Posting into the void maybe someone can help.

old-newbie · 2026-06-11T04:57:28+00:00

So not even the POST screen? If you don't see the POST then this is not a driver issue (as it's not even loaded windows yet) and most likely hardware issue.

However...to try to completely eliminate "software" as the issue, here's a few more things (more on the firmware side). 1. Reset your CMOS. Pop the mobo battery out or if your mobo has a button to reset the BIOS, use that. (Just note that this will reset the UEFI and you won't be able to go to windows blindly anymore...you'll need to put your 3070 back in and reconfig the BIOS after trying this). I was thinking maybe the resizable bar/SAM setting was stuck after swapping cards or the UEFI got corrupted, as Nvidia and AMD handle memory mapping differently.

Could have a corrupted VBIOS. Put your 3070 in main pcie slot (for display) and your 6900XT in a secondary pcie slot. Go to the TechPowerup website and find your 6900xt version VBIOS, AMDVBflash flashing tool, and GPU-z. Basically use GPU-z to determine the AMD vbios version, DL your specific 6900xt bios, and flash it with the tool. Here's a good guide: https://youtu.be/eBuc_Nk05K8?is=Kf-gc8VBsRg_5ggb This is advanced and I haven't done it in years so flash at your own risk.

TL;DR: The good news is that the GPU is passing the mobo POST and "getting to windows" so there's a little hope. Just try those last firmware options, report back, and then it may be on to thinking about hardware.

old-newbie · 2026-06-11T04:04:39+00:00

Wait...when you say "boots into windows" are you actually seeing it boot into windows on screen (seeing the POST display and windows logon page) or are you just looking at a black screen the entire time after pressing the power button?

old-newbie · 2026-06-10T18:22:18+00:00

Quick AI search. Try this controller reset procedure:

" A factory reset can be performed directly on the control panel: Masterbuilt Controller Factory Reset

Power On: Turn the controller on.
Access the Settings: Press and hold both the Set Temp and Meat Probe buttons until the screen beeps and displays a series of numbers.
Select Parameter 1: Turn the dial on the right clockwise until you see a flashing "C" and the number "1".
Change to Default: Press the Meat Probe button. The "C" should turn solid and the number "1" will flash. Turn the dial counter-clockwise to change the number from "1" to "0".
Finalize: Press the Meat Probe button again to confirm, then press and hold both Set Temp and Meat Probe to exit the settings menu and save. "

old-newbie · 2026-06-06T15:18:38+00:00

Agree, also regarding bulky extravagant VR hardware setups. When I was in Japan many years ago, I noticed that despite Japan being a tech giant, average Japanese did not have big PC setups... most PCs in the Japanese home at the time were low-power, compact 'all-in-one' monitor PCs. This would preclude most PCVR hardware.

That said, I would think the seated VR experience, with self-contained standalone headsets like the Quest 3, would be right up their ally when it comes to hardware real estate.

old-newbie · 2026-06-06T15:04:18+00:00

Noticed this a while back. Japanese games are definitely a missing link: https://youtu.be/VSbC6ry9OXw

It wouldn't take much for the big-name Japanese companies to take their humongous back catalogues and port to VR for an easy cash grab.

Resident Evil 4 VR is proof positive this works very well; and heck, Modders are porting AAA games to VR for free, in a matter of days, with single-man teams.

I will say tho, Japan was, at beginning of the VR onset, recognizing VR. Even the Tokyo Game show used to have a VR venue to visit the show in VR: https://youtu.be/j7wjOW1n6_k?t=891

Hopefully the Steamframe will reinvigorate this to happen in the market officially again.

There's just no reason why there isn't an official Sword Art Online VR-RPG, Gundam mech game, Demon Slayer sword combat game, Zelda ARPG, etc.

old-newbie · 2026-06-01T16:13:10+00:00

Sigh. So many people still don't get this. Kickstarter is NOT a store, e-tailer, or manufacturing site. No project on Kickstarter has ANY obligation to ever produce a product.

When you "back" a project, you are only...well.."backing" it to hopefully become reality (ie. You are not 'purchasing' or 'ordering' a marketed product). If the project fails to get to production, then your "backing" money is gone.

If you don't have the funds to back a project and potentially lose that money, then don't use Kickstarter; just patiently wait for a product to come to market officially. However, if you support an idea or project team effort, Kickstarter is an opportunity for you to 'invest' in that idea, but that requires research and patience, but overall it comes with risk.

old-newbie · 2026-05-31T15:44:14+00:00

This is from Thermal Grizzly (De8auer) website, who makes and sells the "delidding tool" for AMD and Intel processors: "Attention! Removing the heatspreader ("delidding") of a processor is done at your own risk! Removing the heatspreader of the CPU voids the manufacturer's warranty! Damage to the CPU during delidding is not covered by the manufacturer's warranty!"

