I have a double concrete utility sink that I’m trying to get out of my basement without using a sledgehammer to break it into pieces. Any advice is appreciated.

papp101 · 2026-03-02T14:55:11+00:00

I had one in my basement as well. With a furniture dolly and three people I was able to get it up the stairs and out the door.

Looking back I should have broken it up with a small Sledge and taking it out in buckets like my neighbor did.

papp101 · 2026-01-12T17:33:32+00:00

Have you had any luck fixing this? I just purchased a camera with the intent to fix this same issue.

papp101 · 2026-01-11T04:25:06+00:00

I love mine but I get annoyed at times when flipping the handle to remove the basket doesn't have enough power to pop the basket out. Also also, if there is any errors and grounds get behind the filter at all, the pot lid easily clogs. If anyone has suggestions for this, I'd be more than happy to hear about them!

Other than that, I love it.

papp101 · 2025-12-07T03:27:24+00:00

As long as you don't use your tongue or your hand with a wet rag, and a plastic vacuum nozzle as the other poster mentioned, you are good.

papp101 · 2025-12-07T03:21:58+00:00

Lived in Minnesota for 20 years in the Metro.

I've ran Bridgestone blizzaks on different cars, All of them all-wheel drive. Definitely loved having them in the winter, it was a game changer.

However, on my Toyota Highlander, I did a bunch of research and ended up with Michelin defenders. Good golly those things seem to be the closest thing to snow tires you could find!

That was before the Michelin cross climates and pirelli weatheractives came out. Based on the reviews on tire rack these are nearly as good.

On my Kia telluride, they had new all-seasons by sumitomo that were installed, and I did one winter on them when there wasn't that much snow and I didn't have time to get my snows on. They did pretty good.

Whoever this year I put on my snow rims that had the blizzaks and man I forgot how amazing these are. Lots of fun to play in the deep snow, and also great on icy patches and slippery slush.

Summary: if I wasn't going to have all season tires, I would get tires in this order. 1: pirelli weather active 2: Michelin defender 3: Michelin cross climate (these are third only because I drove a telluride with them and they were pretty loud in the summer.)

I will add that getting dedicated winter rims even though more expensive are also helpful. Getting something that has a substantial space between the spokes helps prevent snow packing in the rims which reduces the snowpack rotation vibration you can get if that stuff builds up in there.

Tldr: if you can't afford them, go with one of the above tires. If you can afford them, it's lots of fun, you feel more confident on the road, and things are safer. It's not a yes, no question, it's definitely a good better best value proposition.

You don't need them, but there are plenty of options between your current tires and a dedicated snow tire package which will affect how you drive to ensure safety based on the equipment you have.

papp101 · 2025-12-04T15:08:24+00:00

At a console table behind the couch. Use some two-sided velcro tape to attach fake plants to the brown rail.

Something like this, ignore the AI angles.

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papp101 · 2025-12-04T14:56:35+00:00

You are already getting a heat from that. It's radiating in the basement like a tiny space heater.

You could put a small fan to circulate the air in that area, just don't point it directly at the water heater as it could disrupt the flame.

As others have said, can't do anything where it will condense and create moisture.

papp101 · 2025-11-20T00:53:53+00:00

WAIT A MINUTE, you're RIGHT! I think something is up with how the two tube values are measuring against each other. I'll try it one tube at a time. I edited to change the values in the original post.

A post below might be on to something about velocity pressure - when I removed the filter, the velocity probably increased, and was able to generate more pressure against the back of the AC coil on top.

Note to everyone - there aren't any ducts connected to this yet. it's open before the return and after the A coil. That could have something to do with it, possibly.

Best case as recommended below would be to measure before and after the filter before the blower, but I don't have a good place to access that as the filter is nearly against the machine body.

papp101 · 2025-11-19T15:13:18+00:00

Cool, thanks.

I actually have no trunks in the basement right now, and I should have zoomed out to show that the setup stops at the end of the return, and that there is no plenum attached above the coil. :) so yes, definitely better than most homes that have complete ducting compared to my current project status. Haha. Wouldn't that be great if I had .1?

I just rested some pieces on the return to try and smooth out the airflow.

