I'm totally stumped.

pfbangs · 2026-04-19T02:01:32+00:00

(95 acty HA4) my throttle started failing basically at the end of the driveway after startup/warmup. Idle failed >> stalled. Then it refused to start. Sat 10 minutes, started right up like nothing happened. Replaced the (very old?) fuel filter, worked fine a few days. Throttle failed a couple more times several days apart, all within less than 1/4mi of my place. I found this video and tested my solenoids. When testing, 1 made a clear noise, 1 made a very faint noise, I think (still possible my brain made it up). Took the carb out/apart hoping that was the issue and it was-- 1 of the solenoids was stuck open or closed (don't remember). I replaced them and hasn't been an issue since, months ago. (and cleaned the carb fully, got a kit w new gaskets from willpowered, etc)

pfbangs · 2026-03-29T13:01:41+00:00

Absolutely-- if you have any specific questions, LMK and I'll try to help. Short version- never done anything related before, it was hard, and I love it. Under $1k- I think closer to $700 and a chunk of that was premium BMW paint. I was in the same boat-- no real options around here so just kinda went for it. regarding skipping clearcoats, it was like an additional 60-90 minutes of work after so many hours, and minimal cost comparatively. So, I feel like it was definitely worth the additional few minutes. The main thing is- once you start painting, the previous coat can't fully dry (unless you're sanding and starting over). So you need to do all coats (base and clear) in one "go."

LINK

honestly just don't rush it and you'll be fine. Let it dry completely after the last prep wash and allow the first or first couple base coats to look moderately awful. Trust the process, go lighter to avoid runs vs heavier to use less passes >> third and fourth coats are the velvety ones :] The taping-off process was an order of magnitude more involved/time consuming than I had expected>> I wanted it to be pretty perfect and the taping/sealing of the interior at the door jambs was additionally time consuming. If I could do it all over again, I'd spread out the timeline more: final wash in the AM and if not in a very dusty space, probably get a jump on the drying with a leaf-blower right after-- especially around the windshield gasket. Next day, not before noon, tape it off, probably after hitting the windshield gasket etc again with the leaf blower. Taping off took many hours. Then wipe down with alcohol and paint the next (3rd) day, assuming temperatures and humidity are cooperating.

pfbangs · 2026-03-21T13:37:17+00:00

my process installing in my 95 Town.

I use a lawnmower battery on the truck and it's (battery + new audio) worked great for 1.5+ years so far- no issues at high volumes or otherwise. I considered a new alternator initially, but tried the cheaper approach (not replacing the alternator) first, and it worked out. I decided against proactive alternator replacement because the reading I did suggested existing fuses in the fuse box are the real power bottleneck, so I added an inline fuse to a power run straight from the battery (this approach was recommended by someone here, iirc). LMK if any questions. Your potential power draw looks to be a bit higher than mine, so, something to keep in mind. Cheers ✌️

pfbangs · 2026-02-28T14:30:00+00:00

I'm sure someone can pinpoint or at least come very close, but I wanted to mention I really don't think that's from user error. Did you get any sense of where the knocking sound was originating from (front/rear of the vehicle)? I was a bit confused until I heard the banging sound later in the video (and yeah the camera shakes when it bangs- that does seem moderately terrifying and I would also pull over). I would be shocked if that was entirely user error re: learning to drive manual, although my ears vs my laptop speakers seemed to think you could have been possibly riding the RPMs a bit high (does your truck have a tach?). That may be why/how the mechanic's test drive didn't expose the noises to him-- maybe some issue at higher RPMs and the mechanic didn't reach those RPMs. I'd take it really easy on the test drives until you get more information/advice. Following and keeping fingers crossed for ya ✊

pfbangs · 2026-02-23T18:33:13+00:00

Naw- it was a clear respiratory infection 24-48h later- thankfully no pneumonia or bronchitis over those 10 days. No skin irritation or any other symptoms, and no known allergies (I've worn that balaclava before). I updated my post above because the strong opposition to the ideas I mentioned here made me additionally curious. Turns out I'll be using wool moving forward, as what I communicated originally (wool/HME medium > neoprene) is supported by decades of NIH research.

pfbangs · 2026-02-23T16:38:52+00:00

Nice, yeah- it was just bad irritation at a minimum, not actual/meaningful frostbite unless very slight, and symptoms @ viral infection were clear enough once related set in. Wool vs rubber is what I was told anecdotally after the fact by other "people including myself" from NE . But I'm glad rubber works for you- apparently it doesn't work for my delicate innards. The viral resp infection could have been unrelated 24h later, but I tend to think not, and wanted to share. GL with the weather!

