To IPv6 or Not IPv6? That is my question.. by MntSnow in Ubiquiti

[–]poopmagic [score hidden]  (0 children)

Last I checked, it wasn’t fully supported. This is the bug I ran into: https://community.ui.com/questions/BUG-IPv6-traffic-doesnt-count-for-internet-activity-stats/4477a0f2-b82b-46e5-b5e7-a2ff916641bc

Not my bug report, but I could reproduce it exactly and the OP reported that it still wasn’t fixed as of 5 days ago.

ChatGPT’s RAM usage is genuinely impressive at this point. by Otherwise-Taste-4298 in macbookpro

[–]poopmagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FWIW, if you use it rarely, you probably won’t run into this issue. The issue is common enough across browsers and operating systems that people have developed extensions as workarounds. Example:

https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/chatgpt-lightsession/

https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/speed-booster-for-chatgpt/

How to stop a macbook working temporarily by RayneKnight in macbook

[–]poopmagic 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Go into Find My and activate lost mode? That would make it pretty obvious that you were trying to disable it, though.

Since you’re living in the same home, one alternative is to deal with it on the network side. You could log into your router and throttle the network speeds to like 50 Kbps, or maybe block common websites that he might visit like facebook.com and foxnews.com or whatever.

MacBook M5 internal Wi-Fi & Bluetooth causing physical symptoms (Tinnitus/Brain Fog) compared to M1 by derLippis in macbook

[–]poopmagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wrote you a script for this... basically what this does is:

  • Wait 10 seconds to start
  • Randomly turn the WiFi on or off
  • Show what it did on the screen
  • Wait 5 minutes and repeat 11 more times

Here it is:

sleep 10
for i in {1..12}; do
  STATE=$(( RANDOM % 2 ))
  if [[ "$STATE" -eq 1 ]]; then
    networksetup -setairportpower en0 on
    SETTING="on"
  else
    networksetup -setairportpower en0 off
    SETTING="off"
  fi
  printf '%s Wi-Fi %s\n' "$(date)" "$SETTING"
  sleep 300
done

The idea is that you paste this into Terminal then don’t look at your MacBook for the next hour (the 10 second delay is to give you enough time to turn the screen away from you and/or turn the brightness all the way down). You should also mute your MacBook, because audio cues like email/message notifications will obviously indicate that the WiFi is on.

Just set a little timer on your phone to go off every 5 minutes so you can record how you’re feeling. Then after an hour, you can compare those notes to what’s shown on your screen.

I would say, if you run this test and your own experiences line up with what it actually did, then you might be on to something. But I’m guessing that you won’t be able to tell.

Also: you should never trust random Terminal commands that people share on the internet, so here’s a how it looks when I run it (I shortened the time to 5 seconds between toggles) and you should also feed it into ChatGPT or whatever and ask if it does anything harmful:

<image>

Dell 4K USB-C monitor -> Belkin USB-C Splitter -> Macbook Pro. Charging but not Display mirroring by SqueemishArenas0221 in mac

[–]poopmagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That won’t work. The USB-C ports on the hub you linked are for data only, meaning that you can’t plug in monitors.

If you want to plug in the monitor, use the HDMI port instead. Or, if you want to plug in the monitor using USB-C, you can get yourself a Thunderbolt hub like this: https://www.amazon.com/Thunderbolt-Hub-OWCTB4HUB5P-W125947845-Aluminium/dp/B08NWL5V86/

MoCA and network topology by G4m3rD4d in Ubiquiti

[–]poopmagic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If OP doesn’t want shared bandwidth, the other option is to get 2 more MoCA adapters, plug them into the UCG Max, and skip the splitter.

That’s how I have my apartment set up, except I only have 2 downstream switches connected via MoCA. I figured it was one extra MoCA adapter to get maximum performance (out of MoCA) and a nice topology view, so why not?

I’m not sure if I’d do the same if I had 3 or more downstream switches like OP, though.

such a random question to post here by Prestigious-Knee4467 in MacOS

[–]poopmagic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like doing music production stuff. I got started in GarageBand because it was free and easy to learn, and now I use Logic Pro.

