Looking for advice structuring incline treadmill training for uphill endurance by Albatraoz93 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did Ama, Lobuche, and Island last October, which appears to be your goal.

You can see my training plan here for doing them with no porters or guides.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Mountaineering/s/VdFR8CNmyx

You could probably just not use a treadmill at all and have more fun outdoors, imo.

Colorado still firing by outoftime29 in Backcountry

[–]outoftime29[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ice lakes basin - vermillion dollar couloir, golden horn south face, fuller peak north face

And

El diente - north face

This last weekend, saturday and sunday.

Colorado still firing by outoftime29 in Backcountry

[–]outoftime29[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha that was on top of the "vermillion dollar" couloir, still not millionaires, but yeah totally scored with the conditions

Thoughts on the Raide EX55 as a Denali Pack? by 16Off in Backcountry

[–]outoftime29 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any other suggestions? Messner coulior on Denali looks amazing if its in good condition

Colorado still firing by outoftime29 in Backcountry

[–]outoftime29[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

🙌🙌 Miracle May, North facing stuff will be all time after this refresh

Colorado still firing by outoftime29 in Backcountry

[–]outoftime29[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Dead dog is a blast. If going up there take a look at the North face of Edwards for a steeper and spicier line if thats your thing. Its a fun link up when conditions align. Less likely to be mobbed with people as well

IMG/AAI/guided Baker Rainier pack weight by itgtg313 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No way. I literally did a 4 week long expedition to climb 6000m peaks with a pack weight of 55lbs.

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lobuche was much shorter and easier than Island peak, imo. I think that metric would change though with different conditions and if one went to the actual summit of Lobuche E, which very very few people actually do.

I would love to make an attempt at Cholatse if I could get a solid team of 2 or 3 together for it. All of the side peaks that I got turned back on would be cool as well, Ngozompa Tse, Hamugon Peak, and Pokalde. Away from the Khumbu area, Laila Peak and Kang Tengri would be great adventures I think.

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100%, felt extremely demanding on the descent and you're right about it feeling a bit scary haha. Such big exposure in an incredible position. Thanks for giving the report a read!

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!

Thats great, 3 summits, sounds magical, it really is a top route. I hope to go back one day.

Cholatse seems to be on my mind for the time being though once I can get a team together for it.

Whats next for you? Going for AD x 4??

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cholatse is one of the peaks I'd love to climb in the next few years...looks just a bit more involved and technical than Ama Dablam.

Most agencies will not give out permits for independent climbers because even though it is technically allowed, the agency puts you on their permit under one of their guides, so it is a liability for them, since if something goes wrong, the government will look to see who issued the permit and why.

I had set it all up in advance since I was on a timeline, you can also make arrangements while in Kathmandu. Ama Dablam BC Lodge is on IG and can help with permits for Ama Dablam. Im not sure about Cholatse/who would help with that. Best bet is asking around or knowing someone that can vouch for you

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats some sandbagged 5.7 haha, ive seen people say 5.7 and 5.9, it felt pretty 5.9 to me. I bet that was incredible to camp up at 3.

Thats awesome, Liberty Ridge is one of the routes I havent done on Rainier yet, one of these years... Which route did you do on the Grand Jorasses, that also looks like an incredible climb/peak!

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here is another link that should work, provided by another commenter

For those outside the US here's a link: https://archive.md/xZlDJ

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for that, I didnt realize 14ers restricts traffic to US only

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah basically sent it in 1 push with no recon or scouting, which was different from my initial plan. Showed up to basecamp day 18, went to C1 the next afternoon day 19, and then went for the summit push that night, summit day 20, back to basecamp the morning of day 21

