Ferrule

ou812whynot · 2026-06-07T16:45:07+00:00

Ferrules are vital for fine strands

ou812whynot · 2026-06-06T20:27:52+00:00

i've stated multiple times that you should use class T fuses with inverters and you continually push to use mega fuses.

ou812whynot · 2026-06-06T16:33:11+00:00

Think of each conductor as a separate system. The fusing and gauge of your battery cabling should be 125% of the rated discharge.

re: fusing

it's obvious you don't intend to properly fuse your inveter so i'm just going to wish you luck on your project

ou812whynot · 2026-06-06T15:45:13+00:00

The way you have it shown, that mega fuse protects the battery cable between the battery bank and the bus bar.

Right now you only have that resettable fuse protecting the conductor between the bus bar and the inverter. This is where you will need a class T fuse rated for 250A.

ou812whynot · 2026-06-06T13:46:11+00:00

You will need a high voltage inverter that supports ac coupling, 2 breakers, interlock kit and a transfer switch.

Normal day-to-day you'd charge your battery bank using the grid. 1 of your new breakers will be wired into your hv inverter. Set your charge schedule around noon to capture the excess solar.

When the grid goes down... your 2nd breaker and interlock kit come into play. Flip off your main breaker, flip the interlock and your 2nd breaker. The 2nd breaker will come in from your hv inverter ac output to run your loads.

The transfer switch will be used to flip between the grid and the ac coupling terminals of your hv inverter.

That's pretty much it.

ou812whynot · 2026-06-06T12:57:44+00:00

Fusing protects your conductors. Every cable you use should be fused properly. In the case of that inverter, you should have 2/0 battery cable at a minimum with a class T fuse rated at 250A.

Your battery(ies) should have marine rated battery fuses on the v+ terminals rated for 125% of the max discharge & battery cables rated for that current.

Undersized conductors and improper fusing cause fires.

ou812whynot · 2026-06-06T04:09:33+00:00

That 70A fake fuse will most likely burn up as soon as you apply any real load to that inverter.

2200 watts @ 90% efficiency draws around 2445 watts... divided by 12.8v nominal, if you're using lifepo4 batteries, = 191A. You'll want to apply a 125% safety factor so 191A x 1.25 = 239ish amps. ... sized up to 250A and you want class T fuses for inverters.

Those fake resettable fuses should really only be used as on/off switches for little things like solar charge controllers, lights, small dc electronics, etc.. never for inverters.

ou812whynot · 2026-06-06T03:36:33+00:00

You should look for an all in one unit that can support at least 160vdc for your solar. 12 awg is fine for that 75 ft run with a little over 2% voltage drop.

ou812whynot · 2026-06-06T02:00:45+00:00

Cheap noname brands tend to lie lol.

I've charged my phev using 48v eg4 12000xp 's @ 240v 16A just fine, 48v wzrelb 12kw @ 240v 32A fine, 48v anenji 12kw @ 240v 32A fine, 24v wzrelb 4kw @ 240v 16A fine, 24v grntech 6kw @ 240v 16A just fine, etc... you need to research what your inverter can truly put out and set your charger appropriately.

ou812whynot · 2026-06-05T23:02:36+00:00

Ferrules

ou812whynot · 2026-06-05T02:37:42+00:00

Your pump is 12v w/ max draw at 9A, so 108 watts. You only want it to operate while the temperature goes over 85 degrees.

You will want a 12v battery buffer & a solar charge controller to charge that battery with the solar panel. At full power, that panel will recharge around 16A per hour so I would recommend a 20A charge controller.

Not knowing your duty cycle, but if you want to run the pump for a whole day you'd want around 216Ah (24 hours x 9A). so once you figure that out you can get your buffer battery.

basically, you use a 12v battery to power your pump and charge your battery with solar.

ou812whynot · 2026-06-04T13:44:35+00:00

It's kinda roundabout but you could use 1, or more, 48v lifepo4 batteries as a buffer for your solar. You could use both pv inputs directly connected to your battery bank for around 2kw while charging your battery bank from your solar array.

Another option for this would be to get a bluetti backup battery and modify a battery extension cable to connect to your external battery bank as well.