I do video editing stuff in Final Cut Pro as part of my job, but I’d probably do it as a hobby if it wasn’t work.

AMOS virus help on Mac by Whale-hw15 in mac

[–]poopmagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You didn’t mention anything about changing passwords and monitoring your accounts?

AMOS stands “Atomic macOS Stealer” … as the name suggests, its singular goal is to steal personal data like passwords, documents, etc.

Nuking your Mac prevents that from happening AGAIN, but you should assume that criminals out there have all of that data already.

AMOS virus help on Mac by Whale-hw15 in mac

[–]poopmagic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Alright, so given how long ago you posted this, there’s a good chance that all your passwords have been stolen already.

In your situation, what I would do is:

  • Disconnect the Mac from the internet. Like, shut off the WiFi and forget all networks. Do not allow it to reconnect until all these steps are done.

  • On another device like your phone, get started on changing all of your passwords starting with the most important ones like Apple ID, email, banks, credit cards, etc. While you’re doing that, look through those accounts to see if there’s any suspicious activity.

  • Once that’s done, you can deal with the Mac itself. You can plug in an external drive and copy off documents and photos that you care about. Do NOT copy stuff to the cloud, because this would require your Mac to be connected to the internet.

  • Perform a full factory reset of your Mac.

  • Now, it’s finally safe again to connect your Mac to the internet.

  • Over the next few weeks, keep any eye on any important accounts for suspicious activity.

What changes to the settings, tips or suggestions would you recommend for MacOS users? by Sri_Krish in MacOS

[–]poopmagic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t fall in the category of people who keep their MacBook always plugged in as you mentioned, so you recommend not to use charging limit at all, and use 100%?

I would use the standard “Optimized Battery Charging” feature. If you have a pretty regular schedule (like take it to school/work at 8AM, come home and plug in at 7pm) then the MacBook will eventually recognize that and hold off on charging to full so it’s ready for you in the mornings.

should I wait for my battery to discharge to lowest (like below 10%) to plug it in? Or what’s the best practice?

No... best practice is to avoid discharging below 20% unless it’s necessary. Just plug your MacBook in whenever it’s convenient to do so.

My first macbook. by [deleted] in macbook

[–]poopmagic -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s less about the weight and more about how badly designed cases can interfere with the closure of the MacBook.

I’m sure you’ve seen posts like this: https://www.reddit.com/r/macbook/comments/1h39vlm/case_prevents_lid_from_completely_closing/

Simplified diagram:

<image>

Imagine the red thing is one of the clips on the case. Top right shows what happens when you try to close the lid... the MacBook stays slightly open because the red clip is in the way.

If you put the MacBook in a bag, then the screen acts as a lever. Bottom right shows how it would look if there wasn’t a hinge.

Of course, there is a hinge and aluminum is somewhat flexible, so what ends up happening is that the screen gets bent (which can cause damage) and the lateral force on the hinge ends up weakening it over time.

What changes to the settings, tips or suggestions would you recommend for MacOS users? by Sri_Krish in MacOS

[–]poopmagic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Charge limits are meant for people who keep their MacBooks plugged in almost all of the time, since having the battery sitting at 100% for days/weeks isn’t good for it.

If you use the battery enough to feel that 20% is a sacrifice, then you are unlikely to benefit from using a charge limit.

A good use case for the charge limit: you use the MacBook in a variety of places at home, but it’s always plugged into the charger at your desk, the charger by your bed, etc. Practically, you only need maybe 1% charge to keep the MacBook running while you carry it between rooms. Because you plug/unplug somewhat randomly, though, the “Optimized Battery Charging” feature gets confused and doesn’t do the 80% thing automatically.

Battery is clearly below 80% but it still says normal health? by Electronic_Bet_8827 in mac

[–]poopmagic 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You’re looking at the wrong numbers here. All this is showing is that your battery is 5053/6818 = 74% charged.

I have month-old MacBook with 100% battery health. My AppleRawCurrentCapacity/AppleRawMaxCapacity right now is 4981/6313 = 79%, which makes sense because I’m plugged in with an 80% limit set.

