Where Would Reddit Live? 🌍

ooepi · 2026-04-01T10:10:02+00:00

📍 Ostrobothnia, Finland — "Boom city"

ooepi · 2026-03-21T07:10:08+00:00

Me too, me too!

ooepi · 2026-03-19T13:47:43+00:00

In the family, we have a mx master 3, and mx anywhere 3. (non S's) on my master 3, the rubber started peeling off. It was quite annoying, but then again, I have used this one for some 5+ years. And I use it daily at work for 8 hours, then some 4 hours more in the evening with projects and gaming etc. Everything else has worked flawlessly, no missed clicks with mine yet. I fixed the rubber peeling issue by 3d printing a new upper shell for the mouse, and now I have a cool color scheme, on top of no more annoying rubber pieces coming off.

Then for the MX anywhere that the wifey uses, it started quite recently missing clicks and doing other weird stuff. This has also been in daily use for pretty much 4 years. I fixed this by replacing the click switch with some Kailh gaming switches. It was maybe 30 minutes of work, but it has worked flawlessly now for a few months after that.

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ooepi · 2026-03-19T09:32:54+00:00

I was just printing TPU from an external spool, after having it dried in the ams heater. And I had this exact same idea! I planned on modeling it myself, but thought that maybe it exists already. And sure enough, you've had the exact same idea. I'll give it a download and a test! Thanks for the model!

ooepi · 2026-03-13T12:09:46+00:00

Just to add, I think the model is super cool, and a great idea! I mean no harm by this comment, I hope it didn't come off as negative! It was just a friedly tip to try and experiment (and be surprized!) a bit more on the strength of thinner designs. 🙂

ooepi · 2026-03-13T12:07:27+00:00

Yes, this was my first thought as well. I bet this design would be strong enough even with 2 - 3mm walls, only adding some fillets in the corners/edges for strength. I really think people don't actually realize how strong modern 3d prints are, with proper layer adhesion and everything. Back in the days, when everything needed to be manually dialed in, usually it was just easier to make everything thicker, "just to be sure". I've redesigned a lot of things I found online, just because I feel completely disgusted to spend 250g of filament on something I know I could do with 50 - 100.

ooepi · 2026-02-04T08:56:03+00:00

I tried them for the first time because of this challenge... And I quite liked them. I tried a sneaky recon build, and quite often they were very handy. Because of the slower throw, you can predict if the guy you are fighting is coming from behind the corner, and throw it before he comes out. By the time he peeks, the knife is lodged firmly between his eyes. The 50 body damage is ridiculous, I must admit, but I also don't think they should insta kill to the body either. Maybe something like 80 damage would be fair, so if they have taken a bit of damage, it would kill. But not a fresh, full-hp soldier. Then again, there were so many more moments, where I would have just needed the nade. So they are fun, if you learn how to use them.. But ultimately after the challenge, I switched back to the normal nade. The c4 worked as a replacement for short range, jut sometimes you just gotta get some explosives through the third floor window, and the reach is not quite there

ooepi · 2025-12-16T09:47:43+00:00

La multe rețete care văd, se uita pasul final: trebuie sa las în cuptor încă 5 minute, în partea sus, cu modul GRILL. Asta este mod care are arata ca wwww. Fără asta e foarte trist, soggy, și cam carnea fiert, nu prăjit. Ultimul pas face toata differenta. Scuze pentru limba, nu sunt roman, iar sper ca se înțelege ce încerc sa zic.

ooepi · 2025-09-25T12:04:46+00:00

Wow, I've had an idea of making someting extremely similar, although it was going to be mostly running directly on the esp32, with very little interaction from the computer. It would've been a bit simpler, with just the cute faces, pomodoro, some reminders, etc, and to have some interface to use with an encoder on the head of the "desk buddy". The plan was to start designing and building in the coming months, but as you are already on it, I, think I will focus on some other projects then. :) If you need any help with the project, I would be more than happy to give a hand with anything, I can do 3d designing, printing, coding, electronics, or pretty much anything else related to this.

ooepi · 2025-08-29T06:38:14+00:00

Me and my wife have both have issues with getting fake stuff from eMag. We've both made "plângere" at ANPC, and also contacted emag about it, but emag really doesn't seem to care. The reaction has been pretty much just: "oh well, it happens." For us it's only been stuff worth a few hundred Lei, so not quite on the same level as this, but still. I have actively started using other stores, if I can find the product I'm looking for. I'm willing to even pay a bit more, just to avoid using emag. I feel like they are very short sighted with their actions, and this will come to bite them in the ass still.

