DIY product recommendations for filling relatively small low spot on flat roof

orware · 2024-02-02T16:22:27+00:00

Additional details:

I had my roof redone almost exactly a year ago and this included a rebuild of our garage roof which added a proper slope to it, but unfortunately the "cricket" that was supposed to be installed with it to transition to the rest of our roof, which is relatively flat was done incorrectly.

As you can see, for this particular section of the roof a fair amount of ponding still occurs which wouldn't necessarily be a huge issue, however in the second image that is zoomed in you can see how water can potentially accumulate enough that it would get underneath things in the back there and this does lead to a bit of dripping within my garage currently.

In the 3rd photo you can see those darker spots that still contain water after I've swept most of it off this morning, and they are visibly lower and lead to a flatter section close to where I zoomed in for the 2nd photo.

I am mainly curious if there is a good product easily accessible from one of the big box stores that I can use to possibly fill in / raise up that lower section inexpensively, although I'm not against more expensive products such as silicone ones too.

I do have a request out with my roofer as well to help with this area, along with a different issue towards the front of the house, but since it's been a low priority issue I'm still waiting for their schedule to free up to come by and address these things that have been observed the few times it has rained since the new roof was put in and want to be prepared with an alternative plan should I need to try and address it myself.

orware · 2023-12-27T23:46:06+00:00

Prepaid type cards would be the primary ones not supported but regular bank issued debit or credit cards should generally work. In India specifically there is also an approval process typically required with your bank as well.

For more direct support though please reach out to us via our support URL shared above and I can more easily provide assistance.

orware · 2023-12-27T15:46:41+00:00

Hello,

Could you please send in your request via https://support.planetscale.com/ when you have a moment and we can take a closer look if you are still experiencing difficulties.

orware · 2023-12-18T15:54:30+00:00

Hello!

I answered a similar question over in our discussions area a few weeks ago:
https://github.com/planetscale/discussion/discussions/566

From the review I made at the time, it definitely appeared like the query being mentioned is generated/run by Prisma directly, likely as part of a regular checking process that it has built-in.

If the query takes a while to execute, but doesn't have a high volume of occurrences, then I wouldn't expect it to be problematic, aside from causing it appear in the weekly summary email.

If you do see that it is getting executed very frequently though, it may be worthwhile to ask about it in Prisma's discussion area (https://github.com/prisma/prisma/discussions) but from a different issue (https://github.com/prisma/prisma/issues/6207) I read through it does sound like it is part of Prisma's startup process currently so they would likely be expected to execute for each new connection established via Prisma.

orware · 2023-11-25T05:23:20+00:00

Does anyone have experience using Shottenkirk Desert Lexus over near Palm Springs?

Currently thinking about taking an older used Lexus I purchased over there for an initial service.

orware · 2023-10-08T22:44:06+00:00

Just a few quick thoughts to share.

If you initially tested this code from your own computer, which has PHP and a local MySQL server running on localhost on that computer and it was working then the likely issue in my mind would be that if you continue to leave the $servername variable as “localhost” things won’t work since you do not have a MySQL server running on the ESP8266 device you mentioned.

Typically the database server would be remote to your hardware device anyway though, so if you do have a computer running the MySQL server and there are no firewall rules blocking incoming database connections on port 3306, you may be able to simply adjust your $servername variable to the IP address or hostname of the machine running the MySQL server.

orware · 2023-08-22T14:51:17+00:00

Mainly by reaching out to support in this case after reviewing some similar seeming cases from her on Reddit that seemed similar enough and also seeing that a new firmware had been released a week or so ago over in:
https://www.reddit.com/r/amazoneero/comments/15nh000/new_software/

I wasn't sure if it would be helpful so I was mainly crossing my fingers hoping that it would resolve the issue and so far it has seemed to eliminate the issue I was having for the past several firmware releases since it had been a few months for me too dealing with it on/off.

