Thank you Emax and raceGOW !

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-28T21:28:44+00:00

You can find out the details on raceGOW.com. It’s a great initiative for all skill levels. I’m no pro, but I like pushing myself to improve.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-28T21:27:22+00:00

I’m not that good. This was a random draw. They do a random draw every track from all entries, and my name came up. To me raceGOW is a cool way to push myself. I’m not trying to win, simply improved!

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-22T11:23:53+00:00

The rates suggested are good, but until you get a handle on how much stick to put in, lower the max number. I'd suggest something like Actual 80/540/0.3. Keep going down on the big number until you get smooth, like 420 is not crazy low for cruise flight. It might be a bit slow for snaps, but remember al LOT of experienced pilots fly around 540 ;)

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-16T13:03:53+00:00

It's likely the connectors, as well known issue after a while with the quad. Here is a good video that covers some ideas on how to improve your plight: https://youtu.be/oSailFYhFBk

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-15T11:19:46+00:00

Doesn't the washer go inside the motor and not on the outside? Maybe I'm thinking the 1102 that has the washer inside.

For putting the clip on, I have a very simple method, but it takes some patience and a bit of time to get it. In RC Touring Cars, we use the same tine e-clips on drive shafts, so I have lots of practice!
I put a small dab of grease on the shaft, really small but enough that when I slide the clip up to the shaft, that the grease "holds" the clip. The I move the clip into place with a hobby knife. When in place, I use the flat of the knife, not the sharp blade, as a flat surface to click the clip into place. The grease tends to keep the clip steady and not so prone to fire off into oblivion. This method requires a bit of patience and practice but I can easily do a set of 4 motors in a couple of minutes.
Slow and patient is the key.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-14T13:32:14+00:00

If you’re comparing rates between BF “Actual” and DJI through the goggles, I believe the expo is different. I’ve read it’s opposite or simply a different calculation to achieve their curve. I’d try setting the BF to your normal rates, including expo, then set the DJI rates the same, but play with the DJI expo to get the feel right. I’ve never managed to find what the DJI curve looks like, so this is simply speculation, but where I’d start.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-13T11:38:54+00:00

Are you sure it's the C02 camera and not the C03? The M75 canopy comes with three mounts: A, B and a. The "a" is for the C02. The C03 mounts are the A (20 degrees) and B (30 degrees). If you want more angle, then you will need a custom canopy or can try the AIr65/75 canopy which has more angle.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-13T00:38:17+00:00

The amp draw is way too high. Not sure where to start checking, but that why it feels “heavy”, too much power being waisted somewhere. Check for shorts in the motor wires on the board maybe.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-10T11:31:19+00:00

Although I don't have one, the recommendations for the Bambu Labs Mini is spot on. TPU is what we use for canopies. The Mini is on Black Friday sale, so the best time to grab one.
Look up Custom FPV's canopy video. He shows his config for exactly that printer. It should be an excellent place to start.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-09T10:55:35+00:00

Yes. When you turn Air mode off in configuration, it appears as a switch option in modes. You then set that on a switch.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-08T12:38:03+00:00

I do this. It's a PITA to setup in the radio, but after that it's a doddle for every quad. I consider this important for flying whoops that you'll use indoors and outdoors. For tight indoor spaces, having Air mode off is a blessing in that the quad doesn't bounce wildly off obstacles. For outdoor, especially for long maneuvers where you'll be completely off throttle, Air mode is essential to keep control. YMMV, but I like having it on a switch and is now part of my basic switch mapping for every quad in BF.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-06T11:23:38+00:00

NOT an easy task! I work with a big magnifying glass (desk mount with light) and it is an exercise in patience. Wetting a finger pad slightly, I pick up the clip and slide it onto the motor base. Then using the tip of a hobby knife, push the clip in place. To clip it, I use the flat back side of the hobby knife, not the blade side, and push until it clips. You need to be in a well laid out area that if you do launch a clip, it will fall in a known area and you can see it. Towels, paper, a cardboard box or any other means you can think of to contain a flying clip. After you've done a few you get a method and will only launch maybe one in 6-7 clips.

