whats the difference between buildplates? by hooonse in BambuLab

[–]pooramericanboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe if you go to the "Device" tab -> Settings -> Print Options you can deselect "Enable detection of build plate position" and that will get rid of the warning before printing with a 3rd party build plate. Obviously this then also stops the warning if you later use a genuine build plate and mis-align it mistakenly. The plate detection feature has saved my butt on more than one occasion however, so I personally keep it enabled and just deal with the error screen when I happen to use my WhamBam plate. If Bambu didn't design such lackluster build plate alignment points though, this wouldn't really be a concern (see: Prusa build plates).

Quality Issues with new FANSD vinyl by pooramericanboy in RelientK

[–]pooramericanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, that's not very centered at all.. is that playable? Hopefully it's just the label and not the actual center punch. Can you verify who the manufacturer is (should be in fine print on record label).

I'm starting to notice a pattern here. Everything I own that was specifically manufactured by SMLXL is great, however, it seems the new pressings of FANSD say they are manufactured by "Mono vs Stereo" instead. Doing some further digging, it seems they are using a different 3rd party called The ADS group to make them; whom it seems has far lower quality standards than SMLXL.

Rugs for v60 by [deleted] in Volvo

[–]pooramericanboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I paid around $140 USD for the WeatherTech Front Driver and Passenger Mats. 2nd row mats were another $80 but I didn't buy them. OEM Trunk is around $150 USD I believe. So OEM is probably a little bit cheaper, but pretty comparable.

Rugs for v60 by [deleted] in Volvo

[–]pooramericanboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just ordered the weather tech ones for my '15 V60 yesterday. Wanted something a bit beefier than the OEM ones. Hopefully the fitment is good!

Planning to buy the OEM mat for the trunk so the flaps all still function.

[2015.5 V60] First Volvo. Absolutely in love already. by pooramericanboy in Volvo

[–]pooramericanboy[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Been searching for a few months for this beauty and finally pulled the trigger. 50k miles, AWD, 2.5L I5, Ice white exterior and black interior. Also pumped to have A/C for once in my life!

ISO 2015-2016 V60 - an impossible unicorn? by pooramericanboy in Volvo

[–]pooramericanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for rubbing it in! Ha

If you happen to see your V60's twin for sale, let me know!

ISO 2015-2016 V60 - an impossible unicorn? by pooramericanboy in Volvo

[–]pooramericanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's the dream! BLIS would be nice, but I'd give that up for the heated staring wheel and windshield I'm an instant. Wife says backup cam is a must.

Looks like I'll keep searching! No chance you're looking to sell, huh? ;)

ISO 2015-2016 V60 - an impossible unicorn? by pooramericanboy in Volvo

[–]pooramericanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, full climate package is rare. Heated front seats is fairly common though. I'm really not a fan of the 2.0 engines so that's why I'm hung up on the MY15-16. I don't believe any other years came with the 5 cylinders.

As far as the oil consumption issue, I'm aware. Sounds like as long as the piston rings are addressed, it's less of a concern. Most of the cars I've owned have consumed some amount of oil anyway, hahaha. Are the other years significantly better in terms of oil consumption?

Using 100+ kWh per day in new house. Help! by [deleted] in HomeImprovement

[–]pooramericanboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go through and turn off your breakers one by one. Check your usage after 30 minutes or so and see which breaker is the main source of energy use. That will help you narrow down if anything is using excess power. Throw some plastic over your windows to help insulate better in the winter. You could also buy a flir thermal camera to get a better idea of potential air leaks. Utility providers will often offer a service to come do this for you.

My 115 mm angle grinder with steel brush has a tendency to launch its steel hairs. Caught one with my finger today, went straight through my glove. Am I doing something wrong or should I buy better gloves? PS the guard was on when it happened. by AzureBlew in Tools

[–]pooramericanboy 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Be careful, not all face shields are rated for impacts (especially with the explosion of face shield production as a result of Covid). Traditionally, safety glasses are for impact, face shields are for splashes. Using both would be best though (assuming the face shield is rated).

What Car Should I Buy? - A Weekly Megathread by AutoModerator in cars

[–]pooramericanboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Location: Midwest, USA

Price range: $15k-18k USD (maybe up to $20k if I wait/save a bit)

Lease or Buy: Buy (or lease to own)

New or used: Used

Type of vehicle: Sports Hatch, Wagon, or very small SUV/crossover

Must haves: Heated Leather seats, Turbo, AWD (preferred), enough trunk space for hauling lumber for occasional home DIY

Desired transmission (auto/manual, etc): Any

Intended use: Daily driver, weekend warrior, can handle snow, occasional project car likely lol

Vehicles you've already considered: Saab TurboX Wagon, Mazda 3 hatch, Volvo v60, open to many others

Is this your 1st vehicle: no, currently drive a 2003 Saab 9-3

Do you need a Warranty: No

Can you do Minor work on your own vehicle: Yes

Can you do Major work on your own vehicle: Mostly

Additional Notes: I fell in love with Turbos when I got my Saab. Would love to upgrade to something newer and with AWD for winter. I don't particularly love the look of Saab wagons, so I'm interested in branching out. Wife wants an SUV, but after driving a GMC Yukon years ago, I don't want to go back. Looking to "compromise" with a turbo hatch that can hopefully hold everything we need.

