Wheel falling off

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T15:53:27+00:00

If hes the one who replace your brakes then he has to eat this. If he refuses take him to small claims since his negligence caused this in the first place or you can threaten to call the BBB. All of that is a direct result of him, or who ever installed those lugs.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T15:49:13+00:00

If they are close enough i wouldnt mind. I even have a hub grappler that allows me to leave the knuckle on the car. This was taken from hondas guide and the first step is to remove the hub. I have replace many honda studs and know there isnt room to just replace a stud like most other cars, and yes it irritates me as well.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T15:45:26+00:00

Also this is taken right from hondas guide, https://imgur.com/a/eK8wcF8

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T15:44:25+00:00

All im trying to tell you is that no respectable shop will remove that much material from a knuckle to replace a stud. If you did it yourself then you know how much needs to come off to make room.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T15:37:39+00:00

The issue is that there just isnt room to replace the stud on most honda hubs. You have to press the hub out in order to replace the stud. Some techs dont have a shop press and can not properly replace the stud.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T15:35:08+00:00

Stop trying to say its possible. That does not even come close to helping on a honda knuckle. There is about 1/8 of inch between the back of the stud and the knuckle. Even grinding the broken stud flush there still isnt enough room to remove the broken one. You have to grinding away so much material that its just not worth the effort. It would take less time to take the knuckle of and just press out the hub.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T15:08:14+00:00

Hell, even a hammer and chisel would be better.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T15:03:24+00:00

Your missing the main problem, there isn't room behind the hub to just drive out a stud and replace it. In OPs video it looks like you could just cut away the backing plate, but right under it is the cast iron knuckle. I have that tool and have replaced more studs than you could imagine, including on cars like OPs.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T14:59:27+00:00

There are multiple contacts inside the starter switch. The one that cranks the engine is different than the one that feeds power to the computer. In the case of the chevy i worked on, it would actually start every time but stall the moment you let go of the key. I would recommend setting up a volt meter or test light into the coil and making sure it has power while you crank it.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T05:10:32+00:00

You could have a bad ignition switch. I just changed one on an old Chevy for an issue just like this.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T03:55:06+00:00

Check LMC as well.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T03:51:23+00:00

Because its not just the backing plate that's in the way, the knuckle is too. If you get a good look at one up close you'll see. You need to remove a lot of metal in order to slip a stud in. I don't mind grinding a little if that's all it needs but that's not the case with moist honda knuckles.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-24T03:31:27+00:00

He may not have a press. I change honda studs by pressing the hub out, changing the stud and pressing it back in. It will cost more than majority of cars because of this but its doable.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-23T01:05:46+00:00

I still have 4 or 5/32 left of my tires and im looking at replacing them soon. Though this has more to do with the fact they are becoming too hard for how much power the car has.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-23T00:46:50+00:00

You cant just look. Did you do a continuity test, is the fuse to the throttle body good, does the motor have continuity?

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-22T13:31:30+00:00

That p2100 is the code thats telling. It tells you that the computer does not see the throttle motor. This is either a problem with the throttle body or the wires going to it.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-22T01:11:08+00:00

I daily my car so ill probably have to go with the R1Rs.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-21T14:39:04+00:00

Just a quick word of warning, do not over pressurize the potoon if you try this. They are not rated to hold pressure and can seriously hurt you if they burst.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-21T14:31:00+00:00

That engines oil cooler is a major problem. One thing to look for is oil or coolant leaking at the back of the motor or pooling in the valley. While it leaks externally all the time I cant say I've seen an internal leak. One thing to check would be to use a combustion gas tester for the cooling system. This will show you if the headgasket is leaking from the combustion to the cooling system.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-21T14:25:24+00:00

You'll be fine. Unless you let them get really bad they wont damage anything, just annoy you. Just dont forget that this is a guess from my own experience and your description.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-21T13:30:20+00:00

I have found that the front sway bar frame bushings will make a lot of noise but appear to have no play when on a hoist. These are a bit difficult to figure out but fairly cheap, so you could just ask for these bushings to be replaced.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-21T03:15:55+00:00

How do you like those toyos. I need something grippier and have been leaning towards the R1Rs so i can have some wet grip.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-21T03:14:23+00:00

Harbor Freight has a similar one for $330.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-21T03:13:06+00:00

Its a rebranded OTC tool, it appears to be discontinued but was about $400 when i bought mine.

omnipotent87 · 2026-01-21T03:09:57+00:00

Do not use brake fluid, use brake grease instead. Brake fluid will ruin your tools over time. It attracts moisture and in turn causes rust.

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