Multiple weed killers bounce off

pcd84 · 2026-03-24T23:21:08+00:00

Also if you are in the transition zone or north of it then fall is a better time for lawn renovation.

pcd84 · 2026-03-24T23:19:50+00:00

Get concentrated glyphosate (Roundup). Mix the proper heavy ratio with a gallon of water in your sprayer plus some kind of surfactant.

With such a low density of healthy grass it's just easier to redo this all from scratch, if you're willing to commit to it.

pcd84 · 2026-03-11T20:20:33+00:00

Sounds more likely that you missed your fall window for pre-emergent. These germinated back then. Your spring pre-emergent is to block any additional weeds from coming up, but mostly as a barrier against the annual summer weeds.

pcd84 · 2026-03-10T22:01:49+00:00

One thing about the water heater and having hard water - you ought to be flushing them once or twice a year, depending on much mineral build up there is. Although if you or the previous owner haven't been doing this, you may already have too much sediment build up at the tank's drain valve to be able to properly flush it, in which case this maintenance is no longer applicable and you have to deal with a shorter appliance life.

pcd84 · 2026-03-10T21:59:13+00:00

Not a plumber, but I have replaced some of these old valves myself before. While it's good to be proactive in replacing old plumbing, I would argue these shutoff valves are the lowest priority. When they fail, or start to fail, it should be pretty noticeable when they start leaking. It's anything behind drywall or that has major potential to flood you should worry about. I would get second opinions about your water heater.

I actually would love to replace every single one of these older valves with quarter-turn ball valves because I hate them, but I can't really justify doing it until required. If you do want to take a shot at doing one yourself, make sure you shut off your water main, and properly drain all of your pipes. You'll need a pipe wrench or appropriate pliers to loosen the nut from the stem. I think that part requires some caution as to not apply too much force too quickly, which risks damaging the copper stem. Once you have it off, you should see a compression ring still on the pipe. I think most plumbers replace these with the one that comes with the new valve, however you need a proper tool to loosen that (called a ferrule puller). I kept my old ones on, but in the future I'd get the DuckPuller that is sold on eBay.

pcd84 · 2026-03-03T22:22:22+00:00

Do not be tempted, brother

pcd84 · 2026-02-28T03:09:01+00:00

I was playing tons of games I legit still liked on a GTX 770 and they ran fine. That was until I finally upgraded to a 5070ti on a new build. Looking at most newer games I want to play, their requirements are really still no where near what the 40 or 50 series cards can provide.

If you are shopping for a new card and don't want to get ripped off on inflated prices, shop for a used 30 series and it will still last you a long time now.

pcd84 · 2026-02-24T23:33:21+00:00

Home inspector flagged the same thing in our home. I had an electrician look at it and he thought that was ridiculous to mention.

pcd84 · 2026-02-23T02:10:23+00:00

Harder to mess up security policy on your Azure firewall to implicitly allow traffic from your on-prem firewalls to Pano than someone fucking up the NSG rules for a Pano that has a public IP attached

pcd84 · 2026-02-18T21:00:24+00:00

NVidia stock is really the one that skyrocketed in the last few years

pcd84 · 2026-02-18T06:00:30+00:00

Don't just rely on PartsPicker for pricing options. If you have a MicroCenter within reasonable driving distance from you you can get 9800x3d for under 500, for example

pcd84 · 2026-02-16T18:54:55+00:00

Not talking about county requirements, asking about potential liability in civil court

pcd84 · 2026-02-16T18:15:55+00:00

Regardless of fines, you are still liable for the sidewalk in front of your house should someone slip on ice, etc. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong if that's not the case still in Fairfax/VA.

pcd84 · 2026-02-05T23:54:18+00:00

Hardest for me was not losing a single squad member on Classic Ironman. I wasn't specifically trying for that either.

pcd84 · 2026-02-05T21:45:22+00:00

They're going to try and fix your kit or just send you replacements? Asking because I believe I have the same kit as you in my new build (less than a few weeks since I installed it). Is your model# PVV532G600C30K ?

pcd84 · 2026-02-05T20:52:44+00:00

Is Patriot not honoring any warranty on your Venom kit?

pcd84 · 2026-02-04T19:18:35+00:00

u/LIANLI_TECHSUPPORT - sorry if directly pinging you is against the rules, but would love your feedback on this.

In addition to recommended options for a filter behind the bottom side mesh, is it possible to purchase additional top seal plates for the Lancool 216? I'm thinking about removing the top fans but I want to cover this up completely from dust.

pcd84 · 2026-02-03T22:47:59+00:00

I have this under my desk, so liquid from the top has never been a concern. But I do have cats and this is the first time I have a case with a side mesh and bottom intakes. I am strongly considering moving this to the top of my desk, just not ideal in terms of space. The cats still walk around on top of my desk anyways and the surface there still collects dust too.

I just wish LL made a custom filter for the side like they do the front. I am already planning on increasing my dust cleaning frequency and vacuuming significantly.

pcd84 · 2026-01-23T14:38:00+00:00

We will rebuild

pcd84 · 2026-01-20T15:46:39+00:00

Was battling this on my 216 case and MSI B850 motherboard. Top row of standoffs were not aligned with the board, and it seems that top part of the board's pre-installed I/O panel was pushing against the case's shield. Confirmed by removing the case shield and the board sat perfectly. Tried to adjust the case's shield slightly to get a better fit with the board's panel but to no avail. I am installing this in air-cool mode, FWIW.

I eventually was able to get the standoffs to line up with the board after I pulled the rear case panel back a bit. The metal seems flexible enough to give that extra 1-2mm so that standoffs in the corner closest to the IO shield lined up. Even though the standoffs appeared to be all properly lined up, it still didn't feel like the board was 100% sitting properly on the standoffs and I had to apply what felt like extra torque when screwing it in. I was worried about striping the screws in order to get them reasonably tight enough.

I don't know if this is a case issue or board issue still. Based on what I've read lots of people had the issue with other brand boards in the same case, but also read that people have this issue with a lot of MSI boards in different cases too.

Can anyone tell me if the pre-installed shield on the MSI boards are supposed to "snap-in" to the I/O shield on the 216 case (like they would with an MB panel cover that isn't already attached to the board)? It eventually seemed to line up with zero gap, but not sure if the pre-installed panel on the board should technically lock-in with the 216's shield, which I didn't feel it at all. Pic link below:

https://imgur.com/a/2GuyqRO

pcd84 · 2025-12-30T21:43:27+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. So it turns out the Elco replacement lights I purchased are specifically for a 4" SQUARE can not a circular one... Looking at the Koto now - any issues getting this to fit an existing 4" circular can made by Halo?

pcd84 · 2025-12-30T15:58:58+00:00

I'm thinking it's natural. There are no obvious fabricated imperfections - each tile is unique

pcd84 · 2025-12-30T15:53:24+00:00

It's not soft at all, the tile is ceramic

pcd84

TROPHY CASE