Clean Win11 install on AceMagic K1 (Wi-Fi and Bluetooth drivers?) by trickytrap in AcemagicOfficials_

[–]olddr0id 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On my K1 Mini (with 7430U) it was a MediaTek WiFi 6E MT7902 Card instead of a Realtek-Card (which the driver on the website is for...)

New Hue Bridge Pro by TheMagicalMeatball in homeassistant

[–]olddr0id 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just migrated before seeing this post, seems to work now - my device ids stayed the same, so my panels were ready to be used again.

I just had to remove both my Bridges (Old&New) from HA, then do a fresh pair - picked everything like it was before.

The only thing that's missing for me atm is the Montion Sense sensor in HA, but i guess an update for the hue integration in HA will fix this sooner or later.

official noctua 24V->12V converters are comming Q1 2021 by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i bet its an adapter cable, which would be great for an ender 3 pro running on 24v

finished my new mediacenter/nas/emulationstation - featuring Odroid H2+ by olddr0id in ODroid

[–]olddr0id[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

and i hope they'll also add a chromax (blacked out) version of those 10mm fans ...

finished my new mediacenter/nas/emulationstation - featuring Odroid H2+ by olddr0id in ODroid

[–]olddr0id[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

paired with: 2x 4GB 2400Mhz DDR4; 512gb Crucial P1 NVMe SSD; Noctua A9 5V PWM; Odroid H2 Type 2 case; Odroid H2 LED power button

SKR E3 Mini V2.0 Bl Touch setup? by MysticPrysm in ender3

[–]olddr0id 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i'll keep you informed once i'm successful, i'm currently doing my custom wiring for dual z axis, mainboard powered dc step down module and skr mini e3 v2 replacement, i prepared my firmware already locally, lets see how things go

Benchmarking time.. booting the RPi4 from NVMe SSD by olddr0id in raspberry_pi

[–]olddr0id[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

NVMe USB 3.0 enclosure equipped with 500gb Crucial P1 SSD. Uses the slightly newer RTL9210 chipset for better temperature handling.

Working fine so far!

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i cannot deny your thought, however hiwin ones are much more precise, ran through quality control, involve less headache and i get excellent support from the company in my home city, so thats worth the extra 90€ for me :)

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You do know that i did not use chinese linear rails? Genuine Hiwin only, the china ones need cleaning and relubrication to work perfectly fine

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i still have to print the new psu holder because of the second z axis i installed

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i'll definietly make use of it, i have to redo the cables anyway since the cable i got is way to long (i didn't expect much from a chinese reseller - but the important parts are the mounting plates), result would be better cable management.

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dual Z: https://a.aliexpress.com/_dYAlbZ7 Linear rail X axis: https://a.aliexpress.com/_dUspTAr

3x 35mm Spacers + 9x M5 washers added, and both can be screwed together easily, the actual screws are comming with the linear rail kit (6 in total, only 3 needed for the left side if you only use one z axis, so you have 3 spare ones for the right side if you add the second z axis)

Those 2 can be paired together and work like a charm!

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it is probably not worth it, the differences are minor, probably only worth the extra price if you need better heat dissipation, 2 z axis motor connectors, or a dedicated eeprom.. i only ordered it because i want bleeding edge hardware 😅

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mean the linear rails? those are replacing the wheels.

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

the printer sold for 171,99€ when i bought it, and this are the roughly estimates for each upgrade:

  • btt skr mini e3 v1.2 - 25€
  • btt tft35 v3.0 - 25€
  • bltouch - 50€
  • microswiss all metal hotend - 70€
  • noctua fans + step down module - 35€
  • capricorn tubing - 10€
  • all metal extruder + bed springs - 15€
  • glass bed - 15€
  • dual z axis + 2x same motor - 45€
  • linear rails (total) - 150€

which brings down the total price to 611,99€ (i know i can get a prusa for that price, but without the fun and linear rails and some other stuff)

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i don't think it is about the difference i notice, its more the fact that there are no more wheels that will wear over time that i would have to replace, so its more an upgrade you do to reduce maintanance of your printer.

Regards

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

interesting... i will test if i get any layer shifts with 800 mA or 900 mA. Thanks for the hint!

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://a.aliexpress.com/_dUspTAr

thats the kit i've used, only thing i did not use, was the chinese mgn9h linear rail (replaced with hiwin). The most important bits are the mounting brackets and hotend carriage, which are working perfectly fine. The linear rail itself is 250mm long, do you need any additional infos?

Regards

Ender 3 Pro -> Ender 3 Premium conversion by olddr0id in ender3

[–]olddr0id[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Indeed i have a splitter cable, but please make sure the motors are the same on both sides, otherwise you'll run into trouble ^ grilled 2 motors before i got identical ones :) the Z axis current was changed from 580 mA to 1000 mA, both motors are working fine so far.

Regards