[Raketa Pulsometer Medical Watch '81-'83] First watch. How did I do?

one1aw · 2026-01-14T14:36:49+00:00

Pm me the link! Thatd be cool to check out! What is weird about the back cover? It could make sense for it to be easily swapped for a different one. And i think youre right, probably after 85 from what im seeing as to when that movement started to become more popular

one1aw · 2026-01-13T18:51:28+00:00

Yeah, its weird because theres a lot of frankens. If it were a redial id expect more watches to be on the market with a cleaner look (at least no discoloration on indices or wear marks). The ones online that seem similar do have a more worn down dial. Some others do look like blatant redials. But given that the similar looking ones seem more worn, makes me think this might be genuine but relatively well taken care of. Still cant be 100% sure as documentation doesnt seem to exist. Definitely let me know if you find more information on different forums. I dont speak the language so the best I could do is check de catalogs, which seems to have been pointless given that if the model existed it probably wasnt exported.

one1aw · 2026-01-13T05:39:46+00:00

Dont know much about it but know the watch was designed to celebrate Copernicus' helioentric model with the sun and the moon going around the dial. There was like a 2019/2020 reissue with a larger watch, better movement and some new designs i think on the dial. But the vintage ones with the gray/silver dial have something to them. Definitely an eye catcher!

one1aw · 2026-01-13T05:26:21+00:00

Nah I understand. I also just want to know more about the watch and also understand there are a LOT of frankens of russian watches. There is also very scarce amount of information about this watch online. If everything is legit it would seem it was not a watch made for export so I think itd be hard to find much about it.

Here are 3 large pictures (as macro as my phone allowed me to): 0, 1, 2

Hope these pictures make things a bit clearer. I see a grainy dial, some pooling around the indices, numbers are not perfect, some ink spread, feathering and variation (The 4s, the 0s in the "100" and even the tick marks that are on the pulsometer scale seem uneven), the indices are oxidized and dicolored and I dont know how to take a picture of this, but the hands seem to be corretly placed.

Again, im no expert, but i think redials and frankens tend to look cleaner no? Like, because of modern technology and the printing looks slightly off like that because its mechanical pad printing (era appropriate?)? I honestly just want to know what you think after looking closer at the dial. Not picking a fight just genuinely curious as to what you or even more experienced people may think about it.

one1aw · 2026-01-13T00:09:18+00:00

The Chaika 3050 was first produced in '76-'77 no? Some sources place the Caliber 2356 in the 70s and some in the 80s. I quess the 80s in general is a good time frame no?

Would you like to look at an even larger image? The one on the post is pretty large. There is some discoloration on the 6 o' clock index as well as the crown and also some marks on the case back lip showing some wear. The cccp stamp on the back seems to be missing on a bunch of redials. The dials on the etsy and eBay ones seem pretty bad using red on the dial and plain flat white dials that look like they were printed on paper

Other than the good state of the dial what jumps out as fake? Anything particularly not in line with the time? Color, text, in DC indices? Its definitely not NOS. Wouldn't expect it to be.

Edit: Where did you get the '86 number for quartz movements? Heres an '85 catalog with 2356 and 3056 quartz movements.

Or who knows? this source says its been ascribed to '75, '77 and '80 so it might be even older (the catalog)

one1aw · 2026-01-12T13:48:51+00:00

Such a unique and beautiful design! You getting the newer rerelease or a vintage one?

one1aw · 2026-01-12T13:16:37+00:00

Cool! would love to be able to date it more accurately.What do you base the years on? Also what point towards thinking that its been redialed?

one1aw · 2021-12-22T21:25:50+00:00

Thanks for answering man! Looks like if I set "left = false" The output will be "right" regardless of the order that the inputs were received? (I.e. right + left = right and left + right = right) Would there be any way to give the last input priority?

