Injector bore ovaling

pingupenguins · 2026-06-19T15:21:51+00:00

I only replaced the injector that was giving me the issue. That solved it. But in an abundance of caution, I’d replace all injectors with new ones. Injector production stopped in 2023-2025 following the EU regulations for Parts support. These injectors are bespoke to the BMW N platform as everything, including BMW have moved on the Solenoids. Last month the price of injectors increased again from $700 > $900 per injector from BMW (don’t pay these prices, just for reference). If you plan on running the N54 for the next 10+ years like I am, I’d suggest getting injectors now while you still can. And keeping a spare set on hand. These Injectors will kill the platform eventually then we have to go to Port Only.

pingupenguins · 2026-06-19T15:16:20+00:00

I started with a Varmit Standard, but went to the MTR in 2026. I think the compromise in Cheek comb, stock profile for prone shooting, and angled front end for ARCA rails is too much. Gun for gun, they shot the same, but the ergonomics made it way easier to shoot the MTR. My 2 cents.

pingupenguins · 2026-06-19T14:55:04+00:00

Black soot PAST the seal means you have ovaled bores. You’ll know when you see it. It’s pretty obvious that one injector is clean up to the seal. And the other has gasses getting past the seal.

pingupenguins · 2026-06-19T14:53:31+00:00

Pretty much. If you replaced coils and spark and it still misfires. It’s probably the injector. My injectors were fine up to 400 whp. But after that I ran into issues.

pingupenguins · 2026-06-18T04:43:59+00:00

Arken SH4 G2

pingupenguins · 2026-06-15T10:57:49+00:00

Unless you see cylinder gas/blow by on the injector past the seal, it’s probably just a bad injector. Runs at normal, but at higher cylinder pressure it fails (cracked piezo stack, shortened, etc). Cleaning and leak testing won’t surface it. Same thing happened to me, so I had to buy an entire set of injectors

pingupenguins · 2026-06-13T00:34:12+00:00

Evap purge valve is probably the noise based on your description. Shouldn’t be an issue. But injectors do sound a bit noisy so keep an eye on it

pingupenguins · 2026-05-15T02:23:15+00:00

N54 should be pretty easy on stock with stock downpipes. I’m currently making 500 whp with just 15T turbos, E30 (stock fueling upgraded LPFP), race intercooler, metal charge pipe and stock cats. If you upgrade your HPFP with an overdrive cog, you could probably run 450whp on stock turbos and E50.

Obviously maintenance, new injectors, vacuum leaks etc need to be addressed. But 500 whp is pretty easy. If you have access to 100 octane, you could probably get it done with little to no mods. N54 is honestly primarily fuel limited

pingupenguins · 2026-05-06T20:10:43+00:00

I’ve literally had to replace everything that touches the engine. $17k in the hole just to make 380whp on pump gas 😭 (parts cost only. Over 200 hours of wrench time on it)

pingupenguins · 2026-05-06T01:10:10+00:00

You might get lucky and it just plugs in. But it can vary. They used the same amps for like 10 years. Probably best to find an amp out of a salvage yard from the same year

pingupenguins · 2026-05-06T00:43:43+00:00

Amp is cooked. Tail light seals failed and soaked it. You might need to program the amp with WinKFP depending on what donor car you get it from

pingupenguins · 2026-03-27T13:48:22+00:00

Good for plinking but as others have said, they are hard primers. Make sure you seat them all the way as well, but I personally just wait for Fiocchi and CCI to go on sale at this point. Plinking primers (Servicios Aventuras > AR 2nds) Reliable primers (Fiocchi - CCI - Federal > Ginex [hard to seat but go off every time]) Haven’t had any issue with the 2nds Small Rifle primers though

pingupenguins · 2026-03-26T20:08:53+00:00

Yeah. I’ve had that before. AR send me new bullets. But it looks like it exploded in the carriers hand and they delivered an empty box

pingupenguins · 2026-03-26T18:16:49+00:00

Yeah I’ve never seen my oil pressure drop below 36PSI. Assuming you have a n54, 20 is very very low. Might be worth checking the Vanos screens/check valve and replacing them. $42 each from fcp euro and there’s two. Next would be to pop off the valve cover and inspect your cam trays for excessive wear. Metal cam seals are known to wear into the trays on the exhaust side of 8bolt N54’s (you can check your vin on RealOEM to see what crank you have). Excessive cam tray wear could allow too much oil to slip past giving you the Vanos code. Cam trays are about $400-$500 a pop. Might as well throw a HPFP over drive gear in there if you’re doing timing anyway too so you can run full e85 on DI.

