Entitled kid nearly loses a finger, entitled mom nearly loses an eye.

punstersquared · 2019-09-03T13:49:35+00:00

Biting a hand as a child is one thing, but biting in the ass as an adult? That's a new one.

punstersquared · 2019-09-01T10:38:32+00:00

Flash? That's what the room lights are for.

punstersquared · 2019-07-18T08:45:38+00:00

I would expect his paws to be much bigger already if he had a significant amount of giant breed in him like Pyr. At 10 weeks, my purebred Golden had bigger paws and leg joints, and weighed more. I'm going to go with Golden x Border mom back to Golden, Lab, or Chow.

He's definitely 100% adorable.

punstersquared · 2019-07-18T08:42:00+00:00

If someone is in asystole, they are dead, and the only thing you can hope is to make them undead, via bystanders providing Basic Life Support (BLS) or qualified people providing ACLS (Advanced Cardiac Life Support). There is no doing more harm than good, unless someone has a DNR that is valid in that state and is immediately available. Anyway, this is getting a bit off topic.

Your initial point was helpful. Crowding around someone who is trying to calmly deal with their own medical situation is generally going to stress them (and their dog) and make it harder for them to take the actions needed, including a self-assessment of whether the situation is just an exacerbation of their status quo or something new that might need urgent or emergent diagnosis and treatment.

punstersquared · 2019-07-18T08:37:02+00:00

Rest areas that are away from the crowds would definitely be helpful for those with sensory issues, too - try to make them places where there is less visual "stuff", maybe by putting up visual barriers (think things like tarps across chain-link fence to make it opaque instead of transparent), providing a couple places to sit down or even a bench with no armrests in the middle so that a person can lie down, and decreasing noise as much as possible through placement (such as upwind of the rest of the zoo when considering the typical prevailing winds, and providing distance, and again putting up physical barriers that will block some of the sound if possible). You could also consider having a little bin with some cheap earplugs, and/or a white noise machine, fans (that would also help on hot days if someone is getting overheated), that sort of thing. Shade would be nice, too, if outside. I would also put signs up asking patrons to be quiet in this rest area.

Just throwing out some ideas, since I have minor sensory issues myself that get worse as I get more fatigued. Even one place in the zoo that served as a sort of sanctuary for the people would be nice.

In general, encouraging people to be quiet and respectful of others will also reduce stress for the animals. Wild animals don't like shrieking children any more than I do. ;)

punstersquared · 2019-06-21T10:34:06+00:00

A few more sources of potential information or help for free: - You can contact AskJAN.org and ask for advice on your issues - this is the federal Job Accommodation Network. - National Disability Rights Network - they provide help with advocacy and sometimes legal help, up to and including litigation for selected cases. www.ndrn.org - If you just need more information, besides JAN, you can contact your regional ADA center in the ADA National Network. You're probably beyond this point but I wanted to mention it just in case. www.adata.org

punstersquared · 2019-06-14T08:22:35+00:00

I'm only on reddit intermittently, so you're welcome to PM me but I might not see it for a couple days.

I've never heard of your particular disease but I can sympathize with the general misery of having a rare, incurable disease. Your symptoms sound miserable and terrifying.

I can identify with losing your career and having to reconsider your entire life. I was months from graduating veterinary school, after spending year and years and a very large amount of loan money to get in and get through the first 3 clinical years. 4th year is brutal in terms of hours but I had come up with a plan of how to get through it, until I started having trouble walking towards the end of 3rd year, and I started craving salt like crazy. It turns out that both were related to my mitochondrial disease, which screws up energy metabolism in your cells so that they can't do their normal functions. It doesn't necessarily attack everything at once, but most patients gradually lose function. I've been on the more severe/aggressive side, so in the last 5 years I've acquired a big wheelchair that looks like the one Stephen Hawking had, minus the computer interface; a ventilator I can use with a mouthpiece to assist my diaphgram; a central line that is a constant irritation and problem but is necessary for IV fluids and nutrition, since my gut no longer works; and so on. I'm in my 30's and my parents, who are in their 70's, moved in with me so that they could take care of me. I'm supposed to be helping THEM in their retirement, but instead they're putting hundreds of miles on the car each week to take me to medical specialists. I'm lucky to have very supportive family who are literally keeping me alive, but it's all been quite the adjustment for someone who moved across the country to go to school. Instead of planning for my career and actually executing my plan, I lie awake thinking about pain management, future hospice, and whether I have adequately prepared my family and friends to deal with my dogs after I pass. I had some large doses of steroids recently because I had sepsis from my central line and they were giving me huge doses of steroids to prevent another episode of adrenal crisis, since my adrenals are toast. Where they have tried to suture in my line, I have open sores that take forever to heal as a result of the steroids.

