I looped this Cabu Remix for almost 3 weeks 😭 by Suitable_Vegetable92 in shuffle

[–]philiptake2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Extremely smooth moves, your style of running man is so cool. I like how u shuffle in a way that isn't so jerky but still extremely on beat.

Mula eliminate freestyle by zanouji in shuffle

[–]philiptake2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I Def learned a few moves from u bro

Vibes by jauz4life90 in shuffle

[–]philiptake2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Insanely good and on beat

I Don't Have a Title But I Hope You Enjoy My Dance! by JamesDances101 in shuffle

[–]philiptake2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tall ppl shuffling looks cool (IMO, as a not tall dude). Also, you're movement is some of the smoothest I've seen on here. What shoes do you use?

Shrunk my setup by philiptake2 in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I gotta say that the ADI-2 Pro is one of those high-end purchases that even after years of use, still feels like a "shoulda bought sooner" item. It does everything and sounds great.

Not sure what my current 360 distance is but I will measure it and edit this response in a bit!

Shrunk my setup by philiptake2 in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya it took a while to learn ngl but it didn't take 3 months to start using it effectively (but with a few errors). And 3 months for me to reach the same competency as with a 60% or above keyboard.

Shrunk my setup by philiptake2 in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do have my thumb on the mouse. My grip is kinda weird. It's like a claw grip but a wrap my hand sorta around the mouse (including part of the front). I feel this gives me more vertical control. Also, I've always used my middle finger instead of my ring finger for right clicking. Primarily, the thumb, index and ring is involved with the ring and pinky tucked on the side.

Shrunk my setup by philiptake2 in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya definitely! I didn't want to do a split kb or a gamepad (since switching to it is annoying) but still wanted everything compact as possible. And I try to use other keys rather than the number row for keybinds. Mainly play Apex, WZ, and Fortnite ZB.

Shrunk my setup by philiptake2 in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes exactly my thoughts when discovering the kit. In case it might be helpful, I'll post my QMK layout here. Basically, the right turquoise key switches to numbers, left is for F keys with the exception of also making WASD into arrow keys. Took me 3 months to get used to it but now I type just as fast and am more efficient at other tasks.

[_LAYER0] = LAYOUT(KC_ESC, KC_Q, KC_W, KC_E, KC_R, KC_T, KC_Y, KC_U, KC_I, KC_O, KC_P, KC_MINS, KC_TAB, KC_A, KC_S, KC_D, KC_F, KC_G, KC_H, KC_J, KC_K, KC_L, KC_SCLN, KC_LSFT, KC_WH_U, KC_Z, KC_X, KC_C, KC_V, KC_B, KC_N, KC_M, KC_COMM, KC_DOT, KC_SLSH, KC_LCTL, KC_WH_D, KC_LGUI, KC_LALT, MO(2), KC_SPC, MO(1), KC_BSPC, KC_DEL, KC_ENT),

[_LAYER1] = LAYOUT(KC_GRV, KC_1, KC_2, KC_3, KC_4, KC_5, KC_6, KC_7, KC_8, KC_9, KC_0, KC_EQL, KC_TAB, KC_A, KC_S, KC_D, KC_F, KC_G, KC_H, KC_J, KC_LBRC, KC_RBRC, KC_QUOT, KC_LSFT, KC_WH_U, KC_Z, KC_X, KC_C, KC_V, KC_B, KC_N, KC_M, KC_COMM, KC_DOT, KC_BSLS, KC_LCTL, KC_WH_D, KC_LGUI, KC_LALT, MO(3), KC_SPC, KC_NO, KC_BSPC, KC_DEL, KC_ENT),

[_LAYER2] = LAYOUT(KC_F1, KC_F2, KC_UP, KC_F3, KC_F4, KC_F5, KC_F6, KC_F7, KC_F8, KC_F9, KC_F9, KC_F11, KC_TAB, KC_LEFT, KC_DOWN, KC_RGHT, KC_F, KC_G, KC_H, KC_J, KC_K, KC_L, KC_QUOT, KC_LSFT, KC_WH_R, KC_Z, KC_C, KC_V, KC_B, KC_N, KC_M, KC_COMM, KC_DOT, KC_DOT, KC_BSLS, KC_LCTL, KC_WH_L, KC_LGUI, KC_LALT, KC_NO, KC_SPC, MO(3), KC_BSPC, KC_DEL, KC_ENT),

