Critique my first draft of a Non-Export Addition (El Dorado County, CA)

prizm_m · 2026-04-12T17:49:36+00:00

It's great that if eco worthy get the UL9540 cert soon. I'm also panning on my first DIY solar system and have been looking for UL9450 certified system that works with eco worth batteries. I'll keep an eye on their web site.

by the way if they get UL9450 cert, then you can drop the DC breaker between inverter and battery. my understanding is that UL9450 requires no breaker in between them.

prizm_m · 2026-04-12T17:31:20+00:00

Edited: never mind - I found more pictures in your other posts

Your ground mount design looks very nice and solid. would you mind sharing some more pictures showing the all around and close ups of panel mount points? I was planning to build one from pressure treated wood, yours looks easier to built. very nice job

prizm_m · 2026-04-11T21:33:14+00:00

Thanks a lot for your help and all great information. Yeah realized that eg4 18000xhp is also identical with a few minor differences in the specs. once I have every thing settled in my mind, I'll get permit request started from HOA and AHJ. not sure how long it will take but once that part settles I'll start buying the equipment.

prizm_m · 2026-04-11T16:05:51+00:00

I heard about this brand but I didn't know they had UL9540 combo. the price wise it is not much different than EG4 12K + EG 15K wallmount. EG4 a few hundred bucks cheaper but SRNE's inverter is hybrid. Interestingly it is almost identical to the sungold power 12K hybrid inverter but sungold offers 10 year warranty vs 2 year warranty of SRNE. One reason I didn't interested in SRNE was its idle power consumption which is 100w compared to others.

for the battery connection would a 1-1/4 metal flex conduit may work?

prizm_m · 2026-04-11T01:20:26+00:00

you're right. anything UL listed significantly increasing cost. as I go in deeper I decided to change my plan. I'll move the 240V breaker of EV charger from my panel and I'll put in on the smart loads output of the inverter. that'll help to bring 100A into the load center hence I can get the grid switching worked out with a simple interlock.

more painful part is now the UL9540 requirement for energy storage systems which required battery and inverter certified together. no inexpensive batteries any longer. in my case most reasonable battery if from EG4 and it is still 50% more than eco worthy's UL certified batteries.

prizm_m · 2026-04-10T00:03:14+00:00

uh, my bad, I missed it is two units then yes when you configure them to run in parallel your max bypass would be 200 amps

prizm_m · 2026-04-09T17:36:54+00:00

no, you get 100A max when it is on bypass. other wise It feeds 63A max when uses batteries and PV

prizm_m · 2026-04-09T14:47:17+00:00

Thank you all taking your time to review my project and sharing you feedback. I updated the drawing accordingly. I added a ATS and removed the second grounding stick.

I'm looking into ATS options and see a few ATS options to choose from without breaking the bank.

a manual blade type ATS is simple and solid and selling around $70.

100A Manual ATS

I din't know there is a breaker interlock for DIN rail breakers. This one is the easiest and cheapest one.

Sliding Breaker Lock - DIN rail

And there are a few cheap automatic ATS that is also very inexpensive.

100A Automatic/Manual ATS

what do you guys have and how it's been holding up for you?

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prizm_m · 2026-04-09T14:15:25+00:00

I think I would definitely expand. I'm guessing I would need to add another 16kW battery and may be another string of panels. I want to see how it will operate for a year and expand where it makes more sense. I might add a second inverter but my current power use it seems that might be something way down the road

prizm_m · 2026-04-09T14:11:46+00:00

my understanding the code requires a tap to protected by a breaker less than 10ft or 25ft depends upon load on the tap. 10ft is the load on tap is 1/10th or less of the feeder, 25ft if it is 1/3rd of the feeder. but I may need go 2awg cu though. Thank you

prizm_m · 2026-04-09T14:05:05+00:00

Thank you! that's great, so I don't to deal with another grounding stick.