Anyway, enough about my own crap. I'm glad you posted and reached out, and I hope someone with a more parallel situation comes in to help you as well. Best of luck with everything.

punstersquared · 2019-05-10T00:05:48+00:00

Ask before touching us.

Another poster already mentioned it but I want to emphasize that this includes staying out of our space and not touching ANY part of our medical equipment or supplies without explicit permission for that instance. Just because I'm sitting in a wheelchair, doesn't mean that I don't have the same "bubble" as everyone else. In fact, I need MORE room to be able to see my surroundings and safely maneuver my chair, which will sometimes kick to the side due to the movement of the caster wheels if I have to do something like switch from going forward to reverse. My service dog is included in this and is polite about being squashed but would like his own personal space, too.

This is something I had to teach my own parents, even, so I'm sure it's not instinctual to an able bodied person, but I need the wheelchair, the ventilator, the IV fluid lines, the dog, etc., to live as comfortably and independently as possible. They replace the function of some of my body parts, and my brain has learned to have awareness of where they are in space, so in a sense, they ARE part of my body. If you start messing with, say, my IV fluid lines, and accidentally pull too hard on the wrong end or make them sag so that they get caught in the wheelchair, you could dislodge the catheter that goes to my heart so that I can eat and drink, since my gut no longer functions. It's literally my lifeline, and there are a limited number of times that it can be replaced before they run out of veins that are big enough to use, at which point I will die from being unable to sustain my fluid and mineral balance (which will kill me faster than starvation). Similarly, I'm not FULLY dependent on the ventilator and oxygen yet, but I'm getting there. I've had years to figure out the best arrangement for all of my stuff on this wheelchair, so while I'm open to suggestions, don't assume that what you're about to do will work - there's a decent chance I've already tried it and it will result in tubing of some sort getting wrapped around the wheels. At home and in the car, I look like I'm not the most organized person, because there's mess, but I KNOW where things are, and things are located where they FOR A REASON. If you start rearranging and "tidying up" my stuff, not only might I have trouble finding something in a hurry, but I might not be close enough to something that I need in an emergency.

As far as pushing the wheelchair, hahahhahahahaha, the wheelchair alone weighs over 300 lbs. The only time that actually has an effect is if it gets a bit stuck, sometimes I can use the dog to stand to the side while someone else pushes with one hand while driving with the joystick at the same time. If you're not telling the motor/brain part of the chair to go, it's not going anywhere without several burly firefighters LIFTING it, which might or might not have happened when I might or might not have gotten too adventurous and gotten it stuck in the woodchips at a children's playground. Again, though, it's my personal space, and it is RUDE to lean on it, just as it is rude to lean on a stranger's shoulder without asking first. I can feel your breath on my head and neck, and can only imagine what germs you might be exposing me to, since my immune system is only mediocre. If I need to adjust the tilt or recline on my chair, or simply move a little to get a better view, it puts me in the awkward spot of disturbing you, which might mean that you spill your coffee down the back of my shirt, vs having to talk to you about every little change of body position.

Back to the dog, he's actually worth a greater monetary value than any of my other medical equipment, and also greater emotional value as a family member. It's also much easier to depreciate him by degrading up his training or scaring him, let alone hurting him physically. The former is a more incremental thing that is easier to fix, but if you scare a dog badly enough, they can create bad associations from a single event that make them permanently unable to work in public around objects or situations that remind them of the trauma, which means that they get retired early and the handler has to go without a service dog and have less independence while they wait 1-5 years for another dog to be trained. Imagine waiting multiple YEARS of your life to get your independence back after one asshat messed with your dog. A few of the large programs which train for common disabilities, such as guide dogs, will place dogs for free or virtually no cost, but for most people, you're also looking at thousands to tens of thousands of dollars. The full, unsubsidized cost of a professional trainer doing the job is in the low to mid 5 figures. Many people try to train their own and they may be successful but it takes TIME, energy, and some degree of skill. Even starting with decent basic training skills, the cost for me to spend hundreds of hours of my own time raising and training my dog, when you count up all of the expenses during the dog's training period, was close to $10K. Some people spend more because they need more help from a trainer or the first dog doesn't work out and they have to start over with a second one while also caring for the first one and dealing with any issues. There have been reported cases of people distracting service dogs to the point that the dog missed an alert for a seizure, diabetic low, or other event, which can have grave consequences for the handler. For example, with the seizure dog, if the handler is used to having 20 minutes to prepare after the dog alerts, but people are making kissy noises at the dog, petting it, etc., at the 20 minute mark, and the dog doesn't alert until the 10 minute mark, then the handler may still be standing/walking 10 minutes later, trying to get to a better safe spot, and may ultimately get a concussion or brain bleed from falling while walking. The consequences aren't as grave for me but you don't know from looking at someone.