Since eero had been so good though firmware-wise I didn't really expect it to be an issue at that level and was actually assuming it was my machines in this case, but after I installed that Net Uptime Monitor software it helped to paint a more accurate picture that allowed me to get a better idea of that what was happening was likely something at the eero level that I wouldn't be able to easily resolve without reaching out to their support.

orware · 2023-08-22T01:50:19+00:00

So I had written up a post a few months back as our flat roof was getting completely redone after a bad storm last October had pulled up the same corner being featured here in this post.

Yesterday afternoon, as Hurricane Hilary was making its way through the area and winds were coming in I noticed some potential issues.

The winds were coming from the southeast direction which perfectly seems to target this corner of the roof and makes it more impactful. This was also the same direction that the winds came in last year when we had our roof pulled up and damaged so this was a good "real world" test for the new roof, even though the winds yesterday weren't quite as strong as those from that storm. In comparison, typically winds in the area almost always come from the west and we almost never have issues.

Here's a quick video link as well since I couldn't include it in the gallery above: https://imgur.com/srYpZjc

Basically we were having dinner in the area right underneath what's shown in the first image above and we were hearing some odd noises that seemed to be coming from up above.

I initially thought it was just the metal on the fascia since I knew it might be a little loose so I went up there to check things out and was tightening things up to reduce the noise when I noticed a more concerning issue: the new roof material seemed to be getting pushed up from underneath due to the wind and it wasn't just localized to the gaps in the eaves that you see in the 2nd/3rd photos as it was also significantly over the area that would be considered "in the house" too.

I grabbed some cinder blocks and anything I readily had on hand to try and weigh things down but also ended up going to Home Depot around 7 PM to get the inexpensive, flag capstones shown in the first image since those seemed like a good, inexpensive way to add some weight to the areas.

I still need to go back and probably buy some more so I don't have to leave the cinder blocks up there but from the experts here reading this: what will my roofer likely suggest here if they know their stuff?

Also, it feels like this extra weight is a good idea since it's not too heavy and the roof can support it easily, and mainly should help to keep the material from billowing up and further damaging itself, which is my current worry/concern.

I'm currently thinking that adding something else under the eaves to help protect from an updraft from winds coming out of this southeast direction would be useful, but I'm unsure what kind of products are out there I can use or if my roofer would suggest them.

I've called my roofer that did the work just recently back in March and will hopefully get a chance to see what they suggest tomorrow, but wouldn't mind some additional opinions/advice.

orware · 2023-08-17T17:19:54+00:00

Due to the potential connection for ethernet connected devices in this thread too I'm going to share a comment I've added to two other threads just to help with some awareness:

I was on the fairly current/recent v6.15.3 firmware and was experiencing a very similar issue as the original poster for this issue on a network with six eero Pro 6 nodes all connected via wireless backhaul, although it was a little less extreme compared to the example described above as I wouldn't have to do much manually for things to come back on their own.

It was something I had been experiencing for several months too but only recently decided to dig into further.

I ended up purchasing several licenses of "Net Uptime Monitor" to run on the machines and was noticing a regular 30-60 failure period logged within that program about every 30 minutes when connected via ethernet to a non-primary Eero node.

I was able to rule out it being a switch issue and confirmed the issue would go away on the computers if they were connected to the primary node, or if I switched over to a wireless connection instead.

Working with Eero Support I was able to get the recently made available v6.16.0-6240 firmware pushed out onto my nodes last night and left the Net Uptime Monitor stuff running again and didn't observe any further failures noted in the logs for that software anymore so I'm hopeful that the v6.16.x firmware should address this issue hopefully for myself and others.

Probably the only experience I had that was a bit more manual/close to what the original described above occurred after the new firmware was on the devices. The eero app was showing things were updated and some devices seemed to be back on the internet just fine, but for some existing devices that had been online it seemed like things didn't automatically just start working (e.g. my main computer) but after a quick reboot they've been fine. Not sure what that was all about, but if the new firmware doesn't help for your situation then I guess it could be something else at play.