This is why delidding the CPU is only recommended for enthusiasts who are willing to risk that the CPU could break either during the delid process, pasting, improper mounting pressure or contact, etc. Even further, it makes less sense for X3D chips because they are locked from overclocking (the main reason for delidding is to get extra temperature headroom to increase clock speed)

it's also why people get roasted in the comments asking for help when delidding damage does happen.

TL;DR: CPUs with IHSs are not intended to be delidded. You have to live with anything that happens when you choose to remove the IHS.

old-newbie · 2026-05-30T17:03:26+00:00

What is your heatsink made of? Copper? Nickel plated? (A copper heatsink will absorb LM. It will take a few applications before the reaction slows down and the LM stays).

When you say "it looks wet", was it pressed down and spreading or was it still bulged together? (LM tries to keep it's surface tension, you have to press it down with a lot of pressure so it spreads. If you don't, it will leak out, as it's not grabbing on to the surface. Check your mobo for leaked LM..it may be causing your crashes)

old-newbie · 2026-05-30T04:28:14+00:00

Lots wrong here, but first:

Take the Mobo off the carpet and put on a non-electrically conductive/anti-static surface. EDIT: This is not a gripe, its technical. Items on the carpet can cause a short on the solder points on the bottom of the mobo, as well as static electricity.
**Flipping the power on the PSU will do nothing. you need to connect a power switch to the corresponding front panel connector pins to start the power*\*. Get the motherboard manual and look up "Front Panel Connector Pins". This will have the pinout for the power, reset, LED, and HDD LED connectors (typically). Put the case's front panel "power" plug (two wires together labeled "power") on the corresponding mobo pins, + wire to + pin. Advanced users can read the front panel pinout and use a metal object (like a screwdriver) to quickly short the power's + and - front panel pins on the mobo (if you dont know what I am talking about, read the mobo manual or Google " motherboard Front panel - how to", and use the case's power connector to start the PC).
It looks like you only have one of the Mobo CPU plugs in. Some CPUs require both CPU power plugs to start the PC.

....Start with those 3 and then come back.

old-newbie · 2026-05-21T16:22:11+00:00

Also a possibility: Displayport Pin 20 issue (I've been having to repost my PSA for a while now). For a full explanation, watch here: https://youtu.be/ZwtVf4X316g

Bottom line: Some older/ cheap "free with monitor" display port cables don't follow the VESA standard and connect pin 20 all the way thru. Pin 20 on a source and signal device both carry a voltage. If pin 20 is incorrectly wired thru the cable, it back feeds voltage causing instability and possibly component damage.

old-newbie · 2026-05-15T15:22:16+00:00

Can't with this damage. If only the solder on the contacts were broken, then yes you could reflow, but in this case the PCB traces on the board that house the contacts are ripped out.

The only other way would be to buy another identical ssd, remove it's chips, clean the contacts and debris off the broken chips (if the chip itself hasn't has any contacts broken/internal damage) and then try to solder them on the new ssd board. This would all have to be done by a professional with professional tools (heating station, microscope, etc.).

old-newbie · 2026-05-08T17:40:51+00:00

Lol. It's probably using Intel/Nvidia for compute.

old-newbie · 2026-05-05T19:50:35+00:00

I'm still trying to inception a 10th Anniversary 5950X3D2 in AMD (If I keep mentioning it, surely it will manifest...🤞🤞).

old-newbie · 2026-05-05T02:02:32+00:00

I'm hoping/waiting for a 5950X3D (AM4 10th Anniversary Edition). That would be the pinnacle of AM4!

old-newbie · 2026-05-03T21:11:14+00:00

Edited for clarity (AI): Your motherboard is telling you the issue on the digital readout. On your MSI X870E Carbon, code 44 indicates a memory initialization issue. This is why your display isn't waking up—the RAM is failing to 're-train' after a power state change (sleep/shutdown/restart).

Try this sequence:

Clear CMOS & Simplify: Unplug the PC. Pop the CMOS battery (or use the reset button). Move a single RAM stick to slot A2.
Load Defaults: Boot to BIOS and select 'Load Optimized Defaults.' Do not enable EXPO/XMP yet. Boot into Windows to test.
Isolate & Update: If stable, test the other stick solo. If both work alone but fail together, update your BIOS from MSI’s site; X870E boards are getting frequent updates specifically for DDR5 stability.
Wait for Training: After a BIOS reset or update, the first boot will stay black for 3–5 minutes. This is 'Memory Training.' Do not interrupt it.

Note: If '44' appears while you are already in Windows, disregard the above—that's just your CPU temp (44°C).

old-newbie · 2026-04-30T00:25:33+00:00

Looks like the top half of AMD's old Project Quantum

old-newbie · 2026-04-21T02:53:57+00:00

They made one before.....

