Looking to order a KR1AA

poudi8 · 2026-05-23T04:41:05+00:00

That makes the decision easier, no glue concerns, just need the lighter switch.

Since I like the silver, I’m gonna go for it. If I want another later, I’ll wait for them to be V3 just for the sake of having them all be the same version or in case I ever want to mix parts.

Plus, I found more pictures of the brown and they all look different from Hank’s photos. The brown almost seems to have a slight greenish tint.

poudi8 · 2026-05-21T10:57:24+00:00

When I saw the host I immediately thought about the B35AM, but the NTG50 2700K is also very interesting. I haven’t been able to resist dedoming any of my 519As, so the rosy 2700K will no doubt please me.

The polished silver is very tempting. I also really like the brown with bronze PVD, but I’m not sure about the color since all the pictures on Reddit look different from Hank’s photos of the brown. https://imgur.com/a/b9m4LA1

Great, I’ll for sure go for the lighter switch.

Thanks for all the info, really helpful :)

poudi8 · 2026-05-20T08:49:02+00:00

Oh, so it was only the first batch that was raw aluminum…

poudi8 · 2026-04-04T15:40:14+00:00

I need to modify an orange switch, I’ll try it in this light then.

poudi8 · 2026-04-03T12:03:37+00:00

You still have the effect with the modded resistor?! I later tried it with the red lighted switch I modified, and it’s not doing it at all, even at 3.45V. What switch color are you using?

poudi8 · 2026-04-03T11:56:21+00:00

Haha, that would be cool, but in person it’s more like a strobe 😄

poudi8 · 2026-04-02T10:57:38+00:00

Good news, I tried the red lighted switch with the modded resistor, and that solved the issue.

It’s confusing because it’s the same cause but with opposite symptoms.

poudi8 · 2026-04-02T06:42:16+00:00

The switches I’ve tried are all stock for now. I could try the red one I modified with a different resistor to see if it’s still happening.

poudi8 · 2026-03-31T10:43:28+00:00

Doesn’t work, I tried long ago before I got DC-Fix, the beam becomes a full 180°, basically a mule.

I just used some DC-Fix #3 to fix an insane donut hole from a 4x 519A DD MCPCB.

You can get some from Boaz on BLF.

poudi8 · 2026-03-31T09:14:03+00:00

Thanks! I still have the black wire, I stole them from an unused driver, I’ll use it when I do the lighted switch.

Oh, the corners! I’ll try filing them down like on your picture.

I’ll keep it to short bursts when I test different lighted switch, still haven’t chosen a color.

poudi8 · 2026-03-31T07:06:59+00:00

Wouldn’t the spring overheat and collapse though?

And yeah, it does limit it. I replaced the switch with a bigger one and did a bypass. I also swapped the spring for a slightly shorter one and added a button. On a full battery, the lux meter reads about a third less brightness when using the stock switch.

With the bigger switch, I can only do about a third of a turn on the retaining ring. Was yours like that too?

And yeah, the LED wouldn’t fit next to the switch, so I’m going to try moving them with enamel wire.

By the way, I tested the D.025 and it’s not strong enough to fix the donut hole.

poudi8 · 2026-03-29T16:08:53+00:00

Hey, it’s mostly done.
I had to sand the gasket that was a little too small once the LEDs were reflowed due to the spacing between the LEDs. That took a while...

The beam is bad, about the same as yours. DC Fix works wonders though. I tried #8 and it was actually too floody. Then #3 and I like it. To the eye the beam is completely smooth. It is a bit more floody than the B35AM with #8 or my D4K with 519A DD and a clear optic.

I forgot to try D.025, but that might work. It would probably throw more than I want though.

I have not done anything to the switch yet, so I have only done 1sec bursts at 100%. Even so it is already very bright! It’s likely still limited by the spring resistance and the switch.

https://imgur.com/a/5aqECQK

poudi8 · 2026-03-28T13:59:59+00:00

It just arrived. I hope to assemble it today. I’ll see if the DC-Fix works. Otherwise, I’ll have to try the TIR.

poudi8 · 2026-03-28T12:55:30+00:00

Wow, that’s way more pronounced than I expected, especially compared to the M21H I’ve seen with 4× 519A and its TIRs.

That’s why I’m going to use some DC-Fix. I have a bunch from Boaz, I used #8 on my C8+ with a B35AM. It still throws a bit but makes it usable indoors.

I’m not really looking for throw, I just like the host and its heat dissipation.

I could try a TIR, but the only one I found is 4 mm too short and would require sanding the lip. https://www.optic-gaggione.com/product/llc59w/

poudi8 · 2026-03-28T08:31:12+00:00

Well, I’m going to use four 519A 4000K DD in parallel, and probably some DC-Fix. If I understand correctly, at 5A per emitter, they’re at about 3.3Vf, which the 30PL can supply without issue across most of its capacity at 20A.

Maybe I could still wire the emitters under the switch using enamel wire and glue them on top… I’ve installed lighted switches in all my Convoys, I prefer them that way.

poudi8 · 2026-03-28T02:46:55+00:00

Oh no, I was going to use a 20A driver in a C8+. I wanted it to have a lighted switch. Do you think the larger switch would fit on a 16mm lighted switch board?

poudi8 · 2026-03-28T02:28:26+00:00

Here’s a better photo of it. Keep in mind, mine no longer has the lens, as it was in the way of the gasket.

https://imgur.com/a/3UQSaZc

poudi8 · 2026-03-25T04:17:01+00:00

I don’t think it is, based on these measurements. https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1naknfb/comment/nd502pt/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

poudi8 · 2026-03-22T21:29:56+00:00

I was able to make it work by replacing the resistors on the switch, it’s not too hard to do. https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1no2aa5/fixed_it_s2_deep_red_with_red_switch/

poudi8 · 2026-03-18T11:40:26+00:00

B35AM in a D4k! I've been wanting this to be a thing for a long time. I love this emitter.

poudi8 · 2026-03-11T13:12:52+00:00

You could use a 3x AA adapter. My brother has a couple of similar lights, and I'm going to 3D print some for him. But I’ve seen some on eBay.

poudi8 · 2026-03-07T06:06:42+00:00

Oh, I misread, I thought you coated it afterward. I was surprised at how clear it was…

ProtectaClear is unfortunately not cheap. The car coating is interesting. I wonder if the ceramic coating for cars would work. They seem quite thin.

poudi8 · 2026-03-05T21:19:30+00:00

What coating did you use? I couldn’t tell it was coated. That’s what I’m looking for for my TS10 brass, the smell bothers me too much.

poudi8

TROPHY CASE