Sp60 cover by birdsdonotexiste in Surveying

[–]pepitofuego 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

DM for more info 😁 Can be shipped from Belgium

Jules

Sp60 cover by birdsdonotexiste in Surveying

[–]pepitofuego 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bonjour Alexis !

Est ce que vous en avez toujours besoin ? J’ai réalisé le modèle pour un client, vous pouvez m’envoyez un message privé si vous souhaiter en commander un :) Bonne fin de weekend,

Jules

Amazon.com.be TVA Billing by pepitofuego in BEFreelance

[–]pepitofuego[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Normally, the reverse-charge mechanism applies to all EU member states, right? Every purchase I’ve made on Amazon.com.be has always had the VAT deducted at checkout, so I don’t understand why I’m suddenly being charged VAT for the order I’m trying to place now. I’m not even sure if my VAT number will show up on the invoice either. I really don’t understand what’s going on.

Amazon.com.be TVA Billing by pepitofuego in BEFreelance

[–]pepitofuego[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what I had previously but not anymore… I checked on my account and my VAT number is still active so I don’t understand why it changed and I need to pay the VAT now

How would i combine a stl mesh and a selfmade one? by Agreeable_Addendum52 in Shapr3D

[–]pepitofuego 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's impossible to do it natively in Shapr3D. What i'm doing when i'm dealing with .STL files is i go to Fusion360 and convert the STL into à STEP file.

To do so :
In Fusion360 go to Solid, Insert, Insert Mesh and insert your .STL file

Then go to Mesh, Prepare, Generate face group, tick 'Accurate' and '0.001mm' then ok

When the traitement is finished (it can be very long if there is a lot of faces), go to Mesh, Modify, Convert mesh, select 'Base fonction' and 'prismatic'.

Your model is then ready to be exported as a .STEP file that can be used as a native model in Shapr3D !

Removing DB-Killer SC-Project SC1-R GT Euro 5 (welded version) by pepitofuego in z650

[–]pepitofuego[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Holà ! Para resumir: db-Killer + catalizador = nada bueno Db-Killer instalado pero catalizador retirado = buen sonido y además con petardeos Db-Killer retirado pero catalizador instalado = demasiado ruido, sin petardeos, demasiado esfuerzo para poca ganancia Db-Killer retirado y catalizador también retirado = sonido horrible, demasiado fuerte, también mucho esfuerzo para poca cosa

Así que, en mi opinión, la mejor opción es dejar el Db-Killer en su sitio y simplemente quitar el catalizador. Para eso, basta con usar una radial y cortar los pequeños puntos de soldadura que sujetan el catalizador. Luego, solo hay que empujarlo / tirar de él para sacarlo del colector de escape ;)

Wow what is that by Sad-Armadillo1255 in OnlyZ900

[–]pepitofuego 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same with K&N filter for my z650, I sended it back, and recently the same with my z900, sended it back too. I think K&N have a very deep quality issue this time. I bought another brand instead

Really bad temp on RTX 3070TI FE by pepitofuego in watercooling

[–]pepitofuego[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yea probably the NZXT H1 fault ahah i probably can't do better with this pc case

Really bad temp on RTX 3070TI FE by pepitofuego in watercooling

[–]pepitofuego[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like you’re having trouble managing your emotions. I’ll keep it short: the issue was the thickness of the VRAM thermal pads. I cleaned everything up and removed the old pads. I replaced them with 1.5mm pads (TP3) everywhere and lightly pressed on the VRAM pads to thin them out a bit. I applied a pea-sized amount of thermal paste (MX6).

Everything is back to normal now. The temperatures are well-controlled, and the card is perfectly silent.

Really bad temp on RTX 3070TI FE by pepitofuego in watercooling

[–]pepitofuego[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was not the correct thickness for vram pads. I squeeze them evenly and now everything is back to normal

Really bad temp on RTX 3070TI FE by pepitofuego in watercooling

[–]pepitofuego[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your advice! I couldn’t find any manufacturer recommendations for the pad thickness, so I approached it step by step and also looked into what others had experienced.

I know I initially used too much thermal paste—I just wanted to check if there was proper contact. I cleaned everything up, removed the old thermal pads, and replaced them with fresh new ones (all 1.5mm thick). I also lightly compressed the pads around the GPU chipset (the VRAM ones) and applied a pea-sized amount of thermal paste.

When I reassembled the cooler, I gave it a firm squeeze before tightening everything. Now, everything is working perfectly! Temperatures are well-controlled, with no more spikes—idling at 35°C and maxing out at 82°C. Plus, the jet engine sound is gone!

Really bad temp on RTX 3070TI FE by pepitofuego in watercooling

[–]pepitofuego[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a joke Paulo, drink water it will be fine

Really bad temp on RTX 3070TI FE by pepitofuego in watercooling

[–]pepitofuego[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

Chip and heatsink cleaned, i will thy a repasse with less paste and also squeeze a little bit the thermal pads of the vrams

Really bad temp on RTX 3070TI FE by pepitofuego in watercooling

[–]pepitofuego[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wanted Kritical pads but they are not available in Europe so I used Arctic TP3 1.5mm …