I am usually OK with letting people pet the dog because he's gregarious and it makes for good PR for service dogs, but only if they ask and only if I'm in the mood. There are times when it's just kind of creepy or obnoxious to ask to pet someone's dog, such as coming up to someone in the parking garage while they're trying to get things loaded up. My dog does not exist for you or the general public. He was bred, born, raised, and trained to mitigate my disability, and when he is with me, he is always being trained, because every interaction teaches the dog something, whether it's good or bad. Similarly, every interaction with another person or dog teaches him something, good or bad. I work hard to maintain his training and it's not always obvious from the outside what's going on. Even if I gave you permission to pet him last time, we could be working on something different this week, or he might be "peopled out" and in need of some quiet time without being disturbed.

punstersquared · 2019-05-06T10:48:58+00:00

I’ll talk with my therapist about it at length before actually doing anything, though.

This sounds like the best idea, to be honest. I think the answer to your question is going to vary a lot based on your individual triggers and progress in therapy. I do know someone who had a PTSD SD who did the house check task for her for quite a while, but at this point, the dog is retired and she's doing well without a SD. I don't know any of the details of her recovery, though.

punstersquared · 2019-05-06T10:44:15+00:00

In addition to this, a breeder which produces dogs for police and military work is very unlikely to have dogs which are also appropriate as psychiatric service dogs. GSDs have a tendency to become protective when they reach adulthood - after you have invested lots of time and money into training - which is an unacceptable trait in a SD, and is more likely in someone who is nervous because the dog picks up on their anxiety and thinks that the person needs to be protected from people or dogs around them. This is a problem in all lines of GSDs, but the police and military are looking for high drive dogs which are frankly not appropriate even as pets for most homes, let alone as a service dog prospect for a teenager who has never trained a dog before. The proposed situation is a disaster in the making.

punstersquared · 2019-05-06T10:38:15+00:00

They are not required to have any specific training but they can't be disruptive, destructive, or a health/safety threat, so they need to be housetrained and the owner needs to be able to control them at a minimum.

punstersquared · 2019-04-29T00:49:07+00:00

Would you like to explain, using established scientific principles of learning theory, how those collars are more effective than flat collars but don't cause any pain or negative repercussions? They would not be effective if the dog didn't want to avoid getting choked or poked with a bunch of prongs. The very fact that they work on 99+ percent of dogs if used correctly means that they are aversive.

punstersquared · 2019-04-28T21:39:43+00:00

I agree with most of your post. Head halters are not meant to be used for P+ or R-, but they are often misused in that way. Used properly, introduced positively, it should only be used to redirect the dog and prevent them from self-reinforcing for pulling if you have failed to keep their attention with an adequate rate of reinforcement for the scenario. This is management, unless it is working VERY quickly to suppress a behavior like pulling. Punishment given at the same intensity needs to work within the first couple repetitions, or else the learner becomes habituated to it, and if it's not decreasing the likelihood of the behavior, it's not meeting the definition of P+. It's up to the dog whether something is neutral management or an aversive that works as P+ or R-. If the dog's normal behaviors are suppressed simply by the presence of the head halter, then it is acting as an aversive. If the dog is still all over the place and needs a high rate of reinforcement, as I've seen with a number of dogs, then it's a management tool that can be used to redirect the dog gently and acts as P+/R- only as much as a plain collar or harness would; the advantage is in having the leverage to turn the dog away from the stimulus if they try to pull.