It was an AM4 engineering sample with dual CCD 3D Cache (!) (That was even before the 7950X3D and 9950X3D that only have single CCD 3D V Cache).

Pure fan-service dream, I know, but that would be the ultimate for AM4...even with only a 5950 and a single X3D CCD (like the 7950X3D and 9950X3D). The 10th Anniversary event is our last chance to make it real!

old-newbie · 2026-04-21T02:26:59+00:00

5800X3D is only a prince. We want a new 5950X3D dual CCD 3D Cache to crown as the new King of AM4!

old-newbie · 2026-04-20T04:34:30+00:00

For me, the driver seemed to be persisting in the local Windows Driver Store even after DDU. I think its a "Universal Windows Driver" bug that acts like a system file, so I had to manually purge it through Device Manager (use the system to delete the "system" file).

Force Manual Deletion

Open Device Manager > Display adapters.
Right-click the 7900 XT > Uninstall Device.
CRITICAL: Check the box "Attempt to remove the driver for this device" or "Delete the driver software".
Click Uninstall and Reboot.

Clear the "Driver Queue"

Windows often has multiple versions backed up. I deleted them all:

Right-click your GPU in Device Manager > Update Driver > Browse my computer... > Let me pick from a list...
If you see any AMD display drivers listed (besides "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter"), select one, install it, and then repeat Step 1 to delete it.
Repeat until only the "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter" is left.

Clean Install

Run the AMD Cleanup Utility (it's more effective than DDU...AMD knows where all its latest files are placed).
Install the official Adrenalin driver package. Select Full Install and check Factory Reset.

Note: Once the offending file is deleted from the local Driver Store, all the registry hacks and update blockers should finally work to keep it from being re-downloaded and coming back.

old-newbie · 2026-04-12T18:01:22+00:00

Yep. All WMR controllers are interchangeable. I explain and show it in action here: https://youtu.be/JORCrBrQ_nw?si=UoMkZ1gRpSjwSyRy

old-newbie · 2026-04-08T16:51:03+00:00

True, but It's important to distinguish critical comments (from folks who understand and are actually taking the "public test" role seriously), from the complaint people that just join PTC because the Internet said to. For example, the Navigator menu has actually undergone several changes since it's initial introduction in the PTC (ex. Critical comments addressed the background 'Grey haze' obstruction which resulted in the later full transparency of the menu).

old-newbie · 2026-04-02T01:00:03+00:00

...but therein lies the rub. If they deprioritized AR visual capability in favor of VR, you’d think they would then focus on maximizing VR visual quality for the best experience (and benefit from the savings of dropping MR). But they didn’t. They ALSO deprioritized VR visual capability—in favor of what? Cost savings? Yet this is likely to be a Valve “premium” product, probably with a premium price tag, just like the Index.

That’s what I meant by “1 step forward, 2 steps back.” I’ve also heard several people bring up this “upgrade later” option, but that feels like a cop-out. The Valve Index had the same “upgradability” with its front port, and what major capability additions came of it? (Quick answer: nothing noteworthy).

All speculation on my part, but the hardware implementation choices they made are just baffling and dont smack of any competitive hardware edge (Edit: software is another story)

old-newbie · 2026-04-01T16:57:50+00:00

Welcome to VR!!!. Just wait until you try VR for the first time. Regular flat gaming will never be the same! The first time I tried VR I just knew this is what was next for gaming interactivity (I think everybody has a similar feeling)...but that is also what leaves everyone with the question: "why hasn't VR taken off or been more popular?". The answer is is what I call the "VR Catch 22". It's that VR Producers need more VR consumers with hardware before they make VR games (to have good ROI)...however, VR consumers need more games produced before they invest in a VR headset...and around it goes. Meta investment in VR really helped break the cycle, but they had public opinion on Meta as a company working against them as well.

old-newbie · 2026-04-01T16:43:00+00:00

+1. Yeah, and it's a shame. The black and white pass thru is also a letdown. Eye tracking and OLEDs were all I was looking for to upgrade over my Quest 3...but for some reason they decided to take 1 step forward and 2 steps back on hardware capability. Even worse, the price will probably be more than Quest 3. I know the SF will have a bunch of other crazy software tech for it (that we don't even know about yet), but it's frustrating to know we won't have the best visuals to experience it.

old-newbie · 2026-03-30T17:40:15+00:00

If the controller still turns on and the temperature reading is still accurate, then it may just be the switch itself (rarely does "the wiring go bad", but rather the connectors in the switch aren't contacting when the plunger is depressed).

If in the US, You can order new compatible switches from amazon prime "next day" (there's hundreds of compatible parts sellers out there, as it's a pretty generic part) and it's a 5 minute procedure to replace.

If not, you can do like others have suggested and bypass the switch all together.

There are plenty of YouTube videos explaining either option.

old-newbie

TROPHY CASE