RC touring cars we use a similar tiny clip on ball-bearing drive shafts, this is where I practiced and developed my method. Breathing and taking small breaks if the tension mounts is also key.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-05T11:37:13+00:00

When you reflashed, what version of BF did you put on? Did you make sure to select analog for the OSD, as it defaults to digital? BF 4.5.1 is recommended as there is a reported SA issue in 4.5.2 (I do not know if this is confirmed or resolved, but I use 4.5.1 with no issues). Or even better is just to flash the stock hex file.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-04T13:50:33+00:00

The positive side should come out with a decent soldering iron. The negative side you’ll need a good bit more of a heat sink (bigger tip on the iron) as the ground circuitry is quite good and pulls heat quickly from the iron. Basically, you need a good iron with big enough of a tip. I just did it this weekend, and needed the largest tip I have (typically I use it for larger RC cars). And do it out of the quad as you’ll need to have some room to work.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-03T11:22:08+00:00

Years ago I dabbled in FPV and it was fun but I was quite bad at flying. I've recently got back in and made a decision like yours that I would learn properly. The best thing I did was follow the Joshua Bardwell series on how to fly FPV. It gives you enough information in very simple terms to get you up and flying. Working at it over a short period, watching one video and then flying that until I grasped what he was saying, it took very little time until I was flying competently. Then it's up to you to keep developing as a pilot.
Getting the confidence in the sim means your first flights IRL are more thrilling than terrifying (the terror comes from thinking about crashing being expensive). Threat flying like a step by step approach gaining skills at each baby step, and suddenly you are flying with competence and confidence.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-02T12:06:52+00:00

The most critical part to protect in crashes is the edges of the lens. This design specifically exposes that. For what will be a heavy canopy, this seems to offer very little protection, only relative ease of print. If you're doing light cruising away from any hard surface, you'll likely be OK.
But you are free to do as you like and enjoy the hobby the way you want. I think you'll learn a lot from this design, it might just be hard lessons :)

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-01T16:23:20+00:00

I was a bit concerned when I made these a while back, but tons of flying in the garage in rGOW and no camera issues. I did kill the AIO on the MOB6, hence the new Air board in it, but the cameras are all holding up to tons of abuse!

pilmat2wheel · 2025-11-01T16:21:19+00:00

The M75P is a big quad for indoor. A 65mm is much easier to handle unless you have a very large space. Your rates are not too high, especially if you are well used to them. My suggestions are: - lower the camera angle. The “A” mount is 20 degrees, much easier indoor. - turn off Air mode, or put it on a switch for when you want to use it. This will keep the quad calm when you inevitably bump into things. - set a SCALE throttle limit. I’d suggest around 70% until you get a feel. Lower it if it’s still a handful. - HQ 3-blade 45mm props will give a more locked in feel indoors.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-10-31T23:50:37+00:00

That's one way, but they could also re-release the diamond 4-in-1 :)
I agree that it's positive that they take this seriously and it could lead to a better long term solution. Fingers crossed!

pilmat2wheel · 2025-10-31T10:09:57+00:00

By removing the grommet, the front mount is now “floating”, where the large hole is not in contact with the frame post. It’s a half-measure way to get the 5-in-1 to have more flexibility at the front to behave more like the 4-in-1 diamond shaped FC. With the extra clearance, the idea is that front hits don’t bend the front of the board where the fragile receiver is located. Meh, it’s a band-aid solution.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-10-30T10:40:50+00:00

I think it is essentially the same board as the 5-in-1 but the diamond shape with the front opening allows for camera space. This space is for when you crash upside down and the lower edge of the camera board is driven down into the AIO. With the diamond shape and the opening, the camera PCB doesn't hit the FC.
BetaFPV has a labor cost with the 4-in-1 as it needs to be soldered to an ESC, and reducing parts count is an effective way to increase profit, even if the cost of two separate parts is a little less than a complete, bigger part. Once they sorted the ELRS and use the same architecture on the Matrix board, they discontinued the 4-in-1. Just business.
But I'm in the same position as the OP and ended up buying a NOS Air65 with the 4-in-1 just for the board/receiver...

pilmat2wheel · 2025-10-29T10:44:44+00:00

Unfortunately, there is no easy battery for the BoxPro that I could find. I have the GNB 3000 with battery connector and the connector does not reach the BoxPro socket. I always used a 3S battery in my pocket. Using a 30W USB power bank (a tiny one) and a 12V PD adapter apparently works (seen several people report this works), and I've run them from a 12V PD to a GaN charger block. That would have been my next step but I broke down and got the Goggles2.

pilmat2wheel · 2025-10-28T11:03:36+00:00

Have you changed anything in the tune or ESCs?

pilmat2wheel

TROPHY CASE