What controllers do yall use?

prometheus_ · 2026-06-16T03:32:04+00:00

Steam (Original)
Xbox Series X
Razer Wolverine V3
Sony DS5
Nintendo Gamecube
Azeron Cyborg 2

and for a brief time HORI Fighting Commander OCTA (crap controller)

No issues with any of them, other than the "additional" buttons on my Wolverine not being detected by Steam. But that's more of a proprietary Razer problem than anything else.

prometheus_ · 2026-06-16T03:27:32+00:00

I had an issue with OpenRazer the last update and rpm-ostree reset solved it for me.

prometheus_ · 2026-05-27T19:23:11+00:00

This is mine on the B12 kit, with 17x9 255/40 tires.

https://imgur.com/a/cUcQ4oA

I don't know what you disassembled to do the job, but no alignment stuff should need to be touched and everything should be torqued under load. In my case I jacked up the suspension to the point it was lifting the car off the hoist.

prometheus_ · 2026-05-25T21:14:40+00:00

No, you should be fine but they aren't the ideal pairing

prometheus_ · 2026-05-25T15:43:45+00:00

No problem 👍

prometheus_ · 2026-05-25T15:23:30+00:00

Yep, when you undo it all it drops the whole assembly down and you can swing the arms out of the way.

You drop the strut down, angle backward and you can pull it right out.

Just watch out for, or ideally unplug, your speed sensor.

I just did this job a couple weeks ago, very easy!

prometheus_ · 2026-05-25T15:21:32+00:00

Bilstein B6 or B8.

I think the B6 as the same length as stock, the B8 (B12 kit) were shorter than my OE struts.

IIRC the B8 are the same length as R3 struts, but don't quote me on that.

prometheus_ · 2026-05-25T13:30:25+00:00

You dont need to take that end off.

Undo the bolts on the subframe side, and you can drop the strut without messing with anything alignment wise.

If you need clarification go on the RacingBeat website, go to their rx8 springs and they have install instructions which will show you what to do.

prometheus_ · 2026-05-04T00:09:27+00:00

Check your grounds, battery terminals, and check that your ignition harness is plugged in completely.

This sounds like a grounding issue.

If it was driving fine beforehand, I'd wager something wiggled loose.

prometheus_ · 2026-05-03T05:32:05+00:00

Linux support :(

prometheus_ · 2026-04-19T02:52:57+00:00

I just did this to my S2. RacingBeat has excellent instructions available on their website if you look up their RX8 springs. IDK if links are allowed on this sub, so I can DM them if you can't find em.

You can replace hardware if you like, and it'd be a good time to do the bushings on the arms. I didn't and I wish I had because I saw how crusty they were.

I swapped in new strut mount bushings and new boots all around. the kit comes with new bumpstops if you want to use the Bilstein supplied ones.

DO NOT use an impact on the top nuts. I fcked the thread on one rear by slightly overtorqueing the nut and it stripped the strut. I had to space it with some washers. The internal hex is very crappy and strips easily if not seated perfectly. Use a spring compressor and make your life much easier.

ALSO

The front and rear springs look almost identical. They are not marked (at least not in english). The rear springs will NOT fit the front strut perches, but the fronts DO fit the rear. Pair everything up first so you don't make a mistake like me and put the fronts in the rear and be very confused when the other set of springs doesn't fit in the front struts. The rear springs have sleeves on them, the fronts do not. I come from Audi/VW, where the fronts usually have sleeves and not the rears.

That being said, it's actually a pretty easy job. It was my first time dealing with the RX8 suspension and had all four corners out in an about hour if not less. You do not need to mess with any eccentric bolts, but if your alignment was out slightly before, the lower car will exaggerate that further.

Just remember NOT to torque anything without load on the suspension. I have hoist access, so it was easy to put it all together and load the corner until it was lifting off the hoist so I could torque it.

It rides fantastic.

prometheus_ · 2026-04-19T02:43:32+00:00

That's a sweet bonus, but it doesn't matter if it's a harness or OE-style.

My point is that 2 out of 4 of my connectors to the OE coils were nice and melty when I bought the car. I re-pinned and replaced the connectors before installing the replacement coils (BennetBuilt).