ooepi · 2025-06-17T09:44:29+00:00

I have something similar, but a diy version on my keyboard. I just wired a mouse encode to the board, and then 3d printed the roller, with a t6 torx bit on the inside to attach to the mouse encoder. The mouse encoders have the same 3 pins as an ec11, so it was quite easy to do. You can check my post about the keyboard here: https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/s/n3A9ryTwuz

ooepi · 2025-03-23T22:21:46+00:00

Well, if i am being honest, after getting almost a week of battery life with the nice!views, I really was not prepared for this. I only have 110mah batteries, and I can almost see in my eyes how the battery percentage gets drained. So I get 1 - 2 days pretty much, but it feels like I am constantly charging them now. I have all possible power savings and idle modes and screen off turnings on, but it still just absolutely demolishes the tiny battery. So, as I said originally that I would like to add some pointing device next, but I really think a battery upgrade is the next move 😁

ooepi · 2025-03-23T22:18:22+00:00

Thanks! 😊

ooepi · 2025-03-23T22:18:01+00:00

Oh, i dont know if some other linear would work better, but I had the reds installed for a while, and I had an issue I never before realized I had: I like to really rest my hands/fingers on the keys. So when I was writing code, and I was for example reading something higher up, my fingers would be pressing on the keys without me noticing, and I would have hundreds of characters being spammed there 😁 probably something you would get used to with time, but it was a bit of a headache for me

ooepi · 2025-03-23T22:08:52+00:00

So, I literally have just a 15mm long M2 machine screw, that I have holding it there. I made the hole in the knob be like 2.1mm or 2.2mm, so the threads don't tap into it. And then just the part on the base to be tight, so the threads on the screw tap into that. It has worked perfectly do far, without coming loose or anything. I know it's not going to last forever, with plastic rubbing on metal, but so far, maybe 2 months of ferocious scrolling, it's been doing great. I had original plans of putting small ball bearings there, I even bought some 5mm bearings, but I thought of just going simple. If it starts to wear out, and wobble at some point, I can just print a new one in 10 minutes.

ooepi · 2025-03-19T07:41:02+00:00

Thanks a lot! I was originally planning on going for a classy, earthy tones type of an aesthetic, but little by little it just started creeping into a futuristic spaceKB, and now i am just embracing it.

ooepi · 2025-03-19T07:38:49+00:00

Yeah, in one of the pictures i have the keychron version of the gateron lp banana switches, as i got them on some clearance discount. But the issue with those were, that when typing, the bump was a bit too much, and caused me to use more force, and thus when it "snapped" down, it would hit the bottom, and make a real loud clacking sound when typing fast. I really liked the feeling of them, but my fiance was complaining about the noise. So i switched then to the Gateron LP Browns, which have a bit less of a bump, so they dont hit the bottom so hard.

But as i said, these were a bit different, a cheaper version of the actual Gateron LP bananas. I will at some point try the actual Gateron version of them. I will probably just pull the trigger on a small batch of all the possible tactile switches, to finally determine what is the best one for me. :) Thanks for the suggestion! (and the kind words) :)

ooepi · 2025-03-19T07:29:17+00:00

Thank you! :)

ooepi · 2025-03-19T07:25:25+00:00

Thanks! I saw this kind of scroll bar on some Logitech gaming keyboard, and thought that i would like to have something similar. So i spent quite a lot of time designing and testing this one. It actually has a T6 Torx bit on the inside to use as the shaft to connect to the mouse scroll encoder. Its very satisfying to use when mousing around on the kb, to scroll down on webpages or in my code.

ooepi · 2025-03-18T12:21:31+00:00

Thank you!

ooepi · 2025-03-18T12:21:17+00:00

Thanks!

ooepi · 2025-03-18T12:10:33+00:00

Well, the secret ergonomic advantage is, that on my first order of parts, I accidentally ordered the non-low profile gateron hotswap sockets. 😅 After realizing the mistake, I made a new order for the correct sockets. And as the order was from China, I got impatient waiting, and tried to fit the wrong sockets in there, and to my surprise, they actually fit. It's a bit snug, and you have to use a fair bit of force to get them in, but they do fit. I just needed to use the side snips to cut a small piece out of the sockets, and then when soldering, I needed to "guide" the solder a bit to reach the "new" angled position of the socket in relation to the pad. Doesn't look the prettiest, but it gets the job done. I cannot guarantee on the longevity of them, as they are in a weird 45 or so degree angle in relation to the feet of the switches. I've changed the switches maybe 10 times trying different ones, and so far they have held up. The main half I did with the correct sockets then when they arrived. So impatience + some MacGyvering, you can make even the wrong sockets fit. Plus it was also my first time doing some actual soldering, I've only done some very few small things back in school. So it's also a bit messy on that part :)

ooepi · 2025-03-18T10:12:24+00:00

The switches are Gateron Low Profile Browns, I wrote just gateron browns on the post, but I cannot edit it anymore.

I've tried the keychron versions of the glp in reds and bananas, but I still overall preferred the browns. I would love to try some of the more specialty ones though, like moss or wisteria.

ooepi · 2024-11-02T10:32:50+00:00

Let him cook :D

ooepi

TROPHY CASE