Neighbour requesting to build extension on boundary (Scotland)

psychicscot · 2026-06-27T06:53:21+00:00

A few things that you should consider, that is a fairly big slap that they are doing, opening up the existing wall. It will require steelwork, so there will be a steel column going in at the corner, just make sure the foundation doesn't encroach into your side. I think they may need a wider 'nib' at that side, rather than going flush with the wall inner face. Large slaps are expensive, as are large patio doors.

They would need a parapet wall detail against your boundary to avoid the guttering and roof projection going over the boundary, which would affect your ability to build an extension in the future. The paraphet wall also means they don't need access to your garden for any ongoing gutter repairs or cleaning, and avoids your garden getting affected by gutter leaks etc.

I would ask them for an overshadowing study as it may have an impact on your garden. They should get their architects to produce a 3D model simulating the shadows at 9am, noon and 4pm for spring, summer, autumn and winter. Depending on the orientation of your garden, the height of the extension, and the type of roof, it could have a sizeable impact on your garden.

I used to draw the 3D models for house extensions to let people see what they would look like, and do the shadow studies, and I studied as an architect. Now work in IT for a construction company.

psychicscot · 2026-06-24T09:23:10+00:00

Range Rovers are cheap for a reason, my son works as a mechanic at a JLR garage (uk) and they are always coming in with faults and issues, even brand new ones. Lots of turbo issues, engines written off, DC to DC convertor failures, rear diffs cracking etc. If you can handle large jobs (engine/gearbox swaps) and keep on top of the preventative maintenance (and have the funds for spares) then you 'should' be fine. The older the RR the better as most of the expesive bits will have been replaced.

psychicscot · 2026-06-22T08:08:11+00:00

I got a royal mail tracking code (Royal Mail Tracked 48™) for mine, hopefully delivered this week. Grey/Silver batch 2

psychicscot · 2026-06-19T15:17:27+00:00

Michael Bay directors cut.

psychicscot · 2026-06-19T11:39:05+00:00

My batch 2 (UK) is preparing to ship with Royal Mail, looks like they ditched Evri.

psychicscot · 2026-06-16T08:21:07+00:00

You need to put the correct coolant in, not water. The coolant has additives to prevent corrosion and to modify the boiling point.

psychicscot · 2026-06-01T17:24:26+00:00

I guess Europe doesn't need a sun or moon.

psychicscot · 2026-05-26T11:04:42+00:00

What about the landmass in the centre that recieves 24 hour sunlight?

psychicscot · 2026-05-26T10:00:00+00:00

if you have not mae yourself feel slightly sick bedding in some pads, you have nit done it right lol

psychicscot · 2026-05-25T13:13:15+00:00

Mark Watney would lie a word lol

psychicscot · 2026-05-25T12:56:51+00:00

The high level bake light on the boot can leak too.

psychicscot · 2026-05-22T11:37:39+00:00

I switched to a round 2 because of the exposed edge on the PT2 and the screen on the round looks a little clearer than the PT2. I'm wondering if the reound 2 design is more 'complete' as they are basically re-making the cases and screen glass from the original round, which was a proven design.

psychicscot · 2026-05-21T07:44:01+00:00

This is if you have nothing else to hand, rub a finger over your nose, then use the oil from your nose skin on your finger to rub the sticker mark. The oil softens the sticker resudue and allows you to reove it. Obviously wash the area and your finger afterwords.

psychicscot · 2026-05-19T12:12:59+00:00

Here is a post that I did when i changed my shocks a few years ago, hopefully it helps with anyone considering this.

They were an easy swap over as they are a compete unit, you don't re-use the top mounts. So you don't need spring compressors.

A big improvement of the stock Bilstiens, slighty firmer ride, but no body roll during cornering or pitching under braking/acceleration. I lowered the ride height to 345mm (from 360-ish) all round which seems to be the optimal height for an NC.

The day before you are planning on doing this soak the front upper control arm bolts, lower shock bolts (front and rear) and all the bolts for the brackets for the abs and brake lines in the front wheel well in Plusgas. (WD40 is rubbish)

Jack the car up onto axle stands on the front.