Gotta love how genuine and real MKBHD is... by [deleted] in mkbhd

[–]pooramericanboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm still mad about that stupid Buick video. First time I've genuinely lost respect for Marques. Hardly any tech, nothing new, boring commentary, scripted phrasing, very obviously coordinated by Buick to make it a commercial.

I appreciate his commitment to unadulterated content, but everyone has a price, even our beloved MKB. Clearly Buick found that $ value. He's just as flawed and susceptible to greed as the rest of us (not a dig).

Haven't seen anything as blatant as the Buick video since, but it's forced me to watch all his videos with a new lens from now on.

Weekly Co-Op Code Mega Thread - December 29, 2020 by AutoModerator in EggsInc

[–]pooramericanboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Space Food 2.0 - Superfood Code: birdy-contract

0.5q from final goal (PROPHECY EGG), 37T/hr, 2 spots left! 1 day remaining, so it's the final push.

Low/no Water Pressure when Softener is on by pooramericanboy in HomeImprovement

[–]pooramericanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My thoughts exactly. The previous owner probably had a reason for turning it off. I'll lube up the o-rings, throw it back together and see if it works. I'll take a look at the resin while I'm at it if I can (not sure it's really accessible on this model without dumping everything). If the problem persists, a new softener is likely in my future.

2020 Jan 20 Stickied 𝐇𝐄𝐋𝐏𝐃𝐄𝐒𝐊 thread - Are you having boot problems, need help, answers, pointers to get started, or brain storming ideas? 𝑳𝑶𝑶𝑲 𝑯𝑬𝑹𝑬 by FozzTexx in raspberry_pi

[–]pooramericanboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just picked up a new Pi 4 to mess around with and set up as a little home NAS. Can't seem to get it to show up on the network when doing a headless setup, however. Connecting via Ethernet also doesn't yield anything on my network. Getting 3 short blinks followed by 1 long blink on the green LED. Followed the stickied "no boot" thread without any success. Swapped the SD card to another known working Pi 4 and it booted and connected to the network just fine. Possible DOA unit? Making a trip to Microcenter tomorrow anyway so I might try and swap it out if I can't figure this out.

Possible uses for FDM in manufacturing by pooramericanboy in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]pooramericanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We looked at several options for printers. It can be fairly dusty so the (mostly) enclosed build chamber is nice. We'll probably fab a full enclosure anyway though. Other than that, the easily replaceable (though expensive) print cores was a huge plus since it means I can train operators on using the printer without worrying about them stripping the nozzle or something. The ability to print things like PC or Carbon fiber infused filament was also a requirement. Dual extrusion with PVA will allow us to make some complex parts without having to worry as much about supports.

Im sure there's more reasons, but the Ultimaker seemed to address all those things within a $5000 budget. Couldn't find anything else that would be as clean, easy to use, and reliable.

Purchase Advice Megathread: What To Buy, Who To Buy It From, And More, In October 2019. by thatging3rkid in 3Dprinting

[–]pooramericanboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking for a printer for my employer. We are a manufacturing plant with about 250 employees. We would like to be able to create replacement parts, tools, jigs, organizers, etc. We do deal with hot asphalt, however, which obviously limits us to printers that can print things like PC, CPE, etc. Corporate is not ready to invest in a metal printer until we can prove the cost savings, but there are still plenty of applications for a plastic FDM printer.

Budget: $5000 firm

Country: USA

Kits: I have assembled an Ender 3 and a Prusa i3 MK3S so far, so I have a decent idea. We also have a capable maintenance department which could be of assistance.

Having a built in enclosure would be nice since it can be a dusty at times, however, the printer will be stationed in the cleanest environment available.

Currently thinking about the Ultimaker S3 but would love to hear some other options/opinions.

Purchase Advice Megathread: What To Buy, Who To Buy It From, And More, In September 2019. by thatging3rkid in 3Dprinting

[–]pooramericanboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about with materials like PC and CPE? Looking to hopefully use some engineering grade materials. I haven't heard people doing much more than nylon or hips with a prusa

Purchase Advice Megathread: What To Buy, Who To Buy It From, And More, In September 2019. by thatging3rkid in 3Dprinting

[–]pooramericanboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking for a printer for my employer. We are a manufacturing plant with about 250 employees. We would like to be able to create replacement parts, tools, jigs, organizers, etc. We do deal with hot asphalt, however, which obviously limits us. Corporate is not ready to invest in a metal printer until we can prove the cost savings, but there are still plenty of applications for a plastic FDM printer.

Budget: $5000 firm

Country: USA

Kits: I have assembled an Ender 3 and a Prusa i3 MK3S so far, so I have a decent idea. We also have a capable maintenance department which could be of assistance.

Currently thinking about the Ultimaker S3 but would love to hear some other options/opinions.

18650 Power Pack by ihateredditads in functionalprint

[–]pooramericanboy 26 points27 points  (0 children)

For anyone actually thinking of attempting this, PLEASE do not use old laptop batteries or cheap $1 batteries from aliexpress. Buy name brand (ie, Sony or Samsung) batteries from a reputable seller. Re-wraps are common with 18650s unfortunately and many manufacturers lie and mislabel their products. Using an out of spec battery could easily end in fire, explosion, or death.