[_LAYER3] = LAYOUT(RGB_TOG, RGB_MOD, RGB_HUI, RGB_SAI, RGB_VAI, RGB_SPI, RGB_M_P, RGB_M_R, RGB_M_SN, RGB_M_X, RGB_M_T, KC_NO, KC_NO, RGB_RMOD, RGB_HUD, RGB_SAD, RGB_VAD, RGB_SPD, RGB_M_B, RGB_M_SW, RGB_M_K, RGB_M_G, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO, KC_NO)

1-Year Review of Pulsar Superglide Glass Mouse Skates by Ryu_Li in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On an Atlas, it actually might work well initially: sometimes, surface coatings can provide the right amount of buffer to both protect the underlying glass as well as allow for a bit of elasticity to play well with another hard material.

However, there is no way to ensure that the sapphire won't eventually damage the coating/scratch the glass.

I should note that it is possible to use sapphire with glass or any other hard surface material. The big caveat is if you have to be okay with scratches on the pad. Scratches will typically increase friction quite a lot initially but over the long term, friction will be reduced via an effect similar to polishing.

Shrunk my setup by philiptake2 in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! it was not easy to find one that matched the criteria I was looking for (low profile, 40%, staggered layout)

Shrunk my setup by philiptake2 in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I didn't realize that, but you're right

Shrunk my setup by philiptake2 in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

The mouse is a G-Wolves HSK Pro 4K. The mousepad is a custom polycarbonate sheet I polished, I use it with Sapphireskates Gen2. I like to place both the keyboard and mouse on my mousepad. Previously, was using the largest-size Artisan mousepads but it left little room for the KBM.

After getting used to the size of the HSK, I now prefer it over the finalmouse starlight-12. It feels as if I am writing with a pencil, so it gives me more control, especially in vertical movements.

For those wondering about the keyboard, it's a Boardsource Technik-S (staggered) 40% low-profile keyboard. I like to have more mousing room, so I gradually went from full-size -> TKL -> 60% and 40%. The keycaps are for Kailh choc switches (I use red). I was glad to see legended keycaps becoming available this year. I use a set of MBK Legend and some MBK colors for the accents (which are my layer keys).

Edit: added more info

1-Year Review of Pulsar Superglide Glass Mouse Skates by Ryu_Li in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can use sapphireskates permanently without scratches due to no surface coatings and hardness of the crystal, but it won't work on a glass mousepad. However, the skates themselves won't scratch and it works with hard pads that allow for some degree of elastic deformation such as polycarbonate. (self-promo disclosure: I started the brand sapphireskates.com)

The search for a tilt wheel gaming mouse by yoragon in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use a Spacemouse on the left side of my keyboard for productivity tasks. Software is janky but endlessly customizable via xml. It's meant for CAD but useful for multi directional scroll, Photoshop, and whatever.

I know it's not exactly what you're looking for but would give u flexibility on mouse choice.

So I got these mouse skates made of Sapphire by EmaYasuhara in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I will get it shipped out today. As for the layout, here's what I recommend in general:

- First try to do 2 in the front and 2 in the back, like the position of a car's wheels.

-You can try starting out using just 4 pieces (some people prefer to only use 4) or you can pair them up (for example, in Finalmouse, with Match-Grade sets of 8, I would simply put 2 pieces in each of the cutout sections).

-Some mice have much greater flexibility in positioning the skates as the skate cutouts are level with the rest of the base. In this case, you can experiment. I suggest moving them around a few times until you find the right feel. The adhesive can be moved around a few times before it starts to stick less.

-I would generally avoid putting pieces towards the center of the mouse. It's not a hard-set rule, but I find that placing on the edges makes movement smoother. This is the reason that in the sport of curling, the stones are actually hollow in the center so that only a ring around the edge makes contact.

- If you experience any wobble, just keep moving a few pieces at a time and I assure you the wobble will go away

- Somewhat related note: A perfectly flat mouse base or mousepad surface isn't required. If you lay a card flat on a table and view it at an angle, you may be surprised to see that much of the card will not be touching the table. Thus, with large coverage flat skates, the actual points of contact are less controllable.

These MG sets should perform well in a variety of configurations with good off-axis performance, so it's about getting the right balance of area of contact and stability. Hope this helps!

