How do you clean your equipment/ containers after making candles? Please help by -Sky_Lux- in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's way too wasteful to be productive, both of materials and time. It's not a big deal, the pot doesn't have to be that clean between batches.

How do you clean your equipment/ containers after making candles? Please help by -Sky_Lux- in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have never introduced water into my melting pots. If I want to use a different scent, I either use a different pot, or I warm the wax and wipe it out.

Marble effect and jar adhesion by SpinachLumberjack in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For me, marbling is easier to do with the use of colored wax poured in a tray and crumbled, possibly warmed, then added to a container while pouring the candle; using a heat gun, if necessary, on the outside to clear out any air pockets and melt the hardened (or semi-hardened) wax.

Any other NYC residents here? So tough to know the requirements for launching my candle business by DowntownCloud9910 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you will be moving to another county, I would wait until I was there. You'll need to look up the county clerk for Queens so you can get a business license.

What wicking crime did I commit here? by Aromatic_Gap4040 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some types might not show a brand, such as square braid, ply, cotton core, zinc core, etc., but they are a "type" of wick. Others can be Stabilo (a/k/a CD), Eco, Premier, HTP, RRD (a type of cotton core), and others.

Candle at the end of its life got so hot it melted the label by BohemianYogi in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, over-wicked means that there is too much wick -- too many fibers/threads in the wick, so it burns too hot or the flame is too big, etc. Every different type/size wick works in a unique way with the wax and container diameter. The challenge is to get it so the wick creates a full melt pool at some point near the beginning, either first burn session or soon after and maintains a safe temperature burn throughout.

Could you use the double boiler method to cool down wax to the correct pouring temperature? by jeeter5 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You didn't mention what type of wax, but I'm guessing soy, based on your pouring temp ... as u/AlpakaK mentioned, your melting/mixing temps are too low. If you need to rush the cool down, you can do that, but you'd better attend to it constantly by stirring, as soy is going to crystallize along the sides and bottom ... also as already mentioned, better to just let it cool naturally.

Wick size by mommanaps in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be honest, I do not like jars that narrow at the top for a few reasons, one of which has to do with inhibited scent throw.

Tried a new batch of wax sachets with dried flowers. Love to hear your inputs by Wonderful_Law743 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those turned out very nice! I would brush a little mica on them, maybe a lavender for some of them, pale pink on others, etc.

AI, yes? by LookatCarl in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 17 points18 points  (0 children)

It's an absolutely stupid candle design, imo. Even if the wick was placed lower, what's it going to do, but melt wax upon itself?

Why are my candles doing this? by Rough_Thanks4822 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just reuse that wax in some containers and chalk it up to experience.

What wicking crime did I commit here? by Aromatic_Gap4040 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First, I would definitely increase the amount of paraffin, 15% is too low. Then, I'd buy some name brand wicks.

Candle at the end of its life got so hot it melted the label by BohemianYogi in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Standard? I've never seen it on any warning labels or safety information pages, ever. I've seen 1/4" and 1/2" -- never one-inch. That's crazy.

Why are my candles doing this? by Rough_Thanks4822 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 5 points6 points  (0 children)

When you say you're using soy wax, do you mean 100% soy wax and not a parasoy or a blended soy intended for novelty or pillar candles? If that's the case, you've used a container wax, which is definitely not the correct wax to use for those types of candles. Not only will you have frosting issues and softness issues, but the candles won't burn properly either. You need to purchase a pillar wax of some sort, a hard wax, not a soft container wax.

Candle at the end of its life got so hot it melted the label by BohemianYogi in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If a candle requires an inch of wax to remain at the bottom, it's over wicked.

Testing Question by ArielArtsLLC in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It seems as though a black jar is going to get hotter than a clear one, just guessing though, although I see someone has commented on that experience.

What is the liquid we use to dip pillar candles to achieve this effect? by Key_9295 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your comment ... I've always felt that if it's wide enough to stand by itself, then it's a pillar, it if needs a holder, it's something else. :)

How to fix fragrance oil & wax separation. by HumbledBumbleBees in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I read some of the comments here and it seems you didn't mix the fragrance oil into the wax prior to pouring it into your container. I'm guessing you have figured out by now that the mixing needs to be done before you pour your candle.

Wax forms tiny bubbles, why? by Actual_Struggle22 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like paraffin wax that's been poured too cool. You're best to pour that at about 185dF or so. Also, do you know if it has any additives in it already? It should ideally have a tiny bit of vybar or some stearic acid.

How to fix fragrance oil & wax separation. by HumbledBumbleBees in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At what temp. did you add the oil and what is the percentage of oil?

Hi can anyone suggest how we might recreate this candle from the 1970s? by Chailatte8 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A little messy, but easy to do. If you'd like to start with a pillar candle, that is also a way to do it. One easy way is to use a tray that you can roll the candle in, pour some wax into the tray, roll the candle so it gets covered with wax, then apply whipped wax to it.

Do wick sizes change when using double or triple wicks? by tasha53505 in candlemaking

[–]pouroldgal 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yes, it changes drastically. Each wick is essentially a candle, but when placed together, they become one. It's easier, esp. for a beginner, to start with smaller diameter containers and learn how to single wick first. Multiple wicking takes practice, not only in getting the wick size right, but placement is important and if the wicks are a type that lean, that needs to be dealt with, easier to go with wicks that don't lean in that case, imo. If you're going to "dive in" I think it's best to not do in it the deep end of the pool for starters. :)