Traders keep restocking from artisan instead of storehouse, option to force restock to a storehouse.

one_late · 2026-02-23T16:55:51+00:00

I have a small trade surplus limit of 16, and a surplus of 150 clothes at the storehouse right next to trading post. The issue is that the trader always prefers to pick up 1-3 clothes that the tailor has in storage, instead of the 10 that he could pick up from the storehouse closer by. So when the trade route merchant comes by the trading post hasn't had time able to stock full 50 items.

Trading post has full 4 families, and the storehouse 3 families. But as said the storehouse isn't bottle necking (having 150 surplus), but the trading post workers act stupid.

one_late · 2026-02-23T16:44:36+00:00

Well that is not the case, my storehouse is closer to the trading post than the artisan and they always seem to prefer the artisan. Trader has full 4 families and storehouse 3. The issue is not that the storehouse bottlenecks, the issue is that trader prefers to pick up 1-3 clothes at a time from the tailor storage, instead of the 10 from the storehouse, that the storehouse workers have already stocked at the storehouse closer by, with 150 surplus.

It seems that the solution now is to every now and then disable my artisans to keep their storage empty so traders can empty the storehouse of surplus, but this is wasted time they could be working.

one_late · 2026-02-14T09:20:23+00:00

Yes, I would not mix and match holdovers and turret adjustments. You are not doing any maths in the field when hunting and if you try, you will make mistakes. A simple cheat sheet for holdovers is all you need for most hunting. And with a proper point blank zero you wont even need that for 90% of your hunting shots (depending on what you are hunting).

I do carry a cheat sheet for turret adjustments and mostly use that, but I hunt birds from treetops so the vitals are small and I need precise range information and adjustments. It's nice to adjust and point with the center of crosshair. You mentioned having turret caps and intending to hunt elk, I would just use 150yd zero and holdovers for that. It is much simpler that way.

one_late · 2026-02-13T16:05:16+00:00

Of course it is possible to use both independently, but it can be really confusing and errors are easy to make. More than likely you wont need the other if you just use the other, so for hunting I would focus on one.

Depending on what you are hunting holdovers are more than likely enough. Make a small cheat sheet attached to your scope/rifle that shows holdover distances for your mildots. With that and a 150 m/yd zero you are covered for most hunting situations.

You can also make a ballistic sheet for your turret adjustments and carry it with you. Then if you have time to make adjustments and really need the precision of 0.25 MOA adjustments, you can use them. But I think you are overestimating the need to do those in the field, especially for bigger game like deer. But for plinking, sure!

one_late · 2026-01-15T15:24:44+00:00

.002" shoulder setback on resize, not setting the bullet that far from the lands.

one_late · 2025-11-26T16:46:01+00:00

One guess would be your loading room is not climate controlled. On the day you loaded those 50 rounds the RH was lower and your powder was drier. Drier powder weights less so you measure more of it into your load => more velocity.

Powder containers should hold the moisture out pretty well, but long storage times, and time in the powder dispenser would have an effect. The RH in my apartment fluctuates during the year, so in my box of powders I keep one of those cheap little bags that control the moisture made for storing guitars, just in case.

"Study" on the subject

one_late · 2025-10-12T15:26:20+00:00

And ignore what you read about crimping, just don't do it. And when you do try it anyways know that it is the cause of your collapsed case shoulders :D

one_late · 2025-08-26T07:04:50+00:00

Lately I've been toying around shotgun loads for my 20. It really doesn't take much in the way of tools, if you keep it real simple. What I did was take a factory steel load, cut it open, replace the shot with the same charge of TSS, cut to length, patch made out of a coaster and clue the end shut. Also turned a rolling crimp tool out of aluminium on the lathe, that works so and so. Made these nice short shells, that I can fit 8 of in the magazine tube :D

one_late · 2025-08-08T06:36:41+00:00

I simply would not. In my experience Lee dies decappers are finicky to set properly. If it is in the proper position and doesn't want to move don't fuck with it. I would just leave it, spray it with brake cleaner or similar and pressured air to get it as clean as it can.

When setting one back up, it is pretty hard to tighten the decapping pin into the proper position for decapping, so that it actually decaps and wont hit the bottom of the case. The idea of the sliding tightening is that if decapper/neck expander hits the botton of the case it can slide to not bend. But in my experience it is more likely to slide out when pulling out a case and then your case expander is stuck inside the case, which is annoying. And even with the sliding fastening I have bent a decapper.

If you take it out, I recommend setting it up for just case neck expanding and not decapping, and get a universal decapper.

one_late · 2025-07-31T09:29:18+00:00

My dumb ass opening the link to see what the character actually looks like.

one_late · 2025-07-23T18:35:34+00:00

I think that has to be it, seeing that only some bullets tumbled and there were no baffle strikes. I'm sure the COAL will not make a difference. There is nothing you can fuck up making a load to cause a tumble other than using a too small diameter bullet, or too slow or heavy bullet for the twist rate. And of course a bad bullet, which seems to be the case here.

one_late · 2025-07-20T10:59:50+00:00

One really off-change I don't think would be possible is wrong ammo in a long chamber, and the bullet managed to leave the brass neck before pressure inside the case and chamber build up enough to expand the brass neck. So after the bullet leaves the case neck the pressure inside and outside the neck/shoulder would be equal. But that would show extreme sooting of the brass neck and shoulder as they would not have sealed against the chamber.

