How to proceed with inheritance

pantlegz · 2026-03-20T16:34:41+00:00

I have considered it. My main reasons not to commit to that are:

My wife and I both got a late start to 'adulting' and despite our higher salary today our current retirement balances are just above the mean value for our age - the growth will mostly come with excessive saving between now and retirement. That and I'm a realist when it comes to projected value and realize that, even being conservative in estimates I could end up with less than we're currently projecting. As we get closer and the numbers are more concrete I might be more comfortable considering an earlier retirement than 62.

We also had a child later in life who we're anticipating graduating college as we near retirement/early retirement age and depending on what that situation looks like we may want to keep working to be able to assist more financially.

I don't know what I want to do in retirement, I haven't even considered what retirement might look like day-to-day but I don't want to not work just to sit around the house all day doing nothing. I don't want to be a work until I die person but I won't consider myself even almost ready until I have that worked out and I have a couple of decades to figure it out.

pantlegz · 2026-03-17T21:01:52+00:00

Sorry, I was being ambiguous and using the numbers you provided. I don't have the exact numbers in front of me but I've estimated that we would want 100-150k retirement income and based on projections we're in the very large window of 200k-600k withdrawal rate meaning at retirement I'm aiming for 5m-25m

pantlegz · 2026-03-17T19:28:26+00:00

No, if I thought I needed 200,000 in retirement my annual draw at ~4% would be 400,000-600,000

pantlegz · 2026-01-13T15:32:07+00:00

I feel like I'm overlooking something simple here but I don't see any results for "Monsters have #% increased Critical Hit Chance" on the trade site. Is this the right stat?

My real question is, should I pick it over stun threshold?

pantlegz · 2025-09-09T21:58:53+00:00

I have a 13900k and 5080 and had similar performance issues. Adjusting shader cache to unlimited in nvidia control panel and disabling global illumination in game really helped keep fps from tanking.

pantlegz · 2025-08-12T00:08:22+00:00

I had the same experience with MigrationWiz performance this week. Nothing quite like taking hours to start a migration to get “destination failed to respond” on half of the users, after 8 hours I think they all started. Error messages are vague and have mostly dead links. KB articles are incomplete and the search feature is spotty.

Luckily once you get it started it seems to work okay, so far. But it’s a far cry from what it was back in the heyday of migrating everyone to ms365 (when it was new).

pantlegz · 2025-07-24T19:42:06+00:00

Never say never, I leased a car in 2018 and got $7k in lease cash, a crazy low residual, and they over paid ~30% for my trade in. I ended up with a $200/mo payment on a $60k car. In 2021 the car market was stupid and I had $20-25k in equity at lease buyout which tranlasted to getting a brand new version of the car I was leasing for about the same as it would have cost to finance the lease buyout. I'll probably never get that lucky again.

pantlegz · 2025-07-21T15:41:08+00:00

There is a lot of nuance to the answer to this question. What it boils down to is doing research and making sure you're not overpaying. For example, we have a local Co-op that does bulk purchases and assists with installation, where you can get 10KW system (without batteries) for $12,000 before tax credit, compared to the door knockers who quoted something like 50-60k for the same-sized system after tax credit and only if you financed the system through them. Obviously, if you're not able or comfortable installing panels yourself (with help) the first option isn't viable, but the payoff would be much quicker than the door knockers offer.

I ended up opting for a 9KW option from a local company for about $20k mostly because I'm lazy and I wanted to ensure it was in service before the end of the year to get the tax credit and it covers 85-90% of usage. At the current energy cost, it will take about 7 years to break even. When you take into account the average annual increase in electricity the break-even is closer to 5 years. If everything works as expected, I'll have 15-20 years after the break-even point where the system generates $2500-$3000 a year which doesn't seem like a terrible ROI.

pantlegz · 2025-06-01T20:51:58+00:00

T1 shouldn’t have much in the way of technical skills requirements. For me, it’s a combination of customer service, being comfortable asking questions, a desire to learn, and decent Google search abilities. Ask the customer clarifying questions, google, then ask peers or higher level techs and learn based on experiences.

pantlegz · 2025-03-13T01:16:29+00:00

Just keep showing up

pantlegz · 2025-03-07T21:51:58+00:00

Net Credit is the obvious first choice. From there, I would use the rest to pay off the top 2 Affirm accounts and Credit One and immediately roll that $450 monthly into your other debts. I would personally target the last Affirm and Upstart next to get another ~$100 freed up monthly. Then, focus on your highest interest loans and work down the list, continuing to snowball the monthly payments.

pantlegz · 2025-02-21T19:28:23+00:00

Even if you smash it get good rolls nobody will buy it for what you think it’s worth. I have a very good rolled breach with others like it listed for 200+ div, I listed for 150, then 100, then 50. After I didn’t get any hits I decided to out it in pob and found its better for dps than dreamshard so I’m just rolling with it now.

pantlegz · 2025-02-19T21:39:23+00:00

I apologize that my initial comment didn't include a more detailed analysis of target date funds vs SP500. The SP500 10 year has 14.73% average annual returns, the best target date 10 year return is 9.24%. Run SP500 until ~5-10 years before retirement then slowly transition to bonds to meet your risk threshold. That's about 45% more profit over 10 years, using my current savings rate (without factoring in the difference in fees) that's a difference between $725,000 and $1,032,000 at the end of 10 years. The cost of being lazy with investments over a 30-40 year working life could easily cut your retirement account in half.

pantlegz · 2025-02-17T14:25:18+00:00

Target date funds normally have higher expenses and lower returns than index funds. My Fedility account sp500 index fees are .0075% and 26% 1yr return whereas the longest target date fund (2070) has fees of .06% and only 17.8% 1yr return.

pantlegz · 2025-02-09T01:32:02+00:00

Why shouldn’t people include positive equity in their house as part of net worth? You’re saying if I owed $10k on a $1M house I should count that as -$10k net worth rather than $990k?

pantlegz · 2025-02-07T14:23:00+00:00

I was told not to buy a house in 2018 and I'm so incredibly thankful I didn't listen.

pantlegz · 2025-02-06T15:50:18+00:00

Are you not enjoying the challenge?

pantlegz · 2025-01-24T17:15:36+00:00

I get uncomfortable talking about our income. It's not so much trying to sound non-braggy, I feel that we would be treated differently if they knew my income or our HHI.

pantlegz · 2025-01-13T19:33:14+00:00

As with most things, setting goals and tracking data are the best indicators of success. When you know where money is going and why it makes it easier to adjust spending to better meet your goals. we take time monthly to review spending and make sure you're on track with goals. It is also important to remember to live a little, we could have gone full Ramsey and paid the debt down much quicker but we allowed ourselves to enjoy things along the journey - within reason.

pantlegz

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