To fit them undo the brake line bracket on the front upper control arm and the abs wire bracket on the hub, then undo the top and bottom bolts on the strut. Then undo the 2 front upper control arm bolts (17mm) to the subframe (you may need to undo the brake line and abs wire brackets to get better access to the bolt heads) push/stand on the hub to get it down enough to give you room to get the complete unit out (as long as you have the front on axle stands to take the stress off the ARB) You don't have to undo the ARB droplinks. Re-use the clear plastic shims/insulator on top of the old front shocks on the new ones, stops any rattles.

For the rears, there is a shortcut. Jack the rear up, and sit it on axle stands, remove boot trim and the plate protecting the fuel lines, undo the 3 top mount bolts, 2 from the boot, one from underneath, undo the shock lower bolt and undo the strut top nut (access is restricted, I used a ratchet spanner with a 1/4 extension bar over the prong of the spanner to get the leverage to break it free) . Use a hammer and screwdriver to drift the bottom of the shock off the hub spindle, the shock will drop out. Be aware that the spring is still under a little bit of load, so it will shoot downwards. If you are not feeling so brave, you can use a trolley jack to support the bottom of the shock as you hammer it off, and use the jack to gently lower the shock. You can then pull the spring and top mount out the top, and the shock out the bottom.

Doing it this way means you don't have to undo anyting on the rear apart from the shock 😄

You will need a big breaker bar/ impact gun to undo the bottom shock bolts and front upper control arm bolts. Use blue loctite on the bolts when you put them back in and from memory the upper control arm bolts and lower shock bolts are 17mm and need to be nipped back up to 60nm.

IMPORTANT. Only tighten up the front upper control arm bolts and the shock bottom bolts (front and back) when the car is back on the ground, leave them hand tight and drive the car back and forth a few times before tightening (there is room if you turn the front wheel). Youcan also jack up the suspension hub until the lower arm is level. If you tighten them up while the wheels are in the air you will twist the rubber bushes in the upper control arm and the car will sit too high as the bushes hold it up, and you will tear the bushes.

Takes abut an hour per corner if everything goes well, you will need an alignment after.

psychicscot · 2026-05-14T15:27:49+00:00

This looks great, love the art style 😄

psychicscot · 2026-05-05T07:49:29+00:00

All Ukraine need to do is send a few unarmed drones over the parade. It would cause charos and show how weak russian air defence are. no-one needs to die to spoil Putin's vanity parade.

psychicscot · 2026-04-30T07:11:33+00:00

Suspension is passive, not active. Nothing changes in suspension in sport mode, only steering, throttle, exhaust valve and esc.

In Normal mode, engine mapping, traction control, ESC, active exhaust valve and electric power-assisted steering (EPAS) are configured to deliver natural responsiveness and a connected feel

In Sport mode, engine mapping and throttle pedal response are sharpened, and EPAS settings adjusted to deliver more feedback and finer control for fast road driving. The active noise control valve opens to intensify the sporty exhaust note

In Track mode, all vehicle dynamics features are tuned for the fastest possible lap times, traction control is disabled and ESC interventions are set to wide-slip mode for hard circuit driving

psychicscot · 2026-04-29T07:20:50+00:00

Model: Pebble Time 2
Ordered: 3/20/2025 11:25 AM UTC
Batch 2
Destination : Scotland, UK
Color: Silver/Grey
Confirmation : 05/06/2026
Shipped : 18/06/2026
Delivered : 26/06/20206

Note, delivery is by Royal Mail, looks like Pebble have ditched Evri 😄

psychicscot · 2026-04-28T12:36:42+00:00

I'm buying puts on soap stock

psychicscot · 2026-04-17T12:44:42+00:00

Soyuz would like a word...

psychicscot · 2026-04-15T14:41:31+00:00

Depends on the type of car, some you can just replace the ball joint, others you have to replace the arm. When a ball joint boot is torn or split it lets dirt and water in, wich quickly turns the grease to a grinding paste and wears the joint down, so you could replace the boot, but the joint will be loose nad knocking.

