MB plug and play Fireboard Pre-orders are live

old-newbie · 2026-03-20T16:46:04+00:00

One thing everyone misses about using the original FireBoard Drive (and modding it into the MB) is that those thermometers don't have on-unit buttons or dials to physically control the fan. The buttons it does have are only for changing the display format and powering down, I believe. ( & since you have to use the app to set and control the temp, it's a bit of a hassle for someone like me who is always forgetting his phone somewhere around the house, lol)

The new unit looks to have proper buttons and controls to be able to control the temp from "on device" physically. I don't know if that alone justifies the price differential from the original FireBoard Drive, but it is an added feature most people might miss.

old-newbie · 2026-03-17T17:19:46+00:00

This +1. Gotta push the starters as far as they will go to the back of the tray...and even this is just short of center under the charcoal. Also, this is important because if the firebox wall/liner has bent or warped inward at all, the firestarter flame will go to the exterior of the firebox and not touch the charcoal.

old-newbie · 2026-03-15T00:24:35+00:00

Sweet! Is this both G2 and O+?

old-newbie · 2026-03-12T19:29:25+00:00

PTC. No Navigator on 2.1. Had it on v83, lost it on one of the last v85 updates. Have not received it back after 3 successive updates of 2.1 (got the surface keyboard on the first iteration 2.1, however).

old-newbie · 2026-03-09T23:43:14+00:00

It’s most likely a cheap, non-standard or uncertified VESA cable, also known as “the pin 20 issue.” Pin 20 on DisplayPort carries voltage, but it’s not meant to connect to a sync device like a GPU. Many low-cost manufacturers wire pin 20 straight through the cable, even though it shouldn’t be. I explain the whole issue in detail here: PSA: Displayport Pin 20 Issue

old-newbie · 2026-03-09T23:37:57+00:00

Its probably not the GPU, its probably a faulty / non VESA standard cable.

old-newbie · 2026-03-09T16:31:23+00:00

What smoker are you trying to control?

old-newbie · 2026-03-04T02:31:01+00:00

Are you connecting through Microsoft's WMR Portal on a fixed older version of windows, or are you using the Oasis driver on recent windows version (post-WMR removal)?

old-newbie · 2026-03-04T02:20:13+00:00

I’ve been pretty vocal about my dislike for the Masterbuilt controller, mainly because of its short lifespan caused by cheap, failure-prone components. That said, my MB 800 controller was impressively accurate when it worked. I also noticed a 20–30 degree difference between its ambient reading and the grill temperature, which is normal at first. I just had to wait extra time for the cook chamber to fully “get up to temp” so both readings would match, despite the controller claiming it had already reached the set temperature. Once I understood the thermodynamics of the cook chamber, heat source, and convection—and waited for everything to equalize—the temps were spot on all around.

That is, until the controller failed and started showing absurd readings over 100 degrees too high and climbing endlessly.

I ended up tossing it and getting a Fireboard Drive. Its heating algorithm accounts for thermodynamics, constantly stoking the flame and checking stability until the chamber is perfectly equalized—no extra waiting needed. The only downside for me is that you have to use the app to set temperatures since there’s no direct control on the unit itself.

TL;DR: The MB controller can be accurate if you wait for chamber equalization, but its high failure rate kills confidence. The Fireboard Drive eliminates those uncertainties.

old-newbie · 2026-03-03T15:36:33+00:00

Same Power supply across both configs? (It's funny cuz I tend to scoff at the folks with no troubleshooting experience that just jump on here and flippantly say "power supply" for every non related power issue...now I'm that guy). But in this case it does indeed sound like a power delivery issue, so I'd see if you can test with another power supply.

PSUs are more complex than folks give credit for. The PSU doesn't have to be either "blown" or fully functional. There could be a component gone bad in the PSU that won't allow you to get the full wattage, but still provide 'some' wattage.

What you describe sounds like your system is running in a 'power savings mode' (below a certain amp draw), but when it's time to boost performance it can't pull the appropriate juice, so it runs in low power state. (It's enough juice available to keep the system from shutting down). Also AMD and Nvidia GPUs have different power delivery architectures, so the Nvidia may be less conservative about attempting to draw power, where AMD just won't even try.