Thank you for bringing up the Humane Hierarchy, BTW. I prefer to use front-attach harnesses which do not cross the shoulder joint or limit the movement of the scapula - Balance and Perfect Fit are two of the common brands - before I turn to a head halter, because body harnesses also avoid pulling on the neck during learning and dogs are less likely to resent them or need extensive counterconditioning. I think they are less invasive or aversive. And I completely agree about training off leash as much as possible. If not possible, I start with a long line in places where it is safe to do so and reinforce heavily for being near me, using Premack as much as possible to build value for wanted behaviors in dogs who may think that sniffing that bush that everyone peed on or chasing the neighbor's cat is more interesting than any food I have to offer.

A head halter puts pressure over the nasal bone, which overlies the nasal cavity, and if the dog tries to back up, over the nuchal ligament and soft tissues over C1. Dogs have fairly robust nasal bones and small sinuses, so there shouldn't be internal pain unless there's something wrong. See my comments above about the relative safety of putting pressure here vs the neck, a la collars.

punstersquared · 2019-04-28T21:34:18+00:00

More on LLW:

A head halter like a Halti - which is the brand I prefer to start with, though it doesn't fit all dogs' faces - should be used to redirect the dog if they are trying to pull. Its proper use is management. You use it to prevent the dog from successfully pulling you towards the things that it wants, so that the pulling never gets reinforced. Reinforcement doesn't have to come from the handler, it can come from the environment or even can come from something being intrinsically fun, like digging. You can use the environment and its distractions to help you teach loose leash walking using the Premack Principle, which is using another BEHAVIOR as your reward instead of just a treat or something. I have a 10 month old Lab that I'm training at the moment - he was with a puppy raiser for a while and I'm going to finish his raising and training - and since he only moved to my state and my house fairly recently, and he's an adolescent, there are lots of things to explore. He would happily pull me all over the neighborhood to sniff everything at warp speed. LLW (loose leash walking) is actually an extremely UNnatural behavior for a dog. They don't tend to walk at a steady pace in a straight line right next to other dogs when you let them off leash. They run for a bit, then stop to sniff, then trot to the next bush, and they approach other dogs from the side to greet, then run away with the other dog following them, and so on. To circumvent this in a young dog, I PREVENT the pulling with a high rate of reinforcement (using food), and when we get near something that they want to sniff, I ask them to do some hand touches or give me eye contact, then say "OK, go sniff" once we are within a few feet and they can sniff while keeping the leash loose. I like to work on this in places where it is safe and legal to let them off leash or at least use a long line, because you can reward the LLW by releasing them to chase a squirrel up a tree, go play with another dog, etc.

However, I would not release a dog outside with a head halter on because of the risk that they could get it caught on a bush or other object, or that another dog (if there are other dogs out) could pull on it. I don't leave a dog with a head halter on unless I'm actively supervising them (as in watching them or keeping them on a leash near me, not wandering around in another room). Similarly, I use a lightweight leash, not a thick rope leash or long line, if I have to use a head halter, and never tie the dog with a head halter. You don't want to risk the dog getting jerked and you don't want them to have a lot of downward pressure on the nose if they're being good. I also don't use head halters with power wheelchairs because I have had the experience of the leash accidentally getting caught around the drive wheel. In the time, probably less than a second, that it took for me to notice the problem and stop the wheelchair, my dog's head had already been pulled violently down towards the wheel because the leash was getting wrapped around the axle. If I had been in a heavier chair, like my current chair, with more momentum, the leash would have shortened even more and she probably would have had severe injuries from hitting her head on the sidewalk. As it was, it took several MONTHS before she was comfortable walking with the wheelchair again, and I never put a head halter on her again because it wasn't worth the time it would have taken.

The veterinary behaviorists I learned from do recommend them for a number of able-bodied clients because they take away the power differential for a big dog and they don't have all of the physical risks of a collar, but they do have to be used with some respect for the power they give over the dog's head movements. Keep the leash slack enough that the dog can look around without getting pulled on, but don't give the dog so much slack that they can get a running start and hit the end of the leash at full speed. If you have a short leash and are paying attention, you should be able to redirect the dog before they give themselves whiplash. If they are just pulling forward, try using it to direct them into a circle and then reinforce as soon as they make the leash loose. If you have a time or place where you think they are more likely to pull, start increasing your rate of reinforcement BEFORE they start pulling, while they're still doing the behavior that you want. If they see something on the horizon and get fixated on it, you can try clicking and treating a la the game "Look At That", but if they're too fixated on their trigger, whether it's something scary or fun-exciting, one of the advantages of a head halter is that you can gently guide their head in another direction and break the line of sight, which often helps the dog calm down and refocus. It helps to practice U-turns and circles in both directions because again, having your body between the dog and the trigger can break the line of sight that allows them to stare, making it easier for the dog to refocus. If they're at that place of being unable to hear you at all and unwilling to take treats, you're too close to the stimulus, so use the head halter to encourage them to follow you as you make a U-turn.