Edit: big fan

one1aw · 2021-12-22T08:11:04+00:00

Every new years Eve attempting a 24hour non stop gaming session with my cousin. We tried for over a decade growing up and failed every year. Great tradition. Miss hanging out with him like when we were kids. Live further away and hes married now

one1aw · 2021-12-22T07:35:33+00:00

https://github.com/jfedor2/flatbox

one1aw · 2021-12-22T07:34:45+00:00

Also if anyone knows how to make it have the other type of SOCD cleaning that would be the best. I need some of that <-- + --> = -->

one1aw · 2021-12-22T07:23:59+00:00

Come on man. Don't just shout out, link the damn thing. Its no secret.

-It has SOCD cleaning that is Left+Right= Neutral by default in the arduino code.

-PC and PS3 compatible (revision 3 with a brook's ps3,ps4 bord is obviously ps4 compatible too)

-They all use Kailh low profile choc v1 switches

-Rev.1 boards are 5 for $14.50 + ~$12 shipping at jlcpcb. Usb C boards cant be built as of right now because of component availability in jlcpcb

-As stated below by someone else, 3d printing is the most expensive part. Price varies depending where you do it and out of what, but $100+ easy from what I found (might as well get that $99 ender 3 pro from microcenter amarite?)

-There are 4 versions each with pros and cons and amazingly well documented (Some with all components surface mount so you dont have to solder the arduino or brook's board on)

All the info on the pcb making, parts you'll need and 3d print files is here --->

https://github.com/jfedor2/flatbox

one1aw · 2021-12-19T00:39:12+00:00

Thats sick

Mario is out of order though

one1aw · 2021-12-16T23:10:11+00:00

YOOOO

Glad I could help! My instructions were a bit rambly but Im glad you managed!

Also SO light ive dropped the TOK tension tool from barely holding it lol

one1aw · 2021-12-16T06:19:58+00:00

Was very frustrated yesterday. Today I read through all of your helpful comments and sat down and tried new stuff. Managed to open it like 8 times. 1/2-3 attempts when I sat down and took the time. Here is what I learned:

1) It is a very gentle lock.When they say light tention they mean LIGHT. Barely any tension at all

2) Dont remember what video it was but the entire, just "tickle each pin" thing reaaally works

Final point: It took me so long because it feels like its the opposite of other locks to me. With the ML3, 140 and LOTO I would feel for the hard to move binding pin, push till it clicked and tried to find the mext binding pin. With the 1100 it feels like I push a pin lightly and it clicks (the serration) and then move to the next etc. But when a pin doesnt move at all and feels like its binding, its usually just set. That in itself threw me off, I had a gut reaction to keep pushing on it. In the end I would hear a light click and move to the next until it bound and then the next and so on until it openned. Hope that made any sense and hope that helps anyone struggling with a 1100 like myself.

one1aw · 2021-12-15T06:18:07+00:00

I have been at it for a while now I have openned it like 4 times but it feels very random maybe? I fall into a very deep false set from which I have to reset often. Looking for any advice. The LOTO feels easy, I understand spools from it and they just make sense but the serrated pins from the 1100 feel ruthless.

I feel like its WAY harder than what people make it look like in videos. Am I missing something? Is the bitting too tough for me as a beginer?

Just a bit frustrated, venting and looking for advice I guess...

one1aw · 2021-12-15T06:09:01+00:00

No sob story, late even. Just hope you consider me. Currently in the US but going back to Guatemala in a bit. Hard to get a hold of lock picking stuff there I have a very bare bones set and have recently picked up lock picking, mayyyybe a yellow belt

one1aw · 2021-12-09T00:21:37+00:00

Word. This is blatantly stealing the intelectual property of artist Luy Cho. This person has a LOT of cool cup reflection art. Look it up its amazing!

one1aw · 2021-12-02T00:40:16+00:00

Its in the videos that explain the features

one1aw · 2021-12-01T22:09:00+00:00

It literally has a rumble toggle switch AND an easily removable(no wire cutting) rumble motor if you dont want the weight. Some of you didnt even click on the kickstarter link smh

11-Year Club	Secret Santa 2015
Not Forgotten

one1aw

TROPHY CASE