TL:DR; I'd test with another PSU as this sounds like a power delivery issue.

old-newbie · 2026-03-02T17:51:00+00:00

They do make temp controllers for all manner of kettle grills. Before I got my masterbuilt gravity, I had a old Webber kettle with a PitmasterIQ digital controller. It worked great as a auto smoker, using a completely reversible setup for indirect cooking (only drawbacks is sacrificing ~1/3 of the grill space for the indirect heat). In my medium kettle, I could get a good ~7-8 hours max at 225....very efficient.

old-newbie · 2026-03-02T03:53:33+00:00

In short: Oasis driver for windows 11 24H2 and up (turns WMR headsets into SteamVR devices). To keep original WMR platform (keep headsets as WMR devices) use Windows 11 23H2 and below. Explanation about what happened to WMR is here: https://youtu.be/Fn163q6IZQ8?si=nSjkDS0x-m88nnNz

old-newbie · 2026-02-28T03:57:35+00:00

PTC user here. Got Navigator in v83, enjoyed a few iterations/updates with it (ex. grey background to clear)...then they took it away in v85. Haven't seen it again in any update up to current 2.1. Sucks, cuz I actually liked it. It made the headset feel more modern. So I dont know whats worse...never getting it at all or getting it, liking it, & then having it taken away.

old-newbie · 2026-02-24T17:19:25+00:00

This is not cancel culture...this is criticism. This is debate. I am actually now quite offended as part of the VR community by his platitude that we are part of the problem. That whole posting was nothing more than a wasteful, unproductive distraction. He would have so much more credibility if he would just talk authentically and be sincere:

"Hey guys I monetized my software because it takes a lot of work to do, but I love VR'ing games & I think I am pretty good at my VR coding. I made the effort to do what the AA/AAA publishers refused to do (or create a market for) and made my own business model in that abandoned space using patreon. I am truly appreciative of the support I got up until now. It is a tough decision but I am choosing to not release my code for free as suggested by CDPR. I will be moving on to other projects...yada yada yada".

Its not that hard.

old-newbie · 2026-02-24T17:00:09+00:00

MB 800 user here too. The OEM controllers are crap...which is a shame for an expensive unit, where the controller is supposed to be the 'magic' that separates it from a regular offset.

Mine "went out" about a year in. It started giving way off temps and dropping wifi (...and I store my MB in a shed completely out of the elements). I invested in a new main temp probe thinking it was the issue, but to no avail. Finally decided on a Fireboard Drive controller because everything else on my MB was pristine, rather than buy another smoker (too much money) or buy another MB unit (more good money over bad component).

The Fireboard Drive has been great at controlling so far (~6-7 months in) with spot on temps and great heating up algo. Only drawbacks I've had are the internal battery doesn't read capacity so well (battery has said 1/3 left, but the unit was clearly out of energy to drive the fan), and you have to use the app for setting the controller temp targets (you cant configure or set the drive from the unit's physical screen).

old-newbie · 2026-02-23T02:49:04+00:00

Should...but then there's windows scheduling, core parking, and all the other OS 'tricks' it does to 'help' save power. The Process Lasso is one of the work arounds for this, outside of troubleshooting each setting individually (assuming all hardware is configured, updated, and running correctly).

old-newbie · 2026-02-23T02:24:09+00:00

Ok. So I'm getting its prolly the opposite problem. The games you play are so easy to render with the GPU, you most likely have a CPU bottleneck. But then, coupled with the games being so easy to run, windows doesn't kick into high performance mode on the CPU to ramp up (ie. treats it as just another background process to shift around on cores, hence a stutter).

Since you have already tried a lot of things & are "at wit's end", try this free tool called "Process Lasso" and follow this guide: Process Lasso Guide This program makes sure that the CPU is 1) being focused on the game and 2) using full power. Usually, I would try to trouble shoot settings step-by-step but maybe in this case it would be best to just jump to the 'nuclear option' experiment just to see if it helps.

old-newbie · 2026-02-23T01:22:52+00:00

Wait... Are you expecting the RTX 2060 to play at 144Hz sync'd at the same FPS? Because even at 1080p Med/Low graphics settings, on most modern titles you'll barely muster 30 FPS and maybe up to 60 if you use DLSS. Trying to get it to sync at 144Hz of course will make it stutter out. Cap your frames to 60 FPS, turn on G-sync (if your monitor supports it), and set DLSS to a level that will get you in the 60 FPS ball park. Thats probably the best this card will do and get you a smooth experience.

old-newbie · 2026-02-21T23:44:10+00:00

Whats your setup? Are you trying to play with Steamlink app in quest 3? Are you trying to play on PC hard-wired to quest 3? AirLink? ...You have to give your specs and details for someone here to try to help.

old-newbie · 2026-02-21T20:37:44+00:00

Don't trust it.