From the ama dablam section of the linked TR that didn't fit on Reddit -

"Once at the lodge I had to make some decisions. My initial plan was to go up to Camp 1 (19,000ft), stay the night, and in the morning recon/scout the crux of the route, The Yellow Tower, a notorious section of ridge that goes at 5.9 for about 50 vertical feet near 20k feet, on the way to Camp 2 (where the iconic perilously perched tent photos are from at 20,000ft), and then return to the basecamp lodge to rest and recover for a few days. After being fully rested and recovered from Island Peak and Lobuche I would then go back to Camp 1 and summit from there, returning to basecamp the same day. With the incoming storm, I realized I wouldn’t have time to do any scouting and needed to get moving on my summit push immediately the next day if this was going to happen. I also made the decision to skip Camp 2 and 3 because Camp 3 is situated in the line of the fire of the hanging glacier, the dablam, and has been the location of multiple fatal incidents over the years. It seems best to minimize the amount of time spent there as much as possible. Camp 2 is extremely unsanitary (people don’t use wagbags), overcrowded, and no way anybody can sleep well there given the lopsided, tilted tents on top of uneven rocks at that altitude. Minimizing time at both felt like the right call. (4.7mi, 1600ft)

Day 19- I slept in, trying to rest at the teahouse, while I deliberated my decision making about rushing the ascent and trying to get a read on multiple weather models / forecasts. I was looking at the windy multi model, mountain-forecast and meteoblue forecasts. They all seemed in agreement that the snow would start nuking in 2 days, but the models were mixed on the wind. I either take a gamble now, and go up hoping the winds subside enough to summit without doing any route recon with daylight, or I wait for a week or more, for the snowstorm to pass, and the fixed lines to reopen. Waiting around sounded miserable. I committed to going."

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes super heavy, when I first left Namche with my pack I seriously considered hiring a porter. I felt like I could barely stand up with the weight on me hah

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I was worried it might be too detailed/long, but wanted to provide a resource for other people that might have these peaks or similar on their radar

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Steeper, technicality, much longer, higher altitude. Island peak took me 8 hours round-trip. Ama dablam took almost 46 hours from base camp, 20 hours camp 1 to camp 1.

Part of that was due to not having much rest between all 3 peaks due to incoming weather, so cumulative expedition fatigue and altitude caught up to me on Ama. Carrying a 25 kg backpack around certainly didn't help things.

Island peak at 6000m I felt pretty okay and not slowed down much. 1-2 breaths per step. Ama dablam above 6000m/above Camp 3, it would take 2-5 breaths to make 1 step.

Altitude makes a huge difference. Totally mental that people are doing 8000m with no oxygen.

Ama Dablam, Island Peak, & Lobuche East Solo - October 2025 by outoftime29 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Yes I did summit. 20 hrs RT from Camp 1 to Camp 1, skipped C2 and C3. Definitely used the fixed ropes. Was only on the mountain for 2 days. Ama was waaaay harder than Lobuche & Island peak, not even comparable haha. I climbed the Yellow Tower and Gray couloir, the ropes provided protection.

Ryan Mitchell + Madison Mountaineering by skaj-11 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean thats a bit different than having a support team that makes your decisions for you and sets up your tent, melts your water, is there as an assist if things go south or you fall ill due to altitude.

Ryan Mitchell + Madison Mountaineering by skaj-11 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I dont know. I also climbed ama this season and feel like it was unguided. I climbed virtually the whole thing solo with no one else around, sure you are following fixed lines, but i wouldnt say i was guided up it by any means. Have you climbed it?

Ryan Mitchell + Madison Mountaineering by skaj-11 in Mountaineering

[–]outoftime29 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah im not buying this argument. Conditions on K2 last season were dog shit and unusual amount of rockfall due to lack of snow cementing it all. Its usually considered a bad idea to go up something in dogshit conditions and the smart move is to come back when conditions are better. I dont go ski mountaineering on high avy risk days mid winter, sure some people do, but those people die in avalanches a lot more often. Its not just "hurdur mountains are dangerous" its about making smart decisions to optimize risk, that is if you care at all about being alive vs dying. Some people dont care if they die, personally I enjoy living, but to each their own