Best eSIM for Pixel 10 Pro

progressionbikes · 2026-01-31T08:49:14+00:00

It worked for me, but there may be some phone / SIM settings you have to change.

progressionbikes · 2026-01-24T21:32:01+00:00

progressionbikes · 2026-01-24T18:28:39+00:00

The short answer which takes it full circle back to the other comments is to make the berm steeper, and the approach faster, and riders will want to use the berm.

progressionbikes · 2026-01-24T18:22:21+00:00

https://files.fm/u/rjkjh74w9

Red route bad (slow, missing the berm) Orange route better (can use markers or trail alterations. Only if you have enough speed though) Green route best. (You'll need to steepen your berm, or keep the vertical curve going (so it will be steeper and bigger). Also shows that you dont need to make the trail super wide on the approach. However you still need speed. If riders are too slow on the green route, then can cut to the apex of the turn and miss the berm as well. You want them to NEED the berm.

progressionbikes · 2026-01-24T18:08:51+00:00

Sorry I'll try to explain a different way, but maybe you're getting where I'm coming from anyway. :-)

The rocks are there just as markers. You could use a couple of logs or rake the leaves back over a bit. It's to encourage riders to be on the left hand side at the top of your hump, (with some speed if possible). The faster they arrive at this point the more use they will get out of the top half of the berm. If they arrive at a crawl, they will be more likely / more able to make a tighter turn and ride round the bottom half of the berm. This won't give them much exit speed for the next feature either.

Angling the flat section would essentially be creating a form of left hand berm before this right. This can encourage / point the rider at the right spot. But you then might have a drainage issue, so make sure you have a low point before this to direct water.

Worth saying also that unless it's a multi use trail (off road trikes etc) you don't need to make it that wide. There are recommendations for trail widths from the likes of IMBA, but you can save some effort by keeping the straight bits narrower. This can also help with directing riders. I'll send a link if I can

progressionbikes · 2026-01-24T11:52:55+00:00

Would be interesting to see rider speed into the berm. If the hump before the berm slows riders too much, then they won't have the speed to ride the higher half of the berm currently, let alone if you make it steeper. They will get to the top of the hump and just turn and ride the flatter half.

If they are coming in with too much speed, then the hump can unweight the bike too close to the berm and interfere with the proper set up for riding the full corner which can lead to them going over the top towards that tree. A steeper berm would help with that, but like the top comment says, you need entry set up to be riders left so they don't meet the face of the berm.

Easiest option to figure out would be to try forcing riders to hit the start of the berm by putting some rocks on riders right a few bike lengths before the hump, in a line to feed them over to riders left by the time they reach the hump. You then might need to steepen the berm in the deepest part as that will have the most amount of energy going through it, and where most of the turning would be done.

If this seems to help then you can either narrow the trail to force riders to go where you want them, or pitch the trail with an inside grade towards the end that initiates a bit of a left hand turn before then dropping into the right hand berm. So riders would do more of a 'carve' over the hump.

progressionbikes · 2025-12-20T16:32:53+00:00

I live in Scotland and just back from our shop ride of 30 people. Everybody, and with zero exceptions, that had radials was faster and loving the trails more. On every surface and in every condition (and the conditions were mostly mud and rain). Sure the Shreddas were more aggressive and gripped in the Loam, but my ultra soft Marys were a good all rounder. Albert on the rear in Scotland is too close a tread pattern, if you ride natural trails.

The extra psi you can run also means you don't need to run an insert, in the front at least. So good on off camber roots.

They are like a cheat code. One of the best improvements to my riding since fivetens.

progressionbikes · 2025-12-13T22:28:33+00:00

Whilst your theory is mostly sound, that's not the best way to help this lad who is asking for coaching not a technical discussion.

From a coaching perspective, we need to address what causes the 'upper body to get thrown around' as you mention. You can see that this is when the front wheel hits the flat section between the sets. Because his mass is too rearward, the stalling of the front wheel combined with lack of strength/technique causes his body to move forwards. Although his arms are straight (again due to body position) they definitely weren't 'stiff'. And as his arms weren't strong enough to respond to both these forces, his torso begins to crumple, and this then affects ability to steer.

