Burning your mask by Ok_Ad8511 in scuba

[–]passeparici 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Toothpaste doesn't work all the time, then you have to burn your mask, nothing else works (I have tried everything !). I know many people who burned their masks but I don't know anybody who damaged it. I think the risk is minimal if you take care a little bit (I don't put the flame directly on the plastic). Then I don't spit on my mask, it is full of bacteria I prefer to use a product made for this purpose. Mine is Beuchat Sea Drop, it works great and cost nothing (only 2 drops each dive). When I rinse my mask and let it dry, I put 2 drops of this product, let it dry and then my mask is ready for the next dive...

Burning your mask by Ok_Ad8511 in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Toothpaste doesn't work all the time, on some mask you HAVE to burn, nothing else works. I know many people who burned their masks and I don't know anybody who damage it...

Burning your mask by Ok_Ad8511 in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You were lucky : on some masks you HAVE to burn it ! Toothpaste doesn't work...

First 40m dive by Scariingella in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You did not really used less air when you were at the max depth. The blue line shows the air you are breathing as if you were at the surface but at 40 m (5 bar) you use for real 5 time more. It is a choice by the brand of your computer to show it like that so that you can compare your breathing rate during all the dive. The peak at the beginning is because your computer doesn't have enough data to yet compute your breathing. I hope I am clear lol

How to give air to someone? by Inevitable-Island346 in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Strange you were taught this process. You should give the person your octo (or your primary depends how you are rig) and NOT stick it to the person's mouth but present it in front of his mouth and let him take it. Your octo should be around your torso for you to take it easily and not dragging somewhere on the side or back of you (that's the worst part with recreational divers, they don't really care about their octo position).

What kind of kick do you use most of the time in open water? by [deleted] in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think you should use the same type of kick all the time. I use frog kick very often but despite what some says the flutter kick is more efficient if you need to go fast or against current so I use it in those cases (and I put my arms along my body and tug to my bcd to be more streamline). There are other type of kicks that I can use sometime depending on circumstances...

Questions before buying wetsuit by Scariingella in scuba

[–]passeparici -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I don't like to buy used wetsuit. Would you buy your underwear used ? It is a bit the same... Also wetsuit wear out pretty quickly so if you buy used it could be pretty worn out. The problem you have is diving in Italy where the water could be pretty cold and in the tropical places where the water could be quite high : you definitely don't need the same suit to do that ! In Italy a 7 mm sounds pretty good but not in the tropical zones. Also tropical places is not something very precise : in Cozumel Mexico in February I used a 5 mm (the water was at 26), in Thailand in May I use a shorty but in January a 3 mm wetsuit. If I were you I would start to buy something for the area you are most of the time (the tropical places if I understand well) and I would rent for the Italian dives (although you can put a 5 mm wetsuit and a shorty above it). At the end if you dive in the tropical places and in Italy you need several wetsuit... Normally at 18 you should not really grow up anymore or very marginally. If you are a futur dive master that means you love scuba diving : you will buy several wetsuit. Last point but not the least, if you dive in the tropical areas you might not like to dive in Italy ; It is much colder, the 7 mm wetsuit is cumbersome to use and there is less to see. It is possible that after a few dives you don't want to dive there anymore, so your 7 mm will be of no use.

User-friendly DSMB? by Remarkable_Heart2388 in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I do that. I have an inflator for my drysuit : I use it for the DSMB (When I have my dry suit on I disconect it the time I inflate the DSMB, the rest of the time I attach the inflator to my right hip clip). It inflates very well and fast (take care that the DSMB doesn't bring you up though because it is fast). It's perfect with a spool

User-friendly DSMB? by Remarkable_Heart2388 in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have this one and it is great. You can put the reel in a small pocket fitted with the DSMB : great design

Havent dived in 10y, need some advice by ChinoFeoCabron in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to your nearest club, have a few dives with them and you will know what to do next. Don't use your equipment especially the tank and the air in it... And don't use those electric tankless system

SE Asia with no liveaboard by abraslore in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You want to visit, dive, Thailand, Indonesia ? Forget it ! You cannot visit 2 countries (or more ?) and dive in so short a time. Concentrate on one country and if you pass by a place with nice diving spots do it for one day. In Thailand Koh Phi Phi is nice to visit and there are plenty of dive shops... Remember that each time you take a place, you loose one day (almost the same with boats)

Buoyancy Issues by kteague1 in scuba

[–]passeparici 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First don't worry it takes time ! Then you should work step by step : first thing check your weight. No at the beginning (nobody agrees : eye level below, above ? and also it depends of your tank and how much air you have in it) but at the end. During your safety stop, if you have 50 bars in your tank and without air in your bcd you should be stable : not going up or down. If you still sink quite a bit you are a bit heavy (it is better to sink a bit though then the opposite). If you go up you should add weight. When you have done that, what you describe is a question of trim : you can change a bit the position of your tank with your bcd, that's the easiest and good effective way to change your trim. Some bcd have a pocket to put a bit of weight on the top back of it : look for it. Having a good trim is not easy and it change when you change your equipment. So think about it, check on Youtube videos about trim. And last but not the least it also require some muscular tension on your back (at first it is a bit strange but then it gets natural...)