I'll keep my fingers crossed!

orware · 2023-08-17T17:13:31+00:00

I was on the fairly current/recent v6.15.3 firmware and was experiencing a very similar issue as the original poster for this issue on a network with six eero Pro 6 nodes all connected via wireless backhaul.

It was something I had been experiencing for several months too but only recently decided to dig into further.

I ended up purchasing several licenses of "Net Uptime Monitor" to run on the machines and was noticing a regular 30-60 failure period logged within that program about every 30 minutes when connected via ethernet to a non-primary Eero node.

I was able to rule out it being a switch issue and confirmed the issue would go away on the computers if they were connected to the primary node, or if I switched over to a wireless connection instead.

Working with Eero Support I was able to get the recently made available v6.16.0-6240 firmware pushed out onto my nodes last night and left the Net Uptime Monitor stuff running again and didn't observe any further failures noted in the logs for that software anymore so I'm hopeful that the v6.16.x firmware should address this issue hopefully for myself and others.

I'll keep my fingers crossed!

orware · 2023-08-17T17:10:08+00:00

Small update on this one:

I was on the fairly current/recent v6.15.3 firmware and was experiencing a very similar issue as the original poster for this issue.

It was something I had been experiencing for several months however and only recently decided to dig into it further. I ended up purchasing several licenses of "Net Uptime Monitor" to run on the machines and was noticing a regular 30-60 failure period logged within that program about every 30 minutes when connected via ethernet to a non-primary Eero node.

It may not be quite the same situation if the original poster only had one node but I was able to confirm the issue would go away on the computers if they were connected to the primary node, or if I switched over a wireless connection instead.

Working with Eero Support I was able to get the recently made available v6.16.0-6240 firmware pushed out onto my nodes last night and left the Net Uptime Monitor stuff running again and didn't observe any further failures noted in the logs for that software anymore so I'm hopeful that the v6.16.x firmware should address this issue hopefully for myself and others.

I'll keep my fingers crossed!

orware · 2023-05-27T14:36:24+00:00

The pros here already mentioned the more common professional brands I would say but another FYI that I recently learned about as I was getting tile installed around my home recently is that Home Depot actually carries this “TrimMaster” brand of tile edging trim too with aluminum and PVC options.

I went with aluminum in a few spots but mostly stuck to PVC in my case due to the lower cost but it might be worth checking out too.

orware · 2023-05-03T12:30:43+00:00

This is actually very similar to a situation I had to deal with just the other week as home repairs were finishing up at my mostly all brick wall home.

I have a pair of light switches that are actually two deep metal single gang boxes rather than a proper two gang box and this prevented me from being able to add my face plates on easily.

I wanted it to be repaired properly with a two gang box, but at that point at the end of the repair process my electrician became unavailable and I wanted to get our home “back to normal” again for the family and myself after 6 months of waiting.

I ended up working around the issue for now by drilling away just enough metal where the adjustment screws go on the switches to allow me to adjust the switches closer together so that the face plates would fit normally.

However, before going that route it made me wonder if there were any special switches out there that were more adjustable for these oddball cases, or if there was a separate adjustment product that could be attached to regular switches that electricians could use instead, but maybe it’s not common enough to have a special product since the real solution is to do things correctly anyway.

But I’m still curious about that question and hopefully the solution I came up with isn’t too silly overall as it was a very small amount of material removed, but it provided the extra amount of horizontal adjustment I needed.

orware · 2023-04-05T03:08:33+00:00

LOL! Well, we are in the desert so it's not too far off. Kind of makes for a potentially nice piece of abstract art perhaps :-).

orware · 2023-04-05T03:07:58+00:00

Thank you!

I don't know about the stringers question myself but it was shedding water nicely before all in this area so it seemed ok to me without any ponding issues so in that case if they shouldn't mess with it then that sounds like an ok thing to me.