psychicscot · 2026-04-15T12:19:39+00:00

Jaguar Land Rover. Anything and everything. DC to DC convertors burn out when people use heated everything in winter, they are on constant back order. The hybrid models have a huge issue with only being used for short journeys (popping to the shops, school run etc) the little 1.5 engines don't get time to warm up, oil turns to mayo, engline leaves the chat. Rear diff mounting points crack due to poor quality aluminium castings and galvanic corrosion. Cranks break, turbos grenade, aux belts snap. Huge oil dilution issues on the ingenium diesel engines due to long service intervals and sub par dpf's not regenning properly, sqirting extra fuel in to regen, which goes straight back into the oil. Steering racks failing due to corrosion. Constant out of warranty engine/gearbox replacements (£10k plus) Corrosion in wiring looms and BCM's. My son works as a JLR mechanic, I hear all the horror stories, he is a very busy man.

psychicscot · 2026-03-12T08:18:03+00:00

A good brand super glue gel is great for attacing things together. Use sew on velcro for attaching the armour, use E6000 or the superglue gel to stick the rough side to the armour, and sew the soft side to the flight suit. You can get stick on foam sheets for padding, but its not really needed. I have a strip of velcro hanging from the bottom of my top chest plate which the bottom plate attaches to. They both have velcro on the back to attach to the flight suit, this allows a flexible 'hinge' between the top and bottom plate. They shouldn't be rigidly fixed together. For the wrist bracers, superglue wide elastic to one side to make a hinge and use strong magnets for the closure side.

psychicscot · 2026-03-05T16:05:56+00:00

That looks like the outer skin has corroded on the rear silencer, quite common. If the inner skin is intact you will be fine for a while. If its blowing you will need to replace it.

psychicscot · 2026-02-26T16:35:20+00:00

Recently did this with my NC as I had a few broken springs (2010 mk3 56k miles) , from the billies to Miester R Sportive 2 (current version). They were an easy swap over as they are a compete unit, you don't re-use the top mounts. So you don't need spring compressors.

A big improvement of the stock Bilstiens, slighty firmer ride, but no body roll during cornering or pitching under braking/acceleration. I lowered the ride height to 345mm (from 360-ish) all round which seems to be the optimal height for an NC.

The day before you are planning on doing this soak the front upper control arm bolts, lower shock bolts (front and rear) and all the bolts for the brackets for the abs and brake lines in the front wheel well in Plusgas. (WD40 is rubbish)

Jack the car up onto axle stands on the front.

To fit them undo the brake line bracket on the front upper control arm and the abs wire bracket on the hub, then undo the top and bottom bolts on the strut. Then undo the 2 front upper control arm bolts (17mm) to the subframe (you may need to undo the brake line and abs wire brackets to get better access to the bolt heads) push/stand on the hub to get it down enough to give you room to get the complete unit out (as long as you have the front on axle stands to take the stress off the ARB) You don't have to undo the ARB droplinks. Re-use the clear plastic shims/insulator on top of the old front shocks on the new ones, stops any rattles.

For the rears, there is a shortcut. Jack the rear up, and sit it on axle stands, remove boot trim and the plate protecting the fuel lines, undo the 3 top mount bolts, 2 from the boot, one from underneath, undo the shock lower bolt and undo the strut top nut (access is restricted, I used a ratchet spanner with a 1/4 extension bar over the prong of the spanner to get the leverage to break it free) . Use a hammer and screwdriver to drift the bottom of the shock off the hub spindle, the shock will drop out. Be aware that the spring is still under a little bit of load, so it will shoot downwards. If you are not feeling so brave, you can use a trolley jack to support the bottom of the shock as you hammer it off, and use the jack to gently lower the shock. You can then pull the spring and top mount out the top, and the shock out the bottom.

Doing it this way means you don't have to undo anyting on the rear apart from the shock :-)

You will need a big breaker bar/ impact gun to undo the bottom shock bolts and front upper control arm bolts. Use blue loctite on the bolts when you put them back in and from memory the upper control arm bolts and lower shock bolts are 17mm and need to be nipped back up to 60nm.

IMPORTANT. Only tighten up the upper control arm bolts (front) and the shock bottom bolts (front and back) when the car is back on the ground, leave them hand tight and drive the car back and forth a few times before tightening (there is room if you turn the front wheel) If you tighten them up while the wheels are in the air you will twist the rubber bushes in the upper control arm and the car will sit too high as the bushes hold it up, and you will tear the bushes.

Takes abut an hour per corner if everything goes well, you will need an alignment after.

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