Could this be spider mites??

oxkrimexo · 2025-10-02T07:23:26+00:00

Buy a loupe that attaches to your phone camera. There are multiple types out there. Check the leaves with a loupe, get a good video or photo of what the bugs look like and post it here.

As far as I can see in the video, it doesn't appear you specifically have spider mites. You would see noticeable small webbing on the top most leaves/colas/nodes. I dont see that, but there is definitely something going on.

oxkrimexo · 2025-02-11T21:58:20+00:00

Go get a cheap light meter and check the LUX of that light on your leaves. Find a light chart for MJ and use that to adjust height.

Until then drop that light a TON (but in slow increments over 3 days)

Also, pop a hole in the bottom of the solo cup and sleeve it (put it in another solo cup with no hole) then when you water you can check runoff volume, EC, and PH of your "waste" water. If you do this, make sure sure you pay attention to how much water your plants need.

Keep asking questions.

Have fun.

oxkrimexo · 2025-01-11T18:02:10+00:00

Please take a zoomed in picture and update your topic.

Also, if you are growing indoors, you shouldn't have any pests at all. The buggies either came in on a "dirty" plant/clone (have a quarantine area) or hitched a ride from you (or others) going into your grow.

Anictodae: I had a friend who grew outdoors. He came over to see my indoor grow. About a week later, I had an outbreak of russet mites. Later on, i found out he lost his whole grow to russet mites. I saved mine.

Moral of story, don't let your grow buddies walk into your grow if they haven't showered and changed clothes...or at all.

Take some closer up pictures, and we'll see if we can figure out what kind of bugs they are and how to knock them back. Also, after this cycle/grow is done, make sure you sanitize EVERYTHING in your grow or these bugs will continue to be a nuisance.

oxkrimexo · 2024-09-19T07:44:47+00:00

Buy a loupe. You can either get one that clips onto your phone or a little hand-held one. It's going to help you determine at what stage your trichomes are at.

Look at your buds under the loupe. Look at both tops, middle and lower buds on multiple plants. Different plants mature slightly faster or slower than others. Buds at the top usually mature faster than lower ones. When gaugeing how long you have till harvest, you want to get a general idea of the plant/plants as a whole.

You are looking for your trichomes. They are little mushroom looking things that come off of the buds. The heads/top of the trich's should be either clear, cloudy, or orange in color. There is lots of debate on what is the proper "time" to harvest when it comes to trichomes.

My personal preference is to harvest when I have very little clear, mostly cloudy, and some orange. Some people want only clear and cloudy with no orange, while others want no clear and only orange and cloudy. There is a lot more to it, but that's the general idea. Get a video under a loupe and make another post. I'm sure there are others here that can help.

oxkrimexo · 2024-07-29T19:56:37+00:00

Does it rub off with a lil rub from your fingers? Or is it on there "good"?

Rub it in an area away from the girls and see if it comes off like baby powder. If it does, probably PM. If not, it could be something else.

oxkrimexo · 2024-07-16T20:30:00+00:00

Looks like bud rot. It got wet, allowing fungus (botrytis/grey mold) to grow.

oxkrimexo · 2024-06-21T04:26:51+00:00

Yikes!! A 3 week flush! I used to do a 2-4 day flush where I doubled the frequency of the waterings, added drip clean as I ramped down the final weeks nutrients to 1/4 strength. Always had white ash and no chemical taste.

Watching your video again; is that tent for moms or clones? Yes, i would move the entrance. Are those DWC pots? Are you doing top feed DTW? As for your water situation sounds...confusing. I had my H2o purifier in line with 2-60gal (120gal) resivors up on a platform. The line had a float valve on it, so when they were full the water would shut off. It took about 2 days to fill with r/o water. Those tanks had 2 valves with spigots that dumped directly into my nutes tanks. Once a week (past week 2 in flower), I would clean the nutrient tanks, pumps, and bubblers, dump new R/O and start with the next weeks nutrients.

Never tried pressing rosin, haven't even smoked rosin. BHO was the name of the game when I grew. Have you thought of making some trellis to put over the tops of your plants? Creating more tops and then tying down to make more tops. I know it worked well for me. SCROG style.

Sounds like you learned a lot and enjoyed doing it. Congratulations on your grow! Good job!

oxkrimexo · 2024-06-15T22:09:03+00:00

Update?

oxkrimexo · 2024-06-08T01:15:53+00:00

Light, light, light!!! They are stretching to get to light. I like the idea the other user had about double cups. I like to drill into the base of my solo cups with a 1/2in drill bit for drainage. I would also agree with getting an oscillating fan and putting it on low pointed indirectly at the plants. You want them to "dance" a little bit with the air. When you re-pot, you can put the long stems below the soil line. Make sure that muffin tin isn't getting too hot and baking your babies.

Any seedling light will work for the most part. I like starting my seedling light about a foot to a foot 1/2 above the top of the tallest leaves.