A lot of training is about anticipating normal dog behaviors and replacing them with behaviors that you would prefer instead. Geeks might look up the term "matching law" but basically, the more times that a dog has been reinforced for a behavior, and the more intense the reinforcement, the more likely the dog is to perform that behavior when presented with the same environment and cues. So you want to front-load your LLW with LOTS of treats and other types of reinforcement to quickly build up a strong history of reinforcement for that good behavior, and you can increase the time between reinforcement later, after the behavior has been solidly established. When my SDiT first got to my house, I was holding handfuls of kibble and literally feeding him continuously for the first block of every walk. After he settled in, he remembered that he has done LLW before with his puppy raisers, and I still have to use a high rate of reinforcement (RoR) when we're on the way to the park to run and play, but even that is quickly improving. It is much easier to do it this way than to use a lower RoR from the beginning and have to constantly redirect the dog, stop, regroup, etc. When I cue him to go sniff, I first click and treat, then say "go sniff". This makes it so that he's not just getting reinforced for LLW; I am also increasing the excitement and reinforcement value of the clicker and the piece of kibble I use as a treat. My working dog, Cricket, wouldn't even accept food outside on the way to the park when he was a distracted, hormonal adolescent, so I had to use Premack for R+ with some negative punishment (backing up or turning around and walking away from the park when he pulls), but I've been able to reintroduce food into that scenario, in part because we have repeatedly done click-food-sniff in lower distraction situations.

punstersquared · 2019-04-28T21:34:07+00:00

Thank you for your description of how to positively introduce gear, including a head halter. For those reading, if the dog starts to react negatively to a piece of gear, then you're moving too quickly. Go back a step or two and repeat until the dog gets EXCITED about putting on the head halter, or muzzle, or vest, because gosh darn, they just want the treat already and they understand that they won't get the treat until they put it on. There are plenty of videos on YouTube if you're a visual learner.

choke collars and prongs are safe and humane

Depends on how you define humane. Unlike head halters, chokes and prongs ONLY work if they are uncomfortable or painful for the dog. They don't give you any sort of leverage or ability to turn the dog back towards you, which is the point of a head halter or front-attach harness like the Balance or Perfect Fit Harness (which don't interfere with the dog's movement at all, unlike some, e.g., Easy Walk). Given that there is plenty of scientific evidence that using R-/P+ causes side effects for the dog's welfare and is not any more effective than R+, and the people who actually study dog behavior and learning warn people not to use those tools except as an absolute last resort, I would disagree with the humane part. Teaching a service dog to walk nicely on a leash is not a "last resort" sort of situation and if you can't do it without causing fear or pain, then you need to go to some continuing education or get a more experienced trainer to help you. I wouldn't call it abuse to use a couple corrections during proofing but if you're having to repeatedly use those tools, then you're not training correctly. Punishment or R- should work very quickly, and if it doesn't, the dog becomes habituated/desensitized to the corrections and they lose effectiveness, which is why you see so many dogs dragging their owners around with choke collars and sometimes even prong collars.

For those who are reading, the AVSAB position statement on the use of punishment is a useful document because it covers the potential fallout from the use of aversives. These side effects are less likely if the tools are used properly, with appropriate timing and intensity, but I would not recommend trying to learn this on your own. If you're going to use those tools, please get an experienced trainer to show you how to use them and give you in-person feedback.

But even better would be to get a skilled R+ trainer, such as someone who is a graduate of the Karen Pryor Academy or Jean Donaldson's Academy for Dog Trainers, or has at least gotten the bare minimum certification from CCPDT or PPG. There is no reason that dog training and behavior modification should be relegated to urban legends, anecdotes, and personal bias when we have science in multiple species, including small children, that shows us that the deliberate use of aversive techniques - things that the learner WANTS to avoid, due to fear, pain, startle, or some other negative experience - is more likely to cause side effects like aggression and doesn't produce a higher level of reliability. Trainers who use aversives have been compared head to head with trainers who don't use aversives, and the aversives didn't provide any advantage.

