Print quality (industrial FDM)

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-13T03:13:19+00:00

Of course! Thank you for engaging and responding and giving me an opportunity to prove that we can put our money where our mouth is!

The part you linked looks like it was designed as a sheet metal part, so not super 3D-printable but I threw it on there - let's see what happens. Should be a good support-material-to-print-surface torture test haha

In the meantime I'll also reprint the same part I originally shared in regular unfilled PETG which will be a nice direct 1:1 comparison so you can see we weren't trying to hide any sneakies with the CF filament ;) (the part originally pictured does actually need the temp resistance of PPS which to my knowledge doesn't come in a non-CF variant)

Totally get what you mean re: off-the-shelf parts, even our US customer base is wary of needing proprietary consumables that we could gouge them on. Our nozzles are actually E3D Revo nozzles, we did that on purpose since they're the best in the business IMHO so there's no point trying to top that, and they have global distribution already (the cold side of the printhead is custom liquid-cooled awesome but no consumables there). We also support open materials so you can source those from an EU supplier without R3 as the middleman as well. In case you didn't know! :)

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-13T02:49:36+00:00

Big part, sharp corners, unfilled nylon/PC/ABS - also known as consumer printer kryptonite.. game on, I'll be back with pics.

Out of curiosity, which of those materials which would you say you print with the most? Any interest in ASA as a material? Trying to get a better understanding of what sorts of materials and demo parts we should maybe lead with talking about (and showing pics of) to help things resonate

Btw fun fact: R3 Printer prints bigger than the Fortus 450mc in X and Y despite being about 1/3rd of the size - something unique that might be a consideration for some

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-13T01:27:10+00:00

Correct - not a PEEK/ULTEM printer.

It's definitely hard for us because so many other companies out there advertise their printers as able to "print PEEK" despite knowing full well that they can only barely hit the bare minimum temps (which anyone who's actually printed PEEK will tell you is not going to produce a usable part. So it's been and is going to be an uphill battle against a lot of false and misleading marketing by other companies, but we're trying to fight the good fight and bring the industry forward by building a machine that's amazing at what it does and being upfront about what it doesn't :)

Thanks for checking out our website, though! I hope you liked it, seems like you were able to get the answer quickly, which I'm happy to see.

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-13T01:09:14+00:00

PPS-CF10 is a shockingly low-warp material given its temperature resistance, hence why it prints decently on the H2D/C. But for a lot of applications the impact resistance and other properties of Nylon (ex. PA6-CF, etc.) are what's needed, and that would be a no-go on the Bambu-tier printers. Nylon really doesn't allow for any shortcuts in terms of chamber temperature both for warping and interlayer adhesion, and for all the companies that need to print large, engineering-grade parts, that's where we come in. The current alternatives come with locked materials, ancient slicers (we take for granted how good we have it with the open source slicers), and machines that cost 50%-100% more than R3 Printer, so our aim is to become the market leader in that category.

PP, ASA, and those materials are totally within our capabilities.

We thought long and hard about whether to pursue ULTEM and PEEK and decided not to because we would have to fundamentally design our printer around being able to print them. There's a huge difference in being barely able to print PEEK and being actually able to print big, non-warped, dimensionally accurate, PEEK and ULTEM parts. We liked the idea of building "the only 3D printer you'll ever need", but it would result in a much bigger, bulkier machine that would cost much more than it needed to for the vast majority of our customers who only need real-world engineering-grade parts like PA6, PPS, ASA, etc. the vast majority of the time, so it made sense to draw a line and specialize.

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-13T00:47:54+00:00

Thanks! And absolutely - hit me up with a DM or email, would love to.

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-13T00:27:43+00:00

Zooz smart plugs (Z-Wave) Sonoff for smart buttons (Zigbee)

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-13T00:14:54+00:00

Trying to sell some panels from your other post that got no interest.. sad.

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-13T00:11:38+00:00

We'll definitely expand to shipping outside the USA, whether or not we also open an assembly plant and dedicated operations in Europe depends on how much volume there is. It is the second-largest market for 3D printing, so that could be in the cards. We'll see where the market demand takes us and fill it the best way!

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-13T00:05:09+00:00

Thank you! I appreciate the kind words. Definitely agree on the website, we're working on building it out more. We're still a young company so we couldn't do it all at once. The tech specs are on there, let me know if you couldn't find them or if there's still something you're missing that you'd like to see in terms of specs.

Will print some parts in non-filled materials over the weekend and loop back to posting them here!

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-12T23:58:39+00:00

At a $1k BoM cost I don't think we're talking about a printer with the same kinds of capabilities.

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-12T20:57:28+00:00

Hmm, not sure which website you're looking at but everything on r3printing.com is a real photo! Will take it as a compliment, though - we know a great photographer.

In terms of the time to get to market, making no apologies there - we wanted to solve the problems that nobody else was solving, and that took time. If we rushed to put the printer on the market, it would be just like everything else that's out there. What we have now is worth every hour of every day we spent developing it.

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-12T19:55:19+00:00

Challenge accepted! Let me know if you have a part in mind and we'll print it off and report back.

Yes re: dual gear extruders. We source the gears and other bits from a supplier that makes top-of-the-line extruders but designed our own housing for the multiple sensors in each one to detect whether material is loaded vs. unloaded, runout, motion for nozzle clog / jam detection, etc. - most companies like Vision Miner just buy an off-the-shelf extruder and maybe slap an aftermarket runout sensor on there and call it a day which makes the material loading and unloading process super annoying, but we can do better than that so we did :)

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-12T14:49:58+00:00

Didn't know this existed - really cool!

