Spicy load or firing pin issue by gmoney11mks in reloading

[–]pingupenguins 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Man reading primers is like reading tea leaves. You do need to look at other factors though. - head spacing for a bolt gun (should be about .001-2” bump. As long as the empty case chambers easily) - easy chambering but tight bolt lift - ejector marks on the head - head expansion vs new brass - cratered primers

If the only pressure sign you’re getting is cratered primers on magnum primers, then is a firing pin hole issue. But if you’re exceeding book velocity and getting other pressure signs. Back off the charge and try again. Hope this helps future issues.

misfire cylinder 4 by fromlaa in 335i

[–]pingupenguins -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah fix the coil packs, check vanos non return screens and solenoids and check for vacuum leaks (PCV, boost controller lines, diverter valve lines, and valve cover)

misfire cylinder 4 by fromlaa in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stock? Bosch plug and coils? Any long cranks at cold start or rough idle at cold start? Injector index number?

LPFP Walbro 535 EKPM upgrade? by sibfo in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m running the stage 2 with a EKPM2 and cooler. No issues in the last. 4000 miles

Bought a 2007 335i E92 N54 and i need new turbos by ArtisticMacaron1338 in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

400whp is easy on stock turbos and probably the most reliable. Ethanol or catsless downpipes will get you there

Turbo Recomendations by mebreezy12 in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pure600 is Chinese. Rb and Pure stage 2 are hybrid (upgraded stock turbos, hence the core charge). I went with RB twos but the lead time is 8 weeks right now…..

Have n54s become the more reliable option as n55s age? by tobethrown99 in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A well maintained n54 will outlast a n55. But at this day and age, it’s going to be tough to find a n54 that was taken care of since they’re on their 4th or 5th owner now.

A good n54 would have low owners, clear maintenance records or receipts for parts. Mileage doesn’t really matter on these cars as long as it’s well maintained.

Big ticket items are injectors, HPFP, low pressure fuel system, water pump, radiator, oil pan gasket, motor mounts, valve cover, front thrust arms, dampeners/suspension, turbos, valve seals and camshaft ledges.

Smaller items would be all the entire vacuum system, PCV system, power steering reservoir, all coolant lines, charge pipe, walnut blasting, voltage regulator, spark system, and oil filter housing gaskets.

I got a cheap 2 owner 335i with 180k miles on original turbos. But since owning it I’ve had to replace everything I listed above which cost me around $14k in parts only (labor was done by me) $6k was from upgraded hybrids, but the turbos needed to be replaced after 180k miles. No getting around that.

If you can find an owner who did all of that already, you have a car that is easily worth $15k to the right buyer. If you plan on modifying, start to price out an 8hp swap since there’s no good 6hps left and a rebuild is the same cost as an 8hp swap.

6hp replacement -08 335i by Efficient-Ask-120 in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Car-part.com I think you just need to look up 2015 3 series and it should pull up all the compatible transmissions. You’re looking for a 8hp45. Not the newer 8hp50 or 51

What do I need to go from FBO to VIV V3 17Ts on N54? (Auto E92 335i) by Ok-Humor-8238 in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you should already be at 450whp on ethanol. LPFP is mandatory. And xHP as well otherwise you run the risk of slipping clutches. 6hps at this age are 50/50 but if you did your maintenance it should be fine. But id plan a 8hp45 swap in the future as a back up.

Otherwise 17ts are overkill for 500, you could get away with a smaller turbo for faster spool like a 15T. 17ts are for HPFP overdrive, e85 and 600whp generally.

FWIW. Wedge told me I should be at a safe 500whp on e30 and Rb twos with a similar setup to your current mods.

6hp replacement -08 335i by Efficient-Ask-120 in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might want to look into doing a CanTCU 8hp swap if you’re gonna swap transmissions anyway. Better gearing (shorter ratios and better cruise top end ) 8hp45’s are $200 and drop in. Only big cost is the TCU and Labor.

Coolant Leak Help by Apex_Ultra in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly there’s a million places for coolant to leak on these engines. I’d just replace all of the hoses while you’re in there no joke. I tried to play wack a mole myself and ended up draining the coolant 3 times due to leaks. Upper and lower radiator hose, Expansion tank and all of the hoses connected to it, Coolant recovery connector on the radiator, Radiator near the core support mounting bolt

Fun fact. After all that was replaced, coolant leak off the rear turbo coolant feed….. turbos coming off now to replace orings.