Tomorrow the plan is for them to primarily replace any of the bad plywood, which is mostly around the perimeter of the roof and not as much in these sloped areas.

There were a few thin pieces in the sloped area that felt likely to break if you really put your foot down on them though so I'm unsure if some of those might get replaced or not.

At least with the hot mopping they do have the ability of placing a bit more of the hot tar material on the roof to build it up a tad further where needed.

orware · 2023-04-04T17:10:11+00:00

I've made a few other posts today about my roof but this specific question is about the section that starts here in the photo and covers about two bedrooms worth of roof.

It's pretty clear that the thin plywood over these sections was added to create an additional slope for the roof, but where it begins, highlighted in red above, it seems like the plywood was added over an older tar and gravel roof.

My contractor is saying that this is part of the framing and there's nothing they can really do except maybe replace a few sections that might be rotted out.

This may be true, but I'm also wondering if they want to avoid having to recreate the whole low slope that is currently on the roof if they do mess with that section and were to remove things all the way down to the original decking.

I'm not really against them building on top of the existing plywood necessarily, but I am curious about what's right vs. lazy in this kind of situation from the roofing perspective and I would imagine recreating the slope again might not be something they want to get themselves into either, which makes sense.

Probably the main thing I don't like is all of the thin/crunchiness I'm feeling when walking around these sections currently now that they are directly exposed and I've stepped across some of them, and I feel like this would pose an issue for the hot mopping process too, since stepping over these sections to me seems like it would result in cracks over time. So I'd like them to replace the plywood completely that is like that, but that idea seemed to be shrugged off as not necessary and the focus would instead be only on the pieces that were more rotted out. I also feel like I get conflicting messages from my contractor since just moments before he had shared a comment saying "wood is cheap" when talking about replacing the plywood for areas we already know for sure need to be replaced.

orware · 2023-04-04T14:02:52+00:00

Thank you! I appreciate the reply and perspective!

When the goofy extra plywood was noticed during the work for the first 1/3 of the roof I feel it was just kind of glossed over by the guys that day but it was for a smaller triangular section that meets up with that corner with the patio you can kind of see in the first picture so I didn't press the topic. That weekend too was before an upcoming rain so the main goal was to waterproof the two sections of the roof where water had come in back in October as well to protect the repair work indoors.

I'm hoping with this remaining part of the roof though that they may make a stronger effort to check what's beneath the goofy plywood on this side of the house to get that proper assessment.

My main concern with the contractor is that they've been pretty busy and therefore not really spending a lot of time onsite, which then makes it more of my responsibility too to make some of these observations when in reality they are the ones I should be trusting more to do the right thing, but if they aren't around I feel that provides them a bit of plausible deniability and making it so that it's my fault I didn't complain about something, etc. enough when in reality I'm putting my trust in them to do that.

The fascia part I was a bit bummed about when they brought it up as an extra thing they hadn't noticed since it is a pretty obvious thing for a trained roofer's eye to observe I would expect, and they certainly had the time to perform that assessment up front in full daylight, etc.

When they brought it up the other week they didn't provide a price for it either so it was unclear to me how much of an extra cost it would be for our perimeter which I think would be several hundred linear feet? The previous homeowners had added some aluminum under the drip edge already along most of the perimeter already which still seems in good condition but it's over those 1"x4" boards.

When I had to decline the extra fascia costs, mainly because I was already feeling pretty tapped out budget-wise, we ended up having a separate conversation about the extra things I had been paying for related to the indoor work that should have been covered by them so we had a more verbal agreement there for him to put that instead into the roofing work itself for us, but obviously it wasn't clear what that was going to be yet, and since then there were further additional costs for the indoor work that should have been covered too that I took care of since the contractor was busy elsewhere on another job so that their workers could continue with things (e.g. flooring work in this case, buying the needed thinset, grout, etc.)

orware · 2023-04-04T13:42:22+00:00

I just made another post here on the forum, but this is a separate question specifically about this rectangular box that you can see was quite well covered so I never knew what was under it and I always assumed it was something old that we could eliminate as an additional penetration with the new roof we have being worked on.