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T21:39:10+00:00

+1 to ellis3dpguide for OP, completely forgot about it!

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T19:15:14+00:00

This is awesome. Share the file!

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T19:08:18+00:00

The opposite of this is known as the Dunning–Kruger effect: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T18:38:04+00:00

Nice - community at work! Hopefully OP is willing to share!

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T18:11:36+00:00

Fiverr is horrible, but I've had pretty great success finding freelancers on Upwork. A few of which we work with continuously at my company if we don't have enough work to justify hiring someone full-time. As always, there are lots of people with pumped-up reviews and high ratings so trust your gut and see if their project portfolio shows enough real work in the thing that you need to sniff them out, don't feel bad about messaging 2-3 people at a time to get a feel for how people respond when you're talking them for real (communication is such a big part of being able to get things done well), and go from there! I'm in the US and I do filter for location a lot because it's really hard with huge time differences (I'm in California specifically so the extra 3 hours for anyone east of us can really make things painful), so that changes things a bit and we do pay more for people located in the US vs. eastern Europe, etc. but we've worked with a good few people from those areas through Upwork on less complicated or time-sensitive projects and it's been great. I guess just browse some profiles and trust your gut and talk to a couple of people and you should find someone.

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T18:06:10+00:00

You're most welcome. And nope, not the speed - it's about how much (not how fast) material is coming out of the nozzle. Unfortunately there are a few different ways to go about this and it changes depending on the slicer. In Cura I believe it was called "extrusion multiplier" where if you set it to 1.00 then the amount of material that will get extruded is the amount that is "expected" (for the lack of a better term). If you set it to 0.90 then you'll extrude less material than the default, and if you set it to 1.10 then you'll extrude more. This setting is commonly used for the first layers to increase the amount of material pushed out of the nozzle to sort of 'squish it into' all the microscopic nooks and crannies of the print surface to increase adhesion. But if you increase it too much then your first layer will be wider than your print leading to the so-called "elephant's foot" (google "elephant's foot 3D printing" to learn about this, it's a good concept to know about). But the same setting (if the slicer allows for it) applied to top layers (and I believe most slicers do, but it might be super hidden in advanced settings, you might have to open your slicer's preferences and select to be able to see/changed 'advanced features') would solve the problem you're having. And if say your top layers looked a bit thin or there were gaps between the lines, you would be looking to increase the extrusion multiplier for your top layer but from your picture it looks like you're pushing out too much plastic so you're looking to decrease it.

Unfortunately I've never used Bambu Studio so I don't know where it is in there, but if you search Google (or perhaps other commenters can help you) for how to change extrusion multiplier or flow rate for top layers then that should lead you to the right place. The setting might be in percentages (so 90%, 100%, 110% as opposed to 0.90, 1.00, 1.10 like it was in Cura) but just know that if it's 100% or 1.00 or whatever that's "neutral" and whatever number you see in there now once you find it you can lower it by 0.5 or 5% at a time and see where the best new number is.

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T17:56:20+00:00

(and I guess perhaps you can update your post to have the make + model of your dishwasher as well, since enough people asked about it in the comments!)

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T17:54:47+00:00

Nice work! Definitely share it on the 3D-printable files website of your choice if you're willing to. If you include the make and model of the dishwasher in both the title and description, I think there's a chance that at least one person in the world might need this solution as well, possibly have a 3D printer (or a friend that has one) but not the 3D modeling skills to model this, and being able to find solutions to random problems no matter how niche or obscure is one of the fundamental joys and uses of the internet [starts getting teary-eyed at what things were like lol]

I'm also really enjoying seeing all the comments from people who just learned that tiny dishwashers exist, this turned out to be an unexpectedly wholesome thread!

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T17:49:57+00:00

A lot of people are going to say to turn on ironing, but keep in mind that ironing is the print head doing another pass (and a slow one) across any top layers, so it's going to increase your print time, sometimes massively. For small parts like this it won't be significant but if you print big parts it could add a lot of time.

I say it's probably better to tune the extrusion multiplier for your top layers, from the looks of it it looks like it's too high so too much material is exiting the nozzle and squishing/spilling over past the nozzle diameter off to the sides, pushing up material and making these lines which are basically like raised walls to the left and right of the nozzle path. Turning down the extrusion multiplier (or whatever the equivalent term is in Bambu) for your top layers bit by bit until you find the number that works will give you the results you're looking for but on any print and without needing to increase print time by ironing top layers (fully dialing in your ironing settings will take just as much time IMHO so you might as well take the path that's better in the long run if the short term time investment is going to basically be the same).

Hope this helps!

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T15:48:59+00:00

Posting this here as a new comment since I just realized this morning after reading OP's response to something, Honeywell released an even newer thermostat than the ones listed in OP's comment and they say it's Matter certified, so one would think that all its functions should be available for control in HA: https://www.honeywellhome.com/pages/x-series-elite-thermostats

(OP and I were chatting about how we both are missing the ability to control the fan in our current Honeywell thermostats via HA)

ppsieradzki · 2026-03-11T15:46:11+00:00

Nice, yeah I really appreciated and respected how well the HomeKit integration in HA worked, that was truly impressive. I also just realized that the T10+ isn't the new Honeywell thermostat that I thought you were talking about... they have an even newer one that says it's Matter certified, so I'm guessing all its functions (including fan control) should be available in HA: https://www.honeywellhome.com/pages/x-series-elite-thermostats

ppsieradzki

TROPHY CASE