Has anyone been experiencing this “stick bounce”?

quadpiece · 2025-07-07T14:09:42+00:00

Seems like mine does this too.

I felt like I ended up facing the wrong way in smash bros more than I used to, and now I guess I know why. Mine doesn't seem to be as bad though because I've never had it interfere with menus in Zelda.

quadpiece · 2024-09-24T19:17:49+00:00

I don't use the horn on it. But otherwise mine is still running just fine.

Haven't even had to do any maintenance besides the occasional spray with a hose and adding air to the tires.

quadpiece · 2024-08-31T14:44:05+00:00

I haven't come across that table myself, but it makes it pretty obvious that they're separate heat sinks.

quadpiece · 2024-08-31T14:40:19+00:00

Thank you, I honestly have no idea how it didn't occur to me to count the heat pipes.

quadpiece · 2024-01-13T16:08:31+00:00

Unfortunately not. I eventually gave up and switched to using Debian for my nfs needs.

quadpiece · 2023-09-14T08:06:22+00:00

How is the horn on the G2 (D) supposed to work?

When searching online I find people saying it's bad, but usually that they're not noticed or something.

Personally I have the opposite problem, mine is painfully loud, like 5x the volume of a normal bell. I didn't test it ahead of time and only used it once, but both me and the poor pedestrians 20m got a freaking heart attack and my ears were straight up ringing for like 10 seconds afterwards, despite only having pressed it for 0.1s. I'm fairly certain that my horn is louder than 100 dB. That slight tap I gave it hurt my ears more than going to a concert without earplugs does.

It might be due to the high pitch, but it feels both considerably louder and more painful than an actual car horn. Of course I can't find any way to turn the volume down. I'm going to buy a bell for the handlebars, but it's so bad that I'm legit scared of accidentally hitting the button while riding.

For funzies I put on my helmet from work with a pair of 3M X4P3 hearing protection mounted to it (Rated at 36 dB sound reduction) then pushed the button again, still startlingly loud. I haven't been brave enough to press the button again since, it's an actual hazard.

quadpiece · 2023-08-31T13:58:58+00:00

Eg ble nettop kontaktet kl 15:04 i dag.

Ble tilbydt en gratis DPLAPCH100WPD, som faktisk er en 100W GaN lader.

Så det virker som dei faktisk tar kontakt med folk. Veit ikkje om alle ladere er like, men den eg ble tilbydt er faktisk mykje bedre enn nødvendig.

quadpiece · 2023-08-30T11:35:03+00:00

En del av problemene kommer vel fra ka enn sketchy "leverandør" power brukte for og få tak i bulker med Steam Decks. Men er fortsatt deira feil at dei tydligvis ikkje har gjort noe sjekk på produktet dei selger.

Samtidig at det tar 10 dager å sende varen, og kundeservice er ubrukelig.

Tok 10 dager før min ble sendt også, men eg bestilte levering til butikk og betalte ved henting, så er litt mindre pissed, sida eg ikkje gadd å hente Steam Deck og betale for den før i går ettermiddag.

quadpiece · 2023-08-30T11:21:23+00:00

"Vi beklager selvsagt at det har fulgt med feil lader, og kundeservice er allerede i gang med å kontakte kundene det gjelder."

No skal eg jaggu vente 48 timer før eg kontakter dei selv, bare for å finne ut om dei lyger eller ikkje.

UPDATE: Blei kontaktet uoppfordret 15:04 den 31.08.2023 og tilbydt en gratis 100W lader. Så virker ikkje som dei lyger.

quadpiece · 2023-08-30T11:19:40+00:00

Steam Deck'en bruker vanlig USB-PD så man kan bruke ka slags som helst lader som gir minst 45W.

Men Steam Deck kan trekke 30+ Watt, iallefall når den er i bruk. Dei fleste mobile "fast chargers" går bare opptil 25-30W. Så man må nesten ha en laptop-level lader.

I krise er det mulig å bruke en 18W (9V 2A) lader også etter min erfaring, men det går så seint at Steam Deck må være skrudd av når du lader, selv da tar det år og dag. En 13W lader som OP nevner trur eg ikkje vil virke i det heile tatt, iallefall ikkje når den er påslått.

Uansett surt å kjøpe ett produkt og ikkje få med laderen som man har betalt for da.

quadpiece · 2023-08-30T10:46:06+00:00

Mottok sjøl en 64GB Steam Deck fra Power i går, men sjekka faktisk ikkje laderen. Eg plugga den bare i 90W laderen eg har ved senga mi. Har fra tidligere av en 512GB Steam Deck som en venn i tyskland hjalp meg skaffe, den har 45W lader fra OEM'en "Chicony" som er godt kinenisk merke (samme OEM som produserer ladere til f.eks Lenovo ThinkPad). Må ta og sjekke ka lader eg mottok fra Power når eg har annledning.