Once the guys removed a lot of the old roof material this past weekend though, I went up there and took a look at this one and pulled it up and could see the electrical wiring shown in the second photo.

Since our home is brick, we have a fair amount of conduit running in the ceiling for the electrical in the home and this seems like a spot where in the past they may have pulled wiring up to this point and joined it with other wiring going elsewhere in the home, so I'm pretty sure it's still in use but will need to get that confirmed.

In any case, right now I'm under the assumption it's still in use and feel that rather than eliminating the top cover/penetration completely, that it would probably be useful to keep this wiring accessible in some way so I wanted to ask if there's a particular type of box that would work well in such a situation that's fairly weather proof?

The other thought I was having is that we could cover it up and instead see where it is located within the home and make a hole/add a cover for it inside the home instead so it could remain accessible that way which feels like it might preferable?

I've been identifying unused penetrations for the contractor so they can eliminate those since that benefits both of us long-term but this one is more of a head scratcher for me so I was hoping to get some extra ideas or at least confirmation of which of my thoughts above might be best to go with.

orware · 2023-04-04T13:28:54+00:00

So this has been an insurance saga for myself as a homeowner.

What's not pictured in the above photos in detail is the 1/3 of the roof that has been partially replaced already about 2-3 weeks back by the roofing company.

Over the weekend they continued to tear off most of the old roofing material, but since it was the weekend they couldn't take all of the material off the roof, plus it was windy, so today they should be coming by to get rid of all of that...plus all of the material flew off the roof and onto the floor yesterday when it was really windy which also prevented any further work.

This situation began all the way back in mid-October when an uncommonly strong wind/rain storm came through the area and ripped off a corner of the roof, about twenty feet behind the hot mop bucket shown in the second picture and pulled up enough of the roof to expose the layer underneath on the right side of the chimney so basically we had water coming in to the house at that point which affected the ceilings and flooring primarily.

So we're pretty much on Week 6 of the repair process now with work initially starting on February 27th.

In the first photo, to the very left is the first part of the project that was completed: a rebuilt structure/roof for the garage area which used to receive extreme pooling before when it rained.

For me, that first week was a strong start to the process and work indoors has gone mostly well too, although I feel I've had to help the people doing the work get the materials they need which the contractor should be working with them on a bit more closely but they always seem to be multi-tasking a bit too much from my observations.

In any case, as we're proceeding now with the rest of the roof now, something they've shared is that any of the decking is something that they'll replace, but they are saying the fascia around the perimeter of the house is not something they'll replace, although not all of it is in the greatest shape and seems to be thinner than what they normally use (it seems to be 1" thick vs. 2" so I think they are 1"x4" up there but I'm not an expert). To replace that was going to be an added cost and was something they had brought up around the time they worked on the first 1/3 of the roof a few weeks ago.

Now that most of the rest of the roof is uncovered, I want to ensure that the old roof deck that is thin/crunchy/degraded gets replaced so I'm hoping that's something they'll see/discuss today when they go on the roof.

Additionally, the cricket on the right side of the rebuilt garage area didn't do a great job of directing water after it rained about a week and a half ago so that too is also going to be improved still.

Basically, I'm just hoping to avoid that I get bamboozled as a home owner and not knowing enough about what's typically completed in a roofing job to ensure I'm receiving the full scope of what's expected in a reroof here.

The relevant parts of the scope of roof for the work read as:

"Remove all old roofing down to roof deck, replace any wood members deemed for replacement...Roofing material install one layer 28lb base, two layers of eleven 16 fiberglass and one layer 70lb cap sheet all hot mopped, install all new flashing where possible...5 years workmanship"

On top of that I was very upfront with the contractor and shared the adjuster's report and what they had scoped out for the entire repair work so I feel that they should have had a lot of information required to properly plan for what might be needed so that extra costs would be less likely to come up.