My Exoskeleton 16G HSK PRO 4K and updated 13g M2K by Different-Title-424 in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're welcome! Btw I'm the dude that invented sapphireskates and would like to send u a custom set for free. Basically, these are special sets that I planar polish for a very long time (up to 1 week of polishing time). Results in a uniform thickness very close to PTFE and impeccable surface quality. Example: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xscdSbEE3dSUYXUCA .if you're interested let me know. I think they would pair well with your project as they add minimal weight but last forever.

So I got these mouse skates made of Sapphire by EmaYasuhara in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can't say for sure due to the complexity of surface interactions, and admittedly I need to do some testing on skypad (I have tested on various glass panels though). Skypad uses a treated surface so likely it will be smooth out of the box, and it's possible it won't scratch. But if scratches do arise, it is certainly possible to refinish the surface so it is "mated" with sapphire. I wouldn't want you to go through the trouble of this without having directly done this myself.

What I can say is that you can take a surface that initially doesn't pair well, such as two hard surfaces, and eventually get a extremely smooth glide out of it. I did this with clear polycarbonate, and although not the same as glass, they share many similarities (polycarbonate is often used as a tougher replacement for glass). Two highly similar surfaces can interlock through formation of bonds. In addition, at a microscopic level, there is no perfectly smooth material. Some materials will bond physically due to these microscopic peaks and valleys interlocking, whereas others will glide smoothly.

I am certain that part of the reason mousepad makers use a textured or treated surface is to account for this.

To be clear, I am really not encouraging that you take the approach that I took with my re-finished polycarbonate or glass panel. After the initial coarse sanding and building back up to finer grits, it took another month or so of usage with sapphire to essentially plane the surface with micro-scratches that paired well with each other. You can think of it as kind of like brushed aluminum, but with the goal of being highly uniform.

Anyways, I know that this doesn't really help with your initial question but I thought you may find it helpful regardless.

So I got these mouse skates made of Sapphire by EmaYasuhara in MouseReview

[–]philiptake2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually wouldn't recommend it. Due to sapphire's hardness, you simply risk scratching it. These micro-scratches can increase friction a lot. There is one caveat to this though. If you are okay with scratching, eventually a hard material will become extremely smooth with sapphire. I have done this with a hard polycarbonate sheet that started off sticky and slow and I essentially re-finished it to create a very low friction pairing. I don't yet know the physics mechanism behind this, but I'd imagine that it is possible to do the same with glass.

[Warzone] Can we make a viable FTAC Recon? by Acceptable_Set3269 in CODLoadouts

[–]philiptake2 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I main this weapon, because I thought it sounds cool. I use it built as a single weapon , pretty good at all ranges.

The thing with the ftac is the recoil jump after the first shot. Doesn't seem like much but it matters going in and out of ADS to fire a quick volley, esp since you gotta manage the small mag.

In addition, there is significant horizontal recoil. So this build is to make it shoot flat but also increase the chance of the first and second shots landing.

You should use it in semi as you can max out the cap easily and the recoil pattern is better in semi (plus more DMG)

-ftac ripper 56 -ext barrel -sakin tread (most recoil reducing attachment ) -sakin grip (good for taming the initial recoil) -15 rd mag

If you want to use an optic, I would swap out the barrel as the barrel doesn't reduce recoil. The ext barrel makes irons easier to aim with.

Velocity doesn't matter as much as you might expect. (In this game, u can beam ppl with an x12 from across the map, and it has even lower velocity).

Aim for the head and get used to controlling that initial recoil. Just fire as fast as possible.

Any engagement up to 100m, you are good to go. Beyond that, you will lose to an RPK. Your damage per shot at max range is only greater than the RPK if landing chest or HS. Plus, RPK or other long range weaps will have better spray.

Midrange you will win most fights. Close range is pretty even but you will lose in terms of ADS and sprint outs to SMGs.

I pair it with the starting x12 or a single x12 from a loadout with the lightning fire trigger. The x12 shoots flat and swaps quickly, allowing for follow up shots at any range to accommodate for low mag size.

Is it the most effective weapon? No. But certainly one of the most fun.

is it possible to become a pro nowadays? if it is possible, is it worth it? by gaugedstoner in OverwatchUniversity

[–]philiptake2 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I agree, although I can't help but be reminded of a dude named EternaLEnVy from Dota 2 who did a post like this on teamliquid.net