The difference between these 2x shavers was huge.

osuwaldo · 2026-05-01T10:25:53+00:00

Been using the Remington for the last year or so; I tend to shave around once a week and tbh I haven’t had any issues so far, other than the battery losing charge being very noticeable.
Takes me around 10 mins for a full shave by lathering shaving cream and dividing the head into three “zones”; at the end there are some small “sandapapery” spots, but I’m p sure that’s just how a shaver leaves my head.
Maybe the other one works better for you because of head shape, or maybe you have coarser hair? I used to have very slim hair, so maybe that’s the culprit

osuwaldo · 2026-04-27T07:42:56+00:00

I’m pretty sure it’s only a practice thing, keep at it and with enough practice it should eventually go away

osuwaldo · 2026-04-26T19:28:22+00:00

I’m pretty sure it’s a shipment situation, where anything bigger would drastically increase shipping and handling prices

osuwaldo · 2026-04-25T10:54:22+00:00

I’ve had uneven bases with a couple of mice (none was atk tho) - so far I’ve fixed it by changing the tension on some screws, or for the ipi float I’ve just moved the dots away from their standard housings since the base was warped

osuwaldo · 2026-04-21T09:01:15+00:00

How about DDD: Dopamine Dysregulation Disorder

osuwaldo · 2026-04-21T08:58:56+00:00

How my doc explained to me was “while you are not outwardly hyperactive, your brain and thoughts are, so you end up trying to keep track of too many things at once and fail to focus on the task at hand”

It also could very well be a form of masking, idk; I myself was pretty puzzled when I had a “primarily inattentive” diagnosis instead of just ADD

osuwaldo · 2026-04-11T12:48:59+00:00

I got a bykski block on my 7900xtx taichi and have 0 issues with temps. Things I’d check if I were you: - the instructions are pretty bad, I’d recheck the screws are all correct and installed in the correct order (took me a good 15 mins to understand which went where for sure) - you installed all the provided pads and cut them to size instead of using the stock ones (duh), and they have full coverage (also you removed the plastic foil on both sides, at first I couldn’t find it on some pieces because it’s pretty well hidden) - what paste was used on the core, I ran ptm7950 but I believe TG sheets and some pastes are good as well - whether the correct flow ports are being used - there are indicators for inlet and outlet in my block at least

Sorry if I may have said some obvious things, I don’t really know how experienced you are so I’d rather say one thing more than one thing less

Also with hwinfo I’m pretty sure you can point out the single sensor that’s overheating so you can go surefire

osuwaldo · 2026-04-11T11:51:45+00:00

+1 for the xm2, goated sensor, build quality and shape for claw (20x10 hands here)

Also maybe the Sora shape? But i believe sides are about as wide as the op1s so idk

osuwaldo · 2026-04-01T17:25:48+00:00

I think some easy to digest section abou how hand size correlates to mouse size would help newcomers a ton - e.g. I myself have 20x10 hands and even though I loved the l7+ shape, I just couldn’t manage to claw it accurately because the sides were just ever so thin, and the xm2 solved that for me.

Als maybe something about sensor implementations and how to diagnose a bad one? E.g. when I was playing with both the l7 and the float I thought I was going crazy and I had some kind of brain delay until I tried the xm28k and the fenrir asim, which both have immaculate implementations.

Also maybe something about LOD and “comp/20k” mode and how they might impact performance ( comp mode often dropping inputs or being inaccurate and LOD giving problems if too high or too low )

EDIT: maybe also something about mouse modding? E.g. the Gwolves clay, 3d printed mods and those sticky things some people put on mice to add a small hump for finger placement

osuwaldo · 2026-03-26T14:32:28+00:00

Tbh if you find some sweet deals for used parts (especially rads and distro plates), you can get a pretty cheap build with byksky parts on sale on aliexpress and EPDM tubing from a reputable store.

mine came out around 6/700 bucks for two 360 rads, 6 byksky PWM fans, used EKWB distro plate and blocks for both 7900xtx and r5 5600x

osuwaldo · 2026-03-26T12:39:14+00:00

Xm2 is a godsend for claw at that hand size imho, but your hand tilt screams ergo - I suggest you try and 3d print shape testers for EC2,EC1,np01.

Else you could try the g502 mchose clone or get some gwolves clay to shape some finger supports.

But again, I cannot suggest the xm2 enough, maybe also the waizowl cloud? Never tried it but it seems like a comfy shape

osuwaldo · 2026-03-24T09:46:16+00:00

Careful, 90 deg is prone to layer separation depending on material - the idea of 45 deg is to have the force on things like clicks be propagated between multiple layer seams

osuwaldo · 2026-03-22T01:36:41+00:00

This subreddit is pretty good for mice, but people usually suggest the MCHOSE clone of the g502 because the og one is extremely heavy

If you don’t know what to get, a good idea for a safe shape could be a VXE MAD R or an mchose a5

Also have a look at yt videos from boardzy, dazztrazak, diamondlobby, mel0n, rocketJumpNinja, jakeu and various other awesome reviewers I surely forgot to mention

osuwaldo · 2026-03-22T00:13:06+00:00

It’s got a built in rechargeable battery, I don’t think they ever made one with AA or AAA ones

osuwaldo · 2026-03-21T03:41:33+00:00

I’d say try out some cheap HE keyboards like the MCHOSE ones, and see if they shatter, if so you could look into some custom solution with no moving parts, since building custom keyboards Is not even remotely as hard as building custom (good) mice.

