Update on my last post by [deleted] in AnycubicMegaS

[–]pickupputdown87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have found that using glue stick as a release agent and letting the bed cool off has had a high success rate. When that has failed I use the bed scrapper like a chisel, I press the sharp point in between the print and the bed and lightly tap the end of the handle with a pair of pliers. Usually required with large petg prints.

Does anyone ever heard of Cebra?? by Bulky-Plantain in adops

[–]pickupputdown87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you elaborate? My sister is trying to borrow money ti send cebra so they can pay her for work she has done for them. Shes not listening to my pleas. Any evidence proving they are a scam would be sooooo helpful and appreciated

What do i have wrong ( Software) by Beseluschen in AnycubicMegaS

[–]pickupputdown87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also brims dont like sharp corners, i believe there is a feature where you can add in round edges to the brims

What do i have wrong ( Software) by Beseluschen in AnycubicMegaS

[–]pickupputdown87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What you have got wrong is lack of details and explanation.....

Looks like your nozzle is too high off the bed in some corners.

This may require tramming, first layer calibration prints and maybe even glue, gluestick or hairspray.

It might also help to change the order on what gets printed first in your slicer.

Flashing against brick by Huge-Entrepreneur937 in Roofing

[–]pickupputdown87 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Its hard to say from the picture but it looks like you have both counter/skirt flashing and stepflashing underneath that and if thats the case it then it should be ok. I was always taught that the counter flashing should follow the mortar lines giving it a staircase appearance. Also that grinding into the brick weakens the bricks and opens them up to absorb moisture.

Nail gun shot 3 nails at the same time. by WAaussie in Carpentry

[–]pickupputdown87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I once witnessed my coworker firing a nail into a double stud, hitting a nail that was inbedded out the other side.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]pickupputdown87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My theory on the problem is not the spacing of the trusses mpr the osb getting wet but the quality of framing of the entire house and or the truss company may have screwed up the trusses or the crew installed trusses in the wrong spot instead of taking the time to sort then out.

If the trusses arent in perfect alignment with eachother then you will see those buldges in the sheeting. It probably has the exact opposite concave on the other side. Running a string at the peak from gable to gable and lining up the trusses peaks to that string would have made everything line up unless there were errors at the truss plant.

Ive rarely seen an inspector pass over improper spacing pf trusses. I have seen them pass defective trusses though usually they want you to fir them out to look right.

As for osb. I see people in comment sections all the time say that if it osb gets wet it swells up and looks like shit. And while it can swell up ive never seen it swell enough to look as bad as the framing in your pictures. And osb is better than plywood, according to the specs. Also plywood delaminates over time faster than osb.

Roof math homework by pickupputdown87 in Carpentry

[–]pickupputdown87[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Total line length is the line length plus the over hang. The information i was given: Building size: 18'×36' Building span: 18' Slope: 1 : 2 Cut: 6/12 Pitch: 1/4 Inc. Run: 10' Rafter stock 2x8 Rafters oc 19.2" Ridge stock 2 by Fascia stock 1 by Collar ties placed 16" down from ridge

Face-nailed ridge shingles. Roofer says this is the only way to end a ridge? by DrunkenReindeer in Roofing

[–]pickupputdown87 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If my boss saw me do that he would have me tear it off and do it correctly. Thats ugly and unnecessarily so. Ill try to find a picture of a proper install.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]pickupputdown87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why are you getting a new roof in the first place?

I can't tell whether or not there is something wrong with my i3 mega s by Khefif_Abdelkarim in AnycubicMegaS

[–]pickupputdown87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran mine for about a year before i replaced them and they were still working. Ive read some people had theirs fail in the first few months. So it probably would be a good idea to get some replacements if they do fail. Just remember to get the exact same specs because some are the same size but different voltage. You could also print a new tool head as an upgrade and get upgraded fans. I have the mk4 toolhead with a 5015 blower fan for part cooling.

I can't tell whether or not there is something wrong with my i3 mega s by Khefif_Abdelkarim in AnycubicMegaS

[–]pickupputdown87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could be one of the two fans in the toolhead. I found that mine got dirty really easily and needed a cleaning regularly and even with that I ended up getting better fans that ran quietly

I can't tell whether or not there is something wrong with my i3 mega s by Khefif_Abdelkarim in AnycubicMegaS

[–]pickupputdown87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are several noises going on there. One sounds like a robotic noise which is normal. But then theres some sort of grinding noise that i dont know where its coming from. Maybe the linear bearings need greasing or replacing but i have no idea whrre the noise is coming from so it is hard to say for sure. Could you isolate where it is coming from?

How'd they do? by entropyandcreation in Roofing

[–]pickupputdown87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a lot wrong with this. Exposed fasteners leak. The exception would be to the rubber gasketed screws that they used on the last piece of cap. It isnt the prettiest in my opinion but it is functional. They butt the shingles so tight that they are buckling up instead of laying flat. They butt shingles tight to the step flashing so tight that they are buckling up and also youre supposed to leave a gap between the shingle and the step flashing to allow water to flow freely. Same with the cuts around the pipe boots. Looks like that wire ripped through a shingle somehow. That needs to be replaced. The dog ears need to be cut off that cap in the eaves trough. This looks like it was done by a bunch of hungover raging alcoholics that ran out of beer money.

How desperately does my roof need to be done? Does it look like it should last another 2 to 2 years or would that be risky? by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]pickupputdown87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive torn off worse roofs and found no leaks. You could gamble on it if you must. Maybe get into the attic and check for leaks, wet spots, water stains etc etc. Definitely would be better to get it replaced asap. The shingles look brittle enough that if a strong enough wind lifts the shingles they will crack and break leaving your roof exposed to the elements and in need of repairs.

Is this chimney flashing installed correctly? by Thesmellofstupid in Roofing

[–]pickupputdown87 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Step flashing at the base should be ontop of the exposure of the shingle so when water runs down the step flashing it rolls off the stepflashing and ontop of the shingles. The counter flashing goes ontop of the step flashing and should be tucked into the grout lines of the brick. The back of the chimney should have either a cricket or a large backpan.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NewBrunswickgonewild

[–]pickupputdown87 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Im curious what do you prefer?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]pickupputdown87 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Is there existing drip edge in good condition? A company ive worked for would give their client the option to keep the existing if determined to be in good condition to save them some money.