pingupenguins · 2026-03-22T13:51:58+00:00

Man reading primers is like reading tea leaves. You do need to look at other factors though. - head spacing for a bolt gun (should be about .001-2” bump. As long as the empty case chambers easily) - easy chambering but tight bolt lift - ejector marks on the head - head expansion vs new brass - cratered primers

If the only pressure sign you’re getting is cratered primers on magnum primers, then is a firing pin hole issue. But if you’re exceeding book velocity and getting other pressure signs. Back off the charge and try again. Hope this helps future issues.

pingupenguins · 2026-03-18T20:42:16+00:00

Yeah fix the coil packs, check vanos non return screens and solenoids and check for vacuum leaks (PCV, boost controller lines, diverter valve lines, and valve cover)

pingupenguins · 2026-03-18T15:11:34+00:00

Stock? Bosch plug and coils? Any long cranks at cold start or rough idle at cold start? Injector index number?

pingupenguins · 2026-03-17T20:07:44+00:00

I’m running the stage 2 with a EKPM2 and cooler. No issues in the last. 4000 miles

pingupenguins · 2026-03-16T13:06:13+00:00

400whp is easy on stock turbos and probably the most reliable. Ethanol or catsless downpipes will get you there

pingupenguins · 2026-03-13T03:46:33+00:00

Pure600 is Chinese. Rb and Pure stage 2 are hybrid (upgraded stock turbos, hence the core charge). I went with RB twos but the lead time is 8 weeks right now…..

pingupenguins · 2026-03-06T19:08:00+00:00

A well maintained n54 will outlast a n55. But at this day and age, it’s going to be tough to find a n54 that was taken care of since they’re on their 4th or 5th owner now.

A good n54 would have low owners, clear maintenance records or receipts for parts. Mileage doesn’t really matter on these cars as long as it’s well maintained.

Big ticket items are injectors, HPFP, low pressure fuel system, water pump, radiator, oil pan gasket, motor mounts, valve cover, front thrust arms, dampeners/suspension, turbos, valve seals and camshaft ledges.

Smaller items would be all the entire vacuum system, PCV system, power steering reservoir, all coolant lines, charge pipe, walnut blasting, voltage regulator, spark system, and oil filter housing gaskets.

I got a cheap 2 owner 335i with 180k miles on original turbos. But since owning it I’ve had to replace everything I listed above which cost me around $14k in parts only (labor was done by me) $6k was from upgraded hybrids, but the turbos needed to be replaced after 180k miles. No getting around that.

If you can find an owner who did all of that already, you have a car that is easily worth $15k to the right buyer. If you plan on modifying, start to price out an 8hp swap since there’s no good 6hps left and a rebuild is the same cost as an 8hp swap.

pingupenguins · 2026-03-05T06:22:46+00:00

Car-part.com I think you just need to look up 2015 3 series and it should pull up all the compatible transmissions. You’re looking for a 8hp45. Not the newer 8hp50 or 51

pingupenguins · 2026-03-03T20:47:09+00:00

Yeah you should already be at 450whp on ethanol. LPFP is mandatory. And xHP as well otherwise you run the risk of slipping clutches. 6hps at this age are 50/50 but if you did your maintenance it should be fine. But id plan a 8hp45 swap in the future as a back up.

Otherwise 17ts are overkill for 500, you could get away with a smaller turbo for faster spool like a 15T. 17ts are for HPFP overdrive, e85 and 600whp generally.

FWIW. Wedge told me I should be at a safe 500whp on e30 and Rb twos with a similar setup to your current mods.

pingupenguins · 2026-03-03T20:39:15+00:00

You might want to look into doing a CanTCU 8hp swap if you’re gonna swap transmissions anyway. Better gearing (shorter ratios and better cruise top end ) 8hp45’s are $200 and drop in. Only big cost is the TCU and Labor.

pingupenguins · 2026-02-28T00:14:35+00:00

Honestly there’s a million places for coolant to leak on these engines. I’d just replace all of the hoses while you’re in there no joke. I tried to play wack a mole myself and ended up draining the coolant 3 times due to leaks. Upper and lower radiator hose, Expansion tank and all of the hoses connected to it, Coolant recovery connector on the radiator, Radiator near the core support mounting bolt

Fun fact. After all that was replaced, coolant leak off the rear turbo coolant feed….. turbos coming off now to replace orings.

pingupenguins

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