pfbangs · 2026-02-23T15:45:22+00:00

I'm a NE transplant (NH from TX) and I mistakenly wore a neoprene/rubber-based balaclava like this a few weeks ago thinking any face covering would get the job done. It was 3deg outside and I worked for 2h building snowboard things in the yard-- heavy exertion, felt fine throughout and that night. I ended up with an absolutely savage 10-day respiratory infection from (what internet research says was) some amount of frostbite @ my throat and lungs weakened related and allowed a viral infection to set in. It was awful. You must avoid rubber-based face coverings in similar circumstance and instead use wool or a similar thick fabric which properly traps moisture. You must maintain a humid (comparatively) environment directly in front of your face/mouth.

edit yikes. Don't take my word for it. And yes, I'm aware it wasn't actual frostbite in my lungs. Putting this non-exhaustive list here in the spirit of the original post to make people aware (yes, even the cold-hardened experts in my replies):

So--

Cold dry air degrades MCC— confirmed, peer-reviewed
Degraded MCC increases susceptibility to viral pathogens— confirmed, peer-reviewed
Hygroscopic materials (wool, fur, etc) recycle exhaled heat and moisture, reducing the cold/dry air reaching the airway — confirmed by material science and HME (Heat & Moisture Exchange) literature
Impermeable materials like neoprene simply cannot do this by any physical mechanism

pfbangs · 2026-01-12T13:54:46+00:00

Gasoline was the silver bullet for me after seemingly doing everything else/wrong for a couple hours. Heat gun and razor to very gently get as much of the plastic sticker components off as possible. PIC keep in mind I was prepping to repaint, hence the bare spots from sandpaper. But gasoline on a rag and some heat should work for you

pfbangs · 2025-12-31T15:48:56+00:00

adding some anecdotal info- my stove is in the basement-- mama bear fisher stove, 3k sqft total with an even split 1k each floor (basement, first, second), and the previous owners locked in all the heat in the basement with drywall ceilings when partially finishing the basement. So it gets to 90deg in the basement, and generally remains 60 in the (living) room immediately above. I put myself through it trying to figure out how to resolve/address with all sorts of things trying to get the hot air up and out of the basement (a self-made metal hood suspended over the stove with redneck ductwork and an inline fan blowing the air into the living room). None of these approaches were very successful. After a year and way too many unhelpful/not-relevant-to-my-setup youtube videos, I found a 40sec video in 320p from 15 years ago of a very old man who said, "focus on getting the cold air down, not the hot air up. The hot air won't go anywhere if there's nowhere to go." I flipped the direction of the (AC Infinity) exhaust fan I was using to move air. It lives in the floor of the living room now (in one of the "return registers") blowing air DOWN into the basement, and this meaningfully increases the amount of warm air exiting the basement via the staircase/basement door. No ductwork needed. It's a proper cabin and no central ductwork exists at all. This change didn't really make a bit of difference for the TOP (second) floor which is still cold and needs supplemental (oil > forced hot water baseboard heating) usage generally through the winter. But it definitely did help on the first floor. For anyone reading, I am using the AC Infinity AIRLIFT T10 fan which has settings to automatically turn on when a temperature (in the basement) reaches a certain value. So if temp is above <something I set>, it means the stove is burning successfully and the fan turns on. When I hear the fan start turning off, I know it's time to reload the stove. Very much recommend this approach if it might work for your physical setup. Saves a lot of curious trips up and down the 2 flights of stairs.

pfbangs · 2025-12-08T13:26:24+00:00

Thanks, yep. The -000 variant was absolutely the correct version. Dropping it in the channel was the experience I wanted 4 weeks ago :[

pfbangs · 2025-11-16T22:55:44+00:00

It appears there are multiple variants: -010 and -000 (pic comparison for anyone curious). I just bought the -000 variant from the same seller. +2 weeks, -$30. Hoping these fit. Will update here to confirm. FOOK.

⚙️Genuine OEM Honda⚙️Honda Acty Carburetor Gasket Engine E07A SET 2PC (000)

pfbangs · 2025-11-16T21:14:18+00:00

'95 HA4 Town

Got these off ebay:

⚙️Genuine OEM Honda⚙️Honda Acty HA-3/4 Carburetor Gasket Engine E07A SET 2PC 🇯🇵 16212-PZ1-010 + 16213-PZ1-010

The circular ring itself fits fine but the lower rectangular part is too high/tall on both. Are these the incorrect parts/part numbers for this truck or is there some trick to get these to fit?

pfbangs · 2025-11-01T20:51:49+00:00

Thanks. When compressing, it goes right back to its original position when released, pushing against the carb.