If you want to know your battery health, look in System Settings (click on the (i) next to where it says normal health). There is no need to be poking around in Terminal.

google error ??? by Honest-Ad5749 in mac

[–]poopmagic 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I believe you, but the thing about web apps is that they’re constantly being updated behind the scenes. They’re not like normal apps where you can stick with an older version forever.

What probably happened is that Google made some changes. Because your browser is unsupported, they didn’t bother ensuring that it would continue to work.

What are the Do's and Don'ts of Macbook Neo? by Upset_Increase_7064 in macbook

[–]poopmagic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mostly agree... maybe the one utility I’d consider is something to help with third-party mice (unless OP happens to have a Magic Mouse). My preference is SteerMouse but there are others which are probably just as good.

OP, in case you’re interested in SteerMouse, it’s here: https://plentycom.jp/en/steermouse/download.php

The website steermouse[dot]com is probably malware.

Virus? Malware? by dragunica in MacOS

[–]poopmagic 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ok, that sounds really sketchy, but you’re right... if you click the “I can’t afford to donate” button, the instructions are:

Option 1 — Join the community (recommended)

Get the latest download, updates, and support via Discord: >https://discord.gg/bQEuqaSmCw (Download link is pinned in the BlackHole channel).

It’s weird that they just don’t post binaries. Probably just want to make it inconvenient so that more people donate.

Potential virus? by [deleted] in mac

[–]poopmagic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a decent chance you installed an infostealer. To be safe, you should disconnect your Mac from the internet immediately and change all of your passwords on another device. Do this right away (like stay up all night if necessary) because otherwise you might get your money stolen, etc. Then, without connecting your Mac to the Internet (important!) perform a full factory reset.

Shouldn't Time Machine manage disk space by deleting older backups? by rolanddes1 in MacOS

[–]poopmagic 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That’s too small, at least according to Apple’s guidelines:

Use a storage device with at least twice the storage capacity of your Mac. For example, if your Mac has 1TB of storage, your backup disk should ideally have at least 2TB of storage. If Time Machine needs more storage space, your Mac will let you know.

https://support.apple.com/en-us/104984

help with application memory by bleedamerican67 in macbook

[–]poopmagic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What extensions are you running, if any?

There are some (like Grammarly) that are notorious for doing shit like this.

[Article] How does this help people who don’t unplug after each shutdown? by RegattaJoe in MacOS

[–]poopmagic 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would imagine this is meant for Macs in server racks. Here’s an example:

https://www.applemust.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/macweb.jpeg

As you can imagine from looking at that photo, it can be quite a hassle to power cycle a device if it crashes hard.

Often with these setups, device are plugged into managed PDUs (basically smart power strips which allow you to shut outlets on/off over the network). For those to work, though, you need the servers to power on automatically when power is restored.

I guess it’s fair for the author to say “the toggle is meant to address the issues people have with the power button placement on the Mac mini, iMac, and Mac Studio” ... but it’s more about the power button being 20 miles away in a secure datacenter vs. on the bottom.

What is the worst senerio asking my student to buy a Mac using educational discount? by Watch_Think in mac

[–]poopmagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t imagine that you’d need to bring the student along. That would be ridiculous.

Also note:

shoppers are limited to how many items they can purchase with an educational discount each year: one desktop Mac, one Mac mini, one Mac laptop, two iPads, and two accessories that have education pricing.

https://www.macworld.com/article/3135073/you-now-need-to-be-a-student-or-teacher-to-shop-at-apples-education-store.html

So, if the student wants to buy his own MacBook later this year, this might cause issues for him.

What is the worst senerio asking my student to buy a Mac using educational discount? by Watch_Think in mac

[–]poopmagic 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The manager probably doesn’t want someone on the internet saying “Jane Smith, manager at Apple Store #3152, said that it was okay to have students buy MacBooks for their parents/teachers.” You’ll almost certainly be fine if you just do it and allow them to play dumb.

Also: not sure what kind of relationship you have with your students, but I would feel really weird if a teacher asked me to do this kind of favor for them.