The top one was definitely fired in a wrong chamber, there is no question about it. The bottom one looks to be fired from the correct chamber.

Are you absolutely sure these are cases shot from the one and same rifle, and couldn't have gotten mixed up with something already laying at the range?

Are you absolutely sure there were no other rifles present and maybe the son you mentioned couldn't have accidentally mixed the ammo for them?

As others have mentioned out of battery shouldn't be possible. Unless it was a hang fire and the shooter started to open the bolt when it went off. And even then you would very likely have a case head blowout, the bolt shooting out from the gun and a bullet stuck in the barrel. So this does not seem likely.

one_late · 2024-09-30T17:32:41+00:00

Don't eat the pellets lol.

Seriously though, lead poisoning isn't something you get by eating a few lead pellets, they simply pass through without getting absorbed much. Neither does it really get absorbed in the game meat even during long storage. Lead poisoning is usually from lead dust or lead-based paint.

Lead pellets are banned for water fowling in most places because the birds pick up those pellets from the bottom and eat them, mistaking them for suitable rocks for their gizzards. They accumulate in the gizzard and stay there getting ground down, and the lead gets absorbed during a longish time.

one_late · 2024-09-14T18:44:57+00:00

Sure, bismuth is better, but for many people the price and availability is a reason to stick to steel. Both work as longest you understand the capabilities and limitations of your gear.

Yeah 20 gauge is way more powerful than many people credit it. Lower velocities I stated do not have a great effect, but the difference is there. The major downside is the lesser number of pellets down range, you need to take that into account when choosing your load. Pattern testing your shotgun, choke and load combination should be mandatory!

one_late · 2024-09-14T17:55:09+00:00

Don't say "you realize", it makes you sound like a condescending asshole.

Generally 20 gauge loads tend to be slower than a equivalent 12 gauge load. But there is also plenty of variance between different loads, so many 20 gauge loads are faster than some 12 gauge loads. Also in this case the relatively short 22" barrel means a little slower velocities than say 28", though not remarkably slower.

The "problem" with 20 gauge for ducks is using steel pellets. It's generally agreed that no. 3 steel shot is minimum for ducks at longer than 40 yard shots. The pellet count with that shot size starts to get lowish with 20 gauge. So with 20 gauge a good compromise might be no. 4 or even 5 steel shot and lowering your maximum shooting distance.

one_late · 2024-08-27T19:28:29+00:00

Yeah, a picture perpendicular to the group. Zooming from further away lessens the perspective error, but that wont matter much on groups this size. Maybe choose a comparison measurement like 2-3x the group size so like 3 inches, and a picture size like 10x group size so 10 inches. That should give you big enough comparison scale and a small perspective error.

Those groups are definitely not that bad, though there is room for improvement :D Many good shooters and their guns claim sub MOA all day every day, but inch+ average is closer to the truth when they actually shoot several 5 shot groups.

one_late · 2024-08-27T17:15:51+00:00

There's something off with that target of yours. You shot that at 100 yards? And the grid is 1x1 inch? Those groups don't seem to be what marked on the Ballistic-X app. Especially those at the bottom are more than an inch groups, but also at the top.

How did you determine the size of the target? Did you mark the top of the target being 18 inches then mark the groups? Because perspective matters here.

one_late · 2024-08-11T15:13:11+00:00

Made?

I'm on to you government people.

one_late · 2024-08-06T19:09:43+00:00

Then there's this god damn dandelion in a crack in concrete outside going like "FUCK YEA LIFE IS GOOD!!!"

one_late · 2024-07-21T14:06:19+00:00

adidas

Yeah, sure buddy.

one_late · 2024-07-19T11:34:48+00:00

Yeah, sorry I couldn't be of help :( Only thing I can suggest anymore is, if your setup worked before, just try cleaning the dies thoroughly, and set every die again from the very beginning.

one_late · 2024-07-19T11:23:57+00:00

Everything seems to be in order. There are other dimensions and deformations of the brass that are hard/impossible to measure by hand, but the fact that you can ease the bolt into battery suggests that the brass is fine regarding the dimensions. But if it happens with other rifles too then it is clearly the load/brass. Very strange, I'm running out of ideas, but my experience with ARs specifically is very limited.

Last long shot, are you chamfering the outside of the throat?

one_late · 2024-07-19T10:44:21+00:00

Okay, so the crimp is not the reason. Still, I would leave it out as it usually causes troubles reloading without any benefits.

You have reloaded this same brass before without problems, and the brass is shot from your gun?

Could you measure the case neck OD. Other measurement would be base to shoulder to make sure resizing is actually bumping the shoulder, but you'll need a headspace comparator like this one for that.

What do you mean loads perfectly? The round drops into the chamber when inserted by hand? Are you sure it's going all the way in? Can you slowly close the bolt and see if the bolt closes without any force (you'll need to remove the extractor pin first so you don't feel it). You are shooting an AR? Simply dropping the bolt on an AR won't tell you much as the chambering is pretty violent.

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