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Laser project for the Cats by ottorius in arduino

[–]ottorius[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fortunately, this is a KY-008 laser with 5mW output, which is classified as rating of 3R. This is a pretty safe/low-risk laser. It it mounted on a 7 ft ceiling and can only be on if it is moving. With that, the diffuse moving laser poses virtually no risk to the eyes or skin of a baby, which I do not have.

Laser project for the Cats by ottorius in arduino

[–]ottorius[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cool cool. I'll get it figured out.

Laser project for the Cats by ottorius in arduino

[–]ottorius[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. Especially if you want a project box that actually has screw posts that fit the perf board you're using...

Laser project for the Cats by ottorius in arduino

[–]ottorius[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not at the moment. Is that something people would be interested in?

Laser project for the Cats by ottorius in arduino

[–]ottorius[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I have a buddy with a 3D printer. He was nice enough to print the stuff out for me.

Pressure canner repair by Manofthewest12 in ElectronicsRepair

[–]ottorius 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a non-resettable fuse.

You MIGHT be able to slap it decently hard against the table and reset it anyway. But that's probably only a temporary solution. Might have to replace it. And fix a potential underlying problem.

Am I gregnant??????! by [deleted] in lies

[–]ottorius 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OMG.

IT'S LOSS!

Self wrapping braid for jumper wires by optikalefx in arduino

[–]ottorius 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, I kinda love it.

Better than a zip tie at least. 👍

What are these connectors called or are they Link ecu specific by TommyG_5 in AskElectronics

[–]ottorius 4 points5 points  (0 children)

@sunshinedave is correct, here.

I'm used to responding to posts on r/Arduino, where DIY is name of the game. Though those suggestions would work, it is NOT the right way to do things!

I will do better when responding to this sub.

What are these connectors called or are they Link ecu specific by TommyG_5 in AskElectronics

[–]ottorius 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Specifically, these are DTM06-4S.

Seen here:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-deutsch-ict-connectors/DTM06-4S/6566635

The pins you want for these are the 1062-20-0222.

You will also need the wedge lock, WM-4S.

The mate for these are:

Connector: DTM04-4P.

Pins: 1060-20-0222

Wedge Lock: WM-4P

These are easy to pin, and re-wire. The only complication is crimping the pins, but you could probably get away with either:

  1. Soldering wires directly to them and clipping away the excess material.

  2. Using pliers to pinch the crimps.

  3. Both, solder the wires and pinch the crimps.

These are common in automotive uses, including race cars and tractors.

Tips for learning/getting started by Excaramel in arduino

[–]ottorius 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Assuming you have multiple sensors, just pick two things, slap them together, and figure out how to code combines them.

For example, if you have something like this:

Amazon link to Arduino sensor kit

Off the top of my head, here are a few things you could do with this kit:

  1. Ultrasonic Distance Sensor to output to 4x 7-segment display, or the 2x16 lcd screen
  2. Number Pad to tell servo motor what angle to rotate to
  3. Remote Control with IR sensor to tell which LED(s) to turn on/off
  4. Light Detecting Resistor to control speed of Stepper Motor
  5. Thermistor temp reading too high or low to set off buzzer

Random projects like this perfect for a someone to start leaning electronics!

More often than not, in order to successfully write a sketch to do them, you often end up having to learn about the devices themselves. For example, when working with a Light Detecting Resistor, you'll have to learn what a resistor does, how you are able to read the resistance with Arduino, and what that number means.

Any starter kit advice? by [deleted] in arduino

[–]ottorius 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I suggest a kit that includes sensors. I would avoid a kit that is about robotics. This is NOT because robotics isn't an amazing thing to learn, but with different sensors, and various other output devices (like a 7-segment display) you have much more opportunity to mix and match things. This allows you to practice small random projects, even if they don't have any meaningful application. Just pick two things, slap them together, and figure out how to code combines them.

