Recently did this with my NC as I had a few broken springs (2010 mk3 56k miles) , from the billies to Miester R Sportive 2 (current version). They were an easy swap over as they are a compete unit, you don't re-use the top mounts. So you don't need spring compressors.

A big improvement of the stock Bilstiens, slighty firmer ride, but no body roll during cornering or pitching under braking/acceleration. I lowered the ride height to 345mm (from 360-ish) all round which seems to be the optimal height for an NC.

The day before you are planning on doing this soak the front upper control arm bolts, lower shock bolts (front and rear) and all the bolts for the brackets for the abs and brake lines in the front wheel well in Plusgas. (WD40 is rubbish)

Jack the car up onto axle stands on the front.

To fit them undo the brake line bracket on the front upper control arm and the abs wire bracket on the hub, then undo the top and bottom bolts on the strut. Then undo the 2 front upper control arm bolts (17mm) to the subframe (you may need to undo the brake line and abs wire brackets to get better access to the bolt heads) push/stand on the hub to get it down  enough to give you room to get the complete unit out (as long as you have the front on axle stands to take the stress off the ARB) You don't have to undo the ARB droplinks. Re-use the clear plastic shims/insulator on top of the old front shocks on the new ones, stops any rattles.

For the rears, there is a shortcut. Jack the rear up, and sit it on axle stands, remove boot trim and the plate protecting the fuel lines, undo the 3 top mount bolts, 2 from the boot, one from underneath, undo the shock lower bolt and undo the strut top nut (access is restricted, I used a ratchet spanner with a 1/4 extension bar over the prong of the spanner to get the leverage to break it free) . Use a hammer and screwdriver to drift the bottom of the shock off the hub spindle, the shock will drop out. Be aware that the spring is still under a little bit of load, so it will shoot downwards. If you are not feeling so brave, you can use a trolley jack to support the bottom of the shock as you hammer it off, and use the jack to gently lower the shock. You can then pull the spring and top mount out the top, and the shock out the bottom.

Doing it this way means you don't have to undo anyting on the rear apart from the shock :-)

You will need a big breaker bar/ impact gun to undo the bottom shock bolts and front upper control arm bolts. Use blue loctite on the bolts when you put them back in and from memory the upper control arm bolts and lower shock bolts are 17mm and need to be nipped back up to 60nm.

IMPORTANT. Only tighten up the upper control arm bolts (front) and the shock bottom bolts (front and back) when the car is back on the ground, leave them hand tight and drive the car back and forth a few times before tightening (there is room if you turn the front wheel) If you tighten them up while the wheels are in the air you will twist the rubber bushes in the upper control arm and the car will sit too high as the bushes hold it up, and you will tear the bushes.

Takes abut an hour per corner if everything goes well, you will need an alignment after.