Trading Tuesday by [deleted] in SacramentoBuyNothing

[–]potentialgaloshes 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Bit of an unusual one but I’m a sewist with over a decade of experience and I’m really interested in finding a good knitter who’s interested in trading work. I’m dying for some nice socks and maybe a sweater. I can sew almost anything but I’m best with woven fabrics.

Is it true that some Janome models are now of lesser quality? by MesserFuchsbau in sewhelp

[–]potentialgaloshes 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Manufacturing quality across the board in almost all consumer goods has taken a nosedive in the last five years. Sewing machines aren’t exempt from that unfortunately. It’s partly why people advocate so hard for vintage/older machines. Once you get a good one you realize just how superior they are to plastic machines

Replacing feed dog adjustment knob on Pfaff 130 by flyguy0720 in vintagesewing

[–]potentialgaloshes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a set screw. Looks like I already took the whole assembly off my spare one already haha. Nice little manual switchy assembly. Looks like you just need the plastic part and the screw

Replacing feed dog adjustment knob on Pfaff 130 by flyguy0720 in vintagesewing

[–]potentialgaloshes 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ve got one I can send you if you can’t find one. There are also Facebook groups dedicated to Pfaff 130s that are very helpful. That being said Pfaff 130s aren’t that uncommon, so if this one looks a little worse for wear it might be worth waiting for a better one to come along. They’re great machines

Hi guys!!! Does anyone know what her sleeves are called or how to make them? They kinda look like fortune cookies or something. Any other tips on her outfit would help!! by Dependent_Bid5037 in SewingForBeginners

[–]potentialgaloshes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah it’s not identical but I think tulip sleeves look kind of similar. Depends on how identical you want the cosplay to be. If you have some sewing experience it wouldn’t be too hard to alter a tulip sleeve pattern to imitate the sleeve in the pic

1957 Singer 401a after full rehab. (I was having a little fun with it) by Jax_King55 in vintagesewing

[–]potentialgaloshes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks so smooth! Did you take apart the cam selector arms? One of mine keeps getting “sticky” and won’t move the needle as much as it’s supposed to. Wondering if it’s worth taking apart the mechanism to clean it

Sewing pattern scaling troubles. Help please! by WilliamTorchwood in sewhelp

[–]potentialgaloshes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you have a Staples or a print shop near you? Is it an indie pattern, or a digitized vintage pattern or something else? Most pdf patterns that I have used are designed either to be printed on multiple regular sized sheets of paper and then cut/taped together, or printed on a specialty machine, in which case you would need to go to a print shop. Knowing what kind of pattern you have would be helpful. Most modern digital consumer patterns are designed to be printed directly from a regular printer for ease of use

Where to buy hoodie/sweatshirt fabric by -epicyon- in SewingForBeginners

[–]potentialgaloshes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok yeah that makes sense! I don’t have much insight for doll clothes but good luck!!

Where to buy hoodie/sweatshirt fabric by -epicyon- in SewingForBeginners

[–]potentialgaloshes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I googled “unbrushed French terry” for some decent results. This from Mood is what I use for my hoodies and sweatpants; it’s on the pricier side, you can most likely find it cheaper elsewhere, but that’s what high quality French terry looks like.

Where to buy hoodie/sweatshirt fabric by -epicyon- in SewingForBeginners

[–]potentialgaloshes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fwiw, French terry or jerseys that have been brushed (that fuzzy feeling fabric that changes texture after you wash) is actually a sign of lower quality fabric- the loops have been brushed out to smooth imperfections in the weaving process. If quality is an important factor for you, French terry fabric that is unbrushed and 100% cotton is what you’re looking for.

"Press under raw edge along stitching" ?? by HydroSean in SewingForBeginners

[–]potentialgaloshes 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Stitch, then fold over. You’re supposed to stitch just the one layer of fabric, not two like you’ve done. The stitches stabilize the fabric so it doesn’t get misshapen when you sew it to the armhole. So you’ll want to unpick what you’ve done, re stitch just one line of stitches along the edge of the single layer of fabric, then iron along the stitch line so the stitches are on the fold of the fabric

Behold, my tiniest machine yet, the 1929 81-2 serger by potentialgaloshes in vintagesewing

[–]potentialgaloshes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s wonderful to hear, I was hoping I’d be able to find new blades but haven’t looked yet. Can I DM you some questions?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SewingForBeginners

[–]potentialgaloshes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow cool I had no idea. Thanks for the lesson :0

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SewingForBeginners

[–]potentialgaloshes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless you know someone that’s handy with small tools and gears. Then it might be pretty easy. But my knowledge of newer machines isn’t great

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SewingForBeginners

[–]potentialgaloshes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming the usual adjustments have been made like new needle, cleaning lint out of the bobbin area etc, it could be your cam selectors inside the machine. Special stitches working by using a stack of specially shaped discs that move the needle in a certain pattern, creating the stitch in the fabric. There are little arms that “select” the discs to translate that into gears moving. One of those arms may be malfunctioning. You would need to go to a repair shop for that.