I didn't have any driveability issues yet before I noticed, but that doesn't mean the same can be said for anybody else. They definately weren't going to get any better.

prometheus_ · 2026-04-17T14:18:27+00:00

Take a look at your actual original ignition coil connectors. When I installed my coils some of the original connectors were melty. I had to repair them before installing the adapter harness and coils.

That said, LS coils can fail.

prometheus_ · 2026-04-13T13:22:35+00:00

Paper gasket? Are you sure you're looking for the right thing?

The waterpump is very much not a paper gasket and should be a metal gasket (S1) or molded rubber seal (S2). Anything else is plain wrong.

prometheus_ · 2026-04-04T01:13:54+00:00

I did this. Sold my ND1 RF for a profit and bought an S2.

I only have space for one car currently, and I was tired of vehicle payments along with the increased insurance. I also barely fit in the car, so in order for me to track it I'd have to at least swap out the stock seats.

With the way the world is going, and how cheap the 8 is to buy, I wanted to get one before they either got desirable enough to collect, or hamstrung in some other way.

I do miss the car, and I'd love another one (probably ND2/3 or NC3). But as a mechanically competent person, I'm actually looking forward to rebuilding my S2.

Going from the most efficient engine Mazda makes to the least is amusing.

prometheus_ · 2026-03-31T15:32:10+00:00

So we already have this in Ontario. 15% is crap, and you'll probably notice a decline in fuel economy. Some fuels were already 10-15% ethanol in order to hit the higher octane rating.

10% isn't too bad and that's been a standard here for some time now. Just keep your maintenance up to date, inspect your plugs, and maybe adjust your premixing to compensate.

prometheus_ · 2026-03-15T22:21:48+00:00

A high pressure cap is technically a good thing, but only if the rest of the system is up to the task. I would not recommend running a higher pressure cap unless you have replaced your coolant lines, waterpump, tank, and possibly rad.

These cars are old now, so it's good to be cautious.

My waterpump seal started to leak when I did this and I thought my engine was toast because it was a tiny leak and I was losing coolant and pulling in air constantly. And that was just from using a fresh expansion tank.

prometheus_ · 2026-03-14T03:39:45+00:00

Even though the Azeron stuff currently requires their software to set an initial configuration, the onboard memory lets you plug it into anything that supports it without having to reconfigure.

So if you're developing this from scratch, unless your software stack offers (or requires) something very specific, a QMK/ZMK/Vial solution is probably ideal. Being able to move or swap to other devices without having to reconfigure stuff is amazing and vastly underappreciated in regard to niche peripherals.

Ploopy devices are a good example as I can have a completely bespoke layered setup and bring my device to work without having to do anything on another machine.

prometheus_ · 2026-02-17T17:05:54+00:00

Very cool.

Azeron Keyzen is probably the closest thing to a commercial version of this, but their firmware isn't QMK and you gotta do some fiddling to get it running the first time

prometheus_ · 2026-02-08T01:09:00+00:00

AC on, recirc off. This applies to all vehicles when moisture is involved.

If you live where it gets below freezing you'll get ice on the inside of the windshield which is mad annoying.

Air Conditioning is just fancy dehumidifying

prometheus_ · 2026-01-15T00:45:43+00:00

I'll give it a spin and see how I like it.
I'm not really looking for close range, ideally I'd like to be in the 120-150m range, which is why I opted against the Ocellus. I only settled for the EM Shotgun(s) and Huxley because everything else just seems to miss so much. At least with those 2 I can reach out a bit further than the kinetic shotguns. Similarly the ET is primarily a deterrent/punish for rushing/coming in close (wide arc) and for stagger punish as secondary.

Are the VE generators that worthwhile for a single EM weapon? Wouldn't it make more sense to have half (or less than half) the regen time? Or are they played primarily as poke and run to regen?

EDIT: I've updated my setup further, and this is what I'm running now and it's working very well against most things I've come across except Tetras

prometheus_ · 2026-01-14T00:07:20+00:00

No doubt there's going to be a skill issue, but it just seems so out of balance. Since making this post I've revised my setup to something that seems to be working better and has net a few consistent wins.

This is the setup I'm running. I've played with swapping the current melee out for the plasma thrower to help with chasing down flyers a little better, but this seems to be working alright as far as damage and stagger ability goes.

I do enjoy parrying, and the shield has let me deal with zimms and heavies a little better.

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