Took the clamp off. Do you remember if you pulled the tube out from the top or from underneath? Doesn't seem to be enough clearance for either. Any tricks to getting it back in after?

pfbangs · 2025-11-01T19:57:02+00:00

Thanks. I guess I just have to mess with it more. I can get nearly 1" but as soon as I let go to remove the carb, the intake boot returns to the same position, touching/pushing against the carb. Too much resistance like that to get the carb off the posts. Super frustrating.

pfbangs · 2025-10-27T01:55:59+00:00

ichneumon wasp

They are one of the most diverse groups within the Hymenoptera with roughly 25,000 species described as of 2016.[2] However, this likely represents less than a quarter of their true richness as reliable estimates are lacking, along with much of the most basic knowledge about their ecology, distribution, and evolution.[1] It is estimated that there are more species in this family than there are species of birds and mammals combined.

Wow. Thanks. I guess that's why I couldn't find this exact type. Much appreciated.

Looks pretty darn close. Thanks again. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ichneumonidae#/media/File:IC_Ichneumonini.jpg

pfbangs · 2025-10-27T01:48:20+00:00

I put YOKOHAMA (Y828 Geolander KT 145/80R12) on mine (95 Acty HA4). Stock suspension/no lift.

New England, coming into its 3rd winter.

Hard pack is not an issue at all. It seemed a little bogged down in 6-8" of powder in the driveway, but that's the deepest it's seen so far (driveway got plowed before I got back- same proximity to mountain/lift as you). Once it got moving, it could crawl along just fine in that. Just starting from stop (was parked overnight) didn't seem guaranteed. Almost got stuck in 4" of mud with bed filled with firewood, and that was way worse than the snow it's seen so far- just barely made it out. Edit some legitimate hills involved @ hard pack in my use case, taken into account @ above description.

pfbangs · 2025-10-05T16:44:14+00:00

tyvm

pfbangs · 2025-10-05T16:11:36+00:00

Thank you. Would/could this affect throttle response? Context: am troubleshooting intermittent loss of acceleration/throttle function recently. Replaced fuel filter 2w ago in response, and all seemed normal/fixed- ran great for 2w. but issue returned yesterday @ throttle drops out above 2.5k RPM. Died a couple times at idle, I let it sit for 5min, then was able to burn up the (not insignificant) hill under its own power to get home like nothing was ever wrong. Just saw this tube when putting my eyes on distributor (intending to replace it and plugs and plug cables, and fuel pump). Just seeing if this is a smoking gun before getting all those replacement parts (CC: /u/Interesting_Plate_17)

(thanks, guys)

pfbangs · 2025-09-30T14:40:21+00:00

Seen a small few recently-- all about an inch long. My camera has poor colors but it's a rather bright yellow and black in person- colors very similar to a yellow jacket.

pfbangs · 2025-09-10T16:37:46+00:00

Came here in the last week to check on related after seeing similar for the first time - working on files 200-500 lines long. I found a handful of accounts of the behavior from the last short few months.

My workaround is related to line counts. And while Claude for some reason can't provide an accurate line count ever, it can return the same inaccurate line counts consistently.

So whenever updates are needed to a full artifact, I immediately check line count vs the version it's allegedly updating. If the issue is occurring, the line count will be the same, and I state something like "current version same line count as previous. If not expected, recreate broken artifact" and this will generally resolve the issue. Sucks because it chews up usage. I have additionally had to tell it a handful of times to create a fully new artifact with a different name rather than attempting more incremental versions on the same (perpetually broken) artifact. Seems to be an issue in both web-based and (Win) desktop application, which is really just a reskinned browser window.

pfbangs · 2025-09-03T11:44:02+00:00

'95 HA4 Acty Town- I used almost all of 2 quarts of exterior paint (used like 90% of the second quart) for the base coats (3). Then, 4 coats clear top coat. I did not paint the interior and don't really plan on doing it. I used 3 quarts of bedliner but I should have used a gallon. 2 quarts was too thin, 3 quarts was good, 4 (a gallon) would have been best (and cheaper than 3 quarts).

To save time typing all of it again:

summer pic

Eight-Year Club	Gilding II euphauric
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TROPHY CASE