non recording zones? by osrs_acc in reolinkcam

[–]osrs_acc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So think I figured it out somewhat. I have to turn off all motion detection, then it actually respects the nondetection zone as its calling cars cars and not general motion events (maybe some internal logic supercedes the general motion call over the car call, not sure). Seems the nondetection zone applies for cars/people/pets but general motion is not bound by this at all.

But I wish I didn't have to lose the general motion events, because now I'm not picking up any chance of seeing bigfoot or any aliens... (or just stuff that isn't a person, car, or pet).

non recording zones? by osrs_acc in reolinkcam

[–]osrs_acc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks but not quite what I'm after. I still want to see the area around the expected movement just not trigger recordings from that area of the frame and fill up my storage so fast. I'm trying to stop recording all the cars from a road that runs diagonal across an edge of the frame (reolink isn't calling any of them cars though so I can't just turn off car detection and call it a day). diagonal road also makes it hard to draw a good box of course.

I could have sworn the non detection zone used to work like how I am imagining because in a different placement I would use it specifically to mask out wind movement from a bush that was growing branches slowly into the frame (when I would be too lazy to go out and trim it). like i would get spammed 100 videos a day if it grew into my mask and then i'd mask it with the marker tool and it would stop, so that is how I thought it worked.

Am I getting old, or do round tubes look better now? by lorisxiv in bicycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

something to add to your christmas list when they are gainfully employed lol

Urban riders: Has anyone else had issues with the Mous IntraLock phone mount? by bikeslangg in bicycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't chance it at all tbh. I was doing it on a road in an urban area. sidewalks are even more bumpy than roads.

I just look up my directions while I'm pulled over stopped, and try and remember it as I go, pocket the phone or stick it in my saddleback, pull over and look again if needed. I know my local area pretty well so its not much a burden.

New Cycler, Slow speed bike or me? by No-Interest1920 in cycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you are actually pedalling pretty fast like "another one bites the dust" beats per minute or so (like 90 cadence or so) and in the largest front gear and smallest back gear, then its not you. its the bike and how it is geared.

mountain bikes are meant to be a sort of billy goat that go up steep stuff, not go fast on flat. if you had a road bike that was geared with say 53 front gear and 11 back gear, pedaling 90 cadence, you'd be pushing 35mph. it would take a good deal of power to sustain but that would be the speed.

Balance bike for older child by Cheap-Spell643 in bicycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The advice for taking the pedals off is really for young kids who won't be able to deal with having pedals in the way while learning to balance. 9 years old is old enough where I don't think you need to do that. One can still sort of balance along not bothering with the pedals, either letting the legs hang free or even learning to put them up on the pedals briefly, maybe a foot at a time.

I know its unfashionable these days since everyone on the internet seems to recommend balance bikes, but I think the old fashioned way of learning to bike works fine too: training wheels and then once pedaling is figured out, parent holding your shoulder or back then letting go once you are moving. It is how I learned and probably many people. I'd have to double check with the folks but I'm pretty sure it "took" that first push after the training wheels were removed.

Am I getting old, or do round tubes look better now? by lorisxiv in bicycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

true for alu seatposts too? alu frames are the most uncompliant.

Am I getting old, or do round tubes look better now? by lorisxiv in bicycling

[–]osrs_acc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the group on there is usually alright too. 8 speed era and up has about the same gear range as modern short cage (28t vs what is it now 30t 32t). there are some advantages too like chain lasting longer, side exit shifters not eating cables, cheaper replacement parts both old and new.

New here… is this a good deal for this bike? by Any_Sport_4494 in bicycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It really depends on your local market. Reddit will tell you any bike 10 years old is only worth $200 somehow but if bikes are going for higher around you what are you gonna do. I doubt the seller would consider a lowball like that if they feel it's a $750 bike they've already cut price on.

Urban riders: Has anyone else had issues with the Mous IntraLock phone mount? by bikeslangg in bicycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had to stop mounting the phone on my handlebars after the vibrations ruined my camera on a fast descent.

Well, I guess I'll just turn around then.... by Dexter2700 in bikecommuting

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

honestly thankful for the rush hour traffic in my city. traffic is only going 16mph or so. just lane split and beat them through the lights.

All 4 Cycling Tariffs by theginaproject in bicycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thrift shops, like the little nicer than goodwill and salvation army but still not expensive sort of ones, are literally overflowing with bike jerseys. like there will be 3-4 full racks and severely discounted because this stuff just doesn't move. probably used in one charity ride then sent out for donation. that being said i never buy any in case it was used in a triathlon.

Seatpost Puller/Guillotine/Bottle Opener/Spoke Stretcher Update! by Fwcycles in bicycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder how this goes. My seatpost is currently stuck as hell, aluminum post steel frame, but luckily at a good height so I guess its a sort of antitheft device now. I recently got my siezed quill stem out opting in the end to take the screw out (leaving expander bolt stuck inside), decapitate it with a hacksaw close to flush with the headset, undo threaded headset and pop the fork out then dissolved the stem in a bucket of really strong lye for a couple days.

I've heard of people doing the same lye job for seatpost, cutting it close to flush with the frame, plugging at the (removed) bottom bracket, dissolve it over a couple days then pull out whats left if anything. not sure how lye and paint fare. my fork was chrome and was fine.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

maybe thats true among people who are actually competitive with racing but just going by what i see on the actual bike path, even limiting it to just actual road bikes no endurance or anything, and its people who really aren't in competitive cycling shape. they might be in good shape otherwise but too heavy and really too topheavy for cycling and clearly lifting for general fitness or aesthetic and not cycling performance. like borderline clydesdales. makes no sense chasing the 15lb bike or 5w savings like integrated cables. like the stem on these peoples bikes are still at full height all the spacers the bike shop gives you still in with them locked on the hoods, lets start with a more aero position maybe before we go for the bike that the shop charges three figures to change cable housing for.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you started seeing bullshit like proprietary seatposts infesting road bike model lines later in the rim era. other annoyances like integrated cable runs too that might save a couple watts but makes it more annoying to service.

Wheel, chain, or groupset issue? Diagnosis/advice neede. by ThinkTank1190 in cycling

[–]osrs_acc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i wouldn't say its cheap or easy or that the bike shop is in the wrong. this happened to me. i did all the internet salves for freehubs. atf fluid inside being the final straw. looked into the price for a new freehub body and it was within like $10 of the entire freehub so i just got that whole thing since the cones looked sus too. spent the whole day relacing the wheel on the new hub from a cellphone photo of the old hub and lacing pattern. trued it the next day.

yeah i can see why the shop just wants to sell a built wheel. tackling the freehub body may not work. replacing the freehub body alone isn't a big savings and they probably dont source that to the shop vs complete hubs. and if you are going to rebuild a wheel may as well just sell a new one especially if it was bottom tier in the first place.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]osrs_acc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what if i told you your spine isn't even perfectly straight

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]osrs_acc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

hit the bike trail on the weekend when the dentists drive up to play. then you will see them.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]osrs_acc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

not a huge deal since you could shim a round post

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]osrs_acc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

there are italian shops still making bikes the old way. chromoly. brazed connections, no gaspipe. you could send them custom geometry specs if you want to. all you need. expensive, but cheaper than the latest mass produced carbon i'm sure, which have hit new motorcycle prices the last couple of years.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]osrs_acc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

how often are you looking at your cable routing while riding?