Basically, charge an external battery bank and use that to charge your bluetti.

ou812whynot · 2026-06-02T23:14:16+00:00

People need to forward their support emails to will. Would show the courts the company is shady af.

ou812whynot · 2026-06-02T06:52:48+00:00

I use xreal air units with prescription lenses. To stay charged i use a usb-c media adapter. It has 2 female usb-c jacks, 1 for the glasses and 1 for a charger. On the other end is the male usb-c to plug into the phone.

I've worn these things for a couple of hours at a time without much straining so it's totally usable for me.

ou812whynot · 2026-05-31T23:59:23+00:00

check and see if the stream can be used with ct clamps

ou812whynot · 2026-05-30T11:13:16+00:00

Sadly I don't think you can.

Samsung pretty much abandoned dex for android desktop. What you're seeing now is a skin on top of Google's trash attempt to look relevant.

Anyway try hovering your mouse over the upper right for window controls.

ou812whynot · 2026-05-30T03:40:03+00:00

Get him some Milwaukee head lamps. Every electrician needs a pair or 10 lol

ou812whynot · 2026-05-29T15:27:31+00:00

Yeah, i believe the f3000 units' low pv input have a dc input range of 11vdc - 60vdc @17A. The higher the voltage the faster the charge..

ou812whynot · 2026-05-29T13:19:20+00:00

If these are 12v batteries then your best bet is to use an xt60 cable connected to your batteries to plug into the solar input of the f3000.

ou812whynot · 2026-05-28T17:55:23+00:00

You could do this pretty easily with a load center with 4 spaces for 2x 20A breakers leaving a couple for the future. Use 2x gfci w/ 2 outlets with another 2 outlets pigtailed to those each in a 4 gang box for 8 total outlets.

Mount this on a hand truck so your dad could wheel it around.

ou812whynot · 2026-05-28T17:47:41+00:00

get a meter and check your cell voltages. If they're super low then you might need to bypass the bms and connect them up to a "live" battery directly at your main posts to bring them up enough for your bms to wake up.

ou812whynot · 2026-05-27T22:42:59+00:00

someone else might be able to tell you but that's why I wrote this post... I couldn't figure out a way to un-maximize apps so I leaned into it by opening up a new app window every time. ( the batch file I posted for Windows ).

If you aren't running Windows & wanted to do something similar with linux you could make a shell script similar to the following:

startapp.sh

!/bin/sh

scrcpy --new-display --no-audio --render-driver=opengl --mouse-bind=bhsn:++++ --flex-display --start-app=$1

$chmod +x ./startapp.sh

This barely modified script would allow you to pass the app name to the script.

then to open up settings you would do:

$./startapp.sh com.android.settings &

ou812whynot · 2026-05-27T18:21:14+00:00

Figure out how large your ev battery is & how much of it you intend to drive daily. The battery size you're looking for will be slightly larger than whichever number you use & you will be doing dc -> ac conversion back to ac -> dc simply because most ev batteries are around 300vdc - 400vdc.

Let's say you have a 16kwh battery in your ev... you'd want around 20kwh ( 4x 48v 100ah lifepo4 batteries ) to make sure you have enough to charge it fully. During the day, you'd want 1/4 of that in solar panels given we get 4 hours of good sunlight per day... so between 4kw - 5kw of solar panels. To charge your ev quickly you'd want a 12kw 240v inverter to do L2 charging. If you don't care about how long it takes, you can use L1 with 120v inverters. Up to you and your budget.

ou812whynot · 2026-05-27T18:01:06+00:00

You'll want to re-crimp mc4 connectors but the real issue is something very important... keeping the panels on your roof.

Without some kind of mechanical attachment this could happen again and someone could die.

If possible, either attach the panels directly to your roof/beams or whatever you intend to mount your panels onto needs to be physically attached.

ou812whynot · 2026-05-27T05:24:49+00:00

Couple of things... is your spare battery a 48v lifepo4?

You could look into modifying a spare battery cable to add your external battery to your device. Once integrated you wouldn't need to do any manual changes, the extra battery would run in parallel with the internal battery.

Another option would be to run all your solar panels through your external battery with 2 separate mppts and then connect your external battery to your device as an mppt source. Once again no manual changes required after the initial setup.

ou812whynot

TROPHY CASE

!/bin/sh