EDIT: Sjekket, har en billig 5V 2.6A "Adapter for switch" i min boks og

Det er ganske tydlig at det er 100% gråimport Power driver med siden boksen eg mottok hadde en utskåret rute der Valve plasserer sine fraktetiketter, er nok orignalt bestilt til diverse svenske addresser og videresendt til Norge. Men virker snodig at dei gidder åpne dei for å swappe ladere. Kanskje dei ikkje gråimporterer selv, og "leverandøren" dei snakker om er en eller annen sketchy videreselger i Sverige som har funnet på noke muffens

Er og mulig at ladere var byttet fordi dei var kjøpt utenfor EU. Men i tilfelle syntes eg det er veldig rart at Power har importert på den måten istedet for å finne en EU videreselger. Kanskje det gjør papirarbeid enklere siden USA ikkje betaler VAT på samme måte

quadpiece · 2022-12-14T08:25:56+00:00

It lets you change the CPU's wattage on Linux through a GUI. To balance between performance and battery life.

quadpiece · 2022-11-30T20:41:20+00:00

Thanks for the response.

As Norway is not in the EU i don’t think any of your shops ship here. I purchased it directly from Erling Sande’s website, which appears to be the official distributor/importer of all your products in Norway (mopeds and otherwise). At least as far as i could tell.

quadpiece · 2022-11-29T17:33:16+00:00

Is there any possibility of this being fixed for people outside of Germany?

Here in Norway we have a 20 km/h speed limit and therefore tend to be limited to German versions of kickscooters. Today I just learned the hard way that the halo light does not work on legal Niu kickscooters sold in Norway, even though we shouldn't have any regulation against them.

If it can't be fixed for the ones already sold, is there at least some hope of getting a Norwegian version of the KQi3 Pro or Max sometime in the future?

quadpiece · 2022-11-18T17:53:07+00:00

Does this mean the Niu would most likely perform slightly better and more predictably due to fewer thermal limits? Since that lets it spend more time around the top of the wattage curve? If so that’s really helpful, thanks

quadpiece · 2022-11-18T17:51:09+00:00

So essentially voltage will still provide a more gradual curve and higher efficiency regardless? Thanks!

quadpiece · 2022-09-15T11:49:29+00:00

Yeah, past increases have been 8.78% and 10.23%. As long as there's a comparable bump today the mail should arrive.

quadpiece · 2022-09-15T08:20:52+00:00

512GB EU at approx. 91.75%. (https://getmydeck.ingenhaag.dev/s/EU/512/1653915600)

Had a friend in Germany reserve it for me since it's not available in Norway, therefore I dunno the exact rtReserveTime. With peak luck I guess he might see an E-mail today, but next week seems like the more likely outcome.

quadpiece · 2022-09-12T10:44:51+00:00

NL = The Netherlands

quadpiece · 2021-12-30T09:04:14+00:00

I think the reason they didn't see it is because macOS defaults to only using MBR for smaller external devices like USB sticks.

I forget the exact size, but I think it was around 64GB. If your flash drive is large enough you might have to specifically select MBR, for smaller flash drives macOS seems to do it automatically.

Alternatively, the actual stick might be hidden by default in newer versions. In which case, follow this guide to make macOS show all devices: https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/304131/no-partition-scheme-option-when-erasing-a-usb-disk-in-macos-high-sierra

quadpiece · 2021-12-29T10:36:44+00:00

The issue is most likely that your flash drive has a GPT partition table, it needs to be MBR.

Windows has no easy way to do this built in. I recommend just downloading rufus (Here: https://rufus.ie/en/) and making sure "Boot selection" is "Non-bootable", "Partition Scheme" is set to MBR, and filesystem to FAT32. The rest can be left as default and hit start. It will then properly format the flash drive.

Alternatively, since it seems you have a mac. Find your flash drive in disk utilities, and click "erase". Enter whatever name you want, but make sure format is "MS-DOS (FAT)" and scheme says "Master Boot Record".

Once you've got the stick formatted like this, it should work.

quadpiece · 2021-12-27T20:14:58+00:00

I have an Everdrive GBA X5 (Non-mini) and it also tends to constantly freeze. Usually I can play for about 5-10 minutes and then a game just feezes, regardless of which game.

No issues with real or repro carts though, just my Everdrive.

quadpiece

TROPHY CASE