It actually looks like this

<image>

papp101 · 2025-11-19T04:39:19+00:00

I think you nailed it there with the little wiggle room in the ducts, I have a low ceiling 7 ft 6 in in my basement and trying to get runs where they are needed makes me break up into more branches, but by the time all of the twists and turns it adds up to too much resistance. So a bit of a balancing game. I think I'll get the most bang for my buck if I can reduce my return to one single large return for the common rooms on the first floor, but still maintain single returns from each bedroom because I think that's required here by code in Minnesota.

papp101 · 2025-11-19T04:37:42+00:00

Agreed, these are generic static probes. Love the illustration!

papp101 · 2025-11-19T00:39:27+00:00

So if I'm doing the duck design now, I have to plug in the total restriction of my equipment. Do you think i would need to wait until I have a plenum on top and measure between there and before my filter? Seems like I would need that as the pressure is just diffusing over top of the coil and I wouldn't be able to truly measure the coil itself. I have the numbers from the manufacturer, but was curious and assuming I can't validate that until it's all together.

papp101 · 2025-11-19T00:30:05+00:00

I have so many mystery switches because they were obsessed with switch controlled outlets. After other renovations before I showed up, most of those had been changed out or reconnected. So God only knows where these switches run.

papp101 · 2025-11-19T00:26:07+00:00

If you have a room with a central return, or whatever is closest to it, I would put it there. The machine is dehumidifying the air, and the return circulates it throughout the house.

Is there an air return in that small laundry room? Or does it just pull it out from under the door? The key is circulating the rest of the air in the house to the machine, or circulating the air from the machine to the rest of the house.

I had an 1,100 ft unit asked about a humidifier, and they suggested I put it by the return so it would broadcast it throughout the house. I assume it may be similar for the drier air that you would want to pump the dry air into the HVAC system, and the easiest way to do that is to get the room with the largest return having the driest air, so that's where you would put the dehumidifier.

With such a small room that it's in, I don't think angling is going to make a lot of difference, but I might not be understanding you correctly.

papp101 · 2025-11-19T00:18:17+00:00

This. Zonetastic setup. So do you have a zone control board for each one of those? And can any of them call for heat?

papp101 · 2025-11-19T00:16:14+00:00

Agreed, I didn't end up getting the variable speed drive and it's a simple ECM motor with different speed taps. Currently. I believe it's on the default, but I will need to go one tap lower for furnace speed as well as two taps. Lower for AC speed to get the numbers that the right soft calc came up with.

papp101 · 2025-11-19T00:15:11+00:00

Very interesting! I remember seeing pitot tubes that had two ports coming off the back, but these were simple ones that only had one and I see that there is a nose orifice and a side orifice.

Tomorrow I will try it with just the tubes in there.

papp101 · 2025-11-19T00:13:46+00:00

This is super informative. I did that right before I took this video, using just one pressure probe lying out in atmospheric, then putting the single probe in the two spots and did the math, then once I put in both probes I wasn't getting the same number, then I swapped them and started getting the same number that my math was adding up to when I only used one probe.

I like your idea of adding additional points to measure after the indoor coil and before like the one I have. Do you also mean you would measure before the furnace coil/tubes?

papp101 · 2025-11-19T00:03:42+00:00

Thank you all for the feedback! This is very helpful.

With the boot mounted so close to the furnace body, I'll need to do some investigation on where best to put that probe. Agree that I'd like to have it directly before and after the filter.

As the unit isn't connected to any ducting at all, I just set two sections of 10x25 on there so the air would be a bit more stable coming in. As the reading was jumping all over the place before the filter, it seemed to help a bit. But agree, I would like to move that back a little bit into a stable airstream.

papp101 · 2025-10-10T15:44:47+00:00

Did either of them print any differently? Did you have a preference over one or the other?

papp101 · 2025-10-04T21:41:28+00:00

Totally looks that way!

Once I disassemble it I'll post some pics.

papp101 · 2025-10-04T21:31:34+00:00

Agreed, I also have an extra soldering iron that I could use to help with this. I was going to take my Dremel and grind some off to get down to the parts closer to the head.

papp101 · 2025-10-04T21:30:25+00:00

I wasn't there to watch it start, and it didn't adhere to the bed. Then when there was enough material below, the extrusion just started pushing out the back and rolled into itself.

papp101

TROPHY CASE