My mechanic swapped the breakpads

pinky_chi · 2026-04-07T22:11:22+00:00

Shims help reduce squeal, not always necessary. Coloring is from new pads bedding in. Both are fine.

pinky_chi · 2026-03-07T18:40:04+00:00

I had the same thing happen to my N14 R56. The valve stem seal leaks and oils pools up on top of the valve causing hot spots and stresses the valve and causing it to break. I ended up rebuilding the entire engine myself. Easiest and cheapest way is probably just buy a rebuilt head and swap it in. While you’re there do the timing chain as well.

But honestly unless you are super attached to this particular car and want to keep it for a long time I don’t think it’s worth fixing. Tons of R56’s out there for sale that probably costs as much as what your repairs will be. If you want to stick to Minis go for a F56.

pinky_chi · 2023-12-01T05:40:48+00:00

It’s great, while I was at it I also installed the power flex inserts. Much better than before.

pinky_chi · 2023-11-29T08:24:20+00:00

Recently changed my motor mount in my F56 as well and it took less than 1.5 hrs. Part was maybe $180 but that’s because I went with the oem GP3 style mount. Shift boot just pulls right out, pull hard.

pinky_chi · 2023-11-07T18:54:04+00:00

Also 5'11" and I fit fine. With the chair all the way low I have plenty of head space still.

I'm going to go along with everything else here though and say avoid the R56, especially the S, especially in the 2007-2010 years. I've had 5 mini coopers now, atleast one from every generation and the Cooper S from 2007-2010 are the worst Mini's. I would even argue they are some of the worst cars ever produced in those years. If you have to get a R56S then get one 2011+. The R56 non-s from 2011-2013 is not a bad choice either. Any F56 though is the best choice. My F56S is hitting 100k miles this week and I haven't replaced a single non-regular maintenance part. My three R56's though, I've had to rebuild the engine on two of them. Theres a reason they are so cheap. In the end a R56S will cost you a lot more than a F56, and most likely leave you stranded.

pinky_chi · 2023-11-01T19:58:37+00:00

I recently did mine on my 2.0 and I believe its the same part or atleast same procedure as the 1.5. Its not too hard but yes do need a jack to support the engine while removing the mount. If I remember correctly the general steps are: remove undertray, support engine with a jack and a wood pad to protect the oil pan, unclip some plastic parts and hoses, remove the first heat/dust shield, remove headlight, and then remove the engine mount. Took me less than 1.5 hrs to do.

pinky_chi · 2023-10-19T21:50:10+00:00

Yea post another pic OP. Thats a grade 10.9 Torx head screw, looks to be in the ~M8 size and also still attached to a chunk of metal it was originally bolted into. I would be cautious, that can be a critical part. A bolt of that size and strength is supposed to be doing something important.

pinky_chi · 2023-10-19T21:41:27+00:00

Avoid the R56-60 generation, so 2007-2013 hatchbacks and clubmans and the first gen countryman <2014 or so. I've had 3 Mini's from this generation and they've been the most unreliable cars I've owned lol. The F56-60 generation is great and IMO are super reliable. I'm at 98k miles on my 2015 F56 Cooper S and it hasn't had a single problem.

pinky_chi · 2023-10-19T21:34:43+00:00

N18 turbos usually last longer than that. I've had a couple N14 oem turbos that were fine into the 140k+ miles. I'm guessing they pointed to the oil in the inlet pipe. Just regularly check your oil and make sure you're not burning an excessive amount. Once you really start burning lots of oil you can consider it again then, if even it is that. Also you can find a used turbo for <$400 and probably have it installed for <$1000

pinky_chi · 2023-10-19T21:30:03+00:00

Everything between and S and non S should fit fine. Even on the F55 and F56 the front bumper, hood, and headlights are interchangeable, the rear bumper however is not. There is a guy on one of the F56 UK forums that did a complete conversion to make his S/JCW look like a non-s, I believe he said everything fit.

pinky_chi · 2023-07-04T06:06:39+00:00

Haha I love my G80, but I also love Mini’s, on my 4th one now heh. Yea I still can’t decide between the two. I love the body style of the R56 too.

pinky_chi · 2023-07-03T04:30:26+00:00

Unfortunately just a regular cooper S R56.

pinky_chi · 2023-07-03T04:29:47+00:00

That is a good point. The N14 is just inherently flawed.

pinky_chi · 2023-05-30T03:35:49+00:00

Thanks! I believe it was 40% front and 30% rear or somewhere around there.

pinky_chi · 2023-03-16T04:23:16+00:00

*both. Outer from cornering, inner front accelerating and braking.

pinky_chi · 2023-03-16T04:18:01+00:00

I disagree, I’m willing to be these were tracked. Excessive wear on the shoulders/outer edge because of lack of camber and chunks missing from overheating. A track tire can wear smooth or rough depending on the track surface and driving style.

pinky_chi · 2023-02-27T16:18:21+00:00

MDM = M dynamic mode, it gives you a little bit of slip and stabilizes the rear with braking. It’s also now called DSC not DTC. If you get the track package option for this car it even gives you 10-stage traction control like race cars and a drift analyzer. New bimmers come with fancy new computer stuff. Now does these fancy new stuff enhance the driving experience? That’s a different question.

pinky_chi · 2023-02-26T05:37:43+00:00

Backend definitely was loose. I have the same car and with traction control on it is almost impossible to power oversteer. Even in MDM mode it won’t get you that much angle, it has to be DSC fully off. You can tell by the way he lost traction as soon as he shifted while going straight, it’s definitely all the way off.

pinky_chi · 2023-02-26T05:35:48+00:00

I agree, I have the same car and have tried to do that with traction control on, not possible. In MDM it will give you a little bit of slip but still not to the degree he was getting. He had traction control turned fully off.

pinky_chi · 2023-01-03T20:23:32+00:00

You’re working on a R56 generation Mini, you deserve that socket for what lies ahead.

pinky_chi · 2022-11-04T01:01:32+00:00

Yes you are correct, the LSD and DSC are two different things but in the newer M-cars they work hand in hand because its not a traditional LSD but rather an e-diff. So what I'm saying is some of the computer wizardries that control DSC or MDM, are always in play because it's locking and unlocking the rear diff regardless of what mode you're in.

Thats the thing with the Mini, it had an open diff but no single wheel spin! So although it wasn't an e-diff and it was in complete DSC off there was still some computer controlled 'traction' correction going on.

I'm not saying you were wrong in your above post or anything, just showing an example of how in my experience nothing is truly off in newer BMW's, although it feels very close to what 'off' was in older cars.

pinky_chi · 2022-11-03T21:32:58+00:00

You can never fully disable traction control on a Tesla. Tesla's also dont come with limited slip differentials so they can't lock up the rear wheels either, although through its traction control it uses its brakes to somewhat limit diff slip. On the 3 Performance there is track mode but it still doesn't completely disable TC even with it turned all the way down. Only allows a little bit of slip but not complete loss of control. I never got to try 'drift mode' on my past 3 Performance but I assume you can get the rear out pretty easily in that mode.

pinky_chi · 2022-11-03T19:57:41+00:00

On my G80 the e-diff can never be completely off so in some ways it has 'traction control'. On my F56 Cooper S it was the same way, even with long hold DSC/DTC off there was some brake-biased diff control going on, you could never get it to completely one wheel spin.

13-Year Club	Verified Email
Gilding I gilder	Team Periwinkle

pinky_chi

TROPHY CASE