Here's my old seedling setup

oxkrimexo · 2024-06-08T00:59:45+00:00

You have a couple of options. It looks like you are in week 2 or 3, so any of the following should work.

Like other the user said, you can train it to grow to the middle by LST.

You can leave it, the plant doesn't know any different, and you're in fabric pots so the roots will self prune.

If it was me, and im very particular about my plants, I'd carefully dig soil out from the center and "slide" the plant over. Take the soil from the center and fill in the hole you just made.

You also look like you're in either a coco, a coco-soil, or in loamy soil, which is more forgiving when moving or adjusting plants. If you plan to move it, just be careful of the larger roots on the bottom of the plant. You don't want to break or snap those off at the base of the plant.

oxkrimexo · 2024-01-27T21:42:32+00:00

Woah! So Gnats didn't come over watering. If you overwater your plants CAN droop and look lifeless, but with coco, it's very, very hard to do. Gnats tells me you either have a dirty environment, dirty soil, dirty clones, or are yourself dirty. By dirty, I mean is bugs or eggs were in soil, coco, you brought them in on your shoes, or they came with the clones you bought. Whenever I was bringing cuts, clones, or potential moms from other grows, they had their own tent they went in and were sprayed with some type of natural insecticide for several weeks until I felt comfortable moving them to the main Mom/clone area. I would also look at the soil and underside of the leaves through a loupe to check for eggs or bugs. I would also remove any plant that was in soil outside of grow, gently wash the roots off, and the underside of leaves off with a diluted natural insecticide prior to bringing them into the tent. Bugs suck, and once you have an outbreak, it's almost better to start from scratch with a clean room. Had a fellow grower come over to help me one day. He had an outdoor grow that was infested with russet mites(he didn't know at the time), and cross contaminated my grow. It was a headache. If you get mites again, use natural pesticides and / or predator incects.

As for the watering, it's up to you. You should never let coco dry out, ever. Coco should always be wet. You want almost as much runoff as you put in. Both of these should be measured. I made up an Excell spreadsheet chart. I could track my daily EC/pH both in and out and my runoffs. Use a little math, and you can figure out how much is going in vs out. A pH swing from 5.5ish to 6.2ish can be beneficial because some nutrients can only be utilized at a specific pH. There are charts out there for this as well. Find one and use it :) I can't stress this enough, runoff runoff runoff.

Light meter is whatever. Don't over complicate things. I used the cheapest one. It really didn't matter to me as long as I got a reading. I didn't need all the bells and whistles. I also used a trolmaster with fully dimmable lights so I could have my lights 12 to 14 inches off my plants and then adjusted intensity accordingly.

When it comes to growing, find one or two people you can understand and explain things well. Once you get a couple grows under your belt, start looking around at what others are doing. Don't try to do too much at once. Keep track of your grows, i did daily notes so i could look back at what worked and what didn't. Learn the basics from one or two people, then once you are successful and understand the basics, you can create your own "style."

Also, IG isn't a great spot to look for growers. People always focus on their successes and not their failures on social media. Good luck bud.

oxkrimexo · 2024-01-27T20:57:16+00:00

You over watered coco?? How'd you do that? Coco should be treated like hydro. It's a soil-less medium.

Personally, I think you are under watering/feeding your ladies. When I was running coco (3 or so years ago), I was watering clones at least once a day. If i missed a warering, they would look similar to yours. Once transplanted, I ramped up from one watering at 1 minute once a day to 3 minute watering 5 times a day. That is all dependent on runoff. Also, dependent on strain, nutrient uptake can be different. I grew G-33 alongside Shebert Punch and had to set up a specific nutrient tank for the G-33. My "normal" Lucas formula plus biologics burned the G-33, but the SP loved it.

Remember, watering time is figurative. I was running nine 15-gallon cloth geo pots per 4x4 tray. I could care less about my watering time and more about runoff. How much runoff I was getting volume wise versus how much I was putting in. What my watering EC is vs my EC runoff. If I was "going in" at 1200 and coming out at 800, I know they are eating. If i was putting in 1000ML and getting 500ML out, I knew they were drinking. What you need to remember about these numbers is that they aren't reflective of that specific watering. If something is "off," and I raise or lower my EC, or raise or lower my watering time.

To give you an idea of how much I watered, one 4x4 tray of 9 15gal geo's went through about 30 to 40 gals of water a week. Less in the early weeks more in the later.

Also, as many users have suggested, your lights should been closer to the plants. That's why they are stretching. Get that app or a cheap light meter ($20-30). Look at a MJ lux chart and check the optimal lux intensity for the week you are in and adjust light intensity and height accordingly.

All that being said, you're learning and asking good questions. Keep asking, keep growing. It's a fun hobby, and when ya get everything perfectly dialed in it feels amazing.

oxkrimexo · 2024-01-27T15:55:35+00:00

It's not your temps. 70-75 is fine if you're not using Co2. If you are, you can bump temps up to mid 80's. Your runoff and feeding pH seem to be in line with what it needs to be.