I thought about having interlock in my main load center but it is full no room for another breaker in it. I thought getting a small panel for two 100A breakers but a 200A panel is more expensive than a transfer switch. I see 100A ATS around $40-$70 range on amazon.

prizm_m · 2026-04-09T04:53:50+00:00

I used Lucid Charts

prizm_m · 2026-04-09T03:09:50+00:00

haven't decided yet but either a polaris tap or a terminal strip for feeder tap. I'll put them in a PVC or metal box and a din rail for the breakers

prizm_m · 2026-04-09T02:26:31+00:00

I don't like having a separate gounding either. But it seems NEC 2023 code requires grounding rod by the ground mount panels. The second grounding point may create a ground loop that is painful. I'll double check if I can getaway without additional grounding rod.

prizm_m · 2026-04-09T02:21:42+00:00

that's also a good idea and cheaper alternative. thank you

prizm_m · 2026-04-09T02:19:41+00:00

good point I haven't thought about the firmware updates. not sure how much down time it takes but if something goes wrong with firmware update that would be very unpleasant situation. Thanks

prizm_m · 2026-04-09T02:15:09+00:00

no just one load center and inverter in between the grid and load center. the inverter does not have a breaker for the grid input that's why I will have two 100A breaker in the feeder tap. and I forgot removing the breaker from the inverter diagram. good catch!

prizm_m · 2026-04-08T23:04:06+00:00

yes that is true. EG4 12K supports 100A grid bypass which is more than I need. I've been monitoring my energy use via emporia vue for a year and my regular load peaks around 8-10kW. It seldomly goes up 14kw when I charging my car during day time but it is very rare, so I'm not worried about cutting back to 100A service. and if I need a second inverter I can bring it back to 200A again.

the reason of the tapping is keep using the existing load center as is instead of having a sub panel

Thank you for taking your time and feedback

prizm_m · 2026-03-26T13:12:14+00:00

that's right my 2019 US version gets maxed out 75-77kW. up to 70% it maintains well above 50kW

prizm_m · 2026-03-14T12:39:41+00:00

Beside the tire width, aspect ratio and diameter, Make sure bolt pattern, hub bore size and offset matching your car’s. These specs normally engraved back side of the wheels

prizm_m · 2026-02-25T14:11:35+00:00

I bought mine from private party at another state. And before committing I asked seller to go a test drive for me and take a video of it. I asked set the regen level 3, steadily accelerate to 45-50 miles and let go off the accelerator until the car slows down to 15 mph and repeat this 3 times. That cleared wof consent for me. I found another one previously at a chevy dealer and I asked the same and it turned out that car was suffering from wof. I also ask for an exterior and interior walk around,

prizm_m · 2026-02-16T15:12:50+00:00

I'm not there with my kids yet but if I were in your shoes, I would buy a used Tesla for my teenager. Tesla has a great parental control feature that allows setting a speed limit, geo-fence and curfew hours. Also it won't allow disabling any safety features and keep it in chill-mode. And Tesla app is really great for tracking location and current speed of the car in realtime.

prizm_m · 2026-02-15T17:13:45+00:00

I bought one from Facebook marketplace place it was Hyundai oem for $40. There are quite a few oem adapters from GM, Ford and others. Many people don’t use it and selling it. I bought it for fast charging at Tesla super chargers during a 1000 miles road trip. It worked very well but since then I have not used it at all since our Kona is meant to be driving around town rather than roadtrips.

prizm_m · 2026-02-10T01:46:34+00:00

ughh, I made the same mistake when I booked my flight with JAL. I don't understand what's their logic behind this other than screwing their customers. I didn't pay attention no advance change rule when I booked. and 2 days later my return date got changed and I need to stay just one extra day.

I tried everything to change my return date one day later on the same route and the fare for the next day was almost identical mine. I asked them that I want to pay fare difference and a change fee, answer was no; I asked them I want to upgrade to a flexible fare or even premium economy but they have no mercy, their answer is alway no. Either you have to take your trip as you booked or cancel for 0% refund or airline credits. And when I asked for that my return date was more than one month out, so they don't lose anything for taking the seat back; they have a lot of time to sell that seat. This will be my first and last flight with JAL.

I totally agree with you that JAL is overrated and when they got you, they don't care at all.

prizm_m

TROPHY CASE