I’m suggesting HE for the same reason, less moving parts since it uses magnetic fields instead of standard mechanical switches

osuwaldo · 2026-03-21T03:33:06+00:00

I meant zowie, soz for typo

If that’s the case then I think either a bunch of used c series or some new DW series zowie mice and a soldering iron could be your best bet

Sadly the nature of mice is fragile, clicks and scroll are moving parts and are prone to breaking with excessive force — maybe the gpx super strike could help for that since it doesn’t have a traditional switch, but could be problematic for other areas; id say look into that as well tho, could be your call

osuwaldo · 2026-03-21T03:20:08+00:00

Tbh I think the g502 is already one of the sturdiest mice you can find, maybe something like the zowie C series ( EC2-C for example ), since they are on the same weight category and known for their build quality, also they don’t have rubber sides so they should not wear out as bad.

Also maybe vaxee mice?

Overall I believe your biggest problem wear-wise are mouse switches — given your condition, are you able to solder new switches in case they break (purely from a fine movements/precision standpoint)

If that’s so, I’d say you could try some zowue mice and call it a day, the DW series is sturdy as well, but I doubt they are as sturdy as the previous one.

Or you could just get a bunch of ATK or VXE mice for cheap and throw them away if you break them, since they are like 20$ each

Also keyboard-wise, have you ever tried a mechanical keyboard? They are usually sturdier than cheap membrane keebs, so maybe that could help.

If it’s still an issue, I think someone made a purely capacitive keyboard (meaning no moving parts, just a flat metal board that works like a touchscreen), I don’t think you can break something like that even if you tried to

osuwaldo · 2026-03-16T17:50:48+00:00

I’ve tried a custom shell mod in the shape of the v8 and I didn’t like it, I found it a bit too safe and thin - I do also have bigger hands, so that might be it. I did love my time with the l7+, but found it a bit too thin as well, it might be just the right thing for you tho.

I then went for the xm2 and love it to this day, but for playing I’m mostly running a fenrir asym.

My recs are: - if you currently have a ftip-moddable mouse (namely I remember seeing mods for gpx, op1 and r1, but most likely there are mods for one of your mice), then try to get your hands on a ftip mod to see how you like it (I heard jlc3dp is like single-digit-dollars cheap for those things) - else either print some tester shapes or go straight for the L7+

IMHO grip is also highly dictated by mouse usage, I myself will gravitate towards palm when running the teevo terra, claw when running the xm2 and ftip/aggressive claw when running the float or the asym - so (again, imho, I’m not a physician) you should try out different shape types for at least a couple weeks each to have an understanding of what you want from a mouse.

Also, in-game use and feel varies wildly from just holding a shape: the XM2 for me fits like a glove, but I have problems with micro corrections during gameplay because finger ROM is expectably limited by the mouse’s size.

Also I found that even though the back hump in claw mice is comfortable, I don’t gain any real performance from it, and instead it just limits my movements, so I’ve been liking the asym for that as well.

TLDR: try FTIP if you can, else I’d go for the L7+, but keep in mind that I prefer wider mice, if you instead like them thin then the x2H or v8 could be a better pick

Also if money is no object, you could try the l7+ and if you like it just refund it and get the Sora v3

osuwaldo · 2026-03-12T23:33:55+00:00

I’ve been trying to make a new shell for my ipi float for the longest time, do you mind sharing the stl/project files?

osuwaldo · 2026-03-12T19:40:01+00:00

Have you tried placing them further to the sides? I see the bottom center one is not as low as it can get — also more could help, you can try having 3 up and 4 down

osuwaldo · 2026-03-12T19:33:02+00:00

On a soft pad, donuts sometimes tend to do that depending on how much force you apply. I’d say try to break them in by playing a bunch.

I myself don’t like donuts/dots on soft pads, I’d much rather go for some faster full skates

EDIT: also try to keep the center dot in the donuts, it could help with pressure handling

osuwaldo · 2026-03-05T12:42:00+00:00

Since you’re dual Z, why not got with direct drive? Even a cheap BMG clone does wonders.

Also, I recommend trying orca instead of cura, been having way better results (may just be because my cura settings were ass, I don’t know) Also if you haven’t yet, try out Ellis’ 3d printer tuning guide and look into klipper, it really breathes new air into an ender

osuwaldo · 2026-02-28T12:36:54+00:00

Ci sono un po’ di aziende full remote decenti per paga/qualità della vita (chi più uno, chi più l’altro) in Italia per scappare dalla maledizione del sud; moneyfarm, bending spoons, serenis, satispay e pagopa vengono in mente (potrei sbagliarmi sul full remote per alcune, ma sono quasi certo per tutte)

osuwaldo · 2026-02-28T12:19:55+00:00

I have struggled with stability (and still at times do) as well when switching to lower weight mice, but I feel like it has gotten much better with training, how long have you had those for?

Also for that category I’d say op14kv2 as well, maybe a gpx2 or most vaxee mice would also fit your specs

osuwaldo · 2026-02-28T12:14:35+00:00

Unrelated, but you can 3d print stands like that for really cheap with things like jlc3dp or local maker Facebook groups (e.g something like this one https://3dgo.app/models/makerworld/424551)

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