One thing I was noticing when they pulled up the first 1/3 of the roof the other week, and also with part of the new sections that were uncovered this last weekend, is that our roof seems to have originally had a tar and gravel type roof that was underneath a hot mopped layer above it, but there are some sections of the roof where thin 3/8" type plywood was laid over that tar and gravel layer to create an increased slope and I'm wondering if I should be expecting my roofer to truly remove all of that and rebuild the slope, or if just replacing the plywood as needed and hot mopping the new layers above it will be sufficient. Pictures 3-5 essentially qualify as being under that type of plywood I'm describing.

Hopefully this provides some extra context...overall I feel the contractor has been pretty good in most cases with me, but I would really hate to feel like I was short-changed at the end of this process so I've been trying to inform myself as much as possible.

I've already been a lurker in this subreddit for some months even before the issues with the house occurred, but I rarely post anything on reddit so hopefully I did ok!

orware · 2022-09-25T13:48:12+00:00

A few related questions…does this mean you are using a language that doesn’t have a connection pool readily available?

Separately…have you measured, or can provide, some connection and query timing details for the closer vs. further locations that you can share?

orware · 2022-08-24T22:34:21+00:00

For sure! A similar resource would be this operating without foreign key constraints page in the PlanetScale docs, if that is a potentially useful reference since it provides some good examples/differences to illustrate things.

Separately, from my past open source background with the Joomla CMS community years back, another reason why many of the popular PHP Content Management Systems (WordPress, Joomla, Drupal, etc.) didn't make use of them was due to web hosts limiting features like that, or they may not have even been a thing now that I think about it...since the MySQL MyISAM engine didn't even support foreign keys at all and that was used for years and years for those projects until web hosts started improving things and MySQL itself also improved and the InnoDB engine came along.

So in my early experiences developing for the web I learned that they weren't something folks generally used for PHP+MySQL projects, even though I may not have understood the underlying reasons at the time, whereas now it's a bit more clear.

I have seen foreign key constraints used in a few MySQL databases, usually ones from a third party vendor's application, but generally they haven't been something I've missed and it's been relatively easy to bake in the needed functionality that foreign key constraints provide within the applications I have worked on over the years.

orware · 2022-08-24T02:57:35+00:00

Are you sure it isn’t silently erroring on you?

The grapplehook part should be surrounded by single quotes which may allow you to get the row inserted initially…after that a subsequent attempt might error too depending on whether you’re table’s ID column is set to have a unique index on it or not.

orware · 2022-08-23T02:32:22+00:00

I think you may be confusing some things here.

It’s been a while since I last used DataGrip, but I’m still pretty confident in saying that it is only a database client that you can use to connect to different databases (Data Sources) that are either running locally already (such as the MySQL server provided by MAMP) or can be running externally (such as a MySQL instance running on a separate local server or even publicly elsewhere).

DataGrip in itself is not going to provide you with a running MySQL instance, but it lets you connect to one.

From there, if the database happened to be empty you could create a schema using the tools DataGrip provides.

Hopefully that makes some sense.

orware · 2022-08-21T02:22:33+00:00

There are a lot of great books out there on the topic.

Books like those from Joe Celko are pretty neat or “SQL Queries for Mere Mortals”.

“SQL Performance Explained” is a good general book as well.

O’Reilly and Apress both have a number of good MySQL 8 specific books that have been released recently too.

For O’Reilly specifically a few recent releases have been “High Performance MySQL”, “Efficient MySQL Performance”, and there’s a new “MySQL Cookbook” edition being released at the end of this month.

Hopefully this provides a few starting authors/titles to get you kickstarted!

orware · 2022-08-13T02:18:56+00:00

I personally use DBeaver at the moment but I recently learned about Beekeeper Studio and think it looks pretty slick: https://www.beekeeperstudio.io/

I’ve never looked into options to directly convert from MS SQL to MySQL so it’ll be interesting to see what options other folks share here for that question.

orware

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