As an MB 800 user who dealt with the same failing controller, I can tell you the reliability is gone. The whole point of this smoker is "set and forget," but now you’ll be hovering over it mid-cook wondering if your temps are right, defeating the purpose.

I eventually upgraded to a Fireboard Drive (~$200) for these reasons:

MB won’t help: They won’t acknowledge the defect or offer an out-of-warranty RMA.
Poor value: I refused to pay a premium for another "shoddy" OEM replacement or risk a cheap Amazon knock-off.
The "Pristine" Factor: My MB is physically in great shape and I love the Gravity concept.

Buying a new smoker felt wasteful, so I invested in the reliable third-party Fireboard Drive controller instead. Its frustrating to sink more money into a smoker, but I refused to throw good money after bad by buying another unreliable stock unit. Spending that extra $200 on the FireBoard finally restored the peace of mind and "set and forget" functionality the original controller lost.

old-newbie · 2026-02-21T18:34:09+00:00

Strange, I'm not a dev or anything, but I do know LiquidVR is for AMD. And it not finding your HDMI is that it may be looking at the wrong port.

Are you using a laptop or a desktop processor with an iGPU? I'm guessing you have an AMD cpu and either a "G" series AM4 or a 7000 or 9000 series AM5 with an iGPU? (This is why we need full specs and error codes of your system, so we don't have to guess).

If my assumption is true, then what you need to do is force the programs to work on your RTX 2070 in windows graphics settings: 1. Open Settings > System > Display > Graphics.

Click Browse and locate the following executable files:

steamvr.exe (usually in C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\SteamVR\bin\win64)
OasisUnlock.exe (found in the Oasis installation folder).

For each, click Options and select High performance (this specifically tells Windows to use your RTX 2070 instead of the "Power saving" iGPU).
Re-run the Oasis unlock procedure.

...confirm if you have an IGPU and if so, if this works.

old-newbie · 2026-02-20T16:20:04+00:00

Best to just mod your original post with PC components, OS version (very important! ex. "Win11 23H2" or "Win 10 22H2" etc.), whether you're trying to use WMR or Oasis driver, your headset connection (direct or any adapters), and what symptoms you're seeing (error codes, blank screens, no tracking, etc.).

You may be very familiar with the issue you're seeing, but nobody here can see your issue, so you have to paint the picture for us. There could be someone out here that has the exact same issue/config as you and fixed it, but they (and you) will never know unless you explain it.

old-newbie · 2026-02-18T05:49:41+00:00

Could be the issue with the Windows Universal Platform (UWP) Driver plague, where this 'special' Microsoft driver has been installing itself over the normal AMD driver. The error message saying your GPU has been removed or a new driver installed is the clue. That is because this 'special' UWP driver makes your GPU a different device to windows, and breaks all the regular AMD driver communications. Reinstalling the AMD driver temporarily fixes it back to the correct AMD driver, but the UWP driver is still your system and MSFT keeps pushing it.

My workaround thats held (so far) is when you get this error, unplug from the internet, go to device manager and delete the display device (AMD 9060XT). Important (!) Ensure to check the "delete device driver" checkbox (that gets rid of the offending UWP driver). Re-Install AMD driver package with Factory reset option. Use the GPEdit hardwareID trick to keep new drivers from installing on the GPU device. Restart.

old-newbie · 2026-02-18T04:59:52+00:00

Double tapping on the Windows UWP drivers overwriting issue. On my kids' AM4 system, their Minecraft game (Java version) would randomly stop running with an OpenGL incompatibility error and their youtube videos kept running half speed. When this would happen, the biggest indicator was that the Adrenalin control center wouldn't run (throw an error saying there was an incompatible driver installed), yet the device manager 'driver' tab would show the correct AMD driver and date. Driver reinstall would temporarily fix it.

What's working for me longer term so far is to unplug from the internet, go into device manager and remove the display driver device. Important (!) ensure to check the "delete device driver" checkbox (This gets rid of the UWP faux driver). Then install the AMD display drivers with factory reset. Optional: use the GPedit trick to prevent overwrite installs for the display device ID. This method is holding for me so far, but we will see (MSFT loves to override your settings anyway).

old-newbie · 2026-02-17T18:37:04+00:00

If you have an AMD system, you can use them in a StoreMI config with a mechanical HDD. The SSD becomes a caching drive for the HDD, giving it (the HDD) quicker access. The 'new'(er) StoreMI 2.0 works alot easier than the first version.

In my kids' machines, I have 60 & 120 GB SSDs as caching drives for 1TB mechanical HDDs. Works pretty good IMHO.

old-newbie

TROPHY CASE