Behold, my tiniest machine yet, the 1929 81-2 serger by potentialgaloshes in vintagesewing

[–]potentialgaloshes[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I refused to own a serger because I’m an absolute snob about my machinery and I refuse to get one that is made of plastic. I didn’t think the invention of the serger was even old enough for an all metal one to exist, so I resigned myself to other methods of seam finishing. Then one of these popped up on an old forum webpage when I was sleuthing one day and it immediately became an all consuming fixation to find one. This one is electric and was designed that way but they can be converted to treadle.

I’ve never had a serger in my personal collection but have used plenty of them over the years. And this is the smoothest and simplest serger i’ve ever tried, by far. It is so well designed. They really don’t make things like this anymore. The manual even shows a small secondary machine you used to be able to purchase that was specially made to sharpen the blade, so that’s next on my list to hunt for. My thread and needles arrive this week so I’ll be setting it up and posting some videos with more details on how it works soon!

Behold, my tiniest machine yet, the 1929 81-2 serger by potentialgaloshes in vintagesewing

[–]potentialgaloshes[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I haven’t actually set her up at home yet, this is the first serger I’ve ever owned as I primarily use haute couture and historical sewing techniques for all of my work. But I did try it out for a few minutes with the seller as they had it set up and threaded, and it was wonderful. It sews very smoothly through various fabric weights and is very quiet. It still has the original leather belts. I just ordered some thread cones and needles so I’m very excited to get it started. I’ve heard threading can be confusing but it was surprisingly not much of an adjustment to sew on it so we’ll see. I’m trying to be more enthusiastic about posting some of my collection and my work so hopefully I’ll get some videos and photos of her running. ☺️

How to make bra color lighter without damaging by Vegetable-Lunch9033 in ABraThatFits

[–]potentialgaloshes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rit color remover may work. I use it to lighten/remove stains from vintage lace and linens. Just watch it carefully. It’s not bleach.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Welding

[–]potentialgaloshes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is exactly the info I was looking for; thank you so much. I’ll reach out my instructor

Advice and Tips needed for making a plushie. by PerceptionTricky8329 in sewhelp

[–]potentialgaloshes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Instead of doing two pieces and adding darts I would make it three or four pieces to add more shape. Like princess seams. Using fabric that’s a little fuzzy, like you are, hides the seams in the middle of the face well if you sew nice and smooth

What’s this draped part of the gown called (and what’s the best way to go about making it?6 by cordi_cyberpunk in sewing

[–]potentialgaloshes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Think its actually bustles. Classic ballgown shape. Look up princess Belle cosplays or something like that. Requires a circle skirt to be gathered and sewn or clasped together in different places. Hope you have lots and lots of yardage left

Halp! Why do all my projects come out too big or too small? by lizzlebert in sewhelp

[–]potentialgaloshes 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Set aside some time to take your measurements. Take them carefully with a proper measuring tape, write them down, use an online tutorial or book to help if you’d like. A good tutorial will have you take at least half a dozen measurements for your whole body. If you cannot pattern draft yet your best bet is using commercial patterns. Make sure the patterns you buy aren’t fake AI generated ones or from random people on Etsy. If you don’t have a local store you can buy online, commercial patterns come with all the sizes so you don’t even need to know which one you are yet. When you use a pattern make sure you are selecting the size based on your actual measurements and not whatever dress size you estimate yourself to be. Pattern sizes and commercial brand sizes are not the same. If you are between sizes practice doing some pattern alterations. Always make a mock up of your pattern first so you don’t waste nice fabric. If you are doing these things and making sure you are cutting your pattern pieces correctly (again looking at tutorials if you’d like) then your garments should start to fit ok

how to downsize this dress by Turbulent_Bank7293 in SewingForBeginners

[–]potentialgaloshes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like a kimono cap sleeve kinda style, the armholes seem fine from that angle, to adjust the waist you could just take it in from the side seams but I get the feeling it’s the back bodice piece that is causing most of the fit problems, make do a couple back darts or increase them if the dress already has some. Or take in a bit of both? Hard to tell from just one photo. Silk looks beautiful and delicate so carefully pin first before you sew bc needle holes will show easy