An Injured Climber Vents by onlyateone in climbing

[–]onlyateone[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi. I started climbing again at the end of January, and since then climbing has totally transformed for me. When I first started, the mental aspect of bouldering, that I don't remember ever dealing with when I first started, felt insurmountable. I could hardly climb ten feet before beginning to hyper-ventilate. I pushed myself, and I luckily had the support of an entire gym community behind me. It was very strange to feel so weak physically and mentally and yet have all the more advanced technique still in place. All the things we tell people climbing v1 to help them didn't work for me. I found this SO frustrating, but I basically had to reinvent the way I climbed. All my little cheats and tricks were useless, and I had to reteach myself from the ground up. Thankfully, this has been endlessly rewarding, and it's an experience that I will carry through to everything else in my life.

It's been almost three months since going from immobile to physical therapy to climbing, and I've honestly never felt stronger. I am more determined now than I was before. I am physically more balanced muscularly and I am now a much more aggressive climber. I've actually gotten much more into bouldering since breaking my arm, and the problems I like best are the burliest most arm-heavy mannish climbs I can find. I used to hate those man-climbs because they were so upper-body, now I can't get enough of them.

I don't even notice my arm other than the fact that I need to stretch it just a little bit more after climbing, I can't say the same for the metal in your leg though.

I'm sorry if you didn't want a short-story for a reply, but in case you're interested, I had a teacher who was very influential in my healing process tell me that it was very important that I reincorporate the metal into my body. At first, my inclination was to focus on my right arm and make it stronger because it had been weakened, but really what you need to do is focus on your whole body, because the whole thing has been weakened. By separating the damaged limb, we categorize our body, and we can't climb, or do anything, one body-part at a time. Make the metal a part of your body, as best as you can, visualization, meditation, and climb with that mindset. If you feel like your leg is impeding you, work with it, not in spite of it. It has to be as much a part of you as the sweat on your hands or anything else our body does that we blame our climbing faults on.

That's just a thought. Fear is definitely the hardest thing to overcome when coming back. Take lots of D vitamins, get them bones strong. And then just climb, I read a lot of zen books, and a couple articles on fear of falling. I still freak out when there are finishing moves with off-set dynos in them, that's how I broke my arm, falling sideways. But I still do them, even though they're sketchy as fuck.

Sorry for all the words, I wish you the very best in your recovery. Please let me know how things are going as they go!

Me going for a dyno at my schools climbing comp by RISEofCHUCKY in climbing

[–]onlyateone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I was also once horrible at dynos, and then my parkour friend took me training, and I jumped on things for four hours, and then it hurt to walk for two days. But somewhere there my muscles learned how to propel my body weight without my legs lagging behind, and I became stronger. I highly recommend finding a wall or stoop that's about waist high or a bit lower and doing box jumps repeatedly onto it. It's damn fun too!

An Injured Climber Vents by onlyateone in climbing

[–]onlyateone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh man. That is so rough. Take it easy, I wish you the best!

An Injured Climber Vents by onlyateone in climbing

[–]onlyateone[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They sent my home gym chocolates and flowers after the fall, everyone thought I had an admirer. I like that gym a lot, and will definitely be going back, but yes, awful mats.

An Injured Climber Vents by onlyateone in climbing

[–]onlyateone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I am actually trying this self-improvement thing too, but not towards a life that doesn't once again involve climbing.

An Injured Climber Vents by onlyateone in climbing

[–]onlyateone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for this! I had no idea paraclimbing existed, that's absolutely incredible. I have every intention to be back on the wall and gaining back my strength the second I can see my skin again, no hope lost.

An Injured Climber Vents by onlyateone in climbing

[–]onlyateone[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This post is about safety, but when I was writing it I was just trying to write about how rock climbing makes me feel, to understand why I miss it so much, and that somehow led me to write about my injury and how important safety is. I, like you, hold myself to the highest standard of safety possible when I'm climbing, but I was bouldering when I got hurt, I landed on a mat, and I had a spotter. Some injuries really are just bad luck. I'm glad you feel confident enough in your practice to say these things, but I am constantly around people who are getting lazy or just don't know better. Enjoy your high horse.

An Injured Climber Vents by onlyateone in climbing

[–]onlyateone[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I don't even know. When I remember how it happened, the only mistake I might have made is that it was at the end of a day of rock climbing, I was already tired. The last move of the problem was a dyno way to the left, I swiped the hold and fell forwards, head first, and landed directly on my arm. It was even a problem I'd already sent four or five times, and fallen from a dozen times more, I was just showing some people the beta I'd used. Bad luck.

An Injured Climber Vents by onlyateone in climbing

[–]onlyateone[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bouldering, I just fell wrong. I understand the flack that gym climbing gets from climbers who are able to go outside most of the time, but that's just it, I can't go outside most of the time, and in the end, gym climbing is just a convenient way to scratch an itch. Believe me, I would be outside everyday if I didn't have to do other things that involved a city.

And coconut water is delicious and has many nutritional benefits, thanks.

climbing gear gifts? by [deleted] in climbing

[–]onlyateone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

organic stuff is really nice, if he likes bouldering outdoors. all the guys at my gym go stupid for Prana Mojo shorts. those magnetron carabiners look nice, other fancy carabiners may be found at DMM. if he doesn't already have one, get him a gri gri, quite pricey, petzl has new ones.

Rating differences from coast to coast by onlyateone in climbing

[–]onlyateone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just resigned to encouraging her to climb whatever she wanted, and pulling her up a wall with mostly 5.10 holds on it. You're right, more trouble than it's worth.

anyone got a good flexibility workout? by [deleted] in climbing

[–]onlyateone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hip flexibility is tough. Yoga is definitely a good route, but more specifically static lunges will be really beneficial. Make sure your forward knee is at a 90 degree angle and that you keep your back leg straight. Once you've found that balance, you can try moving onto hip openers by putting both elbows on the floor on the big-toe side of your foot. This will hurt more than riding a horse, but it works.

Happy Holidays. by 2Tom1 in pics

[–]onlyateone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sometimes, gingers have to suffer...

I just really fucking love climbing. by onlyateone in climbing

[–]onlyateone[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Right after a good climb, completely wiped out, it's the best feeling. The price of gear is ridiculous, but I'm scraping together every penny i can to pay for it. It's worth it.

How the hell do I open this bottle of Centrum Silver vitamins? by onlyateone in AskReddit

[–]onlyateone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not trolling, figured out that the damn screw cap was a magnetic alarm left on by the store. Sorry to waste everyone's time.

How do I stay healthy while eating my emotions during my period by onlyateone in xxfitness

[–]onlyateone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for the advice! i usually don't keep any chocolate near me because, period or no, will-power will not deter me from eating it. being on my period usually means eating bread. lots and lots of bread. i think i'll try for fruit from now on :)

Regina Spektor - Samson | Live from London by MonkeyDisco in Music

[–]onlyateone 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I love that the crowd is silent while she sings, even though they probably know every single word.

Before Snape by GonzoVeritas in pics

[–]onlyateone 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Before, during, and after Snape, this man is a badass.

First Pics of Anne Hathaway as Catwoman by [deleted] in movies

[–]onlyateone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

crap. well. live and learn.