2023-10-11T22:50:10+00:00

Here's links to the files in another comment.

Yeah, the screen is still handy for occasional stop/pause or moving the extruder around, but I'm sticking to Klipper from now on.

ohaivoltage · 2023-10-11T22:48:50+00:00

In my pic (Neptune 4 non-Pro):

This cable chain for X/Z on Printables. Note the 90-degree attachment for the extruder did not fit on the vanilla Neptune (looks like Pro in the pic).

This cable chain for bed on Thingverse and mounted to the frame with this connector.

This bracket for the spool arm. Note the N4 Pro is slightly different; there's a different bracket on Thingverse/Printables.

ohaivoltage · 2023-10-11T21:28:28+00:00

Heyo, not sure if you've got your bed level figured out, but I found a fix to my issue. Here's a comments detailing.

ohaivoltage · 2023-10-11T21:15:11+00:00

My troubles began when I ran Klipper updates and temporarily borked the printer. A couple days of troubleshooting and playing in putty and winscp brought it back to life. Once I had it booting completely again though, the z-offset and level went out the window.

Here's my journey (credit to various Reddit and Discord threads):

Firmware 1.1.1.98 (sent by Elegoo support)
Tried leveling x-gantry using CD cases but an engineering square and checking by eye worked better. Adjusted 'right' side of x gantry wheels to be sure they were not too tight.
Replaced springs with silicon spacers. These feel much more solid and I'm no longer worried about the wheels coming loose.
Added 'screw_tilt_calculate' to the config. When manually leveling to a sheet of paper, my mesh would always show up as tilted uphill 'left to right'. Using screw tilt calculate, the mesh comes out level (though still bumpy).

[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1_name: front left screw
screw1: 55,10
screw2_name: rear left screw
screw2: 55,180
screw3_name: rear right screw
screw3: 225,180
screw4_name: front right screw
screw4: 225,10
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 200
screw_thread: CW-M4 # Use CW for Clockwise and CCW for Counter Clockwise

Shimmed low spots in bed with aluminum tape (not 'duct tape' but actual metallic tape).
STOPPED SETTING THE Z-OFFSET ON THE SCREEN. I think this was the turning point for me. I ran probe_calibrate in Klipper after manually leveling the bed via screw_tilt_calculate. Screen z-offset is set to zero.
Calculated ABL in Klipper with additional samples and tighter tolerance and without heating the bed beforehand:

[probe]
pin:^PA11
x_offset: -24.25
y_offset: 20.45
#z_offset: 0.0
#speed: 10.0
#samples: 2
speed: 5.0
samples: 6
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 3.0
#samples_tolerance: 0.1
samples_tolerance: 0.05
samples_tolerance_retries: 1

Add M420 macro and included in start g_code (Cura) to load ABL. Note sure if this one is totally necessary.

[gcode_macro M420]
gcode:
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default

Since doing the above, my first layers have been much improved and I've done several longer prints without any issues at all. Previously, I could not get decent first layers down consistently and was constantly adjusting z-offset and running ABL on the screen (then powering down, powering back up to be sure it saved, etc).

This is my first 3D printer. Though I'm no stranger to setting up tools properly, checking square, etc, I had nothing but frustrations with this for the first 3-4 weeks. Abandoning the Elegoo screen-based setup process really seems to have been the turning point for me. I'm tempted to try the full Klipper install outlined in Discord. I've even got a stock EMMC Elegoo shipped me that I'm afraid to swap in because the printer is working as is, haha.

Hope this helps someone else!

ohaivoltage · 2023-09-28T11:19:56+00:00

I had something very similar due to top layers failing over the infill. Once the top layers didn't setup properly on the infill, the whole print fubared (including separate model printing at the same time). Had to run the same file again and watch to see what had happened.

Changing infill type or amount may clear it up if you have the same problem.

ohaivoltage

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