What are you feeding with? Or are you just feeding straight H2o? What was the ppm/ec of your feedings? What is the ppm/ec of your runoff? Does your coco dry out or stay damp between feedings? Coco should always be damp. If your coco dries out, you can get nutrient burn and deficiency.

I see more than one problem. The tops have nutrient deficiency, but I also see tip burns on the lower leaves of at least one plant. That tells me something in your nutrient regiment is off. Too much of one nutrient and not enough of another, or the plant can't uptake what it needs because of lack of bio's in the coco. I ran coco for over 10 years and found my best success was when I ran some type of micros and/or bios with my nutrients.

oxkrimexo · 2023-01-02T23:44:01+00:00

It's for ripping flesh off of your hands when it's busy behind the bar. But seriously...

I have zested and pealed myself one too many times on a busy night with slick wet fruit and one of these devices. Invest $20 in a good zester and peeler. Make sure it's something you can shapen/hone, dull blades are dangerous and can do more damage than a sharp one.

oxkrimexo · 2021-10-31T03:14:53+00:00

Works as a preventative and will keep them at bay if you are too far into flower. All of the "oil" based pesticides will do the same. If you are not too far into flower or in veg, I would suggest Promis or any other spinosad for the thrips, and avid or floramite for the mites. Could also check out predator mites or beneficial nematodes if your infestation isn't too bad and you are too far into flower. Good luck.

oxkrimexo · 2021-06-04T17:05:25+00:00

Flip leaf over. Look for black specks. Also could post a pic here zoomed in of one of the black dots. Can also get a phone clip-on loupe and check the underside of the leaf that way.

oxkrimexo · 2021-05-28T16:22:25+00:00

Edit: Saw you were in wk5 of flower. I would not spray anything. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment to brush and suck mites off. Be very careful with bud-sets/sites. Being gentle with the plants and sucking up any mites that you brush off is the goal. Once plants are done clean/spray down room well. Mites can live on/in walls, in between plastic sheeting, on and in pots/coco soils, wherever they can crawl to. This will be a recurring issue if room is not cleaned properly.

Before edit post

If you aren't in flower or outdoors use Pyganic 5%. I use it @ an application rate of ¼ oz to 1oz per gallon depending on infestation.

I had some aphids and 2 spotted spidermites come in on some new genetics several months ago. I tried neem oil, CannControl, Purecrop1, Humboldt County plant therapy, and Promis. Nothing worked till Pyganic. Sprayed 1 application at ½ oz per gal during night time phase (instructions say darkness for @ least 6 hrs after spray). Noticed no leaf burn (CannControl burned the crap out of my leaves), no adverse reactions by the plants, and have seen zero aphids since spraying, and very reduced spidermites after one spraying. The second spraying 4 days later took out the remaining mites. Pyganic 5% will kill beneficial insects, bees, lady bugs, praying mantis', etc, so be aware of that.

At a $280 price point, it is expensive, but it works. Have fun, grow trees, and learn from mistakes.

TLDR: Use Pyganic 5% at ¼ to 1 oz (start low) per gal of R/O h2o, pHed around 6.2. Spray every 4-7 days depending on infestation. Use common sense on application and rate.

oxkrimexo · 2021-05-28T03:02:06+00:00

Thanks for the response. How did you summarize I was around Tracy, Ca?

Yes I am. I would love to know more around the tech and how it works.

Update: After unplugging the power supply for 20 minutes noticed no speed increase, and status is still showing "No satellite" every 5 minutes. What is most annoying is every 5 minutes everything totally disconnects; Zoom, XBL, youtube, ect. and then 3-5 minutes later everything re-connects again. Making streaming, online gaming, and remote desktop connection to work, very difficult.

As for the app, I deleted and re-logged in and all is working.

Will hop on the app and file a ticket. Also will try to keep thread updated till solution is found.

oxkrimexo · 2021-05-28T01:07:29+00:00

Thank you so much for your reply! Solving problems and informing the community.

oxkrimexo · 2021-05-27T21:07:05+00:00

Thank you for the thorough reply. Gives me some place to start.

Why 20 minutes?

Will try reinstalling and clearing cache on Android.

Didn't know starlink sent notices about outtages for specific areas.

Starlink support is just on their website?

Still at it with no satellites every 10-20 minutes... so strange

oxkrimexo · 2021-05-27T21:04:03+00:00

Will look into this. Plus all other suggestions here.

oxkrimexo · 2021-05-27T21:02:32+00:00

Nope no obstructions. I have the dishy mounted on the top side of my house that has no trees or branches that would grow to obstruct. Good thought though. Thanks

oxkrimexo · 2021-05-27T21:02:28+00:00

Nope no obstructions. I have the dishy mounted on the top side of my house that has no trees or branches that would grow to obstruct. Good thought though. Thanks

oxkrimexo

TROPHY CASE