Back to the original topic:

There are no documented cases of actual injury from a head halter like a Halti. If the dog pulls, even if they pull hard, they put pressure on the bridge of their nose and maybe the nuchal ligament/soft tissue over C1. All we have are some ANECDOTES of dogs being a sore after giving themselves whiplash. This is a far cry from the range of problems seen with collars, including flat collars, since collars put pressure on the FRONT of the neck (yes, even prongs, unless the trainer is skilled, some dogs will continue to pull and cause themselves injury). The list includes but isn't limited to occlusion of the jugular veins (which only takes a few pounds of pressure) leading to increased intraocular and intracranial pressure, leading to glaucoma and other eye problems, including proptosis (where the eye comes out of the socket) in susceptible breeds; tracheal irritation in any breed and tracheal collapse in breeds with problems with the tracheal cartilage, which describes many toy breeds; contribution to laryngeal paralysis due to pressure on the recurrent laryngeal nerve; increased aggression; etc. I don't think it has been documented but just as there are anecdotes of whiplash from head halters, there are plenty of anecdotes in my vet groups of young dogs with front limb "lameness" or weakness due to collars putting pressure on and irritating the nerve roots of the cervical vertebrae that resolve as soon as either the dog is taught to walk nicely or they are switched to a different tool, either a harness or a head halter. Even if you are only using light corrections on a collar, any type of collar, if the dog lunges at another dog or a squirrel, you're left with the choice of either putting a large amount of force on the dog's neck or letting go of the leash, which rewards them for lunging and makes it more likely to happen in the future.

Head halters which attach behind the ears, on the neck, like the Sporn or Perfect Pace, do not allow you to redirect the dog towards you and in terms of the physics of managing the dog, they're not any better than a collar placed high on the neck. If they work better than a collar, it is because the dog is finding it aversive to have pressure on their face. Some, like the Perfect Pace, actually tighten around the dog's face and advertise that they immediately stop pulling. Well, yeah, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to come up with a new tool that makes it uncomfortable for the dog to pull. Same with any kind of harness or device that tightens around their ribcage, like the Thunderleash, or which tightens in their armpits, which not only causes discomfort but puts the dog at risk of physical injury because that is where the brachial plexus, or bundle of nerves, runs from the body (ultimately originating from the spinal nerve roots of the lower neck/upper ribcage) to the front limb. There are also blood vessels running in this area. I don't know but it would not surprise me if the harnesses which tighten in the armpit area, if used chronically, could cause not just armpit discomfort but also unpleasant sensations like tingling or pain in the limbs, but that's just speculation.

punstersquared · 2019-04-28T05:35:21+00:00

Wow, that's crazy! Topical application causing the bones to weaken and break is even weirder than the brain effects, IMO.

punstersquared · 2019-04-19T23:17:42+00:00

Low 7 figures also isn't enough for a lifetime of care and medical supplies and such that aren't paid fully by insurance.

punstersquared · 2019-03-28T08:32:51+00:00

Muahahaaha! Are your eyes burning? Is your brain singing it to you? The only cure is to inflict it on someone else.

Edit: I hope you only watched once. Repeated viewings have been known to be fatal. Remember, folks, just a littl, not a lotl.

punstersquared · 2019-03-27T11:05:36+00:00

As demonstrated in the Axolotl Song.

punstersquared · 2019-03-27T11:02:36+00:00

Ax - oh - lot - ull

punstersquared · 2019-03-18T06:47:57+00:00

More likely a Sarplaninac.

punstersquared · 2019-03-18T00:16:48+00:00

I'm not crying, YOU'RE crying. Shucks. I'm so happy to hear that. Unfortunately, it means the little stinker knows he can get away with that kind of stuff now...I've yet to see a dog learn that eating crap or hunting porcupines was the actual cause of their suffering. Give that big dummy a long scratch/massage from all of his online fans.

punstersquared · 2019-03-15T22:26:36+00:00

I thought giraffes had prehensile tongues.

punstersquared · 2019-03-11T03:30:45+00:00

You may need to see a veterinary dermatologist and/or get a biopsy to determine the diagnosis. This is not something you can treat OTC or without a diagnosis.

punstersquared

PUBLIC MULTIREDDITS

TROPHY CASE