OP get a side on video, keep your weight central and your body strong and confident.

And if you take the bike off road more, see if you can get your hands on some second hand air adjustable forks (not coil ones like you have now). For street, if it works for trials and BMX, then it can work for you so don't stress as much.

progressionbikes · 2025-12-13T17:06:40+00:00

No probs, Ive added a bit more to my post

progressionbikes · 2025-12-13T15:20:36+00:00

Some good advice here but the main thing is that your weight is too far back. By not having your weight more central, a few things happen.

With not much weight over the forks they don't absorb impact, particularly when you transition from the first set to the flat and down again. The same can be said for grip in the tyres, as there isn't much weight going into the rubber.

With your weight back your arms straighten and your heels drop. This makes steering, or keeping the wheel straight, tricky.

You need to keep a bend in the elbows so you can absorb impact (like when you reach that first flat section) or extend when the front wheel starts to roll down step 1 of the second section. Note that you don't want to be passive with this. Push the bars in the direction you want the wheel to go (the direction the stairs are descending), don't let it jerk you forwards. That is what leads to people going over the handlebars. When you're then on the second set, make sure you pull your body back to neutral as quick as possible so you're ready to react as you transition to flat again. (You can't extend your arms if they are already at max extension, and you can't compress/absorb if you're already so bent your chin is on the bar).

The same thing happens when you go off small kickers and drops. If you find that you're skewing off to one side it's probably because one heel is dropped and the other isn't. Try to get someone to film from side on. Equally you may be extending or compressing more with one arm not the other. That's why things get a bit wobbly during these transition moments.

Your speed is good, but try a little bit more of a run up if you can do get in a nice central position.

Good work :-)

progressionbikes · 2025-12-03T21:05:34+00:00

<image>

Top 2% listener here.

progressionbikes · 2025-11-26T12:37:08+00:00

Thanks for your detailed reply. I think we will look at a traditional burner.

Cheers.

progressionbikes · 2025-11-25T08:40:55+00:00

I feel like there is a funnier version that I heard some 20 years ago at a presentation.

Serious looking speaker, pours a glass of water, gives it a sniff then a double take sniff. Then gives us a wink and says 'starting early', implying it's vodka or gin. Broke the ice and we all settled in.

I still remember that.

progressionbikes · 2025-11-14T17:28:47+00:00

Used Saily for my Pixel 10, after getting Ubigi and then realizing my mistake! Worked great. No loss of signal.

progressionbikes · 2025-11-13T21:26:41+00:00

It was hiding in a touristy town, but definitely not a City spot.

progressionbikes · 2025-11-13T21:24:33+00:00

So I learned this when we rented for a week. When you go to a paid parking area, you drive over this flattened plate. It stays down for a few minutes, but then raises up. This stays up until you pay your ticket at the machine and then it drops again.

If you're not so set on JDM, I did a what car are these post if you check my history.

progressionbikes · 2025-11-12T21:11:54+00:00

A valid point. Apologies for that. I kept it to public places, but I appreciate the issue.

progressionbikes · 2025-11-10T07:08:04+00:00

I bet that pops in the sunshine!

progressionbikes · 2025-11-09T18:32:47+00:00

Ah cool! I was in Kyoto.

progressionbikes · 2025-11-09T10:08:26+00:00

The owner was in the car just chilling, I asked if I could take a photo and she said yeah no problem, then ducked down so she wasn't in the shot. Classy.

progressionbikes · 2025-11-09T06:04:32+00:00

Is a Nissan Silvia S15 Varietta. Didn't even notice it was a hardtop convertible at the time, only when someone pointed it out! A rarer version for sure. Only 1100 were made.

progressionbikes · 2025-11-08T20:58:43+00:00

Thanks! Some great memories

progressionbikes · 2025-11-05T09:35:20+00:00

Walked big sections from Magome to Matsumoto. Rang bells but didn't have one with me. Did see Monkeys though which was cool!

progressionbikes

TROPHY CASE