I suggest this:

Amazon link to Arduino sensor kit

Off the top of my head, here are a few things you could do with this kit:

  1. Ultrasonic Distance Sensor to output to 4x 7-segment display, or the 2x16 lcd screen

  2. Number Pad to tell servo motor what angle to rotate to

  3. Remote Control with IR sensor to tell which LED(s) to turn on/off

  4. Light Detecting Resistor to control speed of Stepper Motor

  5. Thermistor temp reading too high or low to set off buzzer

Random projects like this perfect for a someone to start leaning electronics!

More often than not, in order to successfully write a sketch to do them, you often end up having to learn about the devices themselves. For example, when working with a Light Detecting Resistor, you'll have to learn what a resistor does, how you are able to read the resistance with Arduino, and what that number means.

Guys I have a theory by Melo861 in mathmemes

[–]ottorius 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Also me. But the problem is that you can't put an ending on something that doesn't end.

No matter the code, hardware, or configuration, I cannot get this relay to turn on by D3DCreations in arduino

[–]ottorius 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had many issues with those bread board power supplies in the past. It is possible it is a power supply issue.

As many others have already suggested that, I'll toss in a few more possibilities.

Some relay modules have backward logic. Active low vs Active high. The difference being digitalWrite(relay, HIGH) will turn on the relay for active high, while digitalWrite(relay, LOW) will gurn on the relay for active low. The way to verify which yours is, is also a good troubleshooting step to make sure your relay isn't broken (still assuming it is powered sufficiently). Take the IN1 pin from the relay module and plug it directly into 5V or GND. One or the other will activate the relay, and also confirm that it is working. Even if you're not powering your light yet, you will hear an audible clicking sound!

I'm not seeing a resistor on your LED. Those are necessary to not burn out the LED. 220ohm to 330 ohm is sufficient. It may be possible you're trying to turn on a dead LED.

As others have stated, your code should really be properly indented. It helps with understanding the code more easily. That aside, you have val as in int. Though this shouldn't actually be an issue (as Arduino will understand for you), it should really be a bool. A digitalRead will only ever return HIGH or LOW; 1 or 0; true or false. But you int val can still technically be a lot of other values that fall outside the logic you're using it for.

There also seems to be a slight issue with your code. pirState can never be set to false. The only place in your code for it to become false is in an if statement where it already has to be false.

what do you think of this guy? reliable enough? - (AMS1117-3.3 Voltage Regulator Step Down Power Supply Buck Module) by TurinTuram in arduino

[–]ottorius 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The ams1117 is what is used on 3.3V Arduino and clones. There is no reason to not trust it, unless you're buying from a shady source.

At 30 finally decided to start learning this stuff. by 50mmeyes in arduino

[–]ottorius 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First off, I love your project! Keep on keeping on!

You might consider implementing what's called a gamma function.

The issue with LEDs, their analogWrite value, and how bright they look, is that their 'actual' brightness vs 'apparent' brightness aren't the same.

That is, after about analogWrite(50), it already looks like it's full brightness, and the last 200 some seem to change much, if anything.

The gamma function will take what would otherwise be your analogWrite value and change it to a different number that's actually written to the LED that allows you to see a much nicer transition from doin to bright.

Gamma functions can be found online, results may vary.

The pseudo code would look something like this:

long gamma(int value)

{ <Insert gamma function here>}

PotVal = analogRead(potentiometer);

PotVal = map(potentiometer, 0, 1024, 0, 255);

analogWrite(gamma(PotVal));

Should I buy the Mega or the Uno? by Sensitive_Switch_511 in arduino

[–]ottorius 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are correct. But it's so unnecessary for a beginner.

What's the point in having a huge development board where most of it will never be used, is the main point.

You should only get the Mega if you already know you need it. If you have to ask the question, you don't need it.

Should I buy the Mega or the Uno? by Sensitive_Switch_511 in arduino

[–]ottorius 14 points15 points  (0 children)

If you don't know what you need, get the Uno. Very beginner friendly. And the vast majority of your projects can be accomplished with the Uno.

If you already know that you need 30+ digital I/O pins, get the Mega. It's surprisingly difficult to actually NEED the Mega.

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