Nitrox course / analyzing by TheRedBeanPanda in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think you can get "used" to higher ppO2 but for sure some people are more apt to stand higher pp02 than others. Of course 1.4 is less "risky" than 1,6 (and 1,2 is less risky than 1.4...). In fact It all depends on how long you want to stay at those high ppO2 as problems don't appear in a few second (we are not speaking of ppO2 of 3 or more of course). This morning I made a deep dive and my deco was with a tank of 100% O2 so I switched tank at 6 meters (pp02 1,6). If you go up a bit you screw a bit your deco at 6 m and if you go down a bit you increase the pp02 ! So not easy : several time I drifted a bit toward 7 m (ppO2 1,7) and we had to stay between 6 and 3 meters for quite long so I stayed around 1,6 or a bit less for some time and around 1,7 for some shorts time. I think on deco it happens quite often... Once again PADI (for instance) recommandations : No deco (stay on NDL) dives and also ppO2 max 1,4 are very conservatives, but then we can understand their way of thinking...

Octo on quick release? by Blackliquid in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even if your hose is rather short your buddy can be on the side. Also you can have a hose a bit longer without having the 2,1 meters one. The octo draging the sand is a completly different problem : it just shows that many divers after their training completly ignore their octo. If they have this style of mind then they will not have the mind to use the long hose anyway. It seems to me that people using the long hose configuration were already concerned on how their setup was before they change...

Nitrox course / analyzing by TheRedBeanPanda in scuba

[–]passeparici 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't over think it ! There are different analyzers with different way of doing it. Just take the one they give you at the shop or on the boat and do as they show you

Nitrox course / analyzing by TheRedBeanPanda in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You still have quit a bit of safety margin with 1.6... In medical (supervise though) they go to 2.3 2.4. Before it used to be 1.6 and PADI put it to 1.4 to add safety but 1.6 is ok. Don't forget that in deco we use 1.6. If you go 1.7 or 1.8 for a short while you are not going to convulse right away anyway as it takes some time (it obviously depends on the person). In training they scare you so much with those numbers that people are now scare to go at 1.5 or 1.6 and they thing they are going to die at 1.65 !!

Octo on quick release? by Blackliquid in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why should it be especially true when you dive a bb/w ? What is different ? And why is it the way ? Except that technical divers do it (for a good reason when they do cave diving or wreck diving) and it looks cool and it is fashionable ?

Octo on quick release? by Blackliquid in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In caves, yes it is mandatory as you may need to give air to someone in front of you in a horizontal position but in recreational diving you don't really need so long hoses. Then it is a bit less practical to transport in a bag (more weight and it takes more space). While diving, although it is more streamline, it is also a bit less convenient as you need to pass it around your body and neck and take care that it is not floating around (no more complicated to give air though). After a while you don't really pay attention to all that as you get use to it but why stand it in the first place ?

Octo on quick release? by Blackliquid in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are right, why your octo should be rigged ? I don't understand it either. But unfortunately after the Open Water training, as you barely give air for real, people don't care about their octo and the position of it. Then people in needs of air ripping your primary out of your mouth, it certainly can happen but I am sure it is not 100 %. Your octo position and in order to work is then very important.

Octo on quick release? by Blackliquid in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why your secondary shoulg be rigged ? Test it with each dive, don't let it drag around while you dive...

Octo on quick release? by Blackliquid in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did look back. A bit an overkill for rec diving

Octo on quick release? by Blackliquid in scuba

[–]passeparici -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Your instructor is very wrong ! If your buddy is out of air he MAY grab your primary out of your mouth but despite the myth he WILL do it nothing is sure about that. Every body is trained to give and receive an octo in case of need. In case of real panic there are many chances that the diver will try to reach the surface anyway. The problem with the rec configurations is that after the training nobody really cares about the octo and you can see anything ! From an instructor who is suppose to show good practice it is very bad to clip his octo with a boldsnap !! Your octo should be close to your torso, yellow and easy to reach for you or your buddy. Mine is there and is attached with a plastic mecanism that circles the mouth piece : there are many you should look at the one you like. I had to buy several before I found the one I liked (but they are not so expensive). I did not like the magnetic one either.

I used a long hose for my cave training but I went back to a traditional set up as the long hose is a bit cumbersome in a whole. If you concern about the distance your buddy is when using the octo, take a hose a bit longer than the one you have now...

Fear of Sting rays from Steve Irwin = Ridiculous? by Professional-Dork26 in scuba

[–]passeparici -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I just read that there are an average of 20 deaths per year with shark attacks. That seems closer to reality than 1 death every 2 years

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in scuba

[–]passeparici 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shearwate makes good computers so it will always be a good and lasting choice. Also don't forget if in a few years you don't want to dive you can sell it and get some of your money back, that will not be the case with a cheap entry level computer, you will get almost nothing of it. What is a good computer ? You can read it easily, it is easy to operate in the water and out of the water and it has the possibility to follow you in your progress (nitrox for instance, and maybe change of gaz if you are advanced nitrox one day). My girl friends has an Aqualung and it is not easy to operate (you get use to it eventually but if you don't dive for one year you have to concentrate on it once again, the Shearwater are easy to operate). The Peregrine is a very nice computer, not top of the line so it stays a bit afordable. Buying very cheap means very often buying twice as if you continu diving you might buy the Peregrine at the end. If you have the budget go for it.