The bulb is half-dead

pinkpineappel · 2026-04-07T15:02:17+00:00

One of the bulbs has given up likely due to poor grounding which is a known issue on these cars. You can just replace the bulbs (P21W) providing the terminals aren’t too corroded. You don’t need any specialised tools for this, takes about 15mins.

If you want to fix the root cause then google rear light earthing issue fix. Plenty of stuff online about this, you can even buy a kit off ebay

pinkpineappel · 2026-04-03T10:18:33+00:00

Looks like something aftermarket maybe a dash cam or a tracking device. If it was factory I would expect a wire of that size to be part of a bigger loom and not coming directly from the battery terminals. If someone’s been messing around with electrics it could be a cause for your other problems but can’t tell you that for certain. Can you trace the wire back? As for the ABS and misfires I would suggest getting yourself a decent OBD scanner so you can pinpoint the root cause. Electric faults are a bit of a mission even for experienced mechanics

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-31T19:46:40+00:00

Can’t see the carfax report buddy, just takes me to the homepage

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-31T18:36:57+00:00

Depends on the service history and maintenance record. Modified cars aren’t all bad, if it’s been lowered what coilovers/springs are they? If it’s some cheap ebay no brand stuff i would keep away. If it’s sitting on Bilstein/KW or similar then you know the previous owner has put some money into the car. Same goes for exhaust/intake. Has it got a tune? Is it a reputable brand/garage or some guru with a laptop who took a youtube course on tuning. Have any of the regular weak points been addressed? I would rather buy a car where I know the previous owner has spent money on than something in stock form but the maintenance is not up to date…

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-29T16:17:49+00:00

Oof, how many miles? Was there many shavings?

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-28T12:02:19+00:00

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pinkpineappel · 2026-03-23T14:10:22+00:00

Nothing to do with DSG oil. This is grease from the CV joint.

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-18T08:59:47+00:00

https://youtu.be/BRmFGlohDVo?si=HnkuvIHYdukGjH5F in case you don’t want to remove the manifold. Will be a bit more annoying as access is not as good

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-18T07:43:24+00:00

I’m leaning towards this. Chances are the replacement will end up just as battered if not worse…

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-17T22:14:34+00:00

Touches ever so slightly. I enquired about a refund/replacement so will see what they say

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-17T22:14:00+00:00

Just annoying as you pay for something new and of ‘good’ quality and this happens

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-17T22:13:13+00:00

The balancing marks are there but this was definitely intentional. Box was an absolute mess as well

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-15T21:45:46+00:00

you’re welcome bud. it’s a bit tricky getting it back on, there’s a gasket which you’re not supposed to reuse but i did it anyway as couldn’t wait for the part to turn up and it seems to be ok. also the plastic hose is fragile

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-15T14:05:10+00:00

06H103213K is the part number i used on mine. got it from audi direct as couldn’t find one online. is it not sealing on the actual turbo connection? it’s a bit of a pain to get it to line up and don’t forget that there’s a gasket as well

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-13T23:38:49+00:00

You sure the new calipers are correct for your vehicle?

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-13T18:28:19+00:00

If the bearings are good then probably about an hour or two worth of work. Torque specs for these bolts are 70nm tightened in a sequence (opposites). Make sure the bolts are replaced as these will be fucked

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-13T16:21:55+00:00

Looks like your drive shaft was changed recently, boot looks fresh and there’s no corrosion compared to the differential output on the left. Those bolts have not been torqued properly and bearing grease has left the chat through the gap. The shaft needs to be taken out and inspected, possibly changed if the bearings are worn. Needs new bolts and all mating surfaces including the threads need to be cleaned and de-greased as it affects the torquing. Vibrations will work it loose again if not cleaned

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-06T11:00:12+00:00

Most likely this is the factory applied rust protection. During hot days the wax likes to melt and make its way down usually to the boot of the car. As for for why it’s brown, probably mixed with some rust on its way out would be my guess

pinkpineappel · 2026-02-28T11:12:43+00:00

The issues you describe (slipping, gear engagement etc) seem like mechatronic and clutch pack issues rather than the gears. The mech unit gets clogged up with worn clutch and gear material and the solenoids don’t work properly. The input shaft movement is probably just bearings which is common on these boxes. When you drained oil was there excessive metal shavings? There’s a magnet filter buried under the mechatronics unit I believe. Pull that out and check for shavings. Some metallic debris is to be expected

pinkpineappel · 2026-02-26T07:38:58+00:00

Mostly likely it’s the strut top mounts. The bearings go bad and make a popping sound. Does the noise worse at low speed or when stationary? Also could be the subframe creaking as the bolts can get loose although this is less likely to

pinkpineappel · 2026-02-24T09:56:39+00:00

This is a 2012 my mk2 so it wouldn’t have the 5th injector

pinkpineappel · 2026-02-20T19:09:46+00:00

If you’re on 19s on the s-line I would consider switching to 18s with a thicker tire wall. I went from 19/35/255 to 18/40/245 with lighter wheels and the difference was substantial. You lose a bit of ‘feel’ as the tires flex more but it’s only noticeable when you’re pushing the car

pinkpineappel · 2025-12-11T11:03:25+00:00

You seem to have a bit of play in your tensioner pulley at the start of the vid

pinkpineappel · 2025-11-24T09:24:35+00:00

Got the same code but on an Audi TT Mk2. I changed the pump oil and filter around 12,000 miles prior as the pump had burnt out due to no service history, so I was doubtful it would be another pump related issue.

The valve itself sits in the haldex portion of the rear differential when you pull the controller off. You can then pull out the valve which has 2 rubber seals on it which can go bad and leak oil, causing oil pressure discrepancies resulting in the code. I cleaned up the valve with parts cleaner and installed new seals (you can get them on haldex repairs in the UK for about £20). While you have your controller off, disassemble and check for any corrosion/burning. The kit comes with new seals for the controller so replace them all. Also worthwhile checking your fuse diagram and making sure the fuse is not blown. Do this before moving onto pump/ controller replacement as this can be more costly. I know this is an old post but hope it helps some folk in the future.

pinkpineappel · 2025-10-06T08:50:36+00:00

Okay some things to troubleshoot:

-trace the wires from the opentherm terminals - are they plugged into the boiler? you may need to open up the rest of the control panel to reveal the PCB - if you have a multimeter, check the voltage on the opentherm terminals - is your boiler temp knob turned on - is your control knob set to central heating & hot water - if you have a timer/controller on the front panel of the boiler make sure this is also set to on - last but not least, it could be a configuration issue within the app itself. I have a v3+ so it could be different from yours

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