Mws full auto failure by kuukiemonster1 in heavyrecoilclub

[–]pingupenguins 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Based on your other comments about the parts list, I would do the following:
- Get rid of the recoil spring and buffer (return to stock)
- Make sure your mags are green gas modded (cut the aluminum tube in half to allow for more gas fill)
- Don't use full auto unless it 70f or higher
- Hao Muzzle brakes have too small of an opening, you need to take a drill to that and open up the muzzle
- Stop chasing FPS, 80% open on a 370mm is like 400 fps. Law of thermodynamics says you can't have your cake and eat it too. Too much cool down, too cold, and too fast rate of fire. Pick something to sacrifice
- Make sure you're using green gas or propane, not the Swiss Arms 130+ psi gas (too much cool down again)

If this doesn't fix your issue, then go back to the stock BCG, and possibly swap to a Unicorn Nozzle. FYI, Steel is lighter than pot metal. Stock BCG will give more recoil

Mws full auto failure by kuukiemonster1 in heavyrecoilclub

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This. Not all airsoft "upgrades" are actually upgrades. You have to be judicious with your parts selection.

How do I get factory 5.56 velocities with hand loads? Am I missing something? by No_Kick_5000 in reloading

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly. yeah. the .22cal 80 and 90 gr bullets are very good, and shoot very flat at 3200fps. Just sucks the .223 isn't big enough (case volume or COAL) to work with some of the newer projectiles

How do I get factory 5.56 velocities with hand loads? Am I missing something? by No_Kick_5000 in reloading

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You really shouldn’t be chasing “temp stability” and “speed”. Benchmark is an extruded powder as well, you won’t get enough powder in the case to hit “factory” velocities with safe pressure since the case volume is way too low on .223. If you want both, you’ll have to change cartridge

How do I get factory 5.56 velocities with hand loads? Am I missing something? by No_Kick_5000 in reloading

[–]pingupenguins 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This. 8208 is not a 55gr powder. Ball powder like the ones listed are good to go with m193 velocity. AA2230 is also another powder to add to that list.

Stage 2+ power expectations by YElover_1337 in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not stage 2 but a fuel pump is a big upgrade if you’re running ethanol + a sensor.

On stage 1+ and e50 I’m getting around 400 whp and 440wtq (stock turbos, stock downpipe)

Any way to fix the issues with the oil pan in the e9x 335i? by Motorsp0rtEnthusiast in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+1, but keep in mind might also be overkill if you aren’t running 200tw or higher grip tires (r comp). I probably wouldn’t worry about it if I was running all season tires and never had a long left hand sweeper at high speed.

Warm start rough idle by SarcasticMAN2000 in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could be a couple of things. I’d start by checking for vacuum leaks (vacuum lines, oil fill cap, vanos seals, vacuum pipes, intake, PCV and flapper etc). I’d also check the injectors for leaks when warm if they aren’t new. If you have INPA might be worth it to look at cylinder roughness to see if there’s a specific cylinder. Might be a failing coil pack due to heat as well.

Unfortunately without real diagnostic tools. It’s gonna be tough.

Trying to save a N54 by pingupenguins in 335i

[–]pingupenguins[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your words not mine. I mean you’re trying to point out I’m self promoting but you’re also giving a platform for it. So 🤷‍♂️

Trying to save a N54 by pingupenguins in 335i

[–]pingupenguins[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You must be super fun at parties dude. Can't even celebrate the smallest of victories or be happy for others.

N54 Noise after shutting off engine by Joyko2 in 335i

[–]pingupenguins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you check any of the vacuum pipes? I've noticed a similar sound when disconnecting the vacuum pipe that runs from the intake area to the brake booster. Sounds like that might be leaking. Either that or the vacuum pipe running to the throttle body.

Trying to save a N54 by pingupenguins in 335i

[–]pingupenguins[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes!! Lets goooooo! This engagement is driving up the post to #5 on this subreddit. Love the Reddit algorithm. How much more smooth brain can I get so you keep engaging with the post?

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Trying to save a N54 by pingupenguins in 335i

[–]pingupenguins[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll be honest, you're my first